Live Moss Name Plate

Hi all,

This idea has been on my mind for a long time, ever since I first saw a moss wall art. It seemed so easy and affordable to make, yet so unique and beautiful. The materials were all readily available, and there were plenty of tutorials online. But there was one thing that always disappointed me: most of them used fake moss. Even though the end results looked good, I just couldn’t get past the fact that it wasn’t real. So I made up my mind to make one using live moss instead. My initial idea was to create a portrait or silhouette-style moss artwork.

But then, I decided to make a simple name plate first, it would be a good practice before any complex moss art.One of my friend owns a plant nursery called VARNAM(varnam means colours in Malayalam).so I decided to make a nameplate for him. It would be something totally unique and definitely a conversation starter for his customers. Plus, since he’s already into plants, he’d know exactly how to take care of it.

I live in Kerala, where moss is everywhere during the rain season, they grow naturally on tree trunks, rocks, and the ground. But I noticed one particular type that thrives on cement surfaces—like rooftops, electric poles, and compound walls. For example, my own roof gets completely covered in moss during the monsoon season. It dries out in the summer, but as soon as the rain s return, it bursts back into lush green life.

That observation helped me understand something important: this type of moss really loves rough cement surfaces, especially those exposed to good light and where there’s no much competition from other plants. That’s when I decided the base for the moss to grow should be concrete

Multiwood 19x5 Inch 12 mm thickness

Aluminium Wire 2.5 mm Diameter

Silicon Glue

Super Glue

Metal Wire Mesh

Cement and Sand

Hack Saw

Coloured Sand(optional)

The first step was deciding what type of material to use to write the name on.making the whole structure with cement would make it heavy and the moss will spread out easily so I ended up going with multiwood. I wanted something that’s strong but lightweight,. Multiwood fit that need perfectly.

I used 19x5 long multiwood piece and its thickness is 12mm

Next, I had to get the name on the board. Since I was going for a nameplate, I hand-drew the name directly onto the board using a pencil. If it had been a more detailed design—like a logo, image, or silhouette—I would have simply printed it out on paper, glued the printout onto the board, and used that as a cutting guide.

With the layout done, it was time for the hardest part,cutting out the letters.

The goal here was to cut through the board so that the letters would be fully hollow, leaving behind a stencil-style outline of the text. That way, I could later fill the hollowed-out spaces with cement.

Now, this is where it gets tricky. Letters like A, R, B, D, etc., have inner pieces that come out completely during cutting. Make sure to keep those cutouts safely aside, as we’ll need to glue them back in place later on to complete the look.

Ideally, this step would be done using a router, jigsaw, or similar cutting tool,it would make things much easier and the cuts cleaner. But I didn’t have any of those, so I used a paper knife (utility blade). It took a lot more effort and patience, and honestly, the cuts weren’t perfect. But it got the job done, and I was fine with the slight imperfections

Once the cutting was done, it was time to give the letters structure and a slight projection on its edges. I decided to frame the edges of each letter with aluminium wire. This served two purposes:

It gave the letters a nice metallic border. and It also helps keep the live moss in place, acting like a tiny retaining wall around each letter.

For this, I used aluminium wire and super glue.The wire has 2.5 mm of diameter

Before gluing the wire Clean it using sandpaper to remove dirt or grease, This improves adhesion when gluing.

Bend the wire carefully to match the curves and angles of each letter. I did this by holding one end tightly and slowly shaping it around the letter outline.by doing so you will get an idea of how long the wire need to be,cut it using cutting plier before gluing

Gluing the Wire

Start by placing one end of the wire at a fixed point on the letter.

Glue a small section at a time—don’t try to glue the whole wire in one go.

After applying glue to one part, hold it for about a minute until it sets.

Continue along the letter in sections until the entire outline is done.

Repeat this process for every single letter, including the loose inner pieces we saved earlier (like the middle triangle in an "A"). Cut and shape wire for those parts too and glue them back in their correct positions.

Once the wiring is done and the glue has fully dried, you’ll have a strong, defined letter structure that’s ready to be filled with cement.

The next step was to pour the cement layer. Instead of filling just the letters, I decided to create a full bottom layer of concrete. A thicker base, I figured, would help retain more moisture. To reinforce this layer, I used wire mesh, cutting it precisely to the size of the board to ensure even support throughout.

For the mold, although multiwood is typically preferred, I repurposed some similarly sized plywood pieces I already had. I used multiwood strips for the mold’s sides and placed them on a smooth, flat surface—specifically, a floor tile.

