K-Pop Demon Hunters: Huntrix & Saja Boys Lightsticks

As an ode to one of Netflix's best summer movies, K-pop Demon Hunters, I recreated the lightsticks of the QUEEN girl group Huntrix and the demon boy band Saja Boys.

I’ll walk you through how I made the Saja Boys lightstick first, so if you want the Huntrix tutorial, skip ahead to Step 7!

You need:

1. Autodesk Fusion 360 - https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview
2. Inspiration Pictures of Huntrix & Saja Boys Lightsticks

I made this by looking at an inspo image, and I realized there were better techniques after I finished making it. Make sure to read the whole step to understand my initial creation, thinking process, and an alternative method to ease the creation of each step.

I made the initial body sketch by eyeballing at the inspo image and trying to match the upside-down hexagon shape to the actual Saja Boys lightstick.

Better method to try instead:

1. Upload the inspo image as a Canvas on the bottom plane
2. Sketch lines on the image canvas plane to make the hexagon head shape
3. Hide the canvas visibility
4. Move your sketch into place
5. Finish the sketch

Click the head, then extrude to 50 mm. For the handle: create a circle with a radius of 10 mm and extrude to 300 mm. After you extrude, rotate the handle and center it to fit right under the head.

I made the Saja Boys Lion face the same way, by eyeballing the design. However, you can still sketch on the canvas/inspo image to an accurate lion face by following these steps:

1. Set the canvas image to visible again
2. Click it & make a new sketch
3. Use the "Line" feature to make straight lines. To draw a curve, hold down your mouse and move in the direction of the curve. This might take some practice.
4. Click Save Sketch

I extruded all the faces in the sketch 2 mm on the front side, but we need to mirror this on the other end too. Here is the process:

1. After you extrude, make the lion face sketch visible again
2. Right-click on the sketch in the timeline to click "Edit Sketch"
3. Right-click on the sketch in your sketch view and click "Move/Copy Sketch"
4. Click on the sketch face, and use the arrows that appear when you hover to move the sketch to be in line with the bottom face of the lightstick
5. Save Sketch

Your sketch should now be on the other side of the lightstick face. If you cannot see it, make sure to make it visible. Extrude all the faces in the design -2 mm (to make it extrude out).

This can be a little intensive and unintuitive to move the sketch, but if you can center it and extrude with symmetry, it might work better!

The button needs to be placed on the handle/body of the lightstick.

1. Click "Construct" on the main menu
2. Click on the "Tangent Plane" option. This will allow your button to be placed on a cylindrical handle
3. Click the cylinder, and make sure the tangent plane is visible
4. Make a new sketch of a circle on the tangent plane
5. Click "Modify" then "Offset" to make an inner circle. Set the offset to 1 mm, or anything of your choosing.
6. Save this sketch

Extrude only the inner and outer rings for the button effect. You can extrude 2-sided, going 5 mm into the object and 2 mm out to make sure it pops up.

While the original lightstick does not have a hanger, you can add a hanger in case you would like to 3D print & attach this design.

1. Make a sketch of a ring (a circle within a circle), and center it where only half sticks out of the object.
2. In the y-direction, move your sketch to the center of the Saja Boys face
3. Save the sketch
4. Extrude in one direction 10 mm. This way we can distinguish the back from the front of the lightstick.

Almost there... keep going!

The logo to hard to eyeball, so I followed the same process of uploading an image as the canvas on the tangent plane of the handle:

1. Upload the Saja Boys logo onto the Tangent Plane, move it into position
2. Create a new sketch on the tangent plane, with the image visible
3. Use "Create Line" to make tiny lines that outline the "S" in Saja Boys
4. Make sure to finish outlining the "S" by connecting the beginning of the first line you sketched to the end of the last line you sketched- having a complete body gives you the ability to extrude/emboss later
5. Repeat this with the whole name - "Saja Boys"!
6. Finish sketch, and remove the visibility of the Image Canvas and the Tangent Plane on the handle
7. Go to Create, then hit Emboss
8. Select the planes you want to Emboss - aka, select all the faces of Saja Boys
9. Switch the option to select the surface you want to emboss, this is NOT the tangent plane, but the handle body itself
10. Select the handle body

Emboss stamps the design into the surface, similar to how lightsticks are manufactured. If you don't like the look and want it to pop out, you can always Extrude or Emboss in the other direction instead!

Adding color is a little tricky- I noticed that the color you add on Fusion doesn't always convert over correctly to a 3D printing software like Bambu. Fusion 360 colors are for visualization while designing, while Bambu Studio colors are for the actual 3D print. So, whatever colors you choose here wil reset when you upload a .3mf file to Bambu. Still, for aesthetics & visualization purposes, here are the steps to add color:

First, make sure the material is constant so the color shows up the same:

1. Go to Modify > Physical Material
2. Find ABS Plastic - I find this is the easiest to visualize
3. Select the whole object
4. Drag it over the object to apply the material

Then, add color:

1. Go to Modify > Appearance
2. Select "Bodies" so the next color can apply to the whole body
3. Find Paint - Enamel Glossy (Black)
4. Drag this over the whole body to apply the color
5. Select "faces" so the next color can only apply to certain faces
6. Find Paint- Enamel Glossy (Red) onto the lion face and border faces
7. Zoom in if the face you want isn't highlighted!

Since Fusion colors don’t transfer, the way to keep your parts separate for multi-color printing is to export as 3MF:

1. Go to File → Export…
2. Under Type, select 3MF (not STL).
3. Make sure your entire design (all bodies) is selected.
4. Save the .3mf file.

This format saves each body separately, so you can assign colors later. STL files are the standard for 3D prints, but 3MF should work the same.

