How to Make a Pull Out Pegboard Organizer

This pegboard organizer is a game changer! See that really narrow wall space above beside the cabinet? Our pull out pegboard organizer mounts into any narrow or hard to reach space. You can pull it right out to reach your supplies, then push it back in again out of the way.

This idea can be used anywhere you want to add a pegboard wall organizer in your home, but may not have the wall space to mount a traditional pegboard (we also show you how to build a slide out pegboard into a cupboard!). It's perfect for capturing wall space you didn’t even think you could use! It maximizes your storage space to store anything you'd like. I'm using it for craft supplies, but anything goes!

Watch the video above to see how it's done or continue on to the written Instructable!

• Pegboard (we upcycled ours)
• 24″ full extension soft close drawer slides (use whatever length for your own particular wall / pegboard size)
• Screws – long enough to drive into studs in drywall
• Chicago screws
• Plywood for riser/bottom spacer (build this to a height/width to fit your particular area)
• Circular saw, table saw or jig saw to cut pegboard if necessary
• Primer (we’re using Fresh Start by Benjamin Moore)
• Paint (we’re using PPG BreakThrough – Van Courtland Blue)
• ​320 grit sandpaper
• Mini paint roller
• Screwdriver, angle driver and cordless screwdriver

If you want to spray paint instead of roll:

• DeVillbis Spray Gun
• Porter Cable Air Compressor

Pegboard Accessories

• Talon hook set (Lee Valley Tools)
• Assorted pegboard hooks
• 1/4″ white Pegitz Pegboard Locks

In my old craft room I had several walls of pegboard tool storage. Unfortunately my craft room is much smaller now and I don’t have accessible wall space to hang pegboards.

So we did what any upcycler would do and came up with a compromise. We cut this pegboard down so we could mount it vertically onto slow close drawer slides.

Before we hang the pegboard we have to cut it to size and paint it! We used a circular saw to cut it. We went as large as possible given the space - just above the baseboard to an inch below the top of the wall.

While you're cutting, you also need cut a riser to lift the bottom of the pegboard to clear your basement. It's a simple construction using 3 pieces of wood (2 x 4's and 1 x 3's or any scrap you may have).

Build it tall enough so it sits above the baseboard and can't interfere with the sliding action. Measure the height of your baseboard and add 1/2". Cut two for the side pieces. The top will be the length of the wall (or width of the pegboard). Screw the wood together (then you can easily take it apart and use it for something else when done). Double check to ensure it's perfectly level when you screw it together.

The platform will keep the pegboard level and support it just above the baseboard so you don't need a extra pair of hands to hold it.

Pegboard is essentially made from MDF (medium density fibreboard) so should be painted for durability. In a previous post, my husband taught me how to paint using a spray gun (you can watch the video here). So we ended up spraying the top coat for this pegboard. However, for the primer, we’re rolling it on.

The last pic shows the pegboard after painting the good side blue. Place the pegboard face down on the table when you attach the glides (you’ll see the back side is white in the following pictures).

Where your wall studs lie beneath the dry wall will determine where you have the drill holes in the inner member of the metal drawer slide and also the pegboard itself. Make a note of the measurements for later.

Separate the inner and outer members of the drawer slides.

Since our pegboard is so tall, and will be loaded up with lots craft stuff, we used 3 drawer slides. Our slides are positioned 5″ from the top and bottom edge of the pegboard with one in the centre. Ensure the slides fall in between the pegboard holes and mark these spots with pencil so you know where to line up the drawer slides and drill in the next step.

Note that you might be able to use some of the pre-existing holes in the metal, but they have to be drilled bigger to accommodate the Chicago screws that will fasten the drawer slides to the pegboard.

Use a drill bit that will allow the Chicago screws to fit snuggly through the metal (and pegboard). Drill at least 3 holes along the length of the metal. This is where your stud wall measurements come into play; use them to determine where to drill. After drilling holes in the metal, transfer those marks onto the pegboard. Then drill through the pegboard in those spots. 

As you can see in the last pic, the holes will be smaller than the original pegboard holes to accommodate the width of the Chicago screw.

Use the Chicago screws to attach the metal to the pegboard. Put the post half through the top, then join the post section through the pegboard from underneath with the other half of the Chicago screw. You’ll need to tighten the screws with a screw driver when you’re ready to turn the pegboard right side up again (before attaching to the wall).

Prop the pegboard onto the platform you built earlier, making sure the pegboard is tight against the back corner of the wall.

Lean the pegboard forward to pull out the drawer slides. Since the first hole in the back is going to be screwed into a corner stud and could potentially hit the metal corner bead, pre drill first. Then screw each of the three the glides into the wall at the back with long screws.

Since this area is so narrow and such a tight squeeze, an angle driver is helpful to start the screws. However, stop short and finish the rest with a regular screw gun. Because the angle driver is powerful, it can easily strip the screw if you accidentally drive it in too far.

Luckily Hubs is skinny enough to fit into this tight space and we didn’t have to move out the end cabinet. If I had to do this, it would be a different story :). If you have a similar situation, you may have to move one of the cabinets out to gain some space to work. 

Once the back screws are installed, pull the drawer glides out until you reach the next set of holes that coincide with a stud.

Predrill and attach screws to the remaining studs.

A handle makes this sliding pegboard a dream to use. Find a handle that has holes to match the distance of the peg holes and attach it at a comfortable height. Hubs has a great tip about using electrical box screws for this; they are the perfect length for attaching to pegboard!

One method to keep pegboard hooks from falling out is to use shrink tubing and double up on it (which Hubs demonstrates on the video). We also went into depth on pegboard hooks and accessories in our last post. You can read more about the best pegboard hooks here (near the end of the post).

I have a great hack on how to store milk paint, which I'll write about in another Instructable for anyone who loves milk paint as much as I do. Now that narrow area is useful storage space with the pegboard craft organizer tucking away when I don’t need it.

I couldn't get a gif to load, so run the video attached to see the pegboard in motion!

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