How to Make a Cottage/fairy Core Dress

This instructable covers how to make a simple corset full circle dress in a cottage/fairy core style.

1. Satin fabric (10 yards) Our dress is made for someone who is 5ft (1.52m) and 7in (17.78cm) and we did not use all the fabric so 6 or 7 yards should be fine, but it is always good to have too much than too little.
2. Chiffon or tulle (10 yards) - Chiffon is generally less see-through than tulle (we used chiffon but either will work depending on the look you want)
3. Thread close to the color of your fabric.
4. A needle
5. (optionally) thin pins - sewing is doable without pins and it's okay if you don't have them, but it is usually much easier with them.
6. Thin ribbon
7. Sew through corset bones
8. A button
9. Beaded appliques
10. string
11. pen/pencil
12. Measuring tape (flexible)
13. chalk/pastel in a darker version of your fabric or white.
14. Paper
15. A bra or some sort of padding. This could be thin foam or something else. Whatever you use make sure it fits nicely.
16. Scissors (ones that can cut through fabric)
17. Flattening iron.
18. Hot glue or a candle (for ribbon ends)

Optional -

1. Full circle tulle petticoat
2. Sewing machine (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - it is possible to do this with just a thread and needle it will take a lot longer but it is doable. You also might need to fray-check all your edges on the fabric with some sort of fabric glue so it doesn't fray.)

NOTE: My friend and I made this together and it was very helpful to have someone to try on the skirt/bodice while the other one pins and modifies.

NOTE: Each of the things described below are explained in detail in the notes of the pictures, so click on the pictures to get a detailed explanation if you don't know how to do something. The photos are in the order that they are described below:

Threading the sewing machine:

We will be using a sewing machine by the brand Kenmore. Most sewing machines that aren't to high-tech thread similarly. Same with the bobbins.

The different stitches:

1. Sewing ribbon loops (not a stitch) - for all ribbon pieces on the dress either melt the ends or hot glue them so they will not unravel.
2. The latter stitch
3. Whipstitch
4. Gather stitch
5. Sewing buttons (not a stitch)

(Hand sewing refers to sewing without a sewing machine)

That covers the different techniques we will be using.

TIP: Iron your fabric before using it otherwise it could have weird cut marks in it or it won't fit as well. Before ironing do a test piece of your fabric to make sure it will not be damaged.

Every step coming up will contain 2 parts the bodice and the skirt:

1. The Skirt -

The skirt is comprised of two gathered circle skirts. In order to find the dimensions of the skirt use a circle skirt calculator. The calculator will tell you how big the skirt will be and how many yards will be needed for your skirt length. Keep in mind since this skirt will be gathered make your waste measurement 2 to 3 times larger to account for the ruffles. The skirt will start about 2in(5.08cm) to 3in(7.62cm) above your hip bones so measure from there to your feet for the length of your skirt. Once you have the measurements lay your fabric out and add the radius and your length together. Then cut a piece of string that length and the length of your radius (the circle skirt calculator usually adds seam allowance, but if it doesn't add 1in(2.54cm) to 2in(5.08cm) on all your measurements). Start with the longer string and tie it to a pen/pencil and the other end to your chalk/pastel. Mark the center of your circle and have someone hold the pen as you work from the top of the fabric to the other side creating a half circle. Then repeat this process with the shorter strong. Make two of these circles out of satin and two out of your tulle/Chiffon.

2. The Bodice -

The bodice is the harder of the two pieces because it is so tight-fitting. For this, you can wrap your torso in plastic wrap and then wrap the plastic wrap in tape. Draw lines where you want seams and carefully cut them off (be very, very careful). Another option is to take a tight-fitting garment that you own and use it as a pattern to modify with seams and bones. Since this corset is not going to fully function as a corset it is okay if it isn't perfectly tight in its fit and you can look for inspiration on where to place the seams. Every seam will be where a bone is placed, so the more seams, the more bones. No matter what technique you use, cut the pattern out of paper, line it up with the bra or padding you chose, and cut your pattern to fit around this part. Finally cut the pattern out of both of your fabrics with a little seam allowance. When cutting the pattern, it is helpful to label the panels in order. For the sleeves cut two rectangles your arm width multiplied by 4 or 5 and the length from your shoulder to your fingers.

1. The Skirt -

pin the pretty sides of your fabric together so you can't see them along the side seam. pin the circumference of the skirt about 3/4in(1.9cm) for hemming.

