How to Make a Steampunk Bolero Jacket

This instructable is how to make a quick and stylish Bolero Jacket for your SteamPunk outfit.
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Photos: MGNorris.com

What you will need.

thread (i serge all my seams so i tend to get 3-4 spools of the matching color
3 yards silk or teffeta
ruffle foot for your sewing machine
Sewing Machine
Serger(optional)
1 yard interfacing
2 yards or so of Trim depending on size
For this i combined simplicity 442 and 2478

Whenever I decide to do some serious tinkering with a pattern I always make a canvas mockup.
Trust me this step saves hair pulling and tears later, plus it gives you a pattern you can use over
and over again if you end up liking the design.

I cut out the pieces for the main jacket and stitched together the pieces at the neck and then sewed the darts and the side seams.
I decided to use the second pattern mostly for the bell sleeves so i got strait to fitting this pattern. Take in at the sides and neck until
your have a good fit.

You can see that I adjusted the shoulders in on the left from where they were originally on the right.
I almost ALWAYS have to alter the arm/shoulders on stock patterns.

Now that you have your mockup set, pull it apart and use it as pattern pieces.

Cut out the jacket pieces and the sleeves from the other pattern.
As you can see i doubled the size of the length and width of the sleeve ruffle so that I could
ruffle it.

Cut out interfacing layer for the main jacket and fuse with steam setting of an iron to the wrong side of your fabric.

Stitch together at the neck center, center back, and shoulders.

Then pin along dart lines and stitch.
Do not back stitch at the ends, instead tie the loose ends in a knot for crisp darts.

Then stitch side seams and press open.
Repeat on lining layer.

Pin lining to jacket around the outside edge right sides together
and stitch.

Pull right side out through arm holes and press.

Cut out a long straight piece of your fabric or a contrasting fabric about 4.5 inches wide
Fold over right sides together and stitch down 5/8 seam allowance and pull right side out.

Use ruffle foot to sew into a pleated trim.

Pin trim along the outside of your jacket and stitch down at the center.

Cut out top of sleeve

fold right sides together and stitch down.
Turn inside out and press.

Pin sleeve ruffle together at sides right side together.
Press and turn right side out.

Use ruffle foot to sew pleats in the top seam of sleeve ruffle.

Pin sleeve ruffle to sleeve bottom right sides together.
Turn right side out and press

Make ruffle trim as in previous step and pin around sleeve elbow.
Stitch down in center.

Pin sleeve top to Jacket right sides together and stitch together.
Turn right side out and press.

Turn under sleeve lining and hand stitch to hide raw edges inside the lining.

Hand stitch down beaded trim to the center of the decorative ruffle folding raw edges under at the ends and stitching down.

Now you have your own Jacket!