Kid-Sized DIY Foosball Table

Building this foosball table is a rewarding project that offers a fantastic opportunity to learn new skills in woodworking, 3D printing, metalworking, and assembly. While it may not be significantly cheaper than buying a ready-made one, the true value lies in the shared experience of building it yourself. This project is more than just creating a game; it's about spending quality time with your family and creating lasting memories.

It's a great activity to involve your kids in. From sanding and gluing to painting and assembling, there are many stages where they can contribute and feel a sense of ownership. This not only teaches them practical skills but also fosters teamwork and a sense of accomplishment. The scaled-down (80%) design is perfect for younger players, making it easier for them to reach the handles and fully enjoy the game. The robust construction and premium feel ensures it can withstand plenty of enthusiastic gameplay, guaranteeing years of fun.

This Instructable provides a solid foundation, guiding you through each step of the process. However, don't be afraid to customize it further – you could add custom paint jobs, personalized player figures, or even integrated lighting. The possibilities are endless! This project is about creating something unique and special that reflects your family's style and preferences.

So, if you're ready to embark on a fun and engaging project with your family, create a unique piece of furniture, and enjoy countless hours of foosball fun, let's get started!

If you want to do modifications to the 3D parts the source "code" can be found on GitHub!

The following supplies are needed:

1. Wood: 3-layer board 19mm (from your local supplier)
2. 2x Leg-Crossbar-Board:
3. 0.050m X 0.582m X 19mm
4. 4x Ball-Box-Board A:
5. 0.100m X 0.221m X 19mm
6. 2x Ball-Box-Board B:
7. 0.100m X 0.240m X 19mm
8. 4x Leg-Short-Board:
9. 0.100m X 0.724m X 19mm
10. 4x Leg-Long-Board:
11. 0.100m X 0.844m X 19mm
12. 2x Shelf-Board:
13. 0.138m X 0.544m X 19mm
14. 4x Goal-Board & Ball-Release-Board:
15. 0.221m X 0.544m X 19mm
16. 1x Play-Field-Board:
17. 0.960m X 0.544m X 19mm
18. 2x Side-Board:
19. 1.236m X 0.240m X 19mm
20. ~200x Wood dowel: (Amazon)
21. Ø6mm X 30mm
22. 8x Iron rod:
23. I used stainless steel with 2mm wall thickness (Amazon).
24. The rods must have a smooth surface!
25. Ø16mm X 1m (for exact lengths see Step 17)
26. 34x M3 screws:
27. 30mm with countersunk head
28. 34x M3 nuts
29. 4x M10 screws
30. 45mm (or a bit longer)
31. 4x M10 nuts
32. 8x M10 washers
33. ~200x Wood screws (from your local supplier)
34. Ø3mm X 20mm countersunk head (15mm also works)
35. 4x Wood screws (from your local supplier)
36. Ø4mm X 40mm countersunk head (35mm also works)
37. Plenty of wood glue (Amazon)
38. Foosball table shock buffer (Amazon)
39. You can also try to print them. But I did not have any flexible filament available.
40. Some balls to play with (Amazon)
41. PLA filament for the 3d prints (from your trusted supplier)
42. 2kg green
43. 1kg white
44. 1kg red
45. 1kg blue
46. ~5g Superglue
47. Grease-based lubricant for the rods

Total cost for me was approximately €330! This isn't significantly cheaper than a good foosball table ... However, it's fun to build and feels premium to play. You can also build it together with your children!

The following tools are needed:

1. [Cordless] screwdriver/drill with various drill bits (including 6mm and 10mm wood drill bits).
2. 3mm cobalt drill bit for drilling the stainless steel rods. (Amazon)
3. WD-40 or something else to cool the drill during drilling.
4. 90° countersunk drill to deburr drilled holes (3mm metal and 6mm wood holes)
5. Jigsaw with a wood blade
6. Hacksaw
7. 3D printer with at least 256mmx256mmx200mm build volume
8. 25mm and 40mm Forstner drill bits (Amazon) (using a drill press is recommended, but you can also use a 3D-printed drilling aid)
9. Rubber mallet
10. Metal rasps
11. Wrench to tighten the M10 nuts
12. Some bar clamps
13. Fine sand paper

I added all the parts you need to print to this step. I have a Bambu Lab A1 and I also added the project files I used to print the parts if you also happen to have one :-) It took me approximately 100 hours to print everything. It's a big project!

