Large Puzzle Table With 6 Drawer Storage, Folding Legs

My daughter loves to do puzzles. She started at a very young age and progressed to larger and larger sizes. Her standard folding card table was always too small for her larger puzzles. This would lead to her engineering her own larger table with pieces of cardboard and propping it up with umbrellas, books, or whatever else she could find. While this worked, it was always a dangerous balancing game, never knowing when the assembly would topple over. Having a puzzle table with sorting and storage drawers would enhance the puzzle experience.

I looked on Amazon, and Googled, but everywhere seemed to max out around 24x36 inches, or nearly $1000 for something larger. Time to build my own design.

I used a 3D software to design the layout and came up with this list of parts needed. I tend to "over engineer" things, making them larger or stronger than they need to be. This makes them often heavier. In this case, I tried to make it lighter for a smaller person to be able to manage on their own. Things had to be adjusted as it was built, so these may not be the final dimensions. Sometimes, you start with an idea, try to plan, but it all goes sideways and you make do the best you can to overcome the failings in your plan. All dimensions are Imperial (USA). I have included two STL files, which you can use to get a better idea of where the parts go and measurements (one completed, one with the top up and drawers outward).

Design goals were:

- Large puzzle area

- Reversible top (thin edge vs deep edge, possible surface texture differences)

- Removable storage drawers

- Collapsible (for storage in closet or under bed)

Pine

1. Top
2. 1 3'11"x2'11" sheet 1/4 (3/16)

1. Top outer frame
2. 2@ 1x2   2'10"
3. 2@ 1x2   3'7.5"
4. 4@ 1x2   1'1"

1. Center layer frame
2. 1@ 1x3   3'8.5"
3. 2@ 1x3   1'0.75"
4. 2@ 1x3   1'3.25"
5. 4@ 1x3   1'3.375"

1. Bottom layer frame
2. 1@ 1x3   3'5.5"
3. 2@ 1x2   3'5.5"
4. 2@ 1x2   2'7.5"

1. Legs
2. 2@ 1x3   2'10"
3. 4@ 1x3   2'5"
4. 4@ 1x3   1'8" angled

1. Drawers
2. 4@ 1x2   1'2.375" 45 grooved (45g)
3. 4@ 1x2   1'0.625" 45g
4. 2@ 11.625"x1'1.25" sheet      

1. 4@ 1x2   1'2.75" 45g
2. 4@ 1x2   1'3.25" 45g
3. 2@ 1'1.75"x1'2.25" sheet

1. 4@ 1x2   1'3.125" 45g
2. 4@ 1x2   1'2.375" 45g
3. 2@ 1'2.125"x1'1.375"

Oak Trim

1. 2@ 1x2   4' 45 grooved
2. 2@ 1x2   3' 45g

Other parts

1. Wood glue
2. Magnets
3. Drawer knobs
4. 4 1/2x1/8 aluminum flat stock
5. 1/4-20 bolts, various lengths with nuts and flat washers
6. 1/4 fender washers (large oversize)
7. 1/4 T-Nuts (wood insert nuts)
8. Thumb knobs (3D printed or purchased)
9. Brads or staples for your staple gun
10. Various wood screws
11. 1 pine dowel, the diameter of your magnets

Tools

1. Safety glasses
2. Hearing protection
3. Tape measure
4. Pencil
5. Table saw (or improvised Circular saw)
6. Miter saw (or hand version miter box)
7. Nail/Staple gun (air or electric)
8. Router (table is best)
9. Drill with various bits (wood and metal)
10. Spade bits (or Forstner) for magnet holes
11. 3D printer (optional)
12. Utility knife
13. Chisels
14. Hammer
15. Screwdriver or power drill
16. Jigsaw or scroll saw

The initial design size for the open puzzle top is 3x4 feet (36x48 inches). Not wanting to purchase and transport a full 4x8 sheet of thin plywood on the roof of my car, I opted for a 4x4 and 4x2 pieces that would fit inside. This reduced the final top size to 35x47 inches, then the trim around the edge slightly reduces that size as well. Still larger than most puzzle tables and able to fit some great puzzles! There are six drawers, two each of three sizes, so they only fit in certain locations.

Cut all plywood and lumber. Start construction with the "center layer" pieces. This is the central spine of the long direction, with ribs coming off of it. Drawer sizes were calculated so that the ribs could be joined from the opposite side without overlap, thus eliminating having to worry about some fancy joinery. Long ends were notched 3/4" on the long ends for the top layer to be mounted more securely. Glue and fasten (nail/staple) the ribs to the spine. Add the "bottom layer" with glue and fasteners. The bottom layer is basically the slides for the drawers. Add the "top layer" frame, glue and fasten. This ended up being smaller than I intended, so I added another strip of 3/4" material all the way around the outer perimeter of the top frame.

The drawers can be used for sorting pieces and storage. They are completely removable and do not have any slides or lubricated rails that could get messy. You should have 24 pieces of mitered and slotted 1x2 lumber for the drawers. At the time of this build, I did not own a table saw, so I improvised by attaching my Circular saw to a piece of scrap and mounting it upside down on my workbench (Danger Will Robinson!!). The slots were cut approximately 1/4" deep and required a couple passes at different offsets.

Since any table can be moved or bumped, and the drawers do not have slides, we need something to keep them in place. I opted to recycle some of my salvaged hard drive magnets to keep the drawers locked in when closed. Using a spade bit, drill a hole in the back of the drawer from the inside, but not all the way through, leaving about 1/8" of wood intact. This will mostly hide the magnet from the outside, when the drawers are moved about for storage and sorting. Insert a magnet (any direction/polarity), and assemble each drawer, adding glue and fasteners.

Once the drawers are assembled and dried, we can figure out where to attach the opposite magnet to keep them in place. If your magnets are strong enough, they will essentially self align. Place a drawer in the correct location, and place another magnet opposite the backstop. This should auto-center and show you where to drill your new magnet hole in the frame. Again, do not drill all the way through the lumber, leave some wood intact. Insert the magnet. Cut a thin slice of the wooden dowel to insert into the hole to cover the magnet. Glue in place, and sand down smooth after the glue dries.

The legs are comprised of some 1x3 and hinged with a bolt at the top. Each one of the long end comprises of two legs, a 90 degree cross member, and two diagonal supports. The two diagonal supports are joined to the cross member with a puzzle plate and screws. The puzzle plate is then covered with another thin piece of plywood to cover the screws. Each set of legs is supported by two pieces of flat aluminum stock, held in place with thumb nuts that were 3D printed (same as my telescope knobs, I love repurposing).

The legs are offset of each other so when they fold under, one will be inside and one will be outside.

The top is a single piece of plywood with an oak frame. The wood is slotted for the top piece and rounded with a table router on the corners. The slot is offset and not centered, thus giving a deep and shallow option by flipping the top over. Corners are held in with recessed screws (invisible head, but you can see them). Add knobs/handles to all the drawers.

Finish it

The puzzle table is currently in use, so finishing it will likely happen in the future. Putty the holes and nails, sand, and finish. Probably a natural or cherry stain and clear coat.