How to Replace Carpet on Stairs With Wood (Cheapest Method)

In this instructable, I show you the cheapest way to replace carpet on stairs with wood. Also, this method allows you to match your existing hardwood flooring.

Even if you don't need to replace carpet stairs, the techniques I cover in this project can be applied to other staircase makeovers.

There are several things which are difficult to fully explain with words and images, so be sure to check out the video tutorial above. 

Carpet Removal Tool

Pliers

Staple Puller

Jig Saw

Hand Saw

Stair Measuring Jig

Table Saw

Dewalt Trim Router

1/2" roundover bit

Router Table

Liquid Nail Adhesive

Wood Stain

Wood Stain Sealer

Cordless Brad Nailer

First, I wanted my stairs to match my new hardwood flooring in my home. The hardwood flooring dealer tried to sell me stair treads and risers to match my flooring, but they were outrageously expensive.

I did a quick price comparison to replace carpet stairs with wood flooring in lieu of pre-made stair treads and risers to show you the cost savings. By far, this is the cheapest way to replace carpet on stairs.

The price per stair comparison is below:

• Price for Pre-made stair tread and riser:
• $105.00 per Stair
• Price for stair tread and riser using Hardwood flooring:
• $18.21 per Stair

So, I decided to replace my carpeted stairs with the same wood flooring used in my home.

The first step to replace carpet stairs with wood is to remove the carpet, carpet padding, and other hardware (staples, nails, etc.). 

Removing carpet from stairs can be time consuming. However, you must get a flat surface free of debris before proceeding to subsequent steps.

First, use a carpet removal tool to cut the edge of the carpet & padding on each stair. This makes it easy to roll-up the carpet and discard it.

A flat head screw driver and a hammer work well to remove the staples.

Use a jig saw or circular saw to trim the bullnose off so that the tread and riser are flush (90 degree angle).

If your stairs have a wall on either side, you will not be able to remove the entire bullnose. Trim as much as you can and cut the rest with a hand saw or with a hammer/chisel.

This doesn’t need to be perfectly flush – just get it as close as you can.  Also, the imperfections will be covered up at a later step.

Gather enough wood flooring for the risers so that it is flush or slightly taller than the stair. 

It cannot be shorter than the thickness of your flooring. If your flooring is 1/2" thick, the boards must be within 1/2" of the top of your tread. In my case, it was 2 boards.

Next, attach the boards together and place the attached boards up against the riser portion of your stair. If the boards are slightly taller than your tread, you will want to trim off equal amounts off the top and bottom of the boards.

This makes them flush and the seam between the pieces falls in the middle. Keep in mind, make the boards flush or slightly shorter than the top of the tread.

Before you trim the boards, make sure to mark the boards where they need to be cut with a pencil. Keep in mind, it is very easy to forget which side of the board needs to be cut. 

You can use a table saw or circular saw with a straight edge to rip the boards.  After you cut the boards to size, make sure they fit on the riser.

Also, it is ok for them to be a little short, but not shorter than the thickness of the wood. After you cut the boards to size, make sure they fit on the riser.

As a quick tip, complete all the risers before moving to the treads. Obviously, this will save you time and allow you to get into a rhythm.

Gather enough wood for the treads so that it extends over the riser the amount that your bullnose needs to be.

I needed a total of 3 boards in my example.

If your bullnose is 1″, make sure your boards for your tread hang over your riser at least 1″. Take the measure of the tongue/groove at the end of the board. This measurement will need to be added. 

For example, you want a 1″ bullnose & the groove of the board is 1/4″. So, make sure you have at least 1 1/4″ of overhang.

Next, make a pencil mark on the end of the board that hangs over the riser. Then, remove it and trim off the tongue or groove using your table saw or circular saw. 

Lastly, get a scrap or an extra full-length board and repeat the process again on this board.

The walls on either side of the staircase will most likely not be square to your stairs. Keep this in mind when measuring the width of your risers/treads.

If you plan to use moulding around your stairs, you don’t need to concern yourself with this.  However, you may want to invest in a stair measuring jig.

This tool measures the exact angle of the wall & stair.  In turn, it helps you to transfer this measurement to your saw to ensure your stairs fit snugly to the wall.

Next, use a 1/2 inch roundover bit & a trim router to roundover the top of each side of the board you just ripped in the previous step. 

If your boards are 1/4″ thick, use a 1/4″ roundover bit. Then, I used a router table in this step, but this is not needed. 

Also, clamping the pieces down and using a router with your hand will work just as well. Once each board has a roundover, place them together and make sure the boards make a bullnose when put together.

Place the board that goes on the end of the tread and measure the distance from the riser to the end of the roundover with a combination square.

Use this measurement to rip the excess from the other board that was rounded over leaving the side that was rounded over. This piece will be attached to the underside of the top tread to make the bottom part of the bullnose.

Remove the top/bottom piece that make up the bullnose from the stair tread and bring it to your garage or workshop. Use wood glue to glue the top/bottom of the bullnose together, clamp the pieces, and let it dry overnight. 

Make sure the top/bottom pieces do not slide back or forward when tightening the clamps.

Next, remove the clamps and inspect the middle of the bullnose. 

If there are gaps in the bullnose seam, mix wood glue and saw dust from cutting these boards into a putty-like consistency.

Then, fill the gap with this mixture and let dry for a few hours.

Finally, the last step is to find a suitable wood stain that matches your wood.  This step may involve some trial and error to get the color right. 

You can mix wood stains &/or apply multiple coats to achieve your desired color.  Apply the stain and let it dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Next, apply a sealer to the bullnose with a finish that matches your wood. If your wood has a high gloss finish, use a high-gloss sealer. Use a flat/matte sealer if your wood has a flat/matte finish.

This helps maintain consistency between the bullnose and surface of the wood.

The process to secure the tread/riser are the same. I used liquid nail and applied it liberally to the bare wood on the tread/riser in a wave pattern.

Next, I repeated the pattern in the opposite direction to increase coverage. Then, I joined the boards together and secured the seam with a piece of painter’s tape that ran perpendicular on the board. 

I pushed the boards down until I felt a suction and wiggled them in place.

Finally, I nailed them with my brad nailer with 1″ nails. I used 6 brads on the riser and 6 brads on the treads.

I hope this instructable provided you with value. Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions - I'm happy to help.

Be sure to checkout my YouTube channel and my website for more DIY tutorials.