Lasercut Speaker Cabinet

Bored by Box Style Speakers?

Let's try to make some curved shapes with a laser cutter.

For this project I will be using a TangBand W3 full range speaker. This has an outer diameter of 93mm and a cutout diameter of 75. These measures can usually be found in the data sheet of that chassis. The W3 speakers come in a bunch of different styles and quality, all these should fit: W3-1318, W3-1231, W3-1319, W3-1364, W3-2141, W3-1878 TangBand Speakers: tb-speaker.com

The design is a closed box, that means the low frequency range will be very precise but not very strong. So they are great with a small subwoofer or with an EQ to push the low end a little.

What is the speaker like...

• Beautiful small speaker for music lovers.
• The better computer/phone speaker.

What this speaker is not...

• A party box. Not made for high loudness.

• Plywood 6mm thick
• Access to a Laser cutter or a Laser cutting service.
• Wood Clue
• Towels
• Drill (4mm)
• Sanding Paper and block
• Wood Oil/Wax finish stuff.

Files

As attachment you can find DXF files for the box with 6mm thick material for the W3 chassis. "AllParts.dxf" every part in quantity 1, for use with deepnest. "AllLayouted.dxf" the result of my deepnest run, an a sheet 700x500mm

LaserCut it

Check with your next makerspace or production service... e.g. https://www.makerspace-darmstadt.de .. cheers!

Import the provided file. You can arrange the parts to fit your material. Set the MB logo to engrave, or change it to something else.

Make some small test objects to find out the optimal speed and power settings. There is a lot of cutting in this project, so optimization really helps to speed it up.

When you made it this far you will be facing a pile of wooden pieces :)

The idea is to assemble the inner "stabelizer" first, take your time to get it into an exact 90deg angle. Here I fixated the assembly with rubber bands. I also sticked 4 of the longer bow pieces to the edges which will ensure the correct 90deg angle.

Now you can start puzzling the curved parts around the stabilizer. I start from the top, so I have the bottom open in the end to install the cables and connectors.

Remark: Better use more glue when too less. It is important to get everything airtight and sealed. Clue should squeeze out the seam a little, this can be wiped off with fingers or paper towel.

Start by inserting the food sticks into the small holes in the top/bottom part.

Then clue on the stabilizer together with one round of bows. The bows are guided by the food sticks, move everything a little to get it nicely centered on the top/bottom.

Continue with more rows, change the symmetry on each row. After each row, apply some pressure. After a view rows make a break, check everything and apply some more pressure (use clamps)

You can also clue the front on the bottom part and start puzzling from there. I added the two inner front peaces after being half way through, these add a bit more stability. The front peace was the last to be added. It can help to sand the edges of the fronts to make them fit easier. The inner front has cutouts for M4 nuts, clue them in now.

At some point between half way fully through, add the connectors and cables. Make a test run to ensure the connections work.

When close the body with the top/bottom part.

Apply more pressure, using clamps, let it try for an hour or so.

Finish

After assembly might be a good time to sand the burn marks down. You can sand these of completely or leave some to get that smoky look.

Check

Insert the chassis, get some kick drum tunes. Listen for distortions, whistling and noise. Go around the box with your ears, you can feel when their is air getting through any cracks or holes. If you find some, try to press some more clue in to it. Rub of spare clue, let it dry. Check again. Sand it again.

Finish 2

Add some Oil/wax stuff for a nicer look and for conservation.

Finally Done !