LEGO Minifigure Fabric Gown

Little me once lamented for my lack of “girl LEGO” minifigures. Their scarcity led me to manufacturing my own maidens using Sharpies for hairstyles and cut-up Polly Pocket hats for skirts. This tutorial is a tribute to those times of old, and my brother collector’s tolerant heart of gold.

Pattern made by temporarily putty-tacking parchment paper on a torso and making sharpie size markings.  The mock-up was then stuck and scored onto card stock and retested for fit.  

Shall you be our gownmaking guest? This tutorial dress was my first test. Apologies for being rusty, hope my memory is still trusty, these pictures are from autumn 2021. 

Tools/supplies:

Small fabric scissors.

Pins and basic hand sewing needle, one beading needle.

Disappearing/washable ink fabric marker.

Permanent glue stick.

Assorted seed beads and sequins. 

Tea and teacakes (Absolutely optional, but an aid in inspiring a storybook aesthetic!). 

Thread: 

Polyester sewing machine thread in a color to match outer gown material.

#69 Bonded Nylon/Tex 70 thread or thick upholstery thread for attaching beads. I used tan. 

Fabric needed:

Small swatch of stretch lycra lace for outer gown (aqua in tutorial).

An even smaller swatch of sheer stretch mesh fabric for lining (white in tutorial). Non-stretch would likely work as well, though I have not yet tried it. 

A small scrap of firm (non-stretch) lace for underskirt (yellow in tutorial).

Stitches used: 

Hand back stitch. 

Blanket stitch.

Whip stitch.

The measurements are in US customary units.

For personal/non-commercial use only, please.

CB=center front. CF=center back.

Print the 1 page pattern/ on regular paper. Hand drawn roughness, tidied up a bit with edits. I’ve posted this updated/refined version of the pattern that removes the excess back fabric prior to construction, if desired. Tutorial is unchanged if update is used, except for the “torso end mark” becoming the actual cut edge of the dress back. Just skip the “torso end mark” trimming-off step and disregard torso end mark references.

  Make sure the 1” scaling sample measurement is true to size. Print & cut paper pattern pieces out.

First, outline the bodice pattern template onto the sheer mesh fabric with fabric marker. Cut out with tiny scissors and apply glue stick to underside. Paste to the wrong side of your outer gown lycra, using the paper pattern as position guide. Outline the shape and snip off the sheer mesh tie extensions at the indicated marks.

Cut outer fabric slightly bigger than the sheer mesh. Mark the torso end marks on both sides. Paste and fold the top fabric extension into a tiny seam allowance/edge. Paste the U shaped area into straps. Let dry.

 Place on armless minifig and pin the “straps” together down to the torso end marks to create a center back connection. Leave pinned for now.

Mark the center back on the bodice to indicate back tie beginnings. Trim approximately ⅛” off the bottom starting at these marks. Paste up into tie shape and paste the small seam allowance at the center back torso marks, as shown.

Cut out the over skirt from outer gown lycra.  Cut the firm lace underskirt and mark center dot. Paste up the included seam allowance. Make a temporary thread knot stitch to secure center front of skirt together. Pin onto lace underskirt later, aligning at center dot. Paste layers together with a tiny, thin line of glue stick at top. Let dry.

Hand sew a tiny running stitch along the top edge, pull thread to gather to the bodice width. Knot to secure. 

Place dots along the bottom of the sheer mesh on the back of the bodice piece, allowing ink to soak through to the front. Connect the dots into a line and mark the dress center front.

Pin skirt onto bodice, aligning at centers.

Hand sew along sheer lycra endpoint using a tiny back stitch.

Trim off as much bulk as safely possible. Unpin straps.

Whip stitch the skirt seam allowance, puncturing/passing through to the outer bodice layer. This will help it lie flat. Finger press down to the lace underskirt. Place a piece of tape on strap marks where formerly pinned. This will aid in holding during sewing. 

Hem the overskirt with a tiny whip stitch and knot off. Make an knot at the end of one tie and sew a blanket stitch down it to finish and join seam allowances together.

Whip stitch seam allowances on the torso side and strap edges. Untape straps and whip stitch center back together, start at strap end mark and end at the torso end mark.

 Cut off all fabric beyond the torso end mark.  Fold and paste up the raw edges of the torso back and whip stitch. Finish whip stitching the strap and torso side edges on the other side. Knot off. Test fit on minifigure.

Mark desired bead placement points on the gown outer. Switch to a beading needle and sew on with upholstery thread and a back stitch. Tie off and wait for fabric ink to disappear/or wipe it off.

Dress your minifigure and tie in back as shown.

Your minifigure may now be crowned the belle of the builders. 

Best wishes!

Thanks to the BZPower fan site for their generous LEGO giveaways, for this model doll who motivated it all!

My royally rough base/sloper pattern for designing your own patterns, if desired!