Making Loki's Sceptor / Staff From the Avengers
by KyleofAsgard in Living > Halloween
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Making Loki's Sceptor / Staff From the Avengers
Haven't seen a lot of Loki staffs on the net, So I thought Id share how I made mine, that way, you can do the same, or use my same techniques to make something completely different.
If you want to see how to make the main costume, you can follow this link https://www.instructables.com/id/Marvels-Avengers-Loki-Costume/
If you want to see how to make the main costume, you can follow this link https://www.instructables.com/id/Marvels-Avengers-Loki-Costume/
Tools and Materials
For this build you will need:
Rotary Dremel Kit
Detail Sander (you can use general sand paper, this just makes things a lot faster)
Craft/box cutting knife
Basic Sculpting tools
Oscillating multitool
Heat Gun
Hot Glue Gun
Materials.
Builders Bog
EVA foam
Liquid latex or casting silicon
Clear Casting resin
Blue Food coloring or dye
Wood......
Cardboard
Expanding Foam
Plaster Of Paris or casting plaster
Perspex Plastic
Rotary Dremel Kit
Detail Sander (you can use general sand paper, this just makes things a lot faster)
Craft/box cutting knife
Basic Sculpting tools
Oscillating multitool
Heat Gun
Hot Glue Gun
Materials.
Builders Bog
EVA foam
Liquid latex or casting silicon
Clear Casting resin
Blue Food coloring or dye
Wood......
Cardboard
Expanding Foam
Plaster Of Paris or casting plaster
Perspex Plastic
Making Your Stencil.
First thing is first, you have to decide what size you want to make your scepter, You can make your scepter to whatever size, just as long as its the right size for you. If you make your scepter to big or two small, it will be very obvious very quickly.
For this step, I took a simple image that you can find on the net, Placed it into a drawing program, and added a box grid. Once you have a grid, you are able to free hand draw this onto a piece of cardboard to use later.
For this step, I took a simple image that you can find on the net, Placed it into a drawing program, and added a box grid. Once you have a grid, you are able to free hand draw this onto a piece of cardboard to use later.
Making Your Stencil 3D
There are many ways of making your 2D image into 3D.
The scepter template was covered on both sides with "builders expanding foam", from there, a hacksaw blade was used to cut away the excess foam around the edge of the template.
From there you simply need to sand, and shape your foam to the shape you want your finished product to be.
The scepter template was covered on both sides with "builders expanding foam", from there, a hacksaw blade was used to cut away the excess foam around the edge of the template.
From there you simply need to sand, and shape your foam to the shape you want your finished product to be.
Making Your Blades.
The blades of my scepter were constructed from pannels of perspex, you could use wood, perspex, aluminum, steel, whatever you like, just make sure that if you are going to use it for costuming, that you make it safe, noone wants to lose an eye.
How you produce this is completely up to you, for myself it was a mixture of using a rotary dremel, a miniature hand saw, and contact adhesive to build up multiple layers.
How you produce this is completely up to you, for myself it was a mixture of using a rotary dremel, a miniature hand saw, and contact adhesive to build up multiple layers.
Boging the Body
Builders bog is a very popularly used costume/prop makers material, It takes 2 parts, the bog, and the hardner.
Usually for every golfball sized bit of bog you use, you would squeeze a 25mm line of hardner from the tube to mix with the bog.
What you are going to do here is basically cover your entire foam sculpt of your staff in bog, a really easy way of doing this is to wear latex gloves and use your hands, If you dont have gloves, then usually covering your hands in canola oil will do the trick to stop it sticking.
Make sure that you give your model atleast a 3mm thick coat all the way around 'minimal', Ideally if you can make it 4 or 5mm then you will have a stronger finished product after sanding. The cleaner you can put this bog on, the easier detailing will become.
Note, in my picture I did the bog on foam in 2 separate halves, wouldn't recommend that way.
Usually for every golfball sized bit of bog you use, you would squeeze a 25mm line of hardner from the tube to mix with the bog.
What you are going to do here is basically cover your entire foam sculpt of your staff in bog, a really easy way of doing this is to wear latex gloves and use your hands, If you dont have gloves, then usually covering your hands in canola oil will do the trick to stop it sticking.