You can also find this on MakerWorkd to started the prints from your phone!

Some parts require increased strength settings:

1. In "red/blue_2" all parts: 80% infill and 4 wall lines
2. In "red/blue_3" all parts: 80% infill and 6 wall lines
3. In "red/blue_5" only the rod: 80% infill
4. In "red/blue_6" all parts: 80% infill and 4 wall lines

Ordering the parts is also an option, but it can be expensive.

These helpers can be adjusted to your needs, or you can print them as is.

1. helper_1: This is used to drill the holes for the wood dowel into the wood edges.
2. helper_2: This is used to transfer the edge holes for the wood dowel to the wood face. (Don't worry, there will be pictures.)
3. helper_3: This is used to drill orthogonally without a drill press.
4. helper_4: This can be used to make the 25mm holes orthogonal into the wood without a drill press. This needs to be adjusted to fit your Forstner bit.
5. helper_5: This can be used to make the 40mm holes orthogonal into the wood without a drill press. This needs to be adjusted to fit your Forstner bit.
6. helper_6: This can be used to mark the positions of the wood dowels on the wood edges.
7. helper_7: This can be used for alignment when gluing the 3D printed ball throw-in parts together. (Don't worry, there will be pictures)
8. helper_8: This can be used to align the rod bearings vertically.
9. helper_9 and helper_10: These will be useful when drilling the rods. More infos in step 17.

I would recommend to print helper_9 and helper_10 with 80% infill and 6 outer lines and print them at least twice, because they will be used for metalwork, they will be under significant stress and may melt or break.

To adjust the helper files to fit your needs, you need to install OpenSCAD and download and modify the source file.

You can view the animation to get an overview of what needs to be done and how things fit together.

An exploded drawing is also included to illustrate how the wood parts connect. The parts are color coded and the same colors are used in the next step.

Transfer the measurements onto the wood by marking according to the drawings. All measurements are in mm!

Two parts have a front and back so look out for that distinction!

Try to be as exact as possible as errors can accumulate and in the end everything will not fit together.

Be careful to drill holes only in edges that connect to other wood faces. If you are not 100% sure take a longer look at the exploded drawing again.

Ensure the holes are centered on the edge to avoid problems later. To ensure this you can just use helper_1!

For all edges (except the Play-Field-Board) use 50mm distance between holes and 20mm from the corners. For the larger Play-Field-Board use 100mm(between)/20mm(corners). You can use helper_6 for the markings. But don't worry the distances do not need to be exact. We will transfer them to the corresponding wood faces in the next step.

Drill to a depth of approximately 18mm. This can also be achieved using helper_1 by adjusting the drill mounting position so the drill bit protrudes 18mm through the helper.

Connect the drilled edges with the corresponding faces as shown in the image, and then use printed helper_2 tool to drill the corresponding holes on the wood faces.

Number each pair to avoid confusion during assembly.

Drill to approximately 14mm deep to avoid penetrating the wood.

To ensure flush connections between the wood parts, deburr all drill holes with a 90° countersink bit.

Use a drill press if possible to drill holes in the corners of the cutouts. If you do not have a drill press you can use helper_3 to get an orthogonal hole.

Then use the jigsaw to cut out the full hole.

The cutouts can be slightly larger (1-2mm) as they will be covered by the 3D-printed parts. But you will run into problems if they are smaller. Once you are done printing, just check if the parts fit :-)

For the Leg-Short-Board the hole should be somewhat in the middle but the exact position does not matter much; however, make sure all Leg-Short-Board holes are in the same spot. I made a cardboard template as shown in the pictures to make this task easier.

When using the jigsaw, ensure the work piece is securely clamped and that the cord is out of the cutting path. Use a steady hand and follow the marked lines carefully.

