How to Create a Lidded Cup With Epoxy Line

Using your imagination to make things

I
had a piece of Spalted Oak that I chose because I was getting low on dry wood. The first think I did was to remove all of the bark with a chisel and a wooden mallet. I found the center then mounted it to the lathe

On the
left side I created the tendon to mount on my chuck with a Bedan or you can use the tool you are accustom to. Then using a large 2” roughing gouge, I made the surface as round and true as possible at about 1000-1200 rpm: Note, by laying the roughing gouge over the top of the turned surface and the gouge does not jump or jitter, then you have a rather true round surface

I noticed some small cracks at the end of the piece, so I
took my dremel tool and made a wide valley going from the top of the piece to about 3/4th way down. I wrapped the piece with Saran wrap. Then I taped the entire wood with blue painters tape.

I mixed 10cc of epoxy and 10cc of hardener, stirred for 5 min then added the color to the resin and stirred until well mixed. It is important to follow the mixing directions. Since most of my projects are small I use the small 30cc-30ml cups. I bought them on line rather cheap. The mixture was then poured into the holes.

I let the wood to set for close to 48 hours to make sure
the epoxy would cure completely.

I put the chuck and I note, never remove the wood from the chuck until you are completely done with your project, as this keeps the trueness of the round.

I worked the end cap to the way I wanted it to look, in this case I chose round top. Some times I will to a concave top. Next step the cup lip was turned to 2 ¾” diameter. To make sure that the inside hole of the cup is 2 ¾” in diameter I took a sharp pencil to mark the diameter on the lower piece

I then created to base of the turned wood into a cove and
slight ring and base. You can create anything you like from a stem to what is shown here.

I sanded the piece with sand paper starting with 220 grit going each step to 2000 grit.

This is important as each grit removes the grooves of the lathing tool and each of the grits before. I have my lathe in reverse and at 220-250 rpm. I touch the grit lightly and no more than 1 minute at the most. I stop ever so often to check the work. When the 1000 and 2000 grit is about to occur, I use mineral oil on the grit, as this settles the wood fibers and creates a smooth surface. That is left to for overnight for the wood to absorb the oil. At this point I decided to use Polyurethane gloss type. Each application, I let it dry overnight. After the first and second application I use the greed or gray Scotch Brite pad very lightly at no more than 240 rpm in the reverse position of the lather. When I apply the varnish, I have the lathe in reverse with the lowest setting and my 2” oil brush that I use just for this. I give the wood 5 layers of varnish with the last 2 or 3 without using the scotch brite pad.

At this point I use a thin parting tool to separate the
cap from the body. Then the hollowing begins. I used a 2” forstner bit attached to an arbor key chuck. In this case I drilled 2 ½” hole in the wood.

I used a swan neck hollower to make the lip opening to
fit the lip of the top piece. The use of protractors and calipers come in handy to assist you in the sizes you use.

Your imagination is your best tool. You can get ideas but in the end it is how you cut the piece, how you prepare the wood for the final finish, and the finish itself. I have made many mistakes and by changing the cut I am able to cover up my mistakes. It’s about having fun.