We are building a plywood (stitch & glue) kayak, you can Digital Plans Patterns and build it from scratch using these instructions. In this case we started from The Petrel Play SG kit from Chesapeake Light Craft which comes with a comprehensive instruction manual. You can think of this Instructable as a supplement to that manual.

For the visual learner, this comprehensive series of over 30 videos will bring you step-by-step through every aspect of the project, from unboxing the kit to launching the completed kayak. While this instruction is based on the Petrel Play SG kayak kit from Chesapeake Light Craft, the skills, techniques and procedures are adaptable to any Stitch and Glue Kayak design.

The videos are supplemented with still photography of the process. Note that these photos were taken during a different built so some aspects may be slightly different, but this should give you a sense of some alternatives available.

These instructions include video showing the plywood kayak building process in detail as well as an outline of what is being done in each video. This project was completed in about 21 days in the shop. Most of those days involved about 5 hour of work for a total of about 100 hours to complete the build.

You can take each step as a goal to accomplish in one session in the shop, however some of the steps are actually dividing one day of actual work into several steps so you may be able to do a couple of steps a day if you have the time to be in the shop.

Source for the Kit or Plans

1. Petrel Play SG Kit from Chesapeake Light Craft
2. Full Sized Paper Plans from Guillemot Kayaks
3. Digital Plans from Guillemot Kayaks
4. Kayak designs that this Instructable will help with:
5. CLC: Petrel SG, Petrel SGL, Stitch and Glue Night Heron, Stitch and Glue Guillemot, Shearwater, Wood Duck, Chesapeake,
6. Pygmy Kayaks: Coho, Osprey, Murrelet, Pinguino, Freya, Ronan, Selkie, Borealis, Arctic Tern, etc.
7. Newfound Woodworks: 17′ 2″ Navigator, 15′ 11″ Explorer

Useful Tools:

1. Utility Knife
2. Scissors
3. Drill and bits
4. Hand Plane
5. Rasp (e.g., Shinto wood rasp or four-in-hand rasp)
6. Sanding Block
7. Power Sander (with dust collection)
8. Sandpaper (various grits: 60, 80, 120, 220, 320)
9. Clamps (C-clamps and A-style Spring Clamps)
10. Epoxy Pumps
11. Mixing Sticks
12. Squeegees
13. Foam Roller and Tray
14. Paint Brushes
15. Needle File
16. Masking Tape
17. Epoxy Piping Bag
18. Foam V-blocks
19. Paddle
20. Putty Knife
21. Tape Dispenser
22. Epoxy Mixing Containers
23. Foam Roller
24. Tape Dispenser
25. Measuring Tape
26. Step Drill
27. Router with Round-Over Bit
28. Scotch-Brite Pads
29. Drum Sander (two sizes)
30. Coaming Tool
31. Heat Gun
32. Countersink Drill
33. Japanese Pull Saw or Jigsaw

Materials (most of this comes in the kit):

1. 4mm Okoume Plywood
2. Epoxy Resin and Hardener
3. Wood Flour
4. Colloidal Silica/Fumed Silica/CaboSil or Cellulose Powder
5. Fiberglass Cloth (4 oz and 9 oz varieties)
6. Fiberglass Seam Tape (~3-inch wide)
7. Alcohol Based Wood Stain
8. Denatured Alcohol
9. Clean Rags
10. Copper Wire
11. Nylon Cord
12. Shock Cord
13. Webbing
14. Finishing Hardware (screws, washers, Nylock nuts)
15. Hatch Components
16. Skeg Control System
17. Fiberglassing Supplies
18. Varnish
19. Varnish Thinner
20. Seat
21. Backrest
22. Foot Pegs/Braces

Suggested Safety Equipment (PPE):

1. Respirator with Organic Vapor Cartridges
2. Dust Mask or Respirator with Particulate Filters
3. Gloves (protective)
4. Eye Protection
5. Protective Clothing (long sleeves and pants)
6. Ventilation System for the Work Area

About the Petrel Play SG

The Petrel Play SG represents years of my experiencing designing kayaks, trying to find the optimal compromise between an easy kayak for a novice kayaker to paddle and a kayak that a skilled kayaker can have a lot of fun paddling. It is a blend of traditional kayak craftsmanship and modern design advancements.

The design’s roots trace back to the early 2000s, where the initial prototype of the Petrel was conceived. Nick refined the design over years of practical use and feedback, evolving it from his previous creations within the renowned Night Heron family of kayaks. This continuous evolution focused on achieving a blend of stability, maneuverability, and ease of handling, aimed at enriching the paddling experience in various water conditions.

The primary goal behind designing the Petrel Play SG was to craft a vessel that introduces newcomers to the world of kayak building without overwhelming them with complexity. By employing the stitch and glue construction method, the Petrel Play SG kit simplifies the building process while still retaining the professional finish and performance expected of a high-quality craft.

This kayak design caters to a wide audience—ideal for beginner paddlers looking to explore calm bays and lakes, as well as more experienced enthusiasts eager to navigate challenging wave environments. With its thoughtful balance between length and width, the Petrel Play SG offers superior stability and agility, making it a suitable choice for recreational exploration and advanced paddling adventures alike.

If you are starting from the Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) Kit you will receive several boxes containing all the materials you will need. As you unload the boxes you should do an inventory to assure all the pieces are included and start to familiarize yourself with the bits and pieces.

If you are not building from a kit, please look at my "Making a Plywood Kayak" Instructable. You will need accurate plans so you can cut out the plywood panels precisely.

The Building Process:

The kayak building procedure will follow this basic outline:

1.  Introduction to the Kayak Kit
2. Overview of provided materials and tools.
3. Safety considerations and workspace setup.
4.  Unboxing and Organizing
5. Inventory check of epoxy box and main kit contents.
6. Workspace organization and preparation.
7.  Initial Steps and Preparations
8. Detailed inventory and safety checks.
9. Staining and epoxy coating preparation.
10.  Hull Assembly
11. Puzzle joint assembly and alignment.
12. Stitching process with copper wire.
13. Applying initial fillet and fiberglass coatings.
14.  Deck Assembly
15. Puzzle joint setup for deck pieces.
16. Coaming installation for cockpit.
17.  Joining Hull and Deck
18. Aligning and securing the hull to the deck.
19. Interior seam taping and final secure fittings.
20.  Finishing the Kayak
21. Final sanding and varnishing.
22. Hardware installation: foot pegs, seats, backrests.
23.  Final Checks and Launch Preparation
24. Inspection of all components and fittings.
25. Preparing for the first launch and testing in the water.
26.  Maintenance and Care Tips
27. Long-term maintenance strategies.
28. Addressing common issues and repairs.

Materials Inventory

Box 1 (Epoxy Box)

1. Complete 200 page Build Instruction Manual with photos and process descriptions
2. Epoxy resin and hardener (low viscosity)
3. Calibrated pumps for epoxy preparation
4. Wood flour (brown powder for thickening epoxy)
5. Colloidal silica/cell fill (white powder for thickening epoxy)

Main Kit Box

1. Seat Components:
2. Standard seat
3. Seat back rest
4. Foot braces
5. Hardware and Materials:
6. 3-inch wide fiberglass tape
7. Copper wire for stitching
8. Syringes
9. Shock cord
10. 1-inch webbing
11. Nylon cord
12. Builder's manual
13. Hatch Components:
14. Front and rear hatch covers
15. Hatch rims ("tupperware-style" fittings)
16. Forward and aft hatch rings
17. Fiberglass:
18. 20 yards of 4oz, 50-inch wide fiberglass cloth (rolled, not folded)

Organization Instructions

1. Clear a large workspace and keep the cardboard packaging (useful for floor protection).
2. Separate parts into two main categories:
3. Hull pieces
4. Deck pieces
5. Identify Hull Components:
6. Bottom panels (look for puzzle joints at ends)
7. Steeler planks (right and left sides)
8. Forward and aft side panels
9. Note: Keep broken pieces taped together if found
10. Identify Deck Components:
11. Forward deck panels (triangular pieces)
12. Deck sides (long, skinny pieces with puzzle joints)
13. Aft deck piece (has large oval hole)
14. Cockpit coaming ring
15. Coaming spacers (various curved pieces)
16. Sort Forms and Bulkheads:
17. Hull forms (identified by sticky-out points)
18. Deck forms (identified by notches)
19. Forward and aft bulkheads
20. Thigh/cheek plates
21. Organize Small Parts:
22. Hatch parts
23. Coaming spacers
24. Hardware components

Important Notes

1. Panel Identification:
2. Check for beveled edges on panels
3. Note the direction of bevels for assembly
4. Keep matching pairs together
5. Part Protection:
6. Handle pieces with beveled edges carefully
7. Be especially gentle with narrow sections
8. Keep broken pieces secured with tape
9. Manual Reference:
10. Use the builder's manual to cross-reference parts
11. Verify all components are present
12. Familiarize yourself with part names and locations
13. Storage:
14. Keep parts organized by category
15. Store flat to prevent warping
16. Maintain pieces in their original groups until needed

Pre-Build Considerations

1. Review the complete builder's manual before starting construction
2. Consider staining options before assembly (can enhance puzzle joints and visual interest)
3. Keep workspace clean and organized
4. Maintain proper ventilation for epoxy work
5. Have necessary tools ready before beginning assembly

Materials Needed

1. Okoume marine plywood panels from kit or that you cut from plans
2. Solar Lux alcohol-based stain (medium brown mahogany)
3. Epoxy resin and hardener (2:1 ratio)
4. Denatured alcohol
5. Clean rags
6. Cardboard work surface
7. Foam roller
8. Mixing cups
9. Mixing sticks

Safety Precautions

1. Work in a well-ventilated area
2. Follow all safety instructions on epoxy and stain products
3. Keep work area clean and organized

Staining Process

1. Preparation
2. Identify the correct side to stain (bevel side should be down)
3. Lay out panels on cardboard work surface
4. Ensure panels are clean and dry
5. Staining Application
6. Wet a clean rag with Solar Lux stain
7. Apply stain evenly across the panel surface
8. Allow to dry for approximately 5 minutes
9. Evening Out the Stain
10. Inspect for blotchy areas or uneven coloring
11. If needed, wet a clean rag with denatured alcohol
12. Gently wipe over the entire surface to even out dark spots and light areas
13. Allow to dry completely

Epoxy Coating Process

1. Epoxy Mixing
2. Use correct 2:1 ratio (two parts resin to one part hardener)
3. Prime pumps before first use
4. For each batch:
5. Pump resin and hardener deliberately, ensuring full strokes
6. Mix vigorously for one full minute
7. Scrape sides and corners of mixing cup
8. Continue mixing for additional time to ensure thorough combination
9. Epoxy Application
10. Use foam roller to apply mixed epoxy
11. Roll on evenly, ensuring complete coverage
12. Avoid applying too thickly - aim for complete coverage without excess
13. Keep panels separate while drying - do not stack

Important Notes

1. If epoxy fails to cure:
2. Strip off using acetone, lacquer thinner, or alcohol
3. Note that this will likely damage stain underneath
4. Clean thoroughly before reapplication
5. Mix small batches of epoxy to avoid exothermic reaction
6. Always verify pump function - listen for irregular sounds that might indicate incomplete pumps
7. Sand surfaces before any subsequent fiberglassing
8. Optional: Stain can be mixed directly into epoxy for colored epoxy

Quality Checks

1. Ensure stain is even before epoxy application
2. Verify epoxy is thoroughly mixed before application
3. Check for complete coverage after epoxy application
4. Allow proper curing time before handling panels

Next Steps

1. Allow panels to cure completely
2. Sand surfaces before proceeding with fiberglassing
3. Store panels separately until fully cured
4. Maintain organized workspace for subsequent building steps

Required Materials

1. CA (Cyanoacrylate/Super) glue
2. CA accelerant
3. Wax paper
4. Utility knife
5. Block plane or sanding block
6. Protective piece of wood (optional)
7. Work surface (cardboard or similar)

Initial Setup & Organization

1. Sort all parts into groups:
2. Set aside deck pieces
3. Organize hull pieces
4. Keep hull assembly guide/drawing nearby for reference

Part Identification

1. Identify bow and stern pieces using the guide drawing:
2. Steeler plank has a long tapered bit with an added piece
3. Aft side panel has a wider end
4. Hull bottom pieces: aft piece is shorter than bow piece
5. Determine right (starboard) vs. left (port) sides:
6. Look for beveled edges
7. Ensure bevels are on the same side of assembled panels
8. Beveled side should face up (this will be the inside of the boat)

Assembly Process

1. Bottom Panel Assembly

1. Align puzzle joints:
2. Ensure bow pieces point forward
3. Stern pieces point aft
4. Verify proper orientation using guide drawing
5. Join Puzzle Joints:
6. Place wax paper under joints to prevent sticking
7. Press pieces together until perfectly aligned
8. Check for smooth transition between pieces
9. Fix any misalignment before gluing
10. Apply CA Glue:
11. Place small dots of glue every ~1/2 inch along smooth areas
12. Avoid applying glue to uneven areas
13. Apply light spritz of accelerant
14. Wait a few seconds for cure
15. Continue process along entire seam
16. Check joint smoothness before moving to next section

2. Steeler Panel Assembly

1. Determine outside/inside faces:
2. Choose smoother veneer for outside
3. Match stained ends
4. Align puzzle joints
5. Remove Manufacturing Tabs:
6. Locate small tabs along edges
7. Use block plane to carefully remove tabs
8. Alternative: use utility knife or sanding block

3. Side Panel Assembly

1. Follow same puzzle joint process as bottom panels
2. Verify bevel orientation matches between pieces
3. Ensure long edges align properly

Tips & Important Notes

1. Glue Application:
2. Use minimal amounts of CA glue
3. Keep glue bottle tip small and clean
4. Store spare caps in acetone for cleaning
5. Apply accelerant sparingly
6. Quality Control:
7. Check for smooth transitions at all joints
8. Verify panel alignment before gluing
9. Fill any small gaps later with epoxy
10. Common Issues:
11. If joints pop during assembly, realign and reglue
12. If joint feels rough, try adjusting alignment
13. Different puzzle joints may require different assembly techniques
14. Safety & Cleanup:
15. Work in ventilated area
16. Keep accelerant spray controlled
17. Clean glue bottle tips regularly
18. Protect work surface with wax paper

Next Steps

After completing panel assembly:

1. Prepare for hull assembly
2. Get ready for stitching process
3. Prepare forms for shaping

Note: Light sanding will be needed later, but joints will be covered with fiberglass and epoxy for structural strength.