Once all four sides were aligned properly, I secured them in place with hot glue instead of screws. Applying hot glue along all joints and edges helps prevent cement from leaking out. If you're planning to try this yourself, I recommend using a mold release agent before pouring the concrete. I skipped this step, and as a result, I had to break the tile to release the finished plate.

Next, I attached the wire mesh to the multiwood stencil using a stapler. I pressed the stapler directly onto the multiwood or you can just simply use super glue to stick the mesh.I placed a staple every 5 cm. Then, I carefully positioned the fully cured letter parts onto the mesh and used super glue to fix them in place. You can also use screws if you prefer a stronger hold.

Once the mold and stencil were ready, I mixed the concrete using 1 part white cement (though regular cement also works), 1 part river sand, and just enough water to reach a thick, honey-like consistency. I poured about a 10 mm thick layer of this mix into the mold and gently placed the board with the mesh on top.

I tapped the board lightly to help it settle and release any trapped air. As it settled, the concrete began to rise through the letter cutouts. I aimed to keep this bottom layer about 5 mm below the top edge of the wire mesh frame.

After letting it dry for a day, I removed it from the mold. I then cleaned off any excess cement and carefully trimmed the edges. I polished the wire borders using sandpaper,but be careful not to apply too much force, as this can cause the super glue to come loose. Go slow and steady. Lastly, I roughed up the cement surface inside the stencil area to improve adhesion for the moss layer.

Adding the Moss

Now comes the most satisfying part of the entire project,bringing the design to life with real moss.

I collected the moss from my rooftop, which is sort of like a tiny moss forest. I am not sure abbot the species of this moss but google lens says its probably Funaria hygrometrica or PhyscomitrellaYou might find moss growing in shaded, damp areas like walls,sidewalks or garden corners. Try to harvest from a spot that gets indirect sunlight.those patches tend to be more vibrant and lush.

Use a flat scraper and gently slide it underneath the moss and lift to harvest it.try to get as big as big as possible. Avoid cutting or pulling just the green surface layer. Instead, aim to scrape from the bottom, collecting the moss along with its brown, spongy base.This lower part is mostly dead old moss, but it’s actually very useful it acts like a natural water reservoir and even offers some slow fertilization as it breaks down.

Try to collect the greenest, thickest moss patches you can find because they’ll be the healthiest and best suited for our use

Gravel Decoration on the Multiwood(optional)

Before placing the moss, I decided to add a bit of decorative texture to the front surface of the multiwood using coloured aquarium gravel. but if I am doing a second one in future I might skip this step or experiment with different materials and colours. The black-and-green combination didn’t turn out as good as I expected. But for a first attempt, it was still fun to try.

Here’s how I did it:

Dab small amounts of silicone glue randomly over the visible multiwood areas (i.e., not inside the cement-filled letters).Its important to use silicon glue since its water resistant so that when we spray water on the moss it wont damage the decor

Use your finger, or plastic card to smooth the glue into a thin, even layer.

Sprinkle the Coloured gravel generously over the glued areas, making sure every spot is covered.

You can gently press the sand down to help it bond better

Let the glue dry for at least 24 hours. Once dry, flip the board upside down and lightly tap it to remove excess sand. The sand will stay only where glue was applied, leaving a textured finish. If you want to skip this part, just paint the surface for a cleaner look. Or experiment with fine gravel, sand, or even dried leaves for different look

Using scissors or your hands, tear or cut the moss into small pieces slightly wider than the width of the letters.

The extra width helps create a full, slightly spills over the edges look. By this point,cement layer inside the letters should be dry and roughened slightly (using sandpaper or scraping), which helps the moss grip better.

Gently press the moss pieces into the letter cavities, starting from one end and working your way across.Use your fingers, or a tweezer to tuck the moss neatly into corners and edges.

The moss should feel snug but not compressed you want it to stay slightly fluffy.Make sure the moss has a good contact with the cement layer. Use scissors to trim any overgrown areas for a clean look, or leave them a little wild for a more natural look.

Next step was to make a stand for the board I was not sure if he was going to keep it on the table or hang it somewhere so I ended up making a simple stand for it , I used same aluminium wire for this bend the wire as shown in the above picture its really easy to make. there is nothing to explain here and no need to have the exact dimension. If possible its recommended to use more thicker wire for this. I made two identical pieces for this, and the board is placed on it as in the photo. I admit the stand looks ugly but I was on a tight time frame and this one did the job perfectly

Watering and Maintenance

Once your moss is placed, it’ll need consistent moisture and good amount of light to stay green and healthy, there is no need to fertilize it just water it regularly. Its recommended to keep it near a window or any well lit area

its all done now, for a concept to project this was perfect for me, I would probably make a silhouette photo next, and I will definitely make an instructables also

Thankyou...