How to Take Apart and Re-assemble a Leatherman Charge TTi

This Instructable will demonstrate a full break down and reassembly of a Leatherman Charge TTitool. The focus is on the proper placement of parts along with some tips and tricks to make it go easier. We'll be using a couple specialty tools, but you can make do at home with the basic "required tools" list.

The steps are very similar to the Wave with the addition of the separate titanium scales. If you are able to practice on the Wave before attempting the Charge, you'll have an easier time holding everything together.

Please be warned that tampering with your tool may void the warranty. If you're having an issue with your tool, Leatherman has a great warranty repair program, and in most cases you can send your tool in for factory repairs.

If you're looking for a specific modification to your tool and would like to have a warranty, please check our our website. We will mirror the original factory warranty on the functionality of all of our modified tools.

Basic Tools List

• 2x torx 10 security bits (must have the hole in the tip)
• 1x 1/4" bit driver holdervice or clamp to hold one of the torx bits
• a "poking" tool of some kind - an old worn torx screwdriver is used in the demo
• lubricating oil (optional, as necessary)
• loctite (optional, as necessary)

Advanced Tools List

• a stable platform for holding your torx bit steady
• an assembly pin for aligning the exterior functions

Quick bit of advertising

You can find replacement parts and modified multi-tools on our website:

txtoolcrafters.com

Here are some shortcuts to the blades for the Charge TTi:

Charge/Wave Damascus Plain Edge Blade

Charge/Wave Damascus Serrated Blade

Charge/Wave 420hc Plain Edge Blade

Charge/Wave 420hc Serrated Blade

Charge/Wave 420hc Serrated Blade (Black Oxide)

Charge/Wave s30v Plain Edge Blade

Charge/Wave s35vn Super Steel Blade

Please feel free to contact us directly for any other parts you might need for your Leatherman tool: customer.support@texastoolcrafters.com

We're defining side A as the half of the tool with the plain edge blade and file. The handle measurements should start with 1" on this side.

Align the tool in the holder as photographed. This orientation is recommend as you can hold the pin steady on the torx bit mounted on the table while rotating the screw with your screwdriver.

When the screw is removed, use your poker to push the pin the rest of the way through the tool. You may need to pinch the exterior functions together to prevent them from binding on the pin.

You'll be left with a screw, a pin, two brass bushings, the plain edge blade, file, and two remaining assemblies.

We're defining side B as the half of the tool with the serrated blade and saw. You'll see 5" - 7" markings on this side of the handles.

The procedure is the same as side A:

Align the tool in the holder as photographed. This orientation is recommend as you can hold the pin steady on the torx bit mounted on the table while rotating the screw with your screwdriver.

When the screw is removed, use your poker to push the pin the rest of the way through the tool. You may need to pinch the exterior functions together to prevent them from binding on the pin.

On the interior, side A is the side with the 1"-3" markings, the removable bit holder, and the can/bottle opener.

About this pin

The pin for the interior functions is keyed. It is not cylindrical -- there is a flat area on opposite sides of the pin. This key correlates with the shape of the steel bushings between the functions, and the handle bracket.

It is important to orient the tool as photographed so that the pin is not rotated. If the pin is rotated while the functions are held still, it is possible to "round out" the steel bushings and misalign the key, making it difficult to remove the pin.

After the screw is removed, you should be able to easily push the pin out with the poker.

If you can't easily remove the pin

This can be common for heavily used tools and if you accidentally rotated the pin when removing the screw.

First, try gently rotating the pin back and forth a bit. If it feels like you can rotate a few degrees in either direction without resistance, the pin is probably still aligned properly and you can try using a bit more force with your poker to remove the pin.

If you feel resistance immediately, most likely the key is misaligned with the bushings. You'll need to keep rotating the pin until you feel an area where the resistance lowers. Once you feel this ~3 degree region, try removing the pin with your poker.

On very old/well used tools, sometimes this step is a hassle and force is the only option.

When you're finished with this step, you'll be left with the interior functions, two titanium scales, one spacer, and one steel keyed bushing.

On the interior, side A is the side with the 5"-7" markings, the scissors, eyeglass driver, and standard screwdriver.

The procedure on this side is the same as on side A. It can be slightly more difficult, as there are two keyed bushings instead of one.

When you're done, you should have the interior functions, two titanium scales, a spacer, and two steel keyed bushings.

Use your poker as a "threader" to load up the functions and bushing.

Orient the handle bracket horizontally so that the interior cavity is parallel with your workspace. Hold the functions together and slide the bunch into the handle. If you're holding it correctly, gravity should be holding the functions together at this point. A drop of oil can also help keep things in their place.

Remove the poker and slide the functions the rest of the way into the handle bracket. If you've done it cleanly, things should be pretty well aligned looking down the hole.

The trick with this step is holding everything together while you get the pin inserted. The addition of the two separate scale pieces makes it more difficult than the Wave.

Maintain a horizontal position during this step to keep everything aligned.

Position the bottom scale piece (only one will fit properly) and hold it in place between your thumb and index finger. If you're right handed, do this holding with your left hand.

With your other hand, feed the pin up through the bottom.

The steel bushing is probably not going to be oriented perfectly. Sight down the hole from the top and gently rotate the pin. You will be able to see the bushing -- ensure that the pin goes through and does not slide off to the side. Gentle rotating will align the bushing and it will feed through.

If desired, reapply loctite, position the top scale piece, and reinsert the screw.

Tension as desired -- we recommend tightening hand tight and backing off 1/4 turn.

The steps are the same for side B, with the added complications of extra functions and the lanyard loop.

Here are some tips:

• ensure that the two pieces of the scissors function are meshed together properly before sliding into the tool
• double check that both of the steel bushings made it around the pin before reinserting the screw
• refer to the photos for the orientation of the lanyard loop

Again, same as side A, just more difficult because of the extra functions.

Position everything as shown, roughly aligning the holes. The liner lock mechanism holds the exterior blades in place during this step.

Here's where the blades go, using the ruler as a guide:

1"-3" : main blade

2cm - 8cm : file

12cm - 18cm: serrated blade

5"-7" : saw

This is a special pin that makes assembling this side of the tool quick and easy. You can make your own out of 5/32" diameter rod or send us an email and we'll sell you one.

It's not necessary, but expect a bit of frustration finishing up the assembly without it.

Orient the tool horizontally as shown.

Slide the brass bushings into place between the function and the handle bracket on both sides. A drop of oil can help keep them in place.

If you have an assembly pin, slide it in and push the pin through behind it.

If you do not have an assembly pin, here are some tips:

· use rotation to help guide the pin through the tool

· pinch the sides of the tool to help orient the holes (there are some springs that need to be compressed for perfect alignment

· ensure that the exterior functions

Once the pin is through, reapply loctite and insert the screw. Tighten to the desired tension.

Exact same as side B.

Tips and Troubleshooting

· all functions should open easily, but should not flop around or have side side to side play

· you should not see visible gaps between the blades/bushings/brackets

· if your blades become wobbly after opening and closing a few times, try reapplying the loctite

· if the tool feels extremely tight when opening, do not force it. Check that the springs on either side of the plier guides are properly aligned

If you have any questions, please drop us a line at customer.support@texastoolcrafters.com