2. The bodice

Pin the satin fabric to the bra or padding all the way around the edges folding the fabric in the middle creating a triangle (this is called a dart). Don't pin the tulle or chiffon to the bra/padding yet. For the sleeves pin the linger edges together (make sure the sleeves are made out of tulle or chiffon only). Then at one end of the tube fold the edge over and pin down a 1in seem allowance. Finally, pin all the corset panels together.

TIP: This fabric loves to buckle because it is so tightly knit. In order to avoid this use a small needle are go very slowly. If it does buckle that means the needle pushed a thread into the fabric so gently stretch it to remove the line.

1. The Skirt

Sew the two sides seams that were pinned together (not the hemming that was pinned at the circumference of the skirt).

2. The Bodice

Sew each panel together making sure that on the satin the seams are on the pretty side and the seams on the not-so-pretty side for the chiffon/tulle. Then take both pieces and pin them together so the seams are facing out. Then sew along the pins (this should leave it so that the pretty side of the satin is facing out). Flip the corset inside out run a stitch along the bottom and iron the piece. Cut a long strip of chiffon/tulle 3 times as long as your bodice and run a gathering stitch through it. Sew the pretty sides of the bottom of the corset and the top of the ruffle together. Flip the ruffle down to reveal a beautiful seam and iron it (the iron is your friend). Set the corset bottom piece aside for now. On the bra/padding hand sew along the pins making sure to fold the loose fabric under as you go. Next pin the edge of the chiffon/tulle across the inside of the bra/padding and run a stitch across it. fold the fabric over and repeat the pinning process across the bottom. for the darts, you can fold the fabric in cooler ways if you would like to get a ripple effect. We folded the fabric twice to create a type of twist effect then used the latter stitch to hold it in place along with just hand sewing a couple of stitches at the top (do not stitch the bra/padding to the rest of the corset yet). For the sleeves sew along the needles (don't sew over them though).

Note: After this step, each element will have its own steps instead of being combined like the step above.

This corset does not have bone channels which allows the bones to look separate from the rest of the corset. The bones that we will use are ones that you can sew through. Start by measuring each of your seams and subtract 1in from each of these measurements. This will be the length of each bone. Now create a large rectangle for each of these bones and sew the rectangle to the edge of the bone making sure that the fabric is longer than the seam. Sew the opposite end of the fabric to the seam. role the bone up in the fabric and stitch it down. For a neater look stitch both sides of the bone down, but since we wanted to make it look a little more worn down and starting to fray in some places we did not stitch over the bottom of the bone and only stitched down the center to allow it to fray a little. Lastly, fold the excess fabric over the edge of the corset and hand-stitch it so that the thread does not show to the other side. After all the bones are in place hand stitch the bra/padding to the rest of the corset.

Sew along the pins you placed at the circumference of each skirt. Then fold it over once more and sew it again. This will allow for a clean finish. At the opening of the skirt run a gathering stitch around each skirt and tie it off at your waist circumference leaving a gap to add a closure. Cut a slit where that gap is and hem the sides. Add a button to one side and a ribbon loop to the other. Lastly, hem both skirts together at the waste line to make one skirt (since this will be covered by the bodice you do not need to hem it twice unless you want to).

On the corset sew equal amounts of the ribbon loops on either side of the openings each one 1in apart. you can mark this with chalk. I ended up with 7 on each side. Then take an extra long ribbon and thread the loops like shoe laces. For the sleeves thread a ribbon through the small sleeve at the top. Later stitch them to the corset so the ribbon is at the top of your shoulder. I suggest putting the corset on and pinning the sleeves to it from there so you have the most accurate stitching job. The bodice is finished, YAY!

Put the skirt on to see where it sits on you if it is too big put a fold into the waistline and pin it. Then take it back to the sewing machine and sew it down. After it fits you well put the skirt back on and pin your appliques to where you want them. My friend and I wanted them to look more like vines and patches so the biggest appliques come out of the waistline. If you want more of a look where the flowers are growing up the dress pin them at the bottom. it is also okay to cut your appliques to make them look nicer, but be sure that you do not cut the main piece of the applique because it could unravel.

Whip stitch around the tops of your appliques if you have them coming from the top. If you have them coming from the bottom whip stitch around the entire applique. The skirt is complete!

If you would like you can attach the bodice to the skirt by marking with chalk/pastel where things will line up then sewing the pretty side of the waistband to the pretty side of the bodice. Another option is leaving them separate which is what we chose to do because then the top can be worn separately with something else. Both are equally as awesome though.

This is mostly for the sleeves. You can wear them off the shoulder and gather them with a ribbon around the wrist, or you can to the ribbons behind your neck so the sleeves are on the shoulder. Lastly, you can just let them hang without any ties. There are so many ways you can do this! it's all up to personal preference. Enjoy!