Instructables Robot Helping Hand for Soldering

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Instructables, a platform that has inspired countless makers, tinkerers, and inventors around the world. To celebrate this milestone, I wanted to create something fun, useful, and true to the spirit of DIY.

So, I designed and built an Instructables robot–themed helping hand for soldering. This project is not only a functional tool but also a tribute to the creativity and ingenuity that Instructables has inspired over the past two decades. This robot-themed helping hand is perfect for anyone who loves to tinker with electronics. Its flexible arms allow you to securely hold wires, circuit boards, and other small components, leaving your hands free to solder. It's a fun and practical addition to any workbench. Let's get building!

1. 3D Printing filament PLA (Yellow, Red, Black, Silver) or any color
2. Spray Paint(Only if printed with single color)
3. Masking tape(Only if printed with single color)
4. 12mm X 1.5mm Neodymium Disc Magnets - 2 (Link to Buy)
5. Cement
6. M3 x 6mm Threaded inserts - 2 (Link to Buy)
7. M3 x 12mm screw- 2 (Link to Buy)
8. Alligator clips - 2 (Link to Buy)
9. 1.5sqmm wire
10. Heat shrink tube 2.5mm
11. superglue

Before printing the parts, there are a few things to keep in mind. As a bonus feature, I added two embedded magnets inside the robot’s head. These magnets are super handy for holding screws and other small parts while you work.

To add the magnets, you’ll need to pause the printer at the right layer during printing. The easiest way to do this in Cura is:

1. Go to Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code
2. Click Add a Script > Pause at Height
3. Set the pause just before the layer that closes the magnet holes

Note: Different printers or slicing software may have their own methods for pausing. In my case, I’m using an Ender 3 with Cura.

The second important thing to note is how you orient the ball joints on the print bed. If you print them vertically, they can easily break along the layer lines when you assemble them. To ensure they are strong and durable, it's very important to print them horizontally.

Robot Main Body printed with 0.15 layer height, 15% infill, No supports.

Ball joints printed with 0.15 layer height, 15% infill, With supports, and Wall line count of 5.

This project was made using the materials I already had on hand. Since I didn’t have yellow filament, I printed the robot parts in black and later painted them yellow.

While printing the robot body, the printer automatically paused at the layer I had set earlier. At that point, I placed the magnets inside the head and then resumed the print.

Once the printing was complete, I removed the support material.

I’ve also attached an image showing the difference between printing the ball joint vertically and horizontally—the one on the left was printed vertically and is much weaker, while the one on the right was printed horizontally and is far stronger.

A lightweight or flimsy base won’t make soldering any easier—in fact, it can be quite frustrating when the whole thing shifts around. So we'll add some weight to its body.

If you look at the bottom of the robot's body, you'll see a hole. This is where we'll pour in some cement or a similar material to give the robot a solid foundation.

For this build, I mixed some cement into a loose slurry, which made it easier to pour into the hole. Once filled, I let it cure and harden inside the base. You can add small pebbles or stones along with the cement for extra weight.

Next, we'll add the M3 x 6mm threaded inserts to the robot's body. These inserts are for screwing the ball joint bases, which will support the flexible arms.

To install them, simply use a soldering iron to heat up the threaded inserts and press them into the designated holes on the robot's body. The heat will melt the plastic slightly, allowing the inserts to slide in smoothly and create a perfect, threaded fit.

Before painting it's a good idea to do a quick test fit of all the pieces.

I paid special attention to the eyebrow and mouth pieces. Due to slight overhangs from the printing process, I had to do a bit of cleanup. Using a sharp utility knife, I carefully trimmed away any excess material to make sure they fit perfectly into the main body.

I masked threaded inserts and the pocket area.

After masking off any areas you don't want to be painted, you can start applying your color. I began by spray painting the main body entirely yellow. For the smaller, more detailed parts like the antenna's and eyes, I used a brush to hand-paint them. For a smoother finish, it's a good idea to sand your printed parts before painting to hide the layer lines. I was too lazy to do this myself! ツ

While the paint is curing, let's get the alligator clips ready. These will be the "hands" of our robot, used to securely hold PCBs or components.

1. Remove the Insulator: The easiest way to remove the plastic insulator from the clip is to attach it to an object like a screwdriver and slide the insulator back.
2. Solder the Wires: I soldered a 1.5mm² copper wire to the base of each clip. I also tinned the entire copper wire with solder to make it more rigid and less likely to bend.
3. Add Heat Shrink: Next, I added heat shrink tubing over the soldered copper wire and slid it down into the 3D-printed part(Mine is tight fit, You can add tiny amount of superglue)
4. Heat Shrink on Teeth: I also added heat shrink tubes over the teeth of the alligator clips. This will prevent the sharp teeth from damaging or scratching the delicate components you're holding.

Once the paint is completely dry, it's time to attach the base of the ball joints. Using M3 x 12mm screws.

it's time to add the finishing touches. I used a tiny amount of superglue to attach the smaller pieces, like the eyes, antenna's and the knobs, to the robot's body. Be careful to use only a small dab of glue to avoid any mess.

Snapping the ball joints together can be a bit tough. The trick is hold one ball joint at an angle and push down with a bit of force. It should snap into place. You might want to use gloves for a better grip.

The tightness of these joints is crucial for a reliable helping hand. Over time, they may become a little loose with repeated use. If this happens, you can easily restore their original tightness. Simply remove the ball joint, apply a small, thin layer of super glue around the ball, let it dry completely, and then snap it back into place.

And just like that, your very own Instructables Robot-themed helping hand is ready for action! With its flexible arms and strong grip, it's the perfect companion for your next electronics project.

Now you can get to soldering with both hands free. And don't forget to use the bonus feature—the magnetic head—to keep your screws and other small metal parts from rolling away.

Happy soldering, and happy 20th Anniversary, Instructables!