Required Materials

1. Copper wire
2. Wire cutters
3. Forms
4. Work bench
5. Collection cup for cut wires

1. Prepare the Stitching Wire

1. Take the provided copper wire circle from the kit
2. Cut the wire circle into thirds (approximately 120° sections)
3. For easier cutting:
4. Break down large sections into smaller, manageable pieces
5. Place wire on workbench and press down with arm for leverage
6. Hold wire ends while cutting to prevent pieces from flying
7. Collect all cut wire pieces in a cup for easy access

2. Initial Hull Assembly

Safety Note for Panel Movement

1. Handle panels carefully when moving them into position
2. Maintain proper support to prevent damage or warping

Bottom Assembly

1. Lay down the bottom panel
2. Begin stitching along the keel line
3. Insert copper wire pieces through pre-drilled holes
4. Space stitches evenly along the seam

Side Panel Assembly

1. Align side panels with each other
2. Begin stitching side panels together
3. Use copper wire pieces to connect panels
4. Ensure proper alignment throughout the process

3. Form Installation

Initial Form Placement

1. Position the initial forms according to kit specifications
2. Carefully align panels with form markings
3. Secure panels to forms using stitching wire where needed

Complete Form Installation

1. Install remaining forms along the hull length
2. Verify proper spacing and alignment
3. Check that hull shape matches design specifications

4. Bottom Panel Integration

1. Connect bottom panels to side assemblies
2. Use copper wire stitching to secure connections
3. Ensure even spacing and proper alignment
4. Verify hull shape matches design requirements

Important Notes

1. Take time to ensure proper alignment at each step
2. Double-check all connections before proceeding
3. Maintain consistent stitching patterns throughout
4. Follow hull shape specifications carefully

Note: These instructions assume you are working with a Chesapeake Light Craft kit for the Petrel Play SG Sea kayak. For detailed specifications and additional support, refer to the kit documentation or contact Chesapeake Light Craft directly.

Required Materials

1. Copper wire
2. Pliers
3. Utility knife (for removing tabs if needed)

Preparation

1. Ensure all panels are roughly positioned in their final configuration
2. Remove any remaining tabs on panel edges using a utility knife or block plane
3. Verify that stitch holes between panels align properly

Basic Stitching Technique

1. Align holes between two adjacent panels
2. Insert copper wire through aligned holes
3. Cross wires at approximately 90° angle on the inside of the hull
4. Pull wires firmly to create tension (don't rely on twisting to create tension)
5. While maintaining tension, twist wires together to lock in place
6. Ensure wires are crossed at 90° before twisting
7. The twist should be tight and compact, not long and parallel

Main Assembly Process

1. Begin with a few initial stitches to roughly position panels
2. Start at key points like stems or intersections
3. Don't fully tighten these first stitches
4. Work systematically along seams
5. Align panel edges for smooth transition
6. Focus on achieving a clean seam on the outside of the boat
7. Add stitches approximately every 6 inches
8. You can skip occasional holes if the seam is tight and well-aligned
9. Handle problem areas
10. If panels won't align, check for:
11. Interfering stitches from forms
12. Hidden tabs
13. Missing holes (drill new ones if needed)
14. For stubborn gaps, use closer stitch spacing (every 3 inches)
15. Bow and Stern Assembly
16. Use extra stitches near the ends where panels come together
17. Pre-bend wires to reach difficult angles
18. Focus on pulling panels together by hand before securing with wire
19. Small gaps are acceptable as they'll be filled with epoxy later

Troubleshooting Tips

1. If seams keep popping apart:
2. Add more stitches in the area
3. Check for and remove any constraining stitches to forms
4. Ensure proper wire twisting technique
5. For difficult-to-reach holes:
6. Pre-bend wire to match the required angle
7. Use longer wire pieces for better manipulation
8. For gaps in the seam:
9. Try repositioning nearby stitches
10. Add additional stitches if holes are available
11. Remember that small gaps will be filled with epoxy later

Quality Checks

1. Exterior seams should be smooth with minimal stepping between panels
2. Panels should maintain alignment along entire length
3. Wire twists should be tight and secure
4. Hull shape should be symmetrical and true to design

Important Notes

1. Don't obsess over perfect seams; small gaps will be filled with epoxy
2. Focus on outside seam appearance rather than inside appearance
3. Stitches are temporary and will be removed after gluing
4. Work at a relaxed pace to ensure proper alignment
5. All stitches don't need to be fully tight initially; gradual tightening helps maintain proper shape

This guide covers the process of spot welding stitched kayak panels using cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, following Nick Schade's method for the Petrel Play SG sea kayak.

Required Materials

1. Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue / Super glue
2. CA activator spray
3. Protective gloves (recommended)

Pre-Welding Inspection

1. Check all seam alignments by feel from the outside of the hull
2. Run your hands across each seam
3. Seams should feel smooth and continuous
4. No snagging or overhanging edges
5. If problematic areas are found:
6. Remove wires if necessary
7. Realign panels
8. Re-stitch as needed

Spot Welding Process

1. Start with one seam at a time
2. Apply CA glue:
3. Place small dots every 2 inches along seams
4. Use approximately 1/8 inch (3 millimeter) sized dots
5. Insert glue tip directly into the seam
6. Avoid excess glue running down panels
7. Don't fill entire seams:
8. Leave room for later epoxy application
9. Use minimal glue - just enough to hold panels

Special Areas

Stem and Stern

1. Apply glue carefully into seams where panels meet
2. Allow glue to drip down into tight spaces
3. Use activator spray to cure
4. Be careful not to oversaturate with glue

Chine Joints (Where Panels Merge)

1. Align panels for best fit
2. Accept small gaps (approximately 1/16 inch) where sheer lines taper
3. Apply glue as normal
4. Hold panels in alignment until cured

Non-Beveled Areas

1. Flex panels slightly to expose seam edge
2. Apply glue to top edge of seam
3. Realign panels
4. Hold firmly until cured
5. Use activator spray from accessible side

Tips and Techniques

1. Feel free to apply pressure to align panels:
2. Don't be afraid to use force when needed
3. Wood is more flexible than it appears
4. If seams aren't aligning:
5. Apply steady pressure
6. Hold position while applying glue
7. Use activator to cure quickly

Important Notes

1. This is temporary holding - not final structural bonding
2. Maintain boat on workbench after spot welding
3. Don't transport boat at this stage
4. Later steps will include:
5. Wire removal
6. Interior fillets
7. Fiberglass application

Quality Checks

1. Verify all seams are spot welded
2. Check for smooth transitions across all seams
3. Ensure no loose areas remain
4. Confirm stem and stern are securely bonded

Common Issues and Solutions

1. Glue on fingers: Use activator to cure immediately. Debonder is available if you mess up.
2. Wire interference: OK if some wires get glued, they'll be removed later
3. Uneven seams: Slight wiggles can be smoothed during later sanding/planing
4. Gaps: Apply pressure while gluing to minimize

Next Steps

After spot welding is complete:

1. Allow all glue to fully cure
2. Prepare for wire removal
3. Plan for interior filleting
4. Prepare for fiberglassing

Materials and Prerequisites

Required Materials

1. Epoxy resin and hardener (MAS brand recommended)
2. Wood flour (fine sawdust, MDF-based)
3. Mixing containers (yogurt containers or proper epoxy mixing cups)
4. Piping bag or zip-lock bag
5. Plastic spoon for shaping fillets
6. Squeegee
7. Denatured alcohol
8. Clean rags
9. 100-grit sandpaper
10. Vacuum cleaner
11. Tongue depressor (optional)

Environmental Requirements

1. Work area temperature above 65°F
2. Well-ventilated space

Safety Precautions

1. Wear protective gloves at all times when handling epoxy
2. Wear long sleeves and long pants
3. Ensure adequate ventilation
4. Be aware that epoxy creates an exothermic reaction (generates heat)
5. Keep hands clean to avoid getting epoxy on the outside of the boat

Pre-Fillet Preparation

1. Remove wire stitches:
2. Clip wires from the inside
3. Pull wires out through the holes
4. Cut flush if wires are stuck with glue
5. Leave only those at the top of the forms
6. Sand down spot-weld bumps ("nubbins"):
7. Use 120-grit sandpaper
8. Sand with the grain
9. Focus on areas under seats and visible areas
10. Clean thoroughly:
11. Vacuum out all debris from boat interior
12. Ensure working surface is clean and clear

Epoxy Mixing Process

Preparation

1. Warm up epoxy (optional but recommended):
2. Use heat lamp or terrarium heating pad placed near epoxy containers to reduce viscosity

Basic Epoxy Mix

1. Ensure pumps are primed
2. Use Proper ratio of resin to hardener: With MAS epoxy 1 pump to 1 pump produces the appropriate 2:1 ratio
3. Start with resin (blue pump)
4. Add hardener (red pump)
5. Mix thoroughly for at least 1 minute
6. Scrape sides and bottom while mixing

Creating Fillet Mixture

1. Start with small batch for practice (enough for a couple feet)
2. Add wood flour gradually:
3. Begin with equal volume of wood flour to epoxy
4. Mix slowly to avoid dust
5. Add more wood flour 1-2 scoops at a time
6. Final consistency should be like natural peanut butter:
7. Should hold its shape but still be workable
8. Should not be too shiny
9. Should stay upright on mixing stick

Applying Fillets

Preparation

1. Transfer mixture to application bag:
2. Place mixing bag in supporting container
3. Transfer mixture to piping bag or zip-lock
4. If using zip-lock, cut corner for ~1/4 inch opening
5. Twist top of bag to prevent backflow

Application Process

1. Pipe approximately 1/4 inch bead along seams:
2. Focus on panel joints
3. Apply more material to deeper seams
4. Apply less to flatter seams
5. Work quickly (15-minute working time)

Shaping the Fillets

1. Use plastic spoon or tongue depressor:
2. Place finger inside spoon for control
3. Press down into fillet
4. Make one long, smooth stroke along seam
5. Avoid multiple short strokes
6. For squeeze-out cleanup:
7. Use squeegee with slight upward angle
8. Work lengthwise along seams
9. Allow excess to accumulate on squeegee
10. Return excess to mixing bucket
11. For stem areas (bow and stern):
12. Apply generous amount of mixture
13. Press deep into narrow points
14. Create substantial fillet for structural strength
15. Smooth carefully

Finishing and Quality Control

Final Smoothing

1. Remove any "goobers" (hard chunks or excess material)
2. Use denatured alcohol on fingertip to smooth rough spots:
3. Apply light pressure
4. Work in one direction
5. Aim for approximately ½-inch wide fillets

Quality Checks

1. Ensure no light shows through gaps
2. Check for consistent fillet width
3. Verify smooth transitions between panels
4. Confirm adequate filling in stem areas
5. Look for and remove any remaining bumps

Preparation for Next Steps

1. If glassing same day, fillets should still be wet
2. If glassing different day:
3. Allow fillets to cure completely
4. Sand fillets to remove gloss and high spots
5. Ensure all surfaces are smooth for proper glass adhesion

Important Tips

1. Start with smaller batches until familiar with working time
2. Work from comfortable positions for best results
3. Keep hands clean, use back of hand if needed to hold boat
4. Monitor room temperature - warmer temperatures reduce working time
5. If epoxy mix fails to cure, remove completely before applying glass
6. Always pre-mix epoxy thoroughly before adding wood flour
7. Clean mixing containers for reuse

Prerequisites

Required Materials

1. Fiberglass cloth
2. Epoxy resin and hardener
3. Chip brushes
4. Squeegees
5. Paper cups (for grunge cupping)
6. Sharp scissors

Starting Conditions

1. Hull must be fully stitched and CA glued
2. All seams should have fillets applied
3. Workshop temperature above 65°F (18°C)
4. Clean, dust-free work area
5. Good ventilation

Step-by-Step Process

1. Cloth Layout

1. Prepare the cloth:
2. Cut pieces to fit across boat width
3. Allow 2-3 inches excess on each side
4. Start from cockpit area
5. Plan for 1-inch overlaps between pieces
6. Position the cloth:
7. Overlaps should face away from brushing direction
8. For bow/stern: cut triangles at 45° angle (bias cut)
9. Use dry chip brush to smooth into seams
10. Avoid snagging cloth on plywood edges

