Indian Braided Embroidery

Indian braided embroidery is a very ancient embroidery art which is still practiced in India.

This embroidery style, which seems complicated at first glance, is actually quite simple. If you take a closer look at the embroidery above in the foto, you'll notice that the patterns are composed of many squares, and the adjacent squares share a common corner. The basic stitch does indeed consist of a single square, and it's quick and easy to learn.

Since this embroidery technique can be combined with other types of embroidery, (see 2nd Foto), very beautiful effects can be achieved. The patterns, as already mentioned, consist of several squares arranged in a row, so you can design your own patterns to match the garment as desired. It's worthwhile to study this embroidery.

These instructions describe step by step how to construct the braiding grid and then braid it.

The embroiphdery is done in two phases: after the motif has been transferred to the fabric, the braided grid is created in the first phase. In the second phase, the braided grid is filled with the braided stitch. This is why almost nothing is visible on the reverse side of the fabric. See 3rd and 4th Foto.

The following materials should always be on hand:

• Graph paper, pencil, and eraser for drawing the motifs.

• Carbon paper for transferring the motifs to the fabric.

• Fabric. Sturdy linen or cotton fabric or AIDA fabric is suitable for learning.

• Embroidery floss. When learning, use threads in strong, contrasting colors (blue and red for example). This allows mistakes to be quickly identified and corrected.

• Pointed and blunt needles, in sizes that match the fabric and floss.

• Scissors, not only for cutting the thread but also as an important tool.

The basic pattern is a square, i.e. the braided grid consists of a braided square. The square is then filled by braiding again.

The technique is explained in detail below. The verbal step-by-step description of the stitch is supported by numerous drawings.

In each section, the first drawing represents the pattern to be embroidered. The lines are represented by thin strokes. The subsequent drawings build on each other. In each diagram, the next step is represented by a slightly thicker line, and the finished stitched part by a double line. The sequence of steps is indicated by letters and numbers. Logically, the braiding starts at 1.

Use Aida Fabric and draw the pattern with numbers as shown in diagram A

Diagrams A to F show how to create the braided grid for a one-square pattern.

Diagram A shows the drawing of the square on the fabric, and diagram F shows the finished braided grid. Diagram F clearly shows that the finished braided grid itself is braided, i.e., the threads lie above or below the neighboring threads.

If you are unsure whether the thread should be above or below the neighboring threads when creating the braided grid, use scissors. Hold the scissors next to the corner to be embroidered with the tips pointing towards the center of the square. The threads are positioned like the blades of scissors. After some practice, your eye will be trained to do it without scissors.

For example, in drawing E, at corner 8/1, the needle is pushed under thread 1-2 and only then inserted at point 8.

Once the braided grid is complete, the filling pattern is created.

For this work, use a blunt needle and a contrasting color of embroidery floss so that the braided grid is distinct from the filling yarn. This minimizes major mistakes, or rather, allows for quick identification and correction.

Drawings G to N show how the filling pattern is woven into the braided grid completed in the first phase (drawings A to F).

The filling pattern is also braided, i.e., the thread is pushed under the thread below and placed over the thread above. Only with these steps does one realize how important it is to work the braided grid precisely. If the braided grid was braided correctly in the first phase, no further mental work is required in this phase.

We start at 1. The needle goes over the thread 1-2 and under the thread 8-7 at the corner 8-1. Then the needle goes over the thread 3-4, under the thread 2-1, over the thread 3-4. This procedure repeats at every corner, until we reach back to the point 1.

Remember, it is like weaving.

The braided grid making should be practiced, until you are confident. It's important to stitch the braided grid precisely. Mistakes should be carefully corrected, even if it's sometimes difficult to undo the work you've already stitched. Later, you'll be glad you did it. Once the braided phase is stitched flawlessly, filling it is no longer difficult.

Drawings 2-A to 2-K demonstrate how to construct the grid of two squares. If necessary, you can use scissors to determine whether the new thread should be placed above or below the existing thread. You may have noticed that the direction of the needle changes at some corners. The placement of the new thread also changes here.

I think the drawings are selfexplanatory, so I leave it to you to practice making the Two-Square Pattern

After completing the braiding grid for the two-square pattern, filling begins as we already practiced with the one-square pattern. Here we learn the transition from one square to the other. The rule is: when you reach a corner where another square joins, the transition into the new square takes place.

The drawings above illustrate how it's done. Drawings 2-L to 2-Q are similar to drawings G to L and are not difficult to understand. In drawing 2-Q, you enter the second square. Braiding continues now in this square. Drawings 2-R to 2-W show how to braid the second square. Drawings 2-X and 2-Y illustrate the braiding for the remainder of the first square. Drawing 2-Z then shows the finished braided two-square pattern.

When filling the braided grid, it's important to practice the transition into the adjacent square thoroughly. The patterns 2-Q and 2-X are especially important to remember.

It's very important to set up the grid precisely, the braiding then happens more or less automatically. The underlying threads are lifted by the braiding thread sliding underneath them.

The finished two-square pattern clearly shows that the embroidery pattern is being braided, with the braiding thread moving over and under the existing threads.

Build and fill the braiding grid.

The next step is the three-square pattern. There are two variations of the three-square pattern. We'll start with the simpler version. The three-square pattern to be embroidered is shown in Figure 3-A. It is simply an extension of the two-square pattern. The finished grid is shown in Figure 3-B.

A step-by-step description will be omitted here, as it is an extension of the two-square pattern. The scissors are shown in the correct position to help you.

Figures 3-C and 3-D show the transitions to the adjacent squares, and Figure 3-G shows the finished braided grid.

Drawings 3-H to 3-Q show the variation of the three-square pattern. Drawing 3-H shows the pattern to be stitched, drawing 3-I the finished braided grid, and drawing 3-Q the finished braided pattern. In between drawings 3-J to 3-P show the transitions from one square to the next.

Once you have practiced the first variation of the three-square pattern, it is no longer difficult to braid this variation. The arrangement of the squares may be different, but the braiding principle remains the same. When you reach a corner where a new square begins, you first branch out into it and then braid it.

Four- and five-square patterns

The drawings above show how these patterns are stitched. The principle of braided stitching and filling remains unchanged. Therefore only the important operations where difficulties might arise are shown.

The five-square pattern is very typical of Indian braided embroidery. This pattern is often the basis for other, more complex patterns. See Fotos 3 and 4.

Above there are some typical patterns for Border

Try to braid them.

Now you are in a position to draw your own patterns. Use these Fotos to get inspiration.

To start with use coarse material like linen or jeans

The same color and thread thickness can be used for both phases. By using different colors and thread thicknesses, beautiful effects can be achieved.

Good luck!