Inexpensive Modular Photo Studio Stands

This Instructable shows to make 4 expandable/collapsible lighting stands and 2 expandable/collapsible backdrop stands inexpensively ($50 or less depending on how resourceful you are).

I got the idea from this video, but I wasn't keen on the idea of storing an 8' tall stick in a can even if 8' might be nice to have as an option.  These I can easily store in a closet.

If you want something a bit more beefy/potentially taller, use larger buckets, more cement, and more wood.

Materials:
-9 Furring Boards (1"x2"x8')
-6 Buckets (4-5qt)
-Saw and Miter Box
-Gloves
-Latex Gloves (not shown)
-Rubber boots
-Mask
-Tape Measure
-Masking Tape
-Scissors
-Pencil
-100lbs of Cement (2 x 50lb bags)
-Hose (or full watering can; not shown)
-Piece of wood for mixing (not shown)
-Junk Cup/Can (shown later)
-Level (not shown)
-12 2" Mending Plates (not shown)
-Screws (or bolts with washers and nuts; not shown)
-Drill and Drill Bits (not shown)
-Sander (not shown)
-3/8" Dowel Rod (not shown)
-5" lengths of Bamboo (or 1/4" dowel rod; not shown)
-Rubber mallet (not shown)

Cut boards in half or to the length/height that you will ultimately want.

Tape 3 boards together such that the middle one is offset greater than the depth of the bucket.

Note:  Tape is being used so the boards aren't tightly squeezed together because the middle board will need a bit of sliding room later on.

Place one taped-together-stack-of-boards into the bucket.

Follow the directions on the bag for mixing the concrete and add the concrete to each bucket. 

Note:  You will need gloves, latex gloves, and dust mask for safety.  Rubber boots are also recommended to protect your other shoes.

Level and reposition the boards.

Note:  I did not use a level because the boards are light and will neither be used for holding heavy things nor stressed.

Note:  I suck at using cement.

During the cementing process, some of the boards may have warped or shifted, and the middle board may not longer be able to touch the top of the cement when slotted between the outside boards.  Sand the middle board to make it fit.  You will sand again later on, so this is just for fit.

Mark the holes for the mending plates at the top of each of the outside boards as shown in the picture.

Drill holes and secure with screws or bolts.

Tip:  If the middle board is a little too snug in the fit, add small washers between the mending plate and the board.

Having done this a couple different ways, the easiest way is this:

Mark 2 holes in the middle of an outside board separated by 2" or so.

Hold the middle board so that roughly the bottom 6" is sandwiched between the boards.

Drill holes through all three boards graduating the bit size until you reach 3/8" or the appropriate size to easily slip a dowel rod through.

Lower the middle board so that the upper hole in the middle board is positioned within the lower hole in the outside boards.

Insert a dowel.

Drill a hole through the middle board using the upper hole on the outside boards as a guide.

Continue lowering, inserting a dowel, and drilling until you have reach the necessary number.

Sand the outside boards and the middle boards again to remove loose fragments and soften the rough edges so you don't get splinters when using these.

For 2 of the middle boards, drill a hole the exact same size as the dowel you are using.

Pound the dowel into the hole with a rubber mallet.

By slotting in bamboo/dowel rod into the 2 points, you can raise and lower the middle board.  This is useful for backdrops, lights attached with hardware to the tops of middle boards, and storage.

You can attach lights using permanent hardware or hand clamps.

You can probably do a better job than I did.