2. Epoxy Application

1. Mixing epoxy:
2. Make small batches (¾ inch in cup)
3. Mix only what you can use in 10-15 minutes
4. Keep batches small to prevent overheating
5. Application technique:
6. Start from middle, work outward to sides
7. Use brush to distribute epoxy
8. Work wet to dry areas
9. Keep moving at steady pace
10. Don't revisit wet areas
11. For bow/stern: brush on rather than pour

3. Problem Management

1. Dealing with bridges (lifted areas):
2. Don't fix immediately
3. Address after initial wetout
4. Usually indicates insufficient cloth in seam
5. Lift edge and ease cloth down
6. Managing wrinkles:
7. Side-to-side wrinkles: pull yarns lengthwise
8. Vertical wrinkles: pull toward end of cloth
9. Work wrinkles toward dry areas
10. Don't force cloth - persuade it

4. Grunge Cupping Process

1. Preparation:
2. Cut small slit in paper cup
3. Ready clean squeegees
4. Technique:
5. Hold squeegee at 45° angle
6. Apply moderate pressure
7. Draw excess epoxy through cup slit
8. Look for cloth texture (matte vs. shiny)
9. Work systematically across surface
10. Continue until excess removed

5. Final Steps

1. Edge inspection:
2. Check all top edges for dry spots
3. Trim excess hanging cloth
4. Ensure good adhesion along edges
5. Final fixes:
6. Address remaining bridges
7. Fix persistent wrinkles
8. Ensure complete wetout

Critical Tips

Best Practices

1. Work quickly but deliberately
2. Don't perfect each area before moving on
3. Less epoxy is better than too much
4. Keep epoxy batches small
5. Always work wet to dry
6. Avoid repeated squeegeeing
7. If technique isn't working, try different approach

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Overworking areas
2. Using too much epoxy
3. Letting epoxy overheat in cup
4. Fixing problems too early
5. Working too slowly
6. Excessive brushing

Safety Notes

1. Ensure proper ventilation
2. Wear appropriate protective equipment
3. Keep cleanup materials ready
4. Monitor epoxy temperature

Next Steps

After initial cure (typically 2-4 hours):

1. Inspect surface for problems
2. Consider applying fill coat for:
3. Evening out surface
4. Providing sanding layer
5. Preparing for varnish

Note: This process is one of several fiberglassing sessions required for complete kayak construction. Interior work is typically most challenging due to gravity working against you. Future sessions will include outside hull, inside deck, and outside deck.

Interior Hull Preparation

1. Apply fill coat to the interior fiberglass
2. Purpose: Prevent humidity migration through pinholes
3. Mix small batch of epoxy (½ to ¾ inch in cup)
4. Apply thin coat over entire interior surface
5. Goal: Fill weave partially while maintaining some texture for varnish adhesion
6. Trim Excess Fiberglass
7. Hold sharp utility knife flush against wood edge
8. Draw knife through fiberglass in one smooth motion (avoid sawing motion)
9. Trim flush to wood surface
10. For top edge bevels, trim from outside
11. Remove any bubbles or drips near edges by shaving flush to surface

Deck Panel Assembly

1. Prepare Puzzle Joint Assembly
2. Identify all deck panels (side panels, front deck, foredeck, back deck, cockpit recess)
3. Orient panels with inside facing out
4. Match beveled sides
5. Verify proper alignment of puzzle joints
6. Assemble Puzzle Joints
7. Ensure panels are as flat as possible
8. Apply CA glue (super glue) to one side
9. Apply accelerant to mating surface
10. Join pieces together quickly
11. Hold firmly until bond sets
12. Check alignment by sighting down seam for smooth curve
13. Quality Control Checks
14. Sight down seams for smooth, continuous curves
15. Check for gaps in joints
16. Verify proper alignment of panels
17. Look for any "knuckles" or irregularities in curves

Fixing Misaligned Joints

1. Disassembly (if needed)
2. Apply CA glue debonder solution to glue joints
3. Allow solution to penetrate
4. Carefully separate panels
5. Mark any breaks or damage for repair
6. Joint Cleanup
7. Use nail files or sandpaper to clean glue residue
8. Maintain flat edges (avoid rounding)
9. Clean until fresh wood is visible
10. Be careful not to oversand or create gaps
11. Reassembly
12. Test fit panels before gluing
13. Start assembly from opposite end if initial attempt was tight
14. Apply generous amount of glue
15. Use accelerant on mating surface
16. Join firmly and hold until set
17. Check final alignment

Tips for Success

1. Wear gloves when working with epoxy and glue
2. Don't hesitate to take decisive corrective action if alignment is wrong
3. Clean joints thoroughly rather than making minimal adjustments
4. Remember that fiberglass and epoxy will add structural integrity to repairs
5. Sight down seams frequently to check alignment
6. Be patient with puzzle joint alignment; they may require specific orientation

Final Notes

1. Small gaps in puzzle joints are acceptable if not excessive
2. Broken pieces can be reglued and will be strengthened by exterior fiberglass
3. The deck will require additional work for hatch recesses in subsequent steps
4. The interior will eventually benefit from varnish for UV protection

Note: This document covers only the initial deck assembly phase. Additional steps for hatch recess installation and final finishing will follow in subsequent procedures.

Required Materials

1. Deck panels (side panels, forward deck panels, middle panel, aft deck)
2. Forms (numbered 1-4)
3. Wire for stitching
4. Epoxy
5. Pliers
6. Heat gun (for cleanup if needed)
7. Scraper

Assembly Steps

1. Prepare the Bow Section

1. Locate the forward bow pieces
2. Thread wires through stitch holes on both sides
3. Hold panels at 90° to each other
4. Twist wires to join, leaving a small gap
5. Clean any plugged holes as needed

2. Install Mid-Deck Form (Form 3)

1. Locate double stitch holes on mid-deck panel
2. Create U-shaped wires
3. Insert wires from inside toward outside through double stitch holes
4. Position Form 3 between the double stitch holes
5. Wire up into corners
6. Pull tight and twist to secure, creating slight arch for foot room

3. Install Aft Deck Form (Form 4)

1. Clean any epoxy from stitch holes if necessary
2. Insert U-shaped wires through double stitch holes
3. Position form between holes
4. Wire into corners
5. Pull tight and twist to secure

4. Install Forward Forms (Forms 1 & 2)

1. Locate Form 2 (two notches)
2. Find corresponding double stitch holes
3. Wire through edge of panel into top of form
4. Position loosely until bottom panel is in place

5. Assemble Cockpit Recess

1. Remove tabs from cockpit recess pieces
2. Position bevel side up on inside of boat
3. Begin at back of recess:
4. Thread wires from underneath
5. Pull tight and twist
6. Work around sides progressively
7. Ensure even gaps (approximately 1/16 inch) on both sides
8. Check alignment of corner points
9. Tighten all connections
10. Create tight seams where panels meet

6. Test Fit and Clean Puzzle Joints

1. Clean all puzzle joints thoroughly
2. Remove any excess material or "fuzzies"
3. Test fit all joints before gluing
4. Ensure bevels are properly aligned
5. Make minor adjustments as needed for tight fits

Important Notes

1. Don't cinch wires too tight initially until all pieces are properly positioned
2. Verify alignment before final tightening
3. Create smooth transitions between panels
4. Check for proper beveling throughout assembly
5. Clean epoxy drips immediately if they occur
6. Ensure tight seams where panels meet

Next Steps

Proceed with installing the oval hatch recess (covered in next section of build)

Materials & Tools Needed

1. Deck panels
2. Cockpit recess
3. Front hatch recess
4. Back hatch recess
5. Wire for stitching
6. Power sander (optional but recommended)
7. Hand sanding block
8. Drill (for additional stitch holes if needed)

Assembly Order

1. Start with cockpit area
2. Progress to back hatch
3. Work on long seams
4. Finish with front hatch

Detailed Instructions

1. Cockpit Installation

1. Align cockpit recess with pre-drilled stitch holes in deck panels
2. Begin stitching the cockpit recess:
3. Can stitch from inside out or outside in
4. Ensure smooth edge alignment
5. Don't fully tighten yet - maintain flexibility for adjustments
6. Create additional stitch holes if needed for proper securing

2. Back Hatch Installation

1. Prepare the hatch recess:
2. Sand the edge bevel to make it nearly vertical or slightly angled inward
3. Top edge should be flush with deck
4. Test fit before proceeding
5. Insert hatch from below
6. Align the positioning tab with corresponding notch
7. Wire stitch the hatch in place
8. Add additional stitch holes if needed for secure fit

3. Long Seam Stitching

1. Maintain side panel attachment to forms for correct angle
2. Work progressively along seams
3. For narrow panel ends:
4. If too thin for holes, wrap wire around outside
5. Keep side panels wired to forms for proper angle

4. Front Hatch Installation

1. Prepare the hatch recess:
2. Create wide bevel along edge
3. Sand to achieve proper fit
4. Aim for slight tension when fitted
5. Installation process:
6. Consider temporarily removing form if needed
7. Insert from below
8. Align positioning tab with notch
9. Work carefully around thin deck panel edges
10. Stitching sequence:
11. Start at one point and work around
12. Draw panels in tight to front of hatch
13. Add stitch holes as needed
14. Work alternating sides for even tension

Critical Points

Beveling Tips

1. For hatch recesses, bevel edges to be nearly vertical or slightly inward
2. Use power sander with table tilted for consistent bevel
3. Test fit frequently
4. Keep top edge intact during beveling

Stitching Guidelines

1. Don't over-tighten initially
2. Add stitch holes where needed for security
3. Consider ease of access when choosing inside-out or outside-in stitching
4. Use double-wire turns for extra tension where needed

Panel Alignment

1. Maintain form attachment for proper hull shape
2. Allow for panel flexibility during assembly
3. Watch for proper alignment of tabs and notches
4. Be careful with thin edges to prevent breakage

Quality Checks

1. Ensure smooth transitions between panels
2. Check for proper seating of hatch recesses
3. Verify all tabs align with notches
4. Confirm flush fitting of hatch tops with deck surface

Next Steps

After assembly is complete:

1. Make final panel alignments
2. Spot weld components
3. Apply fill coating
4. Glass the deck

Note: This process prioritizes quality over speed. Take time to ensure proper fits and alignments, as these affect the kayak's final appearance and performance.

Materials

1. Assembled deck panels
2. Panels wired together (not yet glued)
3. CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
4. CA accelerant
5. Small hand drill or power drill with 1/16" bit
6. Copper wire
7. Pliers
8. Masking tape

Safety Equipment

1. Eye protection
2. Gloves (recommended)

Process Overview

1. Align and tighten deck panels
2. Spot weld with CA glue
3. Remove wires
4. Apply fillets (separate step)
5. Apply fiberglass (separate step)

1. Panel Alignment and Wire Tightening

Back Hatch Area

1. Check alignment of all panels
2. Ensure joints are tight with no visible gaps
3. Tighten wires as needed:
4. Feel underneath for proper alignment
5. Pull wires to tighten
6. Twist wires to lock tension
7. For stubborn gaps, add additional wire stitches as needed

Cockpit Area

1. Address the cockpit combing:
2. Ensure combing is level with deck
3. Check for tight seams with no gaps
4. Add additional stitches if needed
5. For difficult-to-tighten areas:
6. Create a small kink in the wire on the opposite side from twist
7. Adjust wire orientation if needed
8. Replace any broken or ineffective stitches

Front Hatch Area

1. Address multiple joining seams:
2. Ensure deck panel aligns with combing recess
3. Keep bottom of side panel even around perimeter
4. Add stitches where needed to maintain alignment
5. For tip areas:
6. Use masking tape where wire stitching is difficult
7. Ensure width is correct at forms
8. Allow for some flexibility for hull fitting later

2. Spot Welding Process

1. Apply CA glue:
2. Place small dots every couple inches on tight seams
3. Use more frequent dots on areas struggling to stay together
4. Apply accelerant:
5. Use light mist only
6. Avoid over-application
7. Hold panels in position until glue sets

3. Panel Fairing

1. Check for uniform angles:
2. Sight down seam lines
3. Look for smooth transitions
4. Ensure panels are flush against forms
5. Adjust as needed:
6. Flex panels to achieve uniform shape
7. Check that deck width matches hull width at forms
8. Allow for natural flex in wider areas

4. Final Steps

1. Remove all wires after spot welding is complete
2. Inspect all seams for proper alignment
3. Prepare for filleting process (separate step)
4. Prepare for glassing process (separate step)

Important Notes

1. Complete hatch and cockpit areas before working on side seams
2. Don't worry about small gaps (less than 1/16") as they will fill during the filleting process
3. Maintain proper deck width at forms for hull fitting
4. Allow for some flexibility in panels for hull fitting
5. Small breaks at panel tips can be addressed during filleting
6. Work systematically around the boat to maintain overall alignment

Quality Checks

1. No visible light gaps in seams
2. Smooth transitions between panels
3. Proper alignment at all forms
4. Even panel angles throughout
5. Secure spot welds holding all seams

