How to Create a Bound Buttonhole

Bound buttonholes are lovely, especially on jackets/blazers of a woolen material.

Many couture garments have this treatment for buttonholes, and can
actually be easier than using your sewing machine's button-hole foot.

As I was working on this latest jacket, I though it would be a great opportunity to share this technique, and demonstrate how easy it is to do.

Using your button and a scrap of the fashion fabric, decide how big the opening should be for the button, by cutting a slit and feeding your button through. My particular buttons fed snug but easily through a 1" slit.

(first photo) Your pattern will indicate where the buttonholes should go. Cut facing scraps on the bias about 2" high, 3" wide. On the outside of the jacket, pin them over the buttonhole area, then mark where buttonholes should be, using pins or mark b gone. Hand-baste along where the slash should be with bright fabric.

(second photo) Bring to sewing machine and sew a rectangle 1/8" around slash basting, locking stitching. Remove basting.

(third photo) Using a seam ripper, carefully poke through at each corner, and cut diagonally 1/8", then cut horizontal slash with small scissors. Your opening should look like two y's connected at each bottom.

(first photo) Pull facing through hole to inside of jacket.

(second photo) Fold facing in half, pinching at bottom, hand-sew a horizontal line from buttonhole to each edge, creating a pleat. This "closes" up the hole, and gives that beautiful dimensional look.

(third photo) Iron facing flat, then trim about 3/8" off top and bottom. Secure facing to jacket by catch stitching entire edge.

(fourth photo) Repeat with each buttonhole.

That's it. A handsome opening for your buttons.

Looks especially nice if your jacket has welted pockets.

Feel free to ask questions within the comment section below.

Happy Sewing!

~ Cynthia