How to Make a Camera

Did you know that you can make a usable camera by using the waste around you? Although the camera looks complicated, the basic structure is actually very simple. As long as a black box with small holes allows light from objects outside the box to pass through the small holes and fall on the photosensitive material for imaging, it becomes the most basic camera. Usually, we know there are brands of campark cameras and GoPro cameras. Follow the method described below to make a pinhole camera made of cardboard or metal.

Choose a clean container about the size of a normal camera. For example, you can use old paint cans, oatmeal packaging buckets, shoe boxes, or coffee cans. Ensure that the top of the container can be tightly sealed.

You can also cover the entire container with aluminum foil, but make sure that there are no gaps. These covering packages are to prevent any light reflection inside the container.

Make sure you coat all walls of the container. Let the paint dry completely before proceeding to the next step. If the paint cracks and falls off before the camera is used, be sure to repaint it before taking the picture.

The distance between the film and the pinhole will affect the shooting of the photo. The position of the film is on the opposite side of the pinhole, so if it is a can, the pinhole should be opened on the lid.

The size of the pinhole is important because it determines whether the final photo is clear. If it is a can with a length of 7.5 cm to 15 cm, it is just right to insert half of the No. 10 sewing needle into a pinhole. The needle hole should be as round as possible. When perforating, you can turn the sewing needle to make the needle hole more round.

You can directly use a needle to perforate the can, or you can cut a 1.3cm×1.3cm square at the bottom, then use a needle to perforate the paper or metal sheet, and then stick the paper or sheet on the square hole. The second method generally works better, because you can make a perfect circle, and if you fail, you can try again.

If you choose the second method, prepare a thick black paper or thin metal sheet and punch holes in the middle of the square. Then use a strong tape (such as electrical tape) to stick to the square hole. Sturdy aluminum foil, metal film on food packaging, or cardboard are all fine, as long as the second method can be used. Observe whether the pinhole is round enough from the end of the camera where the film is placed. Make sure that the image you see from the pinhole is clear. Observing a page of printed matter is a good way to detect it.

Thick cardboard that does not transmit light is best to use. Make sure that the paper is thick enough so that it won’t wrinkle during use.

Cut a piece of about 5×5cm square black thick cardboard. The cardboard should be large enough to completely cover the pinholes on the can. Tape the jammed paper along a line above the pinhole. Use strong tape, such as electrical tape.

(Electrical tape works well, but it sticks too tightly). When you are not taking pictures, stick the piece of tape at the bottom of the jam to prevent outside light from entering the camera.

The function of the viewfinder is to simulate the geometric relationship between the film and the pinhole. The photographer can use the viewfinder to understand what the photo will look like in the end.

The front viewfinder should mimic the shape of the film and be directly mounted on the pinhole. Secure with strong tape or hot melt glue. The rear viewfinder should be installed above the camera as a peephole to allow the photographer to understand the final effect of the photo. The peephole can be made of sheet metal or cardboard. Make a round hole on it and stick it on the rear viewfinder with strong tape. In order to better shoot objects within 1.5m, you can place the object at a position lower than the viewfinder, and then use the viewfinder to compare the difference between vision and pinhole angle observation.

If you choose photo paper, then you need to fill it under special light conditions.

Photo paper must be installed under the light of a safety light or a flashlight filtered by at least three layers of red cellophane. The flashlight and the photo paper must be kept at a distance of 2-2.5m, so hang the flashlight on the ceiling and work underneath, so that it can meet the requirements. Unlike photographic paper, the film must be filled in a completely dark environment. Before really trying it in a completely dark environment, use a piece of paper to practice filling your camera in a bright environment, and then close your eyes to find the feeling of filling the film.

You may have to cut the film to a smaller size. The size of the film is determined by the overall size of the camera.

For cameras made of ordinary cans, the film can be cut into a size of 6cm-9cm. For a camera made from a 3.8-liter paint can, the film can be cut into 10cm-12.5cm. A camera made from a 0.9kg coffee can requires 5.7cm-8.3cm film. These sizes are also suitable for photo paper. It is best to use bulk film if possible, because it is flatter and easier to handle. When cutting film or photo paper, the environment must be completely dark. A closet with no gaps for light transmission is a good place. If you are still not sure about the ratio of the size of the film to the camera, you would rather cut the film larger. It can be trimmed continuously during use

Load the photo paper or film into the other end of the camera pinhole. .

In total darkness, stick a piece of tape on the back of the film or photo paper to make the film into a roll. You may also need to stick tape on the four corners of the film to make sure it will not fall apart. Never stick tape on the front of the film because it will damage the film and hinder imaging. Make sure that the photosensitive side of the photo paper faces the pinhole. The photosensitive surface is reflective, which can be distinguished by this. The photosensitive surface should be rolled inside when the photo paper was rolled in the previous step. If you still don't know which side is the photosensitive side, then wet your fingers and touch the two sides at the corners of the film. It feels that the sticky side is the photosensitive side.

Ensure that your camera is completely cut off from light. Any cracks and openings must be sealed with black cardboard, aluminum foil or black tape, otherwise even a trace of light will ruin your photos.

You can simply place it on a table, counter, or any flat surface, or fix it on a tripod with a rubber band. The sensitivity of the shutter is limited, so the camera must be extremely stable when taking pictures.

For film, it only takes a few seconds to expose, but photographic paper may take several minutes.

If you are using film, the exposure time is determined by the sensitivity of the film. The higher the sensitivity, the shorter the exposure time. A film with a sensitivity of 400 generally needs to be exposed for 2-12 seconds, and the length of time also depends on the external light conditions. If it is a film with a sensitivity of 100, the exposure time will be extended to 8-48 seconds. For film with a sensitivity of 50, the exposure time is about 16-36 or 60 seconds. If you are using photo paper, the exposure time is 1 minute to several minutes. There are even specially made long-exposure photographic papers, and the exposure time is a few months! You have to practice deciding the exposure time of a photo, but remember a rule of thumb about exposure time: the brighter the outside light, the shorter the exposure time.

Remember, when estimating the distance between the pinhole and the viewfinder, aim the object a bit lower than you can see.

Remove the tape under the shutter to let light pass through the pinhole. Be careful in this step and don't let the other parts of the camera shake.

If the exposure time is from a few minutes to a few hours, you can use tape to stick the shutter to the open position so that you don't have to keep the shutter closed by holding it with your hands. If the location of the photo is windy, you can put some weight on the camera, such as briquetting a rock.

When the exposure time is up, but the shutter down and glue it again, and still don't let any light pass through the pinhole. During the time that the shutter is open, an image has been formed on the film or photo paper. The remaining work is to develop the photos.