Next Steps

1. Filleting all seams
2. Applying fiberglass
3. Final finishing

Required Materials

1. Epoxy resin and hardener
2. Wood flour
3. Disposable mixing cups
4. Stirring sticks
5. Piping/pastry bags
6. Filleting tools of various radii
7. Plastic squeegees
8. Denatured alcohol
9. Protective gloves
10. 60-80 grit sandpaper
11. Vacuum or shop vac

Initial Preparation

1. Wire Removal

1. Clip and remove all wires except:
2. Top wires connecting to the forms
3. Wires in the middle of form 3 and form 4

2. Surface Preparation

1. Sand down any convex seams where glue has squeezed out
2. Create a slight radius on outside corners for better glass adhesion
3. Use 60-80 grit sandpaper
4. Check for smoothness by running your hand over edges
5. Vacuum all dust and debris
6. Check for any remaining wire pieces caught in seams

Filleting Process

1. Epoxy Mixture Preparation

1. Mix small batches to avoid waste
2. Start with approximately 1/2 inch of epoxy in mixing cup
3. Use 1:1 ratio of resin to hardener (pump to pump)
4. Mix thoroughly for about one minute
5. Ensure sides and corners are scraped
6. Mix until completely blended
7. IMPORTANT: Only add wood flour after epoxy is fully mixed
8. Add wood flour gradually until mixture reaches peanut butter consistency
9. Start conservative with amount
10. Mix until gloss disappears
11. Should not freely pour off stirring stick

2. Piping Bag Preparation

1. Place bag in cup and fold edges down
2. Transfer epoxy mixture into piping bag
3. Cut tip to create approximately 1/4 inch opening

3. Applying Fillets

1. Insert tip into seam
2. Apply enough pressure to create white lines on either side of bead
3. Maintain consistent pressure for uniform application
4. Create continuous beads along all seams
5. Pay special attention to:
6. Cockpit area
7. Hatch openings
8. Puzzle joints

4. Shaping Fillets

1. Select appropriate radius tool for area
2. Larger tools for flatter angles
3. Smaller tools for tighter angles
4. Apply firm pressure to create proper fillet shape
5. Look for white lines on either side of fillet
6. Adjust tool angle to modify apparent radius when needed
7. Make multiple passes if necessary to achieve desired shape

5. Clean-up Process

1. Use squeegee to remove excess material
2. Angle like a plow
3. Run along white line between fillet and excess
4. For difficult areas:
5. Use smaller plastic tools or tongue depressors
6. Apply denatured alcohol to fingertip
7. Gently smooth rough spots with wet finger
8. Use light pressure to avoid removing too much material

Special Features

Creating Hatch Drain Holes

1. Apply extra fillet material at desired location
2. Shape into finger-sized diameter
3. Allow to cure
4. Sand down to create drainage notch

Quality Checks

1. Ensure fillets are consistent width (1/4 to 1/2 inch for kayaks)
2. Check for gaps or thin spots
3. Verify smooth transitions at all joints
4. Confirm no sharp edges or lumps remain
5. Ensure surface is suitable for fiberglass application

Important Notes

1. In this case we allowed the fillets to cure completely before fiberglassing, but you can proceed directly to fiberglassing while the fillets are still soft.
2. Mixing small batches ensures better control and less waste
3. Temperature affects working time (10-15 minutes typical)
4. Surface must be smooth for proper fiberglass adhesion
5. Light sanding may be required after cure before glassing

Safety Equipment

1. Respirator with organic vapor cartridges (for epoxy work)
2. Dust mask or respirator with particulate filters (for sanding)
3. Well-ventilated workspace
4. Clean work area

Required Materials

1. 4 oz fiberglass cloth
2. Epoxy resin and hardener (2:1 ratio)
3. Foam rollers
4. Roller tray
5. Chip brushes
6. Plastic squeegees
7. Sharp scissors
8. 80-grit sandpaper
9. Sanding blocks
10. Paper cup (for "grunge cup")
11. Vacuum cleaner
12. Shop rags

Pre-Fiberglass Surface Preparation

1. Sand all filleted areas until they have a dusty grayish-light brown appearance
2. Use 80-grit sandpaper
3. Focus on removing high spots and ridges
4. Break any sharp edges on wood or epoxy
5. Don't sand for cosmetic perfection - just enough for good adhesion
6. Clean up all sanding dust
7. Vacuum thoroughly (preferred method)
8. Do not use compressed air as it simply redistributes dust

Fiberglass Layout

1. Pre-cut fiberglass pieces
2. Allow approximately 4 inches of overlap at seams
3. Ensure cloth can conform around hatches and cockpit without excess wrinkles
4. Test fit before applying epoxy
5. Position cloth with factory edges across the boat
6. Arrange overlaps to face toward ends of boat
7. Ensure adequate coverage around cockpit and hatches
8. Trim excess while leaving enough to work with

Epoxy Application

1. Prepare workspace
2. Warm epoxy to room temperature for better flow (65-75°F ideal)
3. Mix small batches
4. Have all tools ready and accessible
5. Apply epoxy using foam roller method
6. Roll light coat of epoxy onto surface
7. Don't attempt to fully wet out cloth on first pass
8. Work in manageable sections
9. Focus on getting epoxy onto surface quickly
10. Use squeegee to spread epoxy
11. Work epoxy through cloth
12. Address dry spots with brush as needed
13. Allow time for epoxy to soak through (1-2 minutes)
14. Don't overwork or add excess epoxy
15. Managing problem areas
16. For bridging: Lift cloth edge and work material down into corners
17. For tight curves: Work from middle outward
18. For overlaps: Apply additional epoxy as needed
19. Cut relief cuts only as last resort
20. Final steps
21. Create "grunge cup" by cutting slot in paper cup
22. Remove excess epoxy by running a squeegee over the surface
23. Check for and address any remaining dry spots
24. Ensure cloth is fully wetted out but not oversaturated

Tips for Success

1. Mix small batches of epoxy to prevent waste and premature curing
2. Don't try to achieve perfection on first pass
3. Allow epoxy time to soak into cloth naturally
4. Work systematically from one section to another
5. Address bridging by moving cloth rather than adding excess epoxy
6. Trim excess glass as needed to prevent lifting
7. Keep tools clean and organized

Optional Follow-up

1. Apply fill coat after initial application cures
2. Sand surface when fully cured
3. Apply interior varnish for additional protection

Quality Checks

1. Look for consistent cloth texture showing through epoxy
2. Check for complete wet-out with no white spots
3. Ensure no excess epoxy pools or drips
4. Verify no bridging in corners or transitions
5. Confirm proper overlap at seams

Required Tools & Materials

1. Wire cutters
2. Four-in-hand shoe rasp (with fine and coarse sides)
3. Block plane (well-sharpened)
4. Masking tape
5. 120-grit sandpaper
6. Sanding block
7. Scraper
8. Scotch-Brite pad
9. Q-tips
10. Denatured alcohol
11. Stain (if needed for touch-ups)
12. Vacuum cleaner

1. Remove Forms and Clean Up Wire Stitches

1. Clip copper wires that held the forms in place
2. For each wire stitch location:
3. Place masking tape over the wire stubs
4. Push wires through the tape
5. File wires flush using the rasp
6. Remove tape
7. The remaining wire should be just slightly proud of the surface

2. Clean Up Epoxy Drips

1. Protect surrounding areas with masking tape
2. Use the rasp to remove drips:
3. Hold rasp flat against surface
4. Use pushing motion only (rasp only cuts on push stroke)
5. Work carefully to avoid gouging wood
6. Focus on one drip at a time
7. Continue until drips are nearly flush with surface

3. Round Over the Keel Line

1. Using block plane:
2. Start at center of keel line
3. Create a flat spot approximately 1/4 inch (6mm) wide
4. Keep plane level and work along entire keel line
5. Stop before bow and stern where curve becomes too steep
6. After creating flat spot:
7. Plane each edge at 45 degrees to create rounded profile
8. Check smoothness with hand
9. Avoid over-planing

4. Round Over the Chines

1. Similar to keel line process:
2. Hold plane halfway between panel angles
3. Create 1/4 inch wide flat spot
4. Work carefully near stained areas
5. Follow natural curve of chine
6. Round over edges:
7. Make smaller cuts to create smooth curve
8. Check frequently with hand
9. Maintain even width along length

5. Shape the Stems (Bow and Stern)

1. Plane stems to create initial shape:
2. Work until epoxy fillet becomes visible
3. Stay at least 1/4 inch from stitch holes
4. Create straight, even line
5. Round over stems:
6. Create series of flat spots around curve
7. Blend spots together into smooth curve
8. Make radius larger for easier fiberglassing
9. Check frequently with hand

6. Final Surface Preparation

1. Sand bare wood areas:
2. Use 120-grit sandpaper
3. Sand with grain direction
4. Make single pass over stained areas
5. Remove any remaining nubs or drips
6. Vacuum all dust thoroughly
7. Scuff epoxy/stained surfaces:
8. Use Scotch-Brite pad
9. Remove gloss but don't sand through
10. Work evenly across surface

7. Touch Up Stain (If Needed)

1. Identify areas needing touch-up:
2. Look for bare wood exposed during shaping
3. Distinguish between sanded epoxy (lighter) and bare wood
4. Apply stain:
5. Use Q-tip for precise application
6. Apply only to bare wood areas
7. Wipe excess immediately
8. Use denatured alcohol to blend edges
9. Allow to dry completely

Important Notes

1. Always check progress by running your hand over worked areas
2. Make intentional, single cuts rather than scrubbing motions
3. Keep tools sharp for best results
4. Don't remove more material than necessary
5. Remember that rounded edges increase durability
6. Keel line depth affects tracking: more material removed increases maneuverability
7. Take extra care near stained areas to preserve finish
8. Work systematically and avoid rushing

Next Steps

After completing these steps, the hull will be ready for:

1. Filling any remaining gaps in stems with thickened epoxy
2. Final cleaning
3. Fiberglassing exterior

Pre-Fiberglassing Preparation

1. Fill any gaps in stem (bow and stern)
2. Mix small batch of filleting compound
3. Put mixture in piping bag with fine tip
4. Inject into gaps until material squeezes out
5. Smooth off excess
6. Optional: Add stain to match wood color

Laying the Fiberglass

1. Position fiberglass cloth
2. Unroll cloth diagonally across hull
3. Allow excess to hang over edges
4. Cut cloth at diagonal angle near stern for efficient nesting with deck cloth
5. Leave generous overhang to catch drips
6. Smooth cloth before wetting
7. Use chip brush (not hands) to remove wrinkles
8. Remember: vertical wrinkles move horizontally, horizontal wrinkles move vertically
9. Avoid touching cloth with bare hands to prevent contamination

Applying Epoxy

1. Prepare materials
2. Mix epoxy (approximately 1 inch deep in container)
3. Pour mixed epoxy into roller tray
4. Wear gloves
5. Initial application
6. Start in middle of hull
7. Work from keel line to sheer line before moving lengthwise
8. Use roller to quickly transfer epoxy to surface
9. Don't attempt to achieve perfect wetout with roller
10. Squeegee technique
11. Follow roller application immediately with squeegee
12. Address dry spots by adding small amounts of additional epoxy
13. Work methodically, allowing time for epoxy to soak in
14. Don't rush squeegee work - this is the important part

Handling Stem Areas (Bow and Stern)

1. Trim and fold cloth at stems
2. Cut cloth evenly on both sides
3. Make diagonal cuts up to keel line
4. Fold first side over, wet out with epoxy
5. Wrap second side over, wet out
6. Minimize handling of cut edges to prevent fraying
7. Accept some roughness at top of stem

Final Steps

1. Grunge cup cleanup
2. Cut slit in paper cup edge
3. Start in middle, work toward ends
4. Remove excess resin methodically
5. Be careful near frayed edges

Fill Coat Application (2-4 hours after initial glassing)

1. Apply when initial coat is still slightly tacky
2. Mix fresh batch of unthickened epoxy
3. Application technique:
4. Brush horizontally to apply
5. Level with vertical strokes
6. Tip off horizontally to smooth
7. Work in 12 to 18-inch sections
8. Optional: Use torch to pop bubbles in final coat

Important Notes:

1. Keep workspace clean to prevent contamination
2. Remove roller covers before epoxy cures
3. Gravity helps on hull exterior - less risk of bridging
4. Don't overwork areas with cut/overlapped cloth
5. Save excess cloth for future repairs or small projects
6. Monitor temperature and working time of epoxy

Safety Considerations:

1. Maintain proper ventilation
2. Wear appropriate protective equipment (gloves, etc.)
3. Keep cleanup materials ready
4. Handle torch safely if using for bubble removal

1. Component Preparation and Fiberglassing

Initial Components

1. 2 Bulkheads (front and rear water barriers)
2. 2 Cheek plates (for backrest mounting and centering)
3. Coaming ring pieces
4. Skeg box components:
5. Skeg blade (plywood)
6. 2 side pieces
7. 3 spacers

