Make Your Heavy Bandsaw Mobile

I have a "Tool Wall" lined with my power tools. I don't often need my bandsaw to be mobile but when I do, Boy would it be handy.

In this Instructable, I will show how I gave my bandsaw wheels.

A bandsaw or really whatever tool you want mobile

2x4s, 2x3s, and/or other scrap wood

Hardware: Screws, bolts, nuts, washers, hinges (x2)

Casters

Marking tools (ruler, tape measurer, pencil, etc.)

Drill and bits

Saws, i.e. miter, table, circ, etc.

Clamps

Punch & hammer

Screwdrivers

Here is a video of me going through the motions and problem solving until the thing works!

My idea was simply to bolt two 2x4s on the front and two on the back, place casters on the bottom close enough to the floor so that when the back casters are engaged, it would also engage the front ones (pic 1).

Most bandsaw stands have four legs, slightly angled but oh no... not mine. Mine has the motor mounted on an additional shelf a few inches off the ground. This definitely threw a wrench in the spokes. After a couple work arounds, the basic concept is still the same but some challenges needed to be rectified.

My initial though was to make a cardboard template marking the legs on one side and the distance between the two (pics 2-3). This would ultimately make my 2x4 fit very snug. After making one template, I thought, "Self, why are you making things harder on you? Just mark the angle of the legs and follow the original plan!"

So that is what I did.

I shifted from a side-to-side layout to a front-and-back layout (pic 1).

I cut a 2x3 down to size for insertion into the inside of the back of the lower bandsaw shelf (pic 2-4). I had to use a 2x3 because a 2x4 would have interfered with the pulley of the mounted motor. Furthermore, I had to cut a notch out where the motor is mounted to the shelf (pics 5-7).

For the outside 2x4 to be mounted on the bottom, I noted the angle of my bandsaw stand legs (7-degrees), marked the 2x4, and cut it on my miter saw. I then did the same for the front outside 2x4 (pic 8-10).

The difference with the front is that I mounted a 2x4 on the bottom of the shelf to lower to meet the floor when the back casters are engaged. The spacing made more sense that way.

But I needed to get the applicable hardware and that is where JLCMC.com came in (pic 11-13). JLCMC.com provides specialized automation and industrial manufacturing components that can be standard or customizable. These can cater to those with small business, DIY/hobbyists (such as myself). Their products are high-quality, cost-effective, and their shipping is, in my opinion, quick. I think I waited less than a week to get through customs! They have a myriad of components that cater to the hobbyist, 3d print enthusiast, or mechanic. Check out their website and you can get custom pieces/parts like I did. Their website is very intuitive to navigate to the specific component you need for your project.

With the two boards cut and ready to go, I marked where the bolts will drive and drilled the 2x4 and the applicable section of the front of the metal lower shelf (pic 1-4). I attached them to the first 2x4 and drilled holes where the bottom 2x4 will mount (pic 5). There was a lip on the lower shelf (obviously) and it had pre-drilled holes, two of which were where the motor shelf was mounted (specifically seen in pic 8). I removed those bolts and attached wood screws for the bottom shelf. Later, I drilled two additional holes for the two 2x4s to mount together for added rigidity.

Next, I had to mark, drill, and screw the front casters to the 2x4s. I don't know if the frame was bent slightly, but the front left caster engages as intended. The right one is still verrrrrrry slightly floating in space and needed a little tweak to engage appropriately (pic 9-12).

The back casters follow the same process: two 2x4s were mounted with bolts but the gap between the two caused it to fold up like a triangle when tightened (pic 1).

I made 1cm spacers to circumvent that and remounted the bolts (pic 2-3). After, I mounted a fifth 2x4 with hinges in order to "engage" the full mechanism (pic 4-6). Speaking of engaging, I cut out a "latch" on the bandsaw (pic 7-8) so that when it isn't engaged, the casters float in the front and hinge up in the back (pic 9-10). When in the engage position, the back hinges pivot the entire set of casters to move the bandsaw.

I started with the mounting on the side of the apparatus and when I tried to engage it with the latch, it barely worked. It did help a lot since this thing is Really heavy, however, I needed to swap the hinges from the side to the bottom (pic 11-12).

Now that that was adjusted, the latch no longer engaged so I cut a piece of recycled Polypropylene to help engage the latch again (pic 13-14).

Ugh...problem solving, it's definitely something.

Finally, to keep the lever in the Engage Position, I added a latch (pic 15).

After several iterations, I finally have movement. Trust me when I say that some movement is a vast improvement to no movement. At times, looking at YT, magazines, wood working forums, etc. makes things really simplified and when you go to execute, you may hit some roadblocks. Discouraging as it may be, persevering is key and eventually you get an "Aha" moment to get things moving again (pun intended)!

Hopefully this helps you out to get some mobility in the shop and keep your backs from aching. Join me for my next one and thanks for your time!