Inexpensive Dremel Router Attachment

Dremel is a brand of cutting tools for small-scale applications. Where I live, they do sell attachments for the dremel to convert it from a cut-off tool into a router, but I couldn't justify the cost. For a router attachment it was near $30. Here's an instructable on how to make a router attachment for a tenth of the price using some yard plumbing parts.

The bottom of the router attachment is made out of thick (0.5 inch) acrylic plastic to make it somewhat transparent. To get a usable piece, I did the following:

1. Cut off a suitable width of acrylic plastic from stock piece.
2. Measure the width.
3. Mark the the width as the height of the cut line.
4. Cut out a square.
5. Draw an X from corner-to-corner.

In this step, round the square:

1. Use a scriber tool to put a dent into the center of the square.
2. Use a compass to draw a circle inside the square.
3. Cut off the edges.
4. Drill a through hole.

Once semi-rounded:

1. Put into a wood lathe (use rubber as an end-spacer)
2. Round with tools.
3. Use water to cool the tools.

In this step sand and polish the rounded base:

1. Use wet sandpaper.
2. Start with a coarse grit.
3. Step down to fine grit sandpaper.
4. Use rubbing compound.
5. Use toothpaste.

When you get to the paste type polishing compounds, make sure to wipe with water between switching compounds. By the end, a transparent disk should result as pictured.

In this step, prepare the PVC pieces. This is a threaded 3/4" PVC to threaded nipple, along with a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer. The reducer fits perfectly over the Dremel where the attachment would normally go, and the threaded nipple allows for adjustment. Sanding is necessary to remove any knobs / logs which take away from the level PVC surface on either end. You could just use this as its own step for a quick use router attachment.

In this step, shorten the PVC to make room for the acrylic base. Cut the ridges off the PVC nipple to make it easy to miter saw.

In this step, glue everything together. Epoxy is probably the best glue because it does not create vapors that could discolor the acrylic. Using the threading to move the PVC up/down and a triangle bit helps position the base directly over the middle. Once dry it should be ready to use.