Use a drill press to drill the 25mm and 40mm holes with the corresponding Forstner bits on the Side-Boards. Make sure to clamp down the wood to ensure an accurate hole.I recommend drilling partway through from one side and then completing the hole from the other to prevent splintering. If you drill deep enough you can use a flashlight to locate the center on the opposite side.

If you do not have a drill press you can use helper_4 and helper_5 but they need to be customized for your drill bit!

I also recommend performing a test drill on scrap wood from the previous step. This was one of the more challenging steps for me, as I do not have a drill press.

After you have aligned both Side-Boards, see if the holes align. If not, you can make some corrections with the jigsaw. But keep in mind that the 3D-printed parts can only cover up a small area.

Forstner bits can grab and cause the work piece to spin. Ensure the wood is very securely clamped to prevent this.

Before you start gluing take the time and put everything together just with the wood dowels inserted into the holes and see if everything fits. If not you can make corrections. If the glue sets (and the one I recommend does quickly) there is not really a way back!

For all the steps below you need to do the following:

1. Add a bit of glue in every hole on the edge of the wood you want to glue next.
2. Insert the wood dowels into the holes and make sure they are all the way in. If one does not go in use the rubber mallet to help a bit. If it is still not in try another dowel or cut the overhang with the iron saw.
3. Add a bit of glue in every hole on the corresponding wood face.
4. Apply glue to the mating surfaces. (see picture)
5. Put the two parts together and check that they are flush. If not use the rubber mallet to force them together.
6. Make sure the parts stay together and correctly align by using other parts of the assembly or by putting some weight on it. Alternatively, use wood clamps if you have ones of sufficient length.

Glue the parts together in the following order:

1. Glue the 3 parts (2xA + B) of the Ball-Box together. Use Goal-Board and Ball-Release-Board to hold them in the right shape while the glue sets.
2. Glue the Ball-Box together with the Goal-Board and the Ball-Release-Board. Use the Shelf-Board and both Side-Boards to hold them in the right shape while the glue sets.
3. Glue Shelf-Board to the assembly. Use both Side-Boards to hold them in the right shape while the glue sets.
4. Repeat the steps above for the second side.
5. Glue the Play-Field-Board and both side assemblies together. Use both Side-Boards to hold them in the right shape while the glue sets.
6. In this step remove one Side-Board and glue it to the assembly without removing the other Side-Board.
7. In the last step glue the other Side-Board.

On both the Leg-Short-Board and the Leg-Long-Board parts we want to cut the ends in a 15° angle. This can be done with the Jigsaw.

It is important that the Leg-Short-Boards are exactly the same length. Otherwise, the foosball table may be unstable.

When gluing the short and long leg pieces together, ensure they are oriented correctly to create a front and back leg pair. If you are unsure take another look at the exploded drawings! The main reason is that the Leg-Crossbar-Board will be parallel with the Foosball table.

Ensure the bottom edges of both leg pieces are aligned. For gluing, I just placed some glue on one of the two parts and then pushed them together.

We want to make the legs removable to make it easier to transport the table.

This will be done using M10 screws, nuts, and washers. First align the leg with the Side-Boards and drill a 10mm hole through both. You can mark it first to get it perfectly centered. (Don't be confused by the photos, I used smaller screws I did not have fitting M10 screws at home!)

Insert the screw with a washer through the aligned hole. On the other side, add another washer and secure it with a nut. When tightening the nut, ensure the Leg-Short-Board is flush with the Side-Board.

Don't forget to install the Leg-Crossbar-Board with the two 3D printed connectors and screw everything together with 3mm wood screws.

Clean the 3D printed parts so that they can align properly. Don't sand anything away from the top edges as this will leave gaps on the play field and we do not want this at all. In the worst-case scenario, you can always reprint any damaged parts.

Before gluing, I highly recommend laying out all the playfield pieces to check the fit (like a simple puzzle). For me the field was 2-3mm (PLA is prone to shrinkage during printing) too small and I aligned it to be centered.

Wood glue works well for bonding wood and PLA. Apply glue to the back of the printed parts and pressed them firmly onto the wood. Start in the center, gluing one piece at a time and frequently checking the alignment.

If any areas don't adhere completely, you can apply superglue to the grooves afterward.

