How to Make 7-Panel Cap
by ProperFit Clothing in Craft > Fashion
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How to Make 7-Panel Cap
Step by step instructions plus pro TIPS! With video tutorial in case you get stuck along the way.
Video Instructions
Here is the video. Feel free to check it out if you get stuck.
Supply List
-LINK to Pattern: http://capsupplyco.com/index.php?route=product/pro...
-LINK to BRIMS: http://capsupplyco.com/index.php?rout...
-LINK to Sewing machine Singer 4423 https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Polyester/Cotton Twill Fabric By The Yard Here: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Bias tape folder attachment: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Bias Tape: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Grommet press + Eyelets: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
Cutting Pattern
-Trace the 4 panels onto the fabric.
-Cut out. You should end up with 1 front, 2 side, 2 top front panels, and 2 panels.
(TIP: Be sure to mark the top of the front panel.)
Trace and Cut
-Trace the 4 panels onto the fabric.
-Cut out. You should end up with 2 front, 2 side, 2 top front, and 2 back panels.
(TIP: Be sure to mark the panels F,S, and B. This helps with mixing the panels up.)
(TIP: Also it is a good idea to mark the sides of the panels. This will let you know what panels need to be sewn together.)
-Place the wrong side of the front panel down on the adhesive side.
-Only apply the interfacing to the front panel.
-Use iron to apply the interfacing.
-Cut off remaining interfacing around the panel.
(TIP: Use a sheet of paper to help iron on the interfacing. This will keep your iron and work station clean.)
(TIP: We are using a heavy weight interfacing designed specifically for cap making. This interfacing helps keep the front panels structured. Use the heaviest weight interfacing for most professional results.)
Front to Panels
-Add interfacing to the top two panels.
-This is done the same way as the previous step.
Top Front Panels
-Place the the right sides together and stitch with .25 seam allowance.
-Trim the seam allowance.
Setting Up Bias Tape
-Place the twin needle into the domestic machine.
-Switch machine to zigzag stitch with 0 width.
-Add folder on to the machine. We used tape because our folder is designed for a industrial sewing machine.
-We show two different folders. They both make the same fold and will have to be taped onto a domestic machine. The yellow one is linked in the list of supplies and the industrial one is available at capsupplyco.com
-Thread the machine with two spools of thread and you are good to go! Thread both spools on the same exact path.
(TIP: Use the same color thread as the fabric. This is will help cover up imperfections.)
(TIP: It is easy to cut your own bias tape. Determine the required width of the folder you are using. Place fabric on place surface and cut diagonally to the fold.)
(TIP: Use a rotary blade and mat for best results.)
Top Front Panels Top Stitch
-Take the top two panels.
-Place the seam in the middle of the twin needle and sew all the way through.
Front Panel to Front Top Panels
-Take the front panel and place the right side to the front top panels.
-Sew along the top edge.
-Trim the seam allowance.
Top Stitch Front Seam
-Place the seam in the center of the twin needle.
-Sew all the way though.
Back Two Panels
-Grab the back two panels.
-Place right sides together.
-Sew along the top edge.
Sewing Side Panel to Front Section
-Take one side panel and place the right side to one edge of the front panel section.
-Make sure you are using the right edge of the side panel.
-Sew along the edge.
-Trim the seam allowance.
Back Two Side Panels to Side Panel
-Take the opposite side panel. Place the right side to the right side of the back panel.
-Sew along the edge.
-Trim the seam allowance.
Top Stitch Remaining Seams
-With the folder into position and the bias tape cut.
-Feed the bias tape trough the folder.
-Top stitch the remaining the seams.
-There should be two on the back half and one on the front half.
(TIP: Cut the bias tape long enough to cover all seams. This will save to time in the long run.)
(TIP: Using this method will cover up the inside raw edge and leave a professional twin top stitch on the outside.)
Sew Crown Together
-Place the right sides of the crown together.
-Line up and sew all the way across.
-Trim the allowance.
(TIP: Keep a hold on the center while sewing. This will help keep the panels aligned and meet in the middle.)
(TIP: Be sure to trim the extra fabric in the center. This is the area where you install the cover button. You will want minimal fabric in this area.)
Adding Bias Tape to Center Seam
-Just like in the previous bias tape step.
-Place the seam in the center of the twin needles and begin to sew.
(TIP: Add enough bias tape to cover entire seam in once go.)
(TIP: Getting the crown stage down may take a few attempts. Do not get discouraged. Practice makes perfect!)
Making Bias Tape
-Using the bias tape kit. Pick the side you would like to use.
-Cut the fabric for the size folder.
-Feed the fabric through the folder and begin to pull the folder with iron trailing.
-You will end up with a double fold tape ready to cover up the back arch opening.
Attaching the Bias Tape
-Take the crown and the bias tape.