Fiberglassing Small Components

1. Preparation
2. Arrange pieces to maximize fiberglass cloth usage
3. Cover adjacent edges with tape where needed
4. For skeg box holes:
5. Apply tape on one side of holes
6. Mix thickened epoxy (using cell fill)
7. Fill holes with excess epoxy for later sanding
8. Allow epoxy to soak into end grain
9. Applying Fiberglass
10. Mix standard batch of epoxy
11. Apply epoxy to surfaces with brush
12. Lay fiberglass cloth over components
13. For adjacent pieces:
14. Cut between pieces if they disagree on positioning
15. Ensure no overlapping
16. Ensure complete saturation with no dry spots or wrinkles
17. Trim excess with utility knife once cured
18. Using Peel Ply (Optional Enhancement)
19. After wetting out fiberglass:
20. Apply nylon peel ply over wet epoxy
21. Squeegee down thoroughly
22. Cut between panels at different heights
23. Allow to cure
24. Peel off nylon to reveal textured surface
25. Results in lighter layup requiring minimal fill coat

2. Coaming Riser Assembly

Materials Needed

1. 4 sets of 4 pieces (16 total pieces)
2. Each set has different curvatures
3. Packing tape
4. CA glue and accelerant
5. Thickened epoxy (with Fumed Silica/Coloidal Silica/CaboSil)
6. Multiple clamps

Assembly Process

1. Preparation
2. Apply packing tape to deck where coaming will sit
3. Sort pieces into 4 groups by curvature
4. Dry fit pieces to verify proper arrangement
5. Layout and Marking
6. Arrange first layer on deck
7. Ensure proper centering
8. Mark joint locations on tape
9. Mark reference points (stitch holes, etc.)
10. Create alignment marks for subsequent layers
11. Pre-Assembly
12. Remove all but bottom layer
13. Use CA glue to join butt joints
14. Place wax paper under joints while working
15. Final Assembly
16. Mix epoxy with copil (mayonnaise consistency)
17. Apply thickened epoxy to each layer
18. Ensure full coverage but avoid excess
19. Align pieces using reference marks
20. Add clamps progressively
21. Clean up squeeze-out
22. Allow to cure completely

Important Notes

1. Consider practicing fiberglassing on small components before tackling hull
2. Breaking tasks into smaller sessions is acceptable
3. Timing of small component work is flexible
4. Clean excess epoxy promptly
5. "No such thing as too many clamps" during assembly
6. Sand all components after curing
7. For structural joins, use epoxy rather than CA glue
8. CA glue is helpful for temporary alignment only

Safety Considerations

1. Work in well-ventilated area
2. Use appropriate personal protective equipment
3. Clean tools and surfaces promptly
4. Follow epoxy manufacturer's mixing instructions
5. Keep CA glue and accelerant separate until needed

For Petrel Play SG Kayak Kit (Chesapeake Light Craft) and similar kayaks with a skeg. Obviously, if your kayak doesn't have a skeg, skip over that bit.

1. Skeg Box Assembly

Materials Needed

1. Skeg box side panels (pre-glassed)
2. 3 spacer rings (4mm plywood)
3. Epoxy
4. White cellulose fiber or Fumed Silica
5. Clamps
6. Brush

Assembly Steps

1. Prepare the side panels
2. Ensure holes are filled with epoxy and taped over
3. Sand any drips flush with surface
4. Prepare spacer rings
5. Clean up any fuzzies from the plywood
6. These create the cavity for the skeg
7. Glue assembly
8. Mix epoxy with white cellulose fiber
9. Apply epoxy to spacer surfaces generously
10. Stack spacers between side panels
11. Clamp assembly thoroughly
12. Clean up squeeze-out on inner surfaces
13. Seal exposed end grain thoroughly

2. Skeg Shaping

Materials Needed

1. Plywood skeg
2. Farrier hand rasp (coarse and fine sides)
3. Sanding block
4. Fiberglass cloth
5. Epoxy
6. Spring clamps
7. Rectangular spacer pieces

Shaping Steps

1. Prepare the skeg
2. Sand epoxy-filled holes flush with surface
3. Mark the area to be shaped (from straight edge to corner)
4. Shape the leading edge
5. Round over the leading edge
6. Create initial flat spots
7. Sand until smooth and rounded
8. Create airfoil shape
9. Support skeg off workbench
10. File at low angle to create taper
11. Taper back about 1/3 of the width
12. Stop when middle ply begins showing
13. Do not create complete knife edge
14. Sand smooth with finer grit
15. Glass the skeg
16. Apply 4 layers total:
17. First layer: Wrap around leading edge
18. Additional layers: Apply at 45° angles
19. Extra reinforcement pieces over hook area
20. Wet out thoroughly with epoxy
21. Clamp as needed during cure
22. Add spacers
23. Attach rectangular pieces at trailing edge
24. Add spacer rings at hook area
25. Align grain 90° to skeg grain
26. Clamp until cured

3. End Pour Procedure

Materials Needed

1. Plastic squeegee (for dam)
2. Scissors
3. Tape
4. Epoxy
5. Wood flour (or phenolic/quartz microballoons)
6. Piping bag
7. Sandpaper

Steps

1. Create dam
2. Cut triangle shape from squeegee (~1.5" each side)
3. Test fit in kayak end
4. Adjust angles and depth as needed
5. Round corners slightly
6. Install dam
7. Scuff area where epoxy will bond
8. Tape dam in place
9. Ensure proper seal
10. Mix and pour
11. Mix epoxy with wood flour (thicker than fillet mix)
12. Load into piping bag
13. Cut large opening in bag
14. Inject mixture until slightly proud of sides
15. Ensure complete filling of space
16. Finishing
17. Allow to cure
18. Shape down for deck fit
19. Will serve as bonding point for deck attachment

Notes

1. Skeg is optional but helpful in certain conditions:
2. Long crossings in moderate winds
3. When fatigued
4. Various wind conditions (test to determine effectiveness)
5. Consider trade-offs:
6. Added control dimension
7. Takes up hatch space
8. Adds approximately 2 pounds
9. Additional maintenance point
10. Cable routing considerations

Maintenance

1. Ensure skeg moves freely
2. Check for debris in skeg box
3. Periodically inspect glass reinforcement
4. Test skeg deployment mechanism regularly

1. End Pour Preparation and Drilling

1. Remove the temporary dams from the end pours on the hull
2. Drill holes for carrying toggles:
3. Use a drill guide for alignment
4. Start with a smaller pilot hole
5. Drill through the solid end pour section
6. Countersink the holes using a larger bit to prevent rope chafing

2. Processing Fiberglassed Parts

1. Remove peel ply from all fiberglassed pieces
2. Trim excess fiberglass:
3. Use a utility knife to cut away loose fiberglass
4. Keep cuts close to the wood edge
5. Be careful when handling sharp tools
6. Clean up remaining edges with sandpaper if needed

3. Skeg Control Assembly

1. Prepare the control knob:
2. Mark center points according to drawing specifications
3. Drill 5/16" holes:
4. One horizontal hole through the width
5. One vertical hole from the top
6. Countersink hole edges
7. Fill holes with unthickened epoxy
8. Allow to cure before final drilling
9. Prepare the skeg:
10. Clean rough fiberglass edges
11. Drill three interconnecting holes:
12. One vertical hole following the back edge
13. One perpendicular hole crossing the vertical
14. One horizontal hole intersecting both
15. Fill all holes with epoxy
16. Round the leading edge
17. Taper the trailing edge
18. Clean up overall shape

4. Skeg Box Assembly

1. Clean and prepare surfaces:
2. Sand inside surfaces smooth
3. Remove any squeeze-out glue
4. Clean up edges for proper fit
5. Ensure peel ply surfaces are ready for gluing
6. Drill pivot holes in spacers
7. Fill holes with unthickened epoxy
8. Seal inner surfaces with epoxy
9. Apply thickened epoxy (mayonnaise consistency) to joining surfaces
10. Assemble and clamp:
11. Ensure proper alignment
12. Use multiple clamps
13. Position with long edge up while curing to prevent drips

5. Coaming Assembly Notes

Important: Install coaming after deck glassing for optimal results

1. Glass the deck first
2. Install coaming onto glassed surface
3. Round over edges to underside of deck
4. Glass coaming lip from top down the riser
5. Ensure structural integrity for lifting points

Safety Considerations

1. Wear breathing protection when sanding
2. Use proper eye protection
3. Handle sharp tools with care
4. Work in a well-ventilated area when using epoxy
5. Follow proper epoxy mixing and application procedures

Materials Needed

1. Epoxy (thickened and unthickened)
2. Fiberglass
3. Peel ply
4. Sandpaper
5. Denatured alcohol for cleanup
6. Various drill bits
7. Clamps
8. Utility knife
9. Files/rasps
10. Protective equipment

Note: Order of operations is important. Some steps require cure time before proceeding. Plan work sessions accordingly to maximize efficiency.

Materials Needed

1. Skeg box components (side panels and spacer)
2. Skeg
3. Control knob blank
4. Stainless steel pivot pin
5. Control cable (1/8" diameter)
6. Two 10-24 set screws (one long, one short)
7. Fiberglass cloth
8. Epoxy
9. Number 25 drill bit
10. 3/16" drill bit
11. 10-24 tap
12. Four-in-hand rasp
13. Belt sander (optional)
14. Router with 1/4" round-over bit (optional)
15. Drill press
16. Clamps

1. Skeg Box Preparation

1. Remove clamps from assembled skeg box
2. Round over the edges:
3. Use a four-in-hand rasp to clean up the faces
4. Create a 45-degree chamfer on the edges
5. Round over the corners Alternative power tool method:
6. Clean faces with belt sander
7. Use router with 1/4" round-over bit for edges
8. Install pivot pin:
9. Locate pre-drilled 1/2" holes (filled with epoxy)
10. Drill straight through with 1/4" bit
11. Insert stainless steel pivot pin
12. Ensure pin is slightly recessed on both sides
13. Surface preparation:
14. Sand to de-gloss shiny surfaces
15. Feather in any uneven glass areas
16. Clean up routed corners

2. Skeg Preparation

1. Clean up epoxy-filled holes
2. Drill required holes:
3. Use Number 25 drill bit for set screw holes
4. Drill 1/8" hole for control cable
5. Drill 3/16" cross hole for cable clamping
6. Tap Number 25 holes with 10-24 tap
7. Create hook formation:
8. Connect pre-cut notches to drilled hole
9. File to final size
10. Add spacer discs to center skeg in box

3. Control Knob Preparation

1. Mark dimensions:
2. Overall width: 1-1/2"
3. Tab width: 7/8"
4. Remove 5/16" from each side
5. Tab height: 7/8"
6. Shape the knob:
7. Cut rectangles to marked dimensions
8. Round bottom and top edges
9. Create pleasing handle shape
10. Taper width at top (optional)
11. Sand smooth
12. Drill and tap:
13. Drill center hole for cable
14. Drill and tap for set screw
15. Ensure set screw hole intersects cable hole

4. Fiberglass Reinforcement of Skeg Box

1. Prepare bias-cut glass:
2. Cut fiberglass cloth at 45-degree angle
3. Width should be slightly wider than hand
4. Apply glass:
5. Mix epoxy
6. Apply base coat of epoxy around edges
7. Center bias-cut glass on edges
8. Work glass around corners
9. Make relief cuts for interior corners as needed
10. Distribute any wrinkles evenly
11. Add small reinforcement patches over pivot pin ends
12. Allow to cure:
13. Use clamps as supports while curing
14. Let cure for 12 hours

Notes

1. Complete these steps before joining deck and hull
2. Ensure proper fit of components before final assembly
3. Final fitting of skeg to box should be done after box installation in hull
4. Take care to maintain parallel alignment when drilling
5. Clean tools and workspace between epoxy applications

Safety Considerations

1. Wear appropriate protective equipment when sanding and drilling
2. Work in well-ventilated area when using epoxy
3. Follow proper power tool safety procedures
4. Clean up epoxy spills immediately

Materials Needed

1. Skeg box
2. Control slot
3. Stainless steel tubing (1/4" and 3/16")
4. Barb fitting
5. Epoxy
6. Wood flour (for filleting mix)
7. Fiberglass cloth (bias cut)
8. CA glue (for tacking)
9. Cheek plates
10. Tubing cutter
11. Japanese pull saw or jigsaw
12. Utility knife
13. Rasp
14. Countersink drill
15. Heat gun
16. Brushes
17. Mixing supplies for epoxy

1. Installing the Control Slot

Location and Preparation

1. Position control slot 5-6 inches behind front of cockpit
2. Place approximately 1 inch above sheer line (deck-hull joint)
3. Mark location and drill pilot hole through deck
4. Note: Left-handed paddlers may prefer opposite side installation

Mounting the Control Tubes

1. Cut 1/4" stainless steel tubing in half using tubing cutter
2. Clean tube ends with countersink drill
3. Insert 3/16" tube through both 1/4" pieces to ensure alignment
4. Position assembly on deck, ensuring tubes are parallel to edge
5. Tack in place with CA glue
6. Verify alignment and tube straightness

Securing the Control Slot

1. Heat area with heat gun to lower epoxy viscosity
2. Apply unthickened epoxy to allow wicking between deck and slot
3. Mix filleting compound (epoxy + wood flour)
4. Apply small fillet around perimeter and tube ends
5. Apply bias-cut fiberglass cloth:
6. Cut cloth to overhang ends by 1 inch
7. Lay while fillet is still wet
8. Ensure cloth wraps onto stainless tubing
9. Wet out thoroughly with epoxy
10. Remove bubbles and smooth

2. Installing the Skeg Box

Preparation and Positioning

1. Locate pre-drilled stitch holes in hull bottom
2. Offset skeg box slightly from centerline (helps prevent sand damage)
3. Mark rectangle connecting stitch holes
4. Cut along marked lines using pull saw or utility knife
5. Keep cuts vertical relative to horizontal hull
6. Use finger guide for straight cuts