It was surprisingly difficult to find a standard inspo image for Huntrix, so I based the design off of what I felt was right from several images. I highly suggest reading over the Saja Boys lightstick first since the Huntrix lightstick uses the same concepts in case you need it in different words. I explained everything thoroughly in Saja Boys, so in case you get confused, I included references to steps that will help! Happy making!

We’ll build the four-leaf (clover) ring as clean parametric geometry.

1. Start a Sketch on the Top plane
2. Draw a rectangle with 160 mm edges, center if needed
3. At the edge of each point of the box, click and hold to draw a curve outward to each edge. You should automatically get circles with an 80 mm radius. Give each a radius of 50 mm
4. Finish Sketch and Extrude the clover 50 mm as a New Body.

For the base:

1. Construct a tangent plane at the bottom of the clover, draw a new sketch
2. Create the outer circle to be 120 mm in diameter, the inner circle 50 mm in diameter.
3. Finish sketch and extrude the whole circle 20 mm symmetrically, or 40 mm in total

For the handle:

1. Make the most recent sketch visible
2. Extrude only the inner face 370 mm from the initial sketch plane as a New Body

Preparation for the next step:

1. Fillet the top and bottom clover edges by 20 mm each to give the lightstick a smooth, curved look
2. Create a new sketch on the initial clover and extrude the entire clover in 10 mm, or have -10 mm space so we can start the lattice design!

I eyeballed a lot of this, you could upload an image as a canvas and sketch the lines (like in Saja Boys Step 2), but as a rule of thumb, each lattice was 10 mm in width, 10 mm in depth, and spanned from end to end in length. I included an image for some of the dimensions.

Make the lattice itself one sketch, and the Huntrix H one sketch, and extrude them both as new bodies. This will help distinguish the two colors when coloring later.

The last thing I did was fillet the inner edge with a radius of 8mm to continue the curved look. If you don't think the intial lightstick had curves on the edges, by all means, you don't need to fillet it!

The button was simmilar to how I did it for Saja Boys Step 3:

1. Construct a Tangent Plane on the handle, click the handle’s cylinder near the top—this creates a planar sketch area that’s tangent to the curvature.
2. Sketch the clover with a 19 mm rectangle, move it to center it on the handle
3. Click and hold when you sketch a curved line for the clover edges again. The curves should automatically fit, and you can dimension this to make it all match
4. Finish sketch & extrude to object, the object being the handle. This automatically adjusts the button side.
5. Keeping the old sketch visible, edit this sketch to add another clover that offsets the initial sketch by 1 mm inside to make the button feeling.
6. Finish this inner clover, extrude inside by 1 mm, or by -1.

For the end, I filleted the edge until I couldn't fillet further, which happened to be a radius of 20 mm.

For the logo, I followed the same process as Saja Boys Step 4, where I:

1. Imported an Image as a canvas on the tangent place to the handle
2. Resized it to what I liked
3. Started a new sketch and used lines to trace over the logo
4. Hit Emboss into the handle plane

I think this was the trickiest part for me. I extruded my initial circle back a little bit by 25 mm so I can make a curved base.

1. Create a plane on the closest end of the 10 mm base.
2. Click "Loft" from the plane to the starting circle of the handle.

This creates a conical base structure.

Finally, I created the hanger the same way I did for Saja Boys Step 3. While the original lightstick does not have a hanger, you can add a hanger in case you would like to 3D print & attach this design.

1. Make a sketch of a ring (a circle within a circle), and center it to where only half sticks out of the object.
2. In the y-direction, move your sketch to the center of the Huntrix border
3. Save the sketch
4. Extrude symmetrically in both directions 5 mm, or 10 mm in total.

So, Fusion doesn't always convert over correctly to a 3D printing software like Bambu. Fusion 360 colors are for visualization while designing, while Bambu Studio colors are for the actual 3D print. Whatever colors you choose here reset when you upload a .3mf file to Bambu. Still, here are the steps to add color in fusion:

First, make sure the material is constant so the color shows up the same:

1. Go to Modify > Physical Material
2. Find ABS Plastic - I find this is the easiest to visualize
3. Select the whole object
4. Drag it over the object to apply the material

Then, add color:

1. Go to Modify > Appearance
2. Select "Bodies" so the next color can apply to the whole body
3. Add the colors that you would like to each body part/face.

The purple is actually a custom color, so I included my configurations in the picture. Here is a breakdown of all my colors:

1. Entire Body: Stainless Steel - Satin
2. Huntrix H: ABS White
3. Lattice: Paint - Enamel Glossy - (Green) but I fixed RGB to (148, 67, 236) with a roughness of 0.077 and reflectiveness of 0.06
4. Hanger: I kept the original material, but you can change it to Stainless Steel - Satin

Again, this is just to show colors on Fusion. You need to customize colors again on a .3mf file when printing in Bambu

**I actually added glass to my initial design directly on the lattice plane by extruding a new body and applying the Glass appearance, in case you just want to display it in Fusion. However, since I plan to 3D print my model, I removed the glass in the final design because it would get in the way.

Same export process as Saja Boys Step 6. Since Fusion colors don’t transfer, the way to keep your parts separate for multi-color printing is to export as 3MF:

1. Go to File → Export…
2. Under Type, select 3MF (not STL).
3. Make sure your entire design (all bodies) is selected.
4. Save the .3mf file.

This format saves each body separately so you can assign colors later. STL files are usually the 3D print ones, but 3MF should work the same.

I may not have recreated this project exactly as it appeared in the movie, but I truly hope you enjoyed the design process and found inspiration along the way.

If you face any issues, please use Google, ChatGPT, or Fusion Q&A pages as a resource. Thanks for exploring this build with me! Enjoy your Saja Boys and Huntrix Lightsicks!