-The bias tape kit comes with a presser foot guide. You can use this to help attach the bias tape onto the raw edge.
-We attached it without the presser foot. Fold the tape in half and place it over the raw edge. Go slow and be sure you are sewing all layers.
Adding Size Strip
-Take the size strip and sew it on the inside of the crown along the bottom.
-Sew directly in the center of the size strip.
(TIP: The size strip helps give support and structure to the bottom edge. It is key component for making a quality cap.)
(TIP: If you are on a budget. Use heavy weight paper. I recommend not skipping this step.)
Making Brim Sleeve
-Place the brim you are using onto the fabric.
-Trace the front curve.
(TIP: Trace past the end of the brim. This will give you extra room to work the brim into position.)
-Stitch directly on the trace line.
(TIP: The closer to the inside you stitch, the tighter the fabric will set on the brim.)
-Cut about .25 inches from the seam around the outside edge.
(TIP: Leaving .25 inches will help the brim set on one side of the sleeve. This will make the front edge of the brim seam look straight.)
-Flip sleeve right side out and insert the brim.
(TIP: Slide the brim on one half of he seam allowance. The seam allowance will act as a guide.)
Locking Brim Into Position
-Make sure the brim is in the sleeve nice and snug.
-Stitch along the back curve of the brim.
(TIP: Use zipper or narrow presser foot to sew along the back edge of the brim. This will help get your stitch as close as possible to the edge of the brim.)
(TIP: Pull the back half of the fabric away from the needle as you sew. This will help keep the fabric tight on the brim.)
Brim Stitching
-When the brim is sew into the sleeve.
-Stitch on top of the brim near the outside edge. This will secure the fabric even more.
-We are using a brim guide. This guide is build for a industrial sewing machine so we had to lock it down with tape. The guide helps with getting parallel stitches around the brim.
-Cut back access fabric about .5 inches from the brim.
(TIP: For perfect stitch lines around the brim you should consider using a guide or block. Something you can use to keep the brim moving in one motion around the curve.)
(TIP: Use the same color thread as fabric. This will help make the stitch lines look straighter and uniform.)
Attaching Brim to Crown
-Mark the center of the brim. Match it with the center front seam.
-Place right sides together and sew from the center towards the outside edges. Repeat for the other half of brim.
(TIP: By starting in the center. This will help keep the brim positioned in the center of the crown as you sew.)
(TIP: Use a zipper/narrow presser foot to help get as close as possible to the edge of the brim.)
Attaching the Sweatband
-We made a guide out of heavy stock paper. Make sure it fits the sweatband nice and snug. This will keep the sweatband from moving around while sewing.
-Tape the guide on the machine.
-Roll the edge of the crown over so the wrong side of the sweatband is touching the right side of the crown. Begin to sew.
-This process will attach the sweatband and also provide a top stitch.
-Leave about a inch of extra sweatband.
(TIP: Roll the size strip over. This is the perfect amount for attaching the sweatband. Use the size strip as a guide.)
(TIP: Use a zipper/narrow presser foot and start sewing around the bottom attaching the sweatband. Keep as close to the edge of the sweatband as possible.)
(TIP: You can also make your own sweatbands by folding fabric in half or you can buy premade professional ones at capsupplyco.com. We use the premade sweatband because they are cut on the bias. This helps them curve around your head with out bunching up.)
Adding Back Closure
-Take your desired closure. Capsupplyco.com offers a wide variety of closures to take your cap to the next level.
-Fold the sweatband into the cap. Sandwich the plastic snap in between the sweatband and crown.
-Stitch into place and repeat this process for the other half.
Adding Cover Button
-Cut small circle of fabric that will fit around the top of the cover button.
-Fold the fabric circle around the top piece. Place the middle prong connector inside the top button. This will lock the fabric into place.
-Take the prongs. Place them into the press and press button into position. You will want this to be in the center of the cap where all the panels meet.
-If you do not have a press you can just push the prong end up into the center of the cap. Then hammer the top into position.
(TIP: Make sure the prong is in the center of the crown. Always start with the prong. Once you see the prongs poke trough the cap. Then you can add the top button on.)
(TIP: Use a rubber hammer mallet. Place the button side on a soft surface. Hit the prong side with the mallet. This will prevent the cover button from being smashed.)
Adding Vents
-We are using eyelets for vents.
-Mark and cut one hole in each panel.
-Place the eyelets in the holes and use grommet press to secure the eyelets into position. If you do not have a press. Pliers work just as good and they are available at any fabric/hobby store.
(TIP: The pattern comes with hole positions. Remember to mark these when you are tracing the pattern.)
(TIP: For even spacing. Use a seam guide and measure from the cover button. This will help you keep the same spacing all the way around the cap.)
Cap Is Complete!
Thank you so much for reading our instructable! If you get stuck be sure to peek at the video for help! We will be adding more instructables in the future!