Fitting

1. Test fit skeg box in opening
2. Adjust fit using rasp if needed
3. Hold rasp vertically
4. Slightly angle cuts inward for better filleting
5. Ensure marks on skeg box align with hull bottom
6. Verify box is perpendicular using alignment jig
7. Tack in place with CA glue

Installation

1. Heat area with heat gun
2. Apply unthickened epoxy to seal end grain
3. Mix and apply larger fillet around perimeter
4. Apply bias-cut fiberglass cloth while fillet is wet:
5. Use 2-3 inch wide strips
6. Layer multiple pieces around perimeter
7. Ensure good coverage on hull and box sides
8. Apply second layer for additional strength
9. Install barb fitting:
10. Clean fitting with acetone
11. Apply thickened epoxy to threads
12. Thread into pre-drilled hole

3. Installing Cheek Plates

Positioning

1. Locate stitch hole 4 inches from back of cockpit
2. Align plate parallel to boat side and vertical
3. Ensure space between plate and coaming edge

Installation

1. Prep surfaces for epoxy
2. Tack in place with CA glue
3. Apply filleting mix:
4. Larger fillet on inside
5. Smaller fillet on visible side
6. Apply bias-cut fiberglass:
7. 2-4 inches wide
8. Cover half plate and half deck
9. Apply two offset layers for strain relief
10. Wet out thoroughly

Notes

1. Complete all interior systems before deck installation
2. Ensure proper alignment of all components
3. Allow adequate cure time between steps
4. Sand any sharp fiberglass edges after curing
5. Verify all fittings and components are secure before proceeding

Safety Considerations

1. Work in well-ventilated area
2. Use appropriate personal protective equipment
3. Follow epoxy manufacturer's instructions
4. Exercise caution with sharp tools and heat gun

Required Materials

1. Plane and/or rasp
2. Sandpaper (60 grit)
3. Masking tape
4. Fiber-reinforced strapping tape (3M 893 recommended)
5. Tape dispenser with brake
6. CA glue (super glue)
7. CA accelerant
8. Epoxy mixed with wood flour
9. Foam V-blocks for support
10. Putty knife (optional)

Preparation Steps

1. Clean the Sheer Line (Deck and Hull)

1. Remove epoxy drips and excess fiberglass from the joining edges
2. Use a plane or rasp to clean the flat faces without changing their shape
3. Ensure beveled areas maintain their approximately 45-degree angle
4. Clean up any sharp spots that could be hazardous

2. Prepare Interior Surfaces

1. Sand interior surfaces near the seam with 60-grit sandpaper
2. Remove any sharp spots or wrinkles in the fiberglass
3. Sand smooth any bubbles or irregularities that could trap air
4. Clean up end pours until they fit properly together

3. Protect Components

1. Cover any barb fittings or tubes with masking tape
2. Apply masking tape to areas where you don't want epoxy contact

Assembly Process

1. Prepare End Pours

1. Mix epoxy with wood flour to create a thickened mixture
2. Apply epoxy mixture to end pours
3. Ensure enough epoxy for squeeze-out when joining

2. Initial Alignment

1. Place deck onto hull
2. Align puzzle joints and overall fit
3. Make adjustments as needed for proper alignment

3. Taping Process

1. Prepare Tape Strips
2. Fold over the end of each tape piece for easy removal later
3. Plan for tape placement every 6 inches along seam
4. Apply Tape
5. Start at puzzle joints for alignment reference
6. Work alternately on both sides to maintain even pressure
7. Follow this sequence for each tape piece: a. Stick tape to deck b. Align seam by hand c. Pull tape tight using dispenser brake d. Secure to hull e. Cut tape and burnish down
8. Tips for Tape Application
9. Use tape dispenser brake for proper tension
10. Keep tape wrinkle-free
11. Split large gaps by adding tape between existing pieces
12. Use putty knife for leverage in hard-to-reach areas
13. Work incrementally, improving fit gradually
14. Ensure tape is well-burnished for proper adhesion

4. Final Securing

1. Apply small dots of CA glue between tape pieces
2. Space CA glue spots every few inches
3. Apply accelerant carefully, avoiding tape
4. Allow assembly to set before next steps

Important Notes

1. Work in a systematic manner, alternating sides
2. Don't rush to perfect alignment; work gradually
3. Complete taping near end pours before epoxy sets
4. Use quality strapping tape to prevent failures
5. Maintain comfort and proper positioning while working
6. Break down complex moves into manageable steps
7. Consider taping in stages rather than all at once

Next Steps

1. Allow assembly to set
2. Prepare for interior seam taping
3. Clean any squeeze-out before it fully cures

Safety Considerations

1. Avoid cutting yourself on tape dispenser blade
2. Be careful with putty knife leverage to prevent wood splitting
3. Handle CA glue and accelerant with appropriate care
4. Ensure proper ventilation when working with epoxy and adhesives

Materials Needed

1. 3-inch wide fiberglass seam tape (9-ounce with salvaged edge)
2. Epoxy resin and hardener
3. Masking tape (green tape)
4. Paint brushes
5. Brush-on-a-stick assembly
6. Wax paper
7. Clamps
8. Flashlight
9. Scissors

Preparation Steps

1. Position the kayak on edge with the seam at the bottom
2. Ensure the boat is perfectly vertical, not tilted to either side
3. Secure with clamps as needed
4. Prepare the Seam
5. Apply green masking tape along the seam to prevent epoxy from draining out
6. Apply tape to one side first, then fold over to the other side
7. Minimize wrinkles in the tape as they will fill with epoxy
8. Prepare the Fiberglass Tape
9. Measure the tape length by laying it along the outside of the boat
10. Cut two pieces: one for bow and one for stern
11. Cut the ends of the tape at a diagonal angle to prevent unraveling
12. Plan for overlap behind the cheek plate
13. Lay measured pieces flat on wax paper

Installation Process

1. Mix and Apply Initial Epoxy
2. Mix a standard batch of epoxy
3. Heavily saturate the fiberglass tape on the wax paper
4. Brush epoxy generously along the interior seam
5. Ensure epoxy runs into any gaps along the seam
6. Install Bow Section
7. Roll up the saturated tape as tightly as possible
8. Start behind the cheek plate
9. Center the tape on the seam
10. Gradually unroll the tape down the seam
11. Use fingers to feel the seam position when visibility is limited
12. Use brush-on-stick to reach difficult areas
13. Work quickly before epoxy begins to set
14. Install Stern Section
15. Repeat the process for stern section
16. Ensure proper overlap with bow section
17. Work quickly but carefully to maintain alignment
18. Use brush-on-stick for hard-to-reach areas
19. Final Steps
20. Brush down the entire length of tape to remove air bubbles
21. Press tape into the seam groove to create a small fillet
22. Check for and fix any bridging or wrinkles
23. Allow epoxy to cure completely before removing masking tape

Important Tips

1. Work in moderate temperatures to prevent epoxy from setting too quickly
2. If tape goes off-center, quickly roll it back up and try again
3. Ensure full saturation of the tape before installation
4. Don't worry if alignment isn't perfect - half-inch coverage on each side is sufficient
5. If tape bunches at the ends, either increase the overlap in the middle or leave as is
6. Keep flashlight and tools clean of epoxy
7. Allow first side to cure completely before flipping boat to do opposite seam

Safety Considerations

1. Work in a well-ventilated area
2. Wear appropriate protective equipment
3. Keep epoxy off skin and clothing
4. Clean tools immediately after use

Materials Needed

1. Rasp (coarse and fine sides)
2. Block plane
3. Power sander
4. Sandpaper (60 grit, 80 grit, 120 grit)
5. Scotch-brite pad
6. Denatured alcohol
7. Drum sander (two sizes)
8. Masking tape
9. Stiff sanding block

1. Initial Tape Removal

1. Remove strapping tape from the deck
2. Clean up any remaining fiberglass threads (these will be fully cleaned in later steps)

2. Rounding Over the Chines

Main Shear Line

1. Create a quarter-inch (5-6mm) wide flat chamfer along the shear line
2. Split the difference between deck and hull panel angles
3. Use either a block plane or rasp
4. Maintain consistent width throughout
5. Round over the chamfer edges
6. Use the fine side of the rasp
7. Work until you can't feel any edges
8. Test smoothness with your hand

Other Chines

1. Check for shallow angles that won't need modification
2. Identify areas with overhanging edges
3. Carefully plane down higher edges
4. Pay special attention to areas with stained/unstained transitions
5. Use precise tools on stained areas to avoid damage
6. Work with the grain to prevent scratches
7. Use stiff sanding blocks for better control

3. End Pour and Special Areas

Bow and Stern

1. Trim the pointy ends ("circumcision" - I know its a sick joke)
2. Round over all corners
3. Check for and remove any squeeze-out from end pour
4. Blend surfaces for smooth transitions

Cockpit Area

1. Create 3/8 inch (8mm) chamfer around cockpit recess
2. Round over edges carefully
3. Blend any protruding wood pieces
4. Pay special attention to front and back areas

Hatch Areas

1. Round over edges around hatch openings
2. Level any "nubbins" at front of hatch recess
3. Create thumb holes in drain fillets:
4. Use small drum sander first
5. Follow with larger drum sander
6. Move tool back and forth to avoid dimpling
7. Create matching holes on both sides

4. Wire Management

1. Cover protruding wires with tape
2. Level any CA glue drips
3. Ensure wires are roughly flush with tape surface

5. Surface Preparation

Hull Edge Preparation

1. Scuff 2 inches down the hull with 60 grit power sander
2. Remove all shiny spots
3. Keep tool flat to avoid digging into surface

Final Sanding

1. Sand unstained plywood with 120 grit
2. Work with the grain
3. Use moderate pressure
4. Carefully sand stained areas
5. Avoid puzzle joints
6. Use minimal pressure
7. Final pass with Scotch-brite pad
8. De-gloss entire surface
9. Safe to use on puzzle joints
10. Cover any areas missed in previous sanding

Quality Control

1. Continuously check surfaces by touch
2. Look for consistent transitions
3. Verify all high spots are leveled
4. Ensure no sharp edges remain
5. Check that stained areas maintain crisp lines
6. Verify all surfaces are properly de-glossed

Safety Notes

1. Work in a well-ventilated area
2. Wear appropriate dust protection
3. Keep tools sharp for better control
4. Take breaks as needed to maintain precision

Remember: This is primarily aesthetic work - take your time and be methodical. The goal is to create smooth transitions for the fiberglass while maintaining the boat's appearance.

A comprehensive guide for fiberglassing the deck and installing the combing on a stitch-and-glue sea kayak.

Required Materials

1. Fiberglass cloth
2. Epoxy resin and hardener
3. Cellulose powder (thickener)
4. Blue painter's tape (2-inch width) - The color doesn't really matter, but different colors can help.
5. Green painter's tape
6. Sharp scissors
7. Utility knife with new blade
8. Paint brush
9. Foam roller and tray
10. Plastic squeegee
11. C-clamps
12. Q-tips
13. Wood stain - If necessary
14. Paper towels
15. Protective gear (gloves, respirator)
16. Optional: blowtorch for bubble removal

Preparation Steps

1. Ensure all surfaces are clean and sanded
2. Erase any remaining pencil marks from previous steps
3. Touch up stain on rounded edges:
4. Apply stain with Q-tip only to bare wood areas
5. Wipe excess within 15 seconds
6. Allow stain to dry completely

Taping Process

1. Apply blue tape approximately 2 inches below deck edge:
2. Place tape parallel to deck edge
3. Ensure smooth, continuous application
4. Press firmly to adhere
5. Create drip edge:
6. Fold bottom edge of blue tape under (¼ inch fold)
7. Ensure folded edge points away from hull
8. Continue along entire length
9. Apply green tape:
10. Overlap blue tape by ½ inch
11. Maintain minimum 1-inch distance from deck edge
12. Press firmly to seal

Fiberglassing Process

1. Cut and position fiberglass:
2. Cut cloth with sharp scissors
3. Position at slight diagonal for better conformity
4. Ensure coverage extends to green tape
5. Allow extra material for trimming
6. Mix and apply epoxy:
7. Mix small batches (fill container ¼ full)
8. Begin at cockpit area
9. Work outward systematically
10. Ensure complete saturation to green tape edge
11. Address problem areas:
12. For bridging issues, make relief cuts
13. Add patches where needed
14. Pay special attention to contoured areas
15. Remove air pockets with squeegee

Combing Installation

1. Prepare combing piece:
2. Clean surfaces
3. Mix epoxy with cellulose powder thickener
4. Install combing:
5. Apply thickened epoxy to both surfaces
6. Position carefully
7. Align edges
8. Clamp at front and back first
9. Add additional clamps along length
10. Ensure clamps sit on plywood, not edges

Fill Coat Application

1. Trim excess glass:
2. Score just above green tape
3. Use sharp utility knife
4. Remove tape and excess glass
5. Check for remaining tape residue
6. Prepare for fill coat:
7. Prepare chip brush (optional: CA glue treatment)
8. Mix fresh batch of unthickened epoxy
9. Apply fill coat:
10. Work in sections
11. Apply horizontal strokes first
12. Follow with vertical strokes
13. Finish with light horizontal strokes
14. Extend to blue tape edge
15. Avoid dragging across edges
16. Optional: use blowtorch to remove bubbles

Final Steps

1. Allow epoxy to partially cure (until it stops moving but still soft)
2. Remove blue tape
3. Allow complete cure before next steps

Important Notes

1. Temperature control is crucial:
2. Ideal working temperature: 70°F
3. Consider starting warm and allowing to cool
4. Cooling temperatures help prevent outgassing
5. Work systematically and don't rush
6. Clean tools between batches
7. Maintain adequate ventilation
8. Wear appropriate protective gear throughout process

Always follow manufacturer's guidelines for epoxy mixing ratios and cure times.

