How to Make a 3D Printed Wearable Omnitrix

If you watched Ben 10 growing up, you’ve probably imagined what it would feel like to slap down on the Omnitrix and transform into one of those cool alien heroes. I know I did. So instead of waiting for aliens to drop one into my backyard, I decided to design and build my own using Fusion 360 and a 3D printer.

This isn’t just a prop; it’s wearable, customizable, and it actually looks like it belongs on your wrist. I wanted to make something that was both fun to build and fun to wear. Whether you're into cosplay, CAD design, or just want to learn something new and flex your skills, this project has something for you.

Through this project, I learned a lot about designing, multi-part modeling in Fusion, 3D printing techniques (like using tree supports and multicolor swaps), and finishing techniques that take your prints from basic to badass. It’s a fun build, a great weekend project, and yeah, you’ll feel like a hero when it’s done. This build is my way of mixing tech and nostalgia, and trust me, by the end of this, you’re gonna wish you had a transformation sequence too.

1. Fusion 360
2. Cura (or your preferred slicer)
3. 3D Printer
4. PLA filament
5. Sandpaper
6. Craft knife or flush cutters (to remove supports)

1. I started with a Top Plane sketch and drew a large circle (50mm diameter) to form the base of the watch. This size fits most wrists without feeling too bulky or too small.
2. Using Extrude, I gave the circle a thickness of about 10mm to give it that solid, chunky Omnitrix feel.
3. On top of the base, I created a smaller raised platform right in the center, which is where the iconic green hourglass dial would sit. I extruded it slightly higher (about 2–3mm) to make it pop.
4. For the dial shape, I created a new sketch on the top face of that raised platform. I drew one half of the hourglass, mirrored it, then used Offset and Extrude to bring the shape to life.
5. I added side knobs to mimic the show, just simple cylinders extruded from the sides of the base. These give the watch a more functional, techy vibe.
6. For the straps, instead of printing them separately, I designed curved extensions with gaps on both sides of the base so that I could loop in Velcro or elastic after printing. This keeps the design fully wearable without needing extra hardware. Also, if you think the wrist size is too small to fit you, then you can make some modification to the design and adjust the strap size.
7. I used the Fillet tool to round off sharp edges, especially where the watch touches your wrist, so it’s comfortable to wear.
8. Even though this is a single model, I wanted it to look like it had multiple components. So I assigned black and green materials in Fusion 360 using the Appearance tab. This helped me visualize where I’d later do the filament swap during printing, black for the main body, and bright green for the dial.

1. Once I finished designing the Omnitrix in Fusion 360, I wanted to see what it would look like in real life, not just as a gray model. So before exporting for printing, I used the Render workspace to create a polished preview with the colors I planned to use: black for the body, and green for the hourglass dial. This step isn’t mandatory, but it really helps to catch small design mistakes and also makes your project look more professional when you share it.
2. After assigning colors, I adjusted the lighting and angle to get a clean view and hit Render.
3. Fusion gives you a few quality options, I went with Final quality (Standard) for a clear snapshot of what the real print might look like.
4. Once I was happy with the render, I went back to the Design workspace and selected the full body component.
5. I right-clicked the component name in the browser and chose “Save as STL”.
6. Make sure to select “One file per body” and “High refinement” for better resolution

1. Now that the STL was ready, it was time to prepare it for printing, This is where slicing comes in. I used Ultimaker Cura, which is free and works well for standard FDM printers, even if you only have one extruder. Since I wanted to print my Omnitrix with two colors (black and green) in one go, I had to plan the slice carefully to know exactly when to change filament.
2. I laid the part flat on the bed so the bottom surface would stick well and the dial would print on top.
3. Cura automatically oriented it correctly, but I double-checked that the dial was facing up. this is important because we’ll be swapping filament partway through the print.
4. Layer height: 0.2 mm
5. Wall line count: 3 (for better strength)
6. Infill: 15% (you can go higher if you want it more solid)
7. Supports: Not needed (my model was flat and support-free!)
8. Print speed: 50 mm/s
9. Material: PLA
10. Nozzle temp: 200°C
11. Bed temp: 60°C
12. Build plate adhesion: Brim (just in case)
13. Here’s the cool part, even with a basic single-extruder printer, you can still do multicolor. I used Cura’s “Pause at Height” feature to pause the print right when the green dial started, so I could manually swap from black to green filament.
14. In Cura, after slicing, I clicked the “Preview” tab.
15. I dragged the layer slider to watch the print build up, and found the layer where the dial begins.
16. For me, it was around Layer 42, but it’ll depend on your specific model and slicing settings.
17. I went to Extensions → Post-Processing → Modify G-Code.
18. Clicked “Add a script” → “Pause at height”.
19. Entered the exact layer number, selected Z-axis height, and added a custom pause message like:
20. "Swap to green filament for the dial."
21. Saved and re-sliced the model.
22. When the printer hit that layer, it paused. I unloaded the black filament, loaded green, purged a little, and hit resume. Simple!

