How to Install a Webasto Air Top 2000 Heater in a Camper Van Conversion

The Webasto AirTop 2000 ST/STC is fueled from the main vehicle tank. Fuel consumption is low (0.03 to 0.06 gal/h), electricity consumption is low as well (1.25A to 2.45A on average, more during startup) and there is no humidity added in the van resulting from the combustion as opposed to propane heaters such as the popular Mr. Heater Big Buddy.

We installed the Webasto under the passenger seat.

We listed all the steps in this Instructable, but head over here for all the material list (with links to products), tools, lessons learned, issues we had with the Webasto, models comparison (STC vs ST) and more:

http://faroutride.com/air-heater-installation/.

This is not rocket science, but it's not that easy either; there are a lot of does and don't (such as pipe length restriction, maximum radius turn, etc, etc). MAKE SURE TO READ THE MANUAL! Or have it installed by a professional to make sure the warranty will be honored.

We hope this helps, don't hesitate to ask questions if you feel like it! Cheers!

• Webasto Air Top 2000 with installation kit & MultiControl
• 1x Aluminum sheet 0.062″ thick (to make a flat surface)
• PlusNut 1/4-20 (optional to avoid drilling new holes in the van structure)
• 2x Bolt M8x1.25 30mm length (to use existing tapped hole in the van structure
• 1x Ford Gasoline Auxiliary Fuel Port Kit (to tap into the fuel tank using the auxiliary port)
• 3/8″ I.D. Fuel Line 8′-10′ length (check your installation for adequate length)
• 5/16″ I.D. Fuel Line 1′ length (connect from Auxiliary Fuel Port to 1/4″ fuel line)
• 1x Heat Shield Sleeve 1″ diameter (¾” diameter would probably work) 36″ length
• Primer
• Kleen-Flo RustProof
• Intake Silencer (optional)
• Exhaust Silencer (optional)

All the links for the products above are here: http://faroutride.com/air-heater-installation/

The Ford Transit has 4 screws to remove

The unit MUST lie on a flat surface for the gasket to be effective!

First, make sure the heater unit will not clash with the seat base. TRIPLE-CHECK before drilling any hole!

The exhaust is routed so the gas are dumped OUTSIDE the van edge. This is to avoid carbon monoxide from pooling under the van AND to ensure the exhaust gas does not get sucked back into the intake! We install a silencer at the intake, this will act as a dust filter so that the combustion chamber does not block.

We used a heat shield where the fuel line crossed above the van exhaust.

To gain access to the auxiliary fuel port, the tank must be lowered.
We drove the van until about 10 miles to empty (the tank is surprisingly lightweight at this point). Then we put a toolbox under the tank and removed the 6 screws holding the tank. No need to detach the fuel lines (they are flexible). We lowered the tank until we were able to detach the protective fuel cap on the auxiliary fuel port.

Yes, it is possible to attach everything despite the tight space!

It is so tight that we had to use a gear wrench to complete the job, 1/8 turn at a time...

Install the provided protective screen to the cabin cold-air intake (as stated in the manual)

*Different controllers requires different harness! Ensure you have the appropriate one or it will not work…

The unit requires 3-4 starts for the fuel to get pumped all the way to the unit, so we got 3 faulty starts before it actually worked. Also, when ambient air temperature is above 77F, the unit starts then shutoff immediately for self-protection…

If using the MultiControl 7 Days Timer, the device must be programmed first following these instructions:

http://faroutride.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/M...

We're documenting thoroughly our van conversion! We tried to capture every details and share our experience, tips, lessons learned, etc.

This is our Build Journal: http://faroutride.com/ford-transit-camper-van/bui...

Or if you're very new to this, you might want to look here: http://faroutride.com/van-conversion-resources/

Thanks for reading!