Required Tools

1. Putty knife
2. Coarse rasp
3. Traditional hand rasp
4. Router with round-over bit
5. 80-grit sandpaper
6. Utility knife
7. Drum sander
8. Orbital sander with dust collection
9. Masking tape
10. Dust mask (recommended for safety)

1. Removing Blue Tape After Epoxy Coating

1. Use a putty knife to get under the edge of the tape
2. Peel carefully, being mindful of areas where epoxy may have seeped under
3. Note: Removal is easier when done the morning after application while epoxy is still somewhat soft

2. Combing Preparation

Initial Cleanup

1. Remove all clamps from the combing
2. Trim off excess glass from edges
3. Clean up the face that will receive additional glass (from top of combing lip down and under deck)

Shaping the Combing

1. Use coarse rasp to knock down the edge
2. Hold rasp vertically along the face
3. Work carefully around thigh braces
4. Aim for a vertical, flat surface from top to bottom
5. Round Over Top Edge
6. Use router with round-over bit (approximately 1/4 inch radius)
7. Make initial pass to remove excess epoxy
8. Follow up with hand tools for final shaping
9. Bottom Edge Treatment
10. Create chamfer approximately 1/4 inch wide
11. Use rasp to knock corners down where router can't reach
12. Pay special attention around cheek plates

3. Surface Finishing

1. Sand all surfaces with 80-grit sandpaper
2. Sand top surface of combing
3. Sand undersides where glass will be applied
4. Clean up edges around cheek plates
5. Ensure all edges pass the "hand test" (no sharp edges)
6. Address Problem Areas
7. Fix any gaps in riser stack alignment
8. Fill larger gaps with epoxy mixing if needed
9. Remove any bubbles in glass by cutting and sanding
10. Sand to feather edges where glass meets wood

4. Skeg Box Preparation

1. Cutting Skeg Box
2. Apply protective tape around box to prevent tool damage
3. Use saw to carefully cut excess material
4. Work from various angles to avoid cutting into boat bottom
5. Surface Preparation
6. Sand cut surface flush with hull using 60-80 grit sandpaper
7. Feather edges of existing glass around box
8. Sand until fiberglass weave pattern is visible, then through it
9. Create smooth transition zone for new glass
10. Final Preparation
11. Ease sharp edges around skeg box
12. Apply masking tape inside skeg box slot to prevent epoxy intrusion
13. Ensure tape is well-pressed and secure
14. Sand hull surface 2 inches beyond keel line for good mechanical bond
15. Remove any remaining blue tape
16. Flatten major drips without completely eliminating them

Important Notes

1. Wear dust mask when sanding fiberglass and epoxy
2. When sanding, focus on high spots rather than shiny spots
3. Avoid aggressive sanding through glass except where intended
4. Always test edges by hand for smoothness
5. Clean surfaces thoroughly before applying new glass
6. Pay attention to maintaining proper clearance for spray skirt attachment at stern

Next Steps

Prepare for fiberglassing:

1. Cut bias-cut fiberglass pieces
2. Glass deck first to avoid contact with support blocks
3. Apply keel strip from deck down past skeg box
4. Ensure boat is properly supported during flipping

Materials Needed

1. 4 oz fiberglass cloth
2. Epoxy resin and hardener
3. Scissors
4. Paper cups
5. Squeegee
6. Gloves
7. Clean rags
8. Wide workbench or flat surface

Preparation Steps

Cutting Fiberglass Strips

1. Roll out fiberglass cloth on a clean, wide surface
2. Cut strips approximately 4 inches (8 cm) wide at a 45° angle (bias cut)
3. Follow the diagonal lines visible in the fabric weave
4. Strips should be long enough to wrap around the cockpit combing
5. Carefully trim diagonal ends
6. Gently fold strips and set aside in a safe place

Important Handling Notes

1. Never pull or tug on the bias-cut cloth
2. Avoid holding the cloth directly while cutting
3. Handle strips delicately to maintain their shape
4. Do not disturb the weave pattern

Application Process

Mixing Epoxy

1. Mix small batches (approximately 3/4 inch to 1 inch in cup)
2. Prepare only what can be used within working time

Applying Fiberglass

1. Apply initial coat of epoxy to the surface
2. Place bias-cut cloth carefully against vertical surface
3. Center the strip on the combing
4. Ensure enough length to cover top of combing and wrap underneath deck
5. Allow cloth to naturally fall into place without pulling

Working the Cloth

1. Use dabbing motion (not stroking) to work cloth into place
2. Fold over edges carefully
3. Make relief cuts where necessary (around knee braces)
4. Ensure cloth wraps:
5. Over the top of the combing lip
6. Down the riser
7. Under the deck (approximately 1 inch)

Final Steps

1. Remove excess epoxy using grunge cup technique
2. Address any cloudy areas from air bubbles
3. Clean up any drips on bottom surface
4. Clean any excess epoxy from deck surface
5. Allow to cure completely

Tips and Warnings

1. Work in sections if needed rather than attempting entire circumference at once
2. Overlap pieces by 1-2 centimeters where sections meet
3. Clean excess epoxy immediately to reduce sanding later
4. Multiple thin layers are better than one thick layer
5. 4 oz cloth requires two layers for similar protection as one layer of 9 oz cloth
6. Wood is tougher than it appears - don't be overly gentle during application

Next Steps

1. Allow complete curing
2. Sand entire boat surface
3. Apply fill coat
4. Sand again
5. Apply varnish (multiple coats with sanding between)

Note: This process applies to both the combing and keel strip areas of the kayak. Bias-cut cloth is superior to pre-woven tape for conforming to curved surfaces.

Important Concepts

1. Fairing vs. Sanding: The goal is to level the surface, not just sand it. Focus on bringing down high spots to match low spots.
2. Glass Protection: Avoid sanding through the fiberglass. Once you break fibers, you can't restore them without patching.
3. Surface Preparation: The quality of this initial fairing process significantly impacts the final finish.

Required Materials

1. Long sanding board (fairly stiff)
2. Self-adhesive 60-grit sandpaper (40-grit optional for aggressive work)
3. Smaller sanding block for narrow areas
4. Rasp for high spots
5. Needle file/rasp for detailed work
6. Scotch-Brite pads
7. Dust collection system/vacuum
8. Denatured alcohol
9. Chip brushes
10. Masking tape
11. Epoxy
12. Optional: Propane torch for bubble removal

Safety Equipment

1. Dust collection system
2. Appropriate respiratory protection
3. Eye protection

Process

1. Initial Surface Preparation

1. Remove any remaining blue tape from previous work
2. Scrape off any drips or high spots using a rasp
3. Hold the rasp flat against the surface
4. Focus on high spots only
5. Use short, deliberate strokes

2. Main Fairing Process

1. Attach 60-grit sandpaper to long board
2. Create dust collection holes if using vacuum system
3. Sand in the following manner:
4. Keep the tool flat against the surface
5. Never sand across chines or edges
6. Work in systematic sections
7. Continue until either:
8. All shiny spots are gone, or
9. Fiberglass texture begins to show

3. Special Areas

1. Puzzle Joints:
2. Sand carefully to avoid breaking through
3. Stop when glass texture first appears
4. Accept some remaining shine rather than oversanding
5. Chines and Edges:
6. Avoid sanding these areas with coarse grit
7. Save for final sanding with 100-120 grit
8. Maintain edge integrity
9. Narrow Areas:
10. Use smaller sanding block
11. Maintain careful control near edges
12. Work systematically

4. Surface Preparation for Fill Coat

1. Use Scotch-Brite pad to de-gloss remaining shiny areas
2. Light pressure
3. Cover entire surface
4. Pay special attention to corners
5. Clean Surface:
6. Vacuum thoroughly
7. Wipe down with denatured alcohol
8. Check for flaws (scratches that remain visible after alcohol wipe need attention)

5. Fill Coat Application

1. Prepare the Boat:
2. Position boat at angle for optimal coating
3. Apply masking tape 1/16" below seam lines
4. Create drip edges by folding tape
5. Prepare Tools:
6. Clean chip brushes
7. Use tape to remove loose bristles
8. Optional: Apply super glue to ferrule to secure bristles
9. Apply Epoxy:
10. Work in 1-foot sections
11. Three-stroke method: a. Distribute: Horizontal strokes to apply epoxy b. Level: Vertical strokes to even out c. Tip-off: Light horizontal strokes to remove brush marks
12. Maintain wet edge
13. Avoid brushing across edges
14. Optional: Use torch to remove bubbles

Tips for Success

1. Don't rush the fairing process - it's crucial for final finish
2. Watch for glass texture - stop sanding when it appears
3. Small breakthroughs (dime-sized) are acceptable but not ideal
4. Vertical surfaces need extra attention during fill coat
5. Apply fill coat generously - thin coats are not always better
6. Remove masking tape before epoxy fully cures

Next Steps

1. Allow fill coat to cure
2. Evaluate surface
3. Determine if additional fill coat needed
4. Proceed to finish sanding (80-120 grit)
5. Begin varnishing process

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Sanding through glass at puzzle joints
2. Rounding over chines and edges
3. Rushing through the fairing process
4. Working too long in one area
5. Leaving drips and sags in fill coat
6. Applying uneven coat thickness

Equipment Needed

1. Shinto wood rasp or four-in-hand rasp
2. File card (for cleaning rasps)
3. Longboard sander
4. Small sanding block
5. Sandpaper (60, 80, 100-120 grit)
6. Dust-collecting sanding block (optional)
7. Step drill
8. Masking tape
9. Epoxy
10. Wood flour
11. Mil fiber (optional)
12. Q-tips
13. Piping bag
14. Measuring tape

1. Cleaning Up Epoxy Drips

1. Remove tape from previous epoxy application
2. For hardened drips that crossed the tape line:
3. Use a Shinto wood rasp or four-in-hand rasp
4. Hold the tool flat against the surface
5. Work only on high spots
6. Avoid digging edges into the surface
7. Clean the rasp periodically with a file card

2. Surface Sanding Process

Initial Leveling

1. Start with 80 grit sandpaper on a longboard
2. Switch to 60 grit if progress is too slow
3. Keep the sanding board flat against the surface
4. Use long strokes, engaging your whole body
5. Focus on already-sanded areas (high spots) rather than shiny spots (low spots)
6. Change sandpaper frequently when it becomes dull

Detail Work

1. Use smaller sanding blocks for:
2. Narrow areas
3. Near chines and edges
4. Areas where the longboard can't reach
5. Maintain even pressure
6. Avoid rolling over edges to prevent cutting through the cloth

Final Sanding

1. Progress to finer grits (100-120)
2. Aim for a uniform scratch pattern
3. Address any remaining shiny spots or irregularities

3. Hardware Installation Preparation

Deck Line Installation

1. Plan deck line locations:
2. Around perimeter (~1 inch from sheer line)
3. Cross-pieces for paddle storage
4. Front storage area accessible from cockpit
5. Mark hole locations using stitch holes as reference
6. Drill holes:
7. Use step drill
8. Make holes slightly larger than 3/16" bolt size
9. Apply masking tape on the inside of holes

Back Band Installation

1. Locate mounting points on cheek plates
2. Drill 1/4" holes for mounting bolts
3. Add support holes for bungee cord

Foot Peg Installation

1. Position foot pegs:
2. Measure 1 foot forward from puzzle joint
3. Mark locations for mounting holes
4. Drill holes to 1/2" size
5. Apply masking tape on the inside of holes

4. Epoxy Filling Process

1. Pre-treat holes:
2. Use Q-tip to apply unthickened epoxy
3. Allow epoxy to soak into end grain
4. Prepare epoxy mixture:
5. Mix epoxy
6. Add mil fiber (optional)
7. Add wood flour until peanut butter consistency
8. Transfer to piping bag
9. Fill holes:
10. Cut small tip on piping bag (1/8")
11. Fill each hole completely
12. Allow for slight overflow
13. Clean-up:
14. Return after 1 hour when partially cured
15. Scrape off excess epoxy while still soft
16. Allow to fully cure before final sanding

Important Notes

1. Quality of final finish depends on thorough preparation
2. Maintain sharp sandpaper for best results
3. Focus on leveling the surface rather than spot fixing
4. Be patient and methodical with sanding process
5. Ensure symmetrical placement of all hardware
6. Monitor epoxy cure times for optimal results

Required Materials

1. Sandpaper (60, 80, and 220 grit)
2. Sanding blocks of various sizes
3. Vacuum cleaner with dust collection
4. Denatured alcohol
5. Varnish (e.g., Interlux)
6. Varnish-compatible thinner
7. Masking tape
8. Clean rags
9. Super glue (for filling small holes)
10. Counter sink drill (for grab loop holes)