Make sure that you give your model atleast a 3mm thick coat all the way around 'minimal', Ideally if you can make it 4 or 5mm then you will have a stronger finished product after sanding. The cleaner you can put this bog on, the easier detailing will become.
Note, in my picture I did the bog on foam in 2 separate halves, wouldn't recommend that way.
Making the Staff
This bit is really just up to personal style, I made my staff pole to about 70% accuracy for this.
I simply took a reasonable bit of wood, Cut a slight fat ended ' S ' shape into it with my oscillating multitool.
From there I filleted the edges to give it some curb, And then just sanded it down to give it that rounded smooth shape.
The base of the staff has to be a bit fat to make the staff look balanced, I did this simply buy gluing layers of EVA foam (camping foam mattress) to the base in a fashionable style. Once you are happy with your foam you simple cover it in builders bog.
Lastly you will have to cut a box shape out of the top of your staff, the reason for this? Your staff will go inside the body of the staff head, and this is where you will place your battery pack
I simply took a reasonable bit of wood, Cut a slight fat ended ' S ' shape into it with my oscillating multitool.
From there I filleted the edges to give it some curb, And then just sanded it down to give it that rounded smooth shape.
The base of the staff has to be a bit fat to make the staff look balanced, I did this simply buy gluing layers of EVA foam (camping foam mattress) to the base in a fashionable style. Once you are happy with your foam you simple cover it in builders bog.
Lastly you will have to cut a box shape out of the top of your staff, the reason for this? Your staff will go inside the body of the staff head, and this is where you will place your battery pack
The Orb
Ok, so this parts up to personal style, you can buy glass orbs, crystals, whatever you want for this bit. I personally used whats known as "clear cast resin". It is a resin and a hardener kit that when combined correctly make a clear transparent material.
To make the right shape, I used Plasticine, made the desired shape, sprayed it with canola spray, then coated it in a few layers of liquid latex. The liquid latex is to make a mold for casting the resin.
Once you have made a mold about 4mm thick, you then need to make a 2 part mother mold to make sure it doesnt stretch when you do your casting, I used plaster of paris as this does not to be a fancy casting.
Simply make a border around your latex where the plaster will be cast, layer your plaster, remove Plasticine, and with a piece of gladwrap on the other half, cast your other half of plaster (the gladwrap stops the plaster from sticking to itself).
Now simply open up your plaster mold, remove Plasticine from latex, fit latex back into plaster, and BAM, your ready to pour.
The Clear cast resin is something that is usually very particular about mixing quantities, so make sure regardless of which brand you get that you read the instructions.
Once mixed, by simply adding blue craft dye or food colouring you can color your cast, I used about 5 drops of blue food coloring for mine.
To make the right shape, I used Plasticine, made the desired shape, sprayed it with canola spray, then coated it in a few layers of liquid latex. The liquid latex is to make a mold for casting the resin.
Once you have made a mold about 4mm thick, you then need to make a 2 part mother mold to make sure it doesnt stretch when you do your casting, I used plaster of paris as this does not to be a fancy casting.
Simply make a border around your latex where the plaster will be cast, layer your plaster, remove Plasticine, and with a piece of gladwrap on the other half, cast your other half of plaster (the gladwrap stops the plaster from sticking to itself).
Now simply open up your plaster mold, remove Plasticine from latex, fit latex back into plaster, and BAM, your ready to pour.
The Clear cast resin is something that is usually very particular about mixing quantities, so make sure regardless of which brand you get that you read the instructions.
Once mixed, by simply adding blue craft dye or food colouring you can color your cast, I used about 5 drops of blue food coloring for mine.
Staff Final Details and Fitting It All Together
This bit is really just up to personal preference, from my previous steps you should be able to understand how I did these final steps, and you will be able to adjust/enhance anything you feel needs a bit of a tune up :D
And Now the Finishing Paint :D
The paint part of this was simple, I coated the entire thing (except the orb) in metallic gold spray paint, then with some masking tape help, sprayed the bladed areas in metallic silver, then distressed it with black acrylic paint on a dry brush, befor giving it a spray of plastic clear coat for protection.