After the glue has cured, use sandpaper to smooth any noticeable height differences. This worked very well for me, resulting in a smooth, continuous playfield surface.

The parts are oriented for printing so that the visible surfaces are the first layer printed on the build plate. I use the "Bambu Textured PEI Plate" and this ends up giving a nice shiny surface finish. The only problem there is the Ball Throw-In part as it can not be printed on the plate directly. This would result in a less desirable finish.

Therefore, I opted to print the ball throw-in part in two pieces and glue them together afterward. This compromise results in a slightly weaker part but a significantly improved appearance.

Use helper_7, as shown in the pictures, to align the two parts for gluing.

Apply superglue to both parts, carefully align them, and allow the glue to cure for several hours. This method worked well for me.

All parts are secured with 3mm wood screws, except for the point counters, which use 4mm wood screws.

Take your time to properly align all parts before securing them with screws. This will result in a more professional look and feel. Use helper_8 to aid in the vertical alignment of the rod bearings.

Before securing the

The ball catcher should be installed before the ball release cover.

Because the table is scaled down to 80%, the buffers also need to be reduced in size. They were easily cut using a hacksaw. The resulting buffer width should be approximately 14mm.

Always wear safety glasses when drilling metal to protect your eyes from flying debris.

Avoid using a vise directly on the rod, as this can damage the smooth surface. We need the smooth surface for the bearings to work best. You can use the helper_10 on both sides to clamp the rod to the table without damaging it.

We need four rods per player, requiring two rods of each rod configuration.

First, cut the rods to the correct lengths. Helper_10 can be used to ensure straight cuts (see picture). Minor imperfections are acceptable as they will be concealed within the handles. Note that for one configuration, the ordered rods are slightly short; this will also be hidden inside the handle.

Deburr the cut ends of the rods with a rasp.

We need to drill 3mm holes through each rod to secure the figures, stoppers, and handles with M3 screws. Precise alignment of the figure holes is crucial for parallel figures. Helper_9, used in conjunction with helper_10 (which prevents rod rotation), ensures consistent drilling angles.

Clamp helper_10 to both ends of the rod, using two additional helper_9 pieces in between. (Two in case one breaks or melt)

Here's the drilling process for all holes:

1. Clamp helper_9 in the correct position according to the drawings.
2. Apply WD-40 or similar lubricant to cool the drill bit.
3. Drill only a pilot hole (a small indent) to prevent the drill bit from wandering. This also helps to manage heat buildup, which could damage the helper.
4. Remove helper_9 and finish drilling through the first wall of the rod. Do not drill completely through rod in one pass. Reapply WD-40 to cool the drill bit!
5. Reposition helper_9.
6. Apply WD-40 through the existing hole to further cool the drill bit. Drilling through the rod's interior at this point should prevent helper_9 from melting.
7. Drill all the way through the rod.

Repeat this process for all remaining holes. This is one of the more challenging steps and may require some time and patience. If a helper breaks, simply reprint it. If a hole is drilled incorrectly, rotating the rod 90° can provide a fresh starting point. If you just slightly off, you can also make the drill holes bigger with the 90° countersink bit or a bigger drill.

Deburr the drilled holes in the rods using metal rasps or a 90° countersink bit. Also, lightly file the ends of the rods. Any burrs can damage the bearings or cause injury during the next step.

Now is the time to move the foosball table to its final location, as it will be much harder to carry once the rods are installed.

Insert each rod approximately two-thirds of the way through its bearings, add the figures and shock buffers, then carefully slide the rod fully into place and attach the handle.

Once all rods are installed, align the figures and handles with the drilled holes and secure them with M3 screws and nuts.

Apply grease-based lubricant directly to the rods, moving and rotating them to distribute it throughout the bearings. If they still feel stiff, apply more lubricant.

After lubricating all bearings, use paper towels to remove any excess grease,but leaving a thin film.

Finally, secure the end caps to the rods with superglue. If necessary, use a rubber mallet to gently tap them into place.

Congratulations! You've now built your own custom foosball table, perfect for hours of fun with family and friends. I hope you enjoy playing it as much as you enjoyed building it!

Now gather your players, choose your teams, and let the games begin!