Custom Sanding Tools

Create these specialized tools for hard-to-reach areas:

1. Coaming Tool
2. Small piece of cedar with sandpaper attached to surface
3. Used for reaching under the coaming
4. Hook Tool
5. Repurposed hook with wood backing
6. Hot glue sandpaper to bottom
7. Useful for reaching underneath areas
8. Multi-surface Tool
9. Design to reach vertical surfaces inside risers
10. Include surface for underneath lip
11. Customize spacing to match your kayak's dimensions

Sanding Process

Initial Leveling (60-80 grit)

1. Start with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper for major leveling
2. Focus on removing high spots and drips
3. Keep sanding block flat against surface
4. Apply pressure in middle of surface to prevent toggling
5. Use vacuum frequently to remove dust for better sanding efficiency
6. Rotate sandpaper periodically as ends wear

Detail Areas

1. Use custom tools for coaming area
2. Sand underneath lips and edges carefully
3. Pay special attention to vertical surfaces inside risers
4. Address air bubbles:
5. Sand carefully through bubble areas
6. Fill resulting pits with super glue
7. Sand smooth once cured

Progressive Sanding

1. Complete all leveling with 60-80 grit
2. Move to higher grits (progressing to 220)
3. Change sanding direction between grits
4. Check progress by looking for previous grit's scratch patterns
5. Sand until previous scratches disappear

Edge and Seam Treatment

1. Avoid aggressive sanding on keel line and chine lines until final stages
2. Use 220 grit only on these sensitive areas
3. Sand carefully to maintain edge integrity
4. Check for visible weave pattern - test with denatured alcohol to preview varnish appearance

Pre-Varnish Preparation

Clean-up

1. Vacuum thoroughly to remove all dust
2. Wipe down with water (optional, helps remove epoxy blush)
3. Clean with denatured alcohol
4. Final wipe with varnish-compatible thinner

Final Details

1. Counter sink grab loop holes
2. Trim back glass around skeg slot
3. Rasp skeg slot edges flush
4. Mask off deck-hull joint to prevent varnish drips

Tips and Best Practices

1. Use coarse grits for efficient leveling
2. Maintain consistent pressure when sanding
3. Check work frequently for burn-through
4. Use dust collection for health and efficiency
5. Test visibility of weave pattern using denatured alcohol
6. Avoid using compressed air for dust removal
7. Keep work area clean to prevent dust settling on varnish

Quality Considerations

1. Perfect reflection isn't necessary for function
2. Balance aesthetics with practical use
3. Focus on UV protection rather than perfect shine
4. Consider intended use when deciding on finish quality

Prerequisites

1. Kayak with 4 initial coats of fast-drying varnish (cured for 3-4 weeks)
2. 320 grit sandpaper
3. Power sander with dust collection
4. Hand sander
5. Auto body file/rasp (for drips)
6. Paint thinner
7. Foam brushes (2-inch and smaller size for detail work)
8. Final protective coat varnish
9. Vacuum cleaner
10. Filter for varnish

Preparation Steps

1. Initial Surface Assessment
2. Check for drips and sags from previous varnish coats
3. Ensure previous coats are fully hardened (ideally 3-4 weeks cure time)
4. Sanding Setup
5. Attach 320 grit sandpaper to power sander
6. Connect dust collection system
7. Keep extra sandpaper ready (replace frequently for best results)
8. Surface Leveling
9. Use power sander on flat surfaces
10. Use hand sander for chines and keel
11. For drips: Use auto body file to level severe spots
12. Sand until surface is uniformly smooth
13. Note: Dry sand if finish is well-cured; wet sand if finish is fresh

Cleaning Process

1. Vacuum all sanding dust thoroughly
2. Wipe entire surface with paint thinner
3. Allow solvent to fully evaporate before varnishing

Varnishing Technique

Deck Application

1. Start with combing area using small brush
2. Switch to 2-inch foam brush for main surfaces
3. Work in ~1-foot sections
4. Apply in this sequence for each section:
5. Horizontal strokes to apply varnish
6. Vertical strokes to even out
7. Horizontal strokes to tip off
8. Work parallel to feature lines near chines
9. Avoid dragging brush across sharp edges
10. Maintain a wet edge between sections

Hull Application

1. Work in sections between stitch holes
2. Alternate sides every two sections
3. Use three-stroke method:
4. First pass: lay down varnish
5. Second pass: even out (add or remove as needed)
6. Final pass: tip off (remove excess)
7. Be careful around skegs - avoid overflow
8. Pay less attention to keel line (will get scratched with use)

Important Tips

1. Replace sandpaper frequently for best results
2. Save used sandpaper for hand-sanding touch-ups
3. Filter varnish before application
4. Work quickly to maintain wet edge
5. Keep brush strokes parallel to feature lines near edges
6. Don't varnish areas where hardware will be attached (hatch surfaces, etc.)

Quality Considerations

1. This process aims for a good, protective finish
2. Perfect mirror finish requires additional time and effort
3. Focus on UV protection of epoxy
4. Accept that some brush marks may be visible
5. Prioritize even coverage over perfect reflection

Next Steps

After varnish cures:

1. Install bulkheads
2. Mount hatches
3. Install seat
4. Attach foot pegs
5. Complete final hardware installation

Required Materials

1. Epoxy (standard mix for fillets)
2. G/flex epoxy
3. Mill fiber
4. Colloidal silica
5. Graphite powder (optional, for aesthetic purposes)
6. CA glue (for spot welds)
7. Denatured alcohol
8. Masking tape
9. Gland nuts (for skeg cable penetration)
10. C-clamps
11. Pastry bag (for epoxy application)
12. Sandpaper/belt sander
13. Step drill
14. Mallet
15. Wooden pusher tool (2x4 with T-end)
16. Small exam mirror
17. Rags for cleanup

Safety Equipment

1. Appropriate protective gear for working with epoxy
2. Ventilation for working with denatured alcohol

Installing Bulkheads

Preparing the Rear Bulkhead

1. Locate the skeg control slot and tube position
2. Create a hole in the bulkhead corner using a step drill
3. Size the hole to fit the gland nut (approximately 2-3 steps on the step drill)
4. Clean up any excess epoxy on the bulkhead edges

Fitting the Rear Bulkhead

1. Position bulkhead behind the cockpit combing recess
2. Check alignment using stitch holes as reference points
3. Mark areas that need adjustment
4. Sand binding areas until the bulkhead sits square
5. Scuff up the areas where the bulkhead meets the hull
6. Clean scuffed areas with denatured alcohol

Fitting the Front Bulkhead

1. Create a temporary handle on the bulkhead using tape
2. Use a wooden T-pusher tool to position the bulkhead
3. Identify tight spots in chine corners
4. Make gradual adjustments by sanding
5. Test fit and square up using the T-pusher
6. Mark edges for reference
7. Clean with denatured alcohol

Securing Bulkheads

1. Apply spot welds of CA glue to hold bulkheads in position
2. Mix standard epoxy fillet mixture
3. Apply fillet mixture along seams on both sides where accessible
4. Smooth fillets using finger dipped in denatured alcohol
5. Clean any excess epoxy
6. Ensure skeg cable gland nut hole remains clear

Installing Hatch Rings

Surface Preparation

1. Clean unvarnished areas where hatch rings will be mounted
2. Remove any varnish drips
3. Test fit hatch rings in openings
4. Sand edges if needed for proper fit
5. Mark orientation for consistent placement
6. Scuff bottom surface of hatch rings
7. Clean with denatured alcohol
8. Apply masking tape around inner perimeter to catch drips

G/flex Epoxy Preparation

1. Mix G/flex epoxy 1:1 ratio
2. Add mill fiber for strength
3. Add colloidal silica to thicken
4. Optional: Add graphite powder for black color
5. Transfer mixture to pastry bag

Installation

1. Paint unthickened epoxy around edge grain of openings
2. Allow to soak in briefly
3. Apply G/flex mixture around perimeter of openings
4. Place hatch rings in position
5. Secure with C-clamps
6. Use multiple small C-clamps for better distribution
7. Ensure clamps are tight but not overtightened
8. Clean any squeeze-out
9. Allow epoxy to cure completely (approximately 12 hours)

Final Notes

1. Combine bulkhead and hatch ring installation in one epoxy cure cycle when possible
2. Work in a well-ventilated area
3. Temperature affects epoxy cure time - adjust accordingly
4. Keep tools clean and free from epoxy during work

Quality Checks

1. Ensure bulkheads are square
2. Verify hatch rings sit flush
3. Check for complete fillet coverage
4. Confirm all gaps are filled
5. Test gland nut fitment in bulkhead

Required Materials

1. Barge cement or contact cement (with warnings for flammability)
2. Shock cord
3. Webbing
4. 10-32 screws with finish washers and Nylock nuts
5. Hose clamps
6. Heat shrink tubing
7. Hog rings
8. Stainless steel tubing for skeg control

Skeg Installation

1. Prepare Control Cable Tubing:
2. Cut stainless steel tube to 9¼ inches
3. Mark center point at 4⅝ inches
4. Drill small hole at center mark
5. Remove burrs from inside and outside using needle file
6. Test cable movement through tube
7. Install Control Mechanism:
8. Thread cable through control knob
9. Insert cable into tubing
10. Align set screw hole with drilled hole
11. Tighten set screw to secure cable
12. Test movement: fully deployed to fully retracted
13. Connect Skeg Box:
14. Run cable through hull to skeg box
15. Connect to barb fitting
16. Secure with hose clamps
17. Test full range of motion

Hatch Installation

1. Verify Ring Installation:
2. Ensure hatch rings are properly mounted
3. Test hatch cover fit
4. Verify watertight seal

Seat Installation

1. Prepare Seat:
2. Clean surfaces for gluing
3. Apply contact cement to both surfaces
4. Allow to become tacky (nearly dry to touch)
5. Align carefully and press together
6. Position 2 inches in front of backrest
7. Mount Seat:
8. Mark outline in hull
9. Apply contact cement to marked areas
10. Allow to become tacky
11. Press into position
12. Test fit before permanent installation

Foot Peg Installation

1. Mount Foot Pegs:
2. Locate pre-drilled holes 1 inch below shear line
3. Drill through with 3/16" bit
4. Install with quarter-inch pan head screws
5. Position tab end at far point
6. Test adjustment mechanism

Deck Line Installation

1. Prepare Deck Line Loops:
2. Cut webbing into 4-inch pieces
3. Melt ends to prevent fraying
4. Create holes using heated nail or stainless tube
5. Mount with 10-32 screws and finish washers
6. Install Shock Cord:
7. Thread through mounted loops
8. Create water knots for joining ends
9. Use heat shrink tubing and hog rings for connections
10. Install perimeter lines if desired
11. Secure with figure-eight knots

Backrest Installation

1. Prepare Backrest:
2. Thread webbing through four loops
3. Install shock cord through top and bottom loops
4. Tie water knot to secure shock cord
5. Mount Backrest:
6. Install using 10-24 bolts through pre-drilled holes
7. Add washers and nuts on inside
8. Attach webbing to side mount points
9. Adjust tension for comfort

Final Steps

1. Test All Components:
2. Verify skeg operation
3. Check hatch seals
4. Test foot peg adjustment
5. Ensure deck lines are secure
6. Confirm backrest adjustment
7. Final Coating:
8. Apply final varnish coat to bottom
9. Allow to dry completely before use

Safety Notes

1. Ensure all nuts and bolts are properly tightened
2. Double-check all watertight seals
3. Test all moving parts before water use
4. Consider adding perimeter lines for safety
5. Verify all shock cord connections are secure

Maintenance Tips

1. Regularly check shock cord tension
2. Inspect hatch seals for wear
3. Test skeg operation before each use
4. Check foot peg mechanism for smooth operation
5. Verify seat and backrest security

Required Materials

1. Your completed kayak
2. Kayak Paddle (My Instructable for making your own Paddle)
3. Life Jacket/Personal Flotation Device (PFD)
4. Spray Skirt (Optional but a good idea)
5. A Body of Water

Launch Procedure

1. Preparing Your Kayak for Use:
2. Place your kayak down on some grass or other soft surface.
3. Open a hatch and insert lunch or a snack plus some dry clothes in the hatch area.
4. Close the hatch.
5. Sit in the cockpit
6. Adjust your foot pegs so your knees are slightly raised when sitting upright in your seat.
7. Put on your life jacket and spray skirt.
8. Getting in Your Kayak:
9. Place the kayak in water that is about 6" [15cm] deep
10. Place your paddle across the kayak behind your seat
11. Straddle the cockpit
12. Set your butt down in the seat
13. Swing in your legs
14. Hook your spray skirt around the back of the coaming
15. Work the edge of the skirt around the sides up to the front
16. Grab your paddle
17. Paddle Away From Shore:
18. Place your paddle in the water on one side up near your feet, with the blade fully submerged.
19. Pull backward on the paddle.
20. When your hand is beside your hip, remove the paddle from the water on that side and place the other blade in the water on the other side.
21. Repeat this until your are far away from all the worries of shore.
22. Happy Paddling:
23. See cool stuff.
24. Enjoy the Water.
25. Scratch your kayak.

Note: Your kayak is not officially finished until you have scratched it up a bit. Varnish comes in re-sealable cans, you can give it another coat at the end of the season.