1. This is the moment when all your design and slicing work turns into something real. I used my 3D printer with just a single extruder and pulled off a clean two-color print with a simple filament swap, no fancy hardware needed.
2. The Omnitrix model I designed was a one-piece print with the dial and body fused, so I just had to make sure the printer paused at the right moment for me to change colors.
3. The printer ran through the first half of the model in black filament, which includes the base, sides, strap slots, and bottom part of the dial.
4. When it reached the Pause at Layer Height command (set in Step 3), the printer automatically paused and moved the nozzle aside.
5. I unloaded the black filament and carefully loaded neon green PLA.
6. I purged a bit of filament manually until I saw clean green coming out, then hit resume.
7. Total Print Time: ~5.5 hours
8. The part came off the bed cleanly and needed almost no supports or cleanup.
9. The filament transition was sharp and well-aligned, thanks to the pause command and good layer planning.
10. The dial looked crisp in green, and the black body gave it that high-contrast, authentic vibe.

1. Once the print finished and cooled down, I removed it from the print bed and got to work on cleaning it up and getting it ready to wear. Even though the print came out great thanks to the multicolor swap, some cleanup was still necessary, especially around edges and tiny features.
2. This step makes all the difference between a rough 3D print and something that feels nice to wear on your wrist.
3. First, I removed the brim by gently peeling it away with my fingers. If yours sticks more, use a craft knife or flush cutters to clean around the base.
4. I checked for any stringing or extra filament blobs, especially near the dial and side knobs, and carefully trimmed them with a hobby knife.
5. Then I lightly sanded the part using 220 grit sandpaper to remove small bumps and layer lines.
6. For smoother finishing, I followed up with 400 grit and a quick polish using a cloth.
7. I paid extra attention to the edges near the wrist area, so it wouldn’t scratch when worn.
8. You could also use an elastic band, or if you’re feeling fancy, design and print a TPU strap (if your printer supports flexible filament).
9. I tried the Omnitrix on to make sure the fit felt good. If it’s a bit tight or loose, you can easily adjust the size in Fusion 360 by changing the base diameter or strap gap spacing, then reprint.

1. Now that the Omnitrix is cleaned up and wearable, it’s time to add some polish, literally. These last details bring the whole thing to life and make it feel like something that belongs in the Ben 10 universe.
2. After the first round of sanding (in Step 5), I used extra-fine 800 grit sandpaper to get an even smoother finish on the dial.
3. Then I wiped everything down with a clean microfiber cloth to remove dust and give it a subtle shine.
4. For extra flair, I used a clear acrylic spray coat. This gave the Omnitrix a bit of gloss and made the green dial really pop under the light.
5. Just spray in thin, even layers and let it dry fully between coats.
6. Optional but awesome: I painted the side knobs with a metallic silver acrylic pen just to make them stand out more.
7. And if you want to go full-on alien upgrade mode:
8. You can glue a small green LED under the dial (if you left a gap or cavity in your design).
9. Add a battery holder underneath with a switch if you want it to light up on command.

That’s it! You’ve officially built your own wearable, 3D printed Omnitrix, designed from scratch, printed with two colors, sanded, cleaned, polished, and strapped on your wrist. It’s lightweight, durable, and guaranteed to get reactions from anyone who grew up with Ben 10.

You can now:

1. Wear it to a con or costume event
2. Show it off in your maker community
3. Or just keep it on your desk as the coolest reminder of what you can make when you combine CAD, creativity, and a little nostalgia