How-To Rear Disc Brake Job

Hello! This page is devoted to doing the REAR disc brakes on a 2002-2005 Hyundai Sonata, but it’s the same general idea for any disc-brake setup.

Disc Brakes are pretty easy, as long as you have the right tools, and take your time!

First you'll need some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil.  This breaks the rust/corrosion off and lets you crack the bolts free without breaking them off.  You'll also need a silicone grease or anti seize for the caliper bolts, pins, and new pads.  You'll need a caliper compression tool, or a sturdy C-clamp, and a can of brake parts cleaner.

Brake dust is extremely hazardous to your help, I recommend washing down the oil brake parts before dismantling anything, to keep the dust from getting in your lungs.

 Let's Get Started!

1) Jack up the car, put it on a jackstand, and remove the wheel. (Release e-brake)

2) Stare at the brakes a while, get familiar with the parts.

3) Spray the PB Blaster on the two caliper bolts (back of caliper, top and bottom) and the two Bracket Bolts (back of bracket)  Both are 14mm for the sonata.  Let that stuff sit for 10 minutes or so.

4) Unbolt the Caliper, and tie a bungee cord around it to the upper A-Arm or another sturdy piece of metal.  (Make sure it doesn't pull on or put stress on the brake line!)

5) Unbolt the Pad Holder, and remove the old pads.  Make sure the new pads are the same size and shape as the old ones.

6) Check the rotors to make sure they're the same as well.  Parts store employees sometimes mess up…

 

7) This is what it looks like when you remove the rotor.  The e-brake is a mechanical brake, which pulls those blue shaded shoes against the inside of the "drum" portion of the rear disc.  They can get stuck, or rusted a bit, so lightly tap the drum and the backside of the rotor with a rubber mallet or hammer.  There is a rubber grommet covering the e-brake adjuster if you really need to dial back the e-brake, and/or you can back off the nut of the cable under the center console.

8) Examine inside of old rotors for scoring/damage from e-brake mechanisms

9) Laugh at pathetic old pads.

10)  Many rotors come with a little screw that holds the rotor flush with the hub.  Some people say it's not necessary, but use an IMPACT SCREWDRIVER or it may strip out.  Be sure to use anti-seize when re-applying the screw.

 

 

11) Grease the sliders and back of the pads nicely.  This cuts down on noise, and extends the life of the pads.  The slider pins must gently be pulled out (be careful of the boots!) and cleaned/ greased as well.

12) Push pads into the Pad Holder, align curve of pads with curve in rotor drum.

13) Take top of the brake master cylinder, and use the rental tool to compress the caliper piston back to allow room for the thicker new pads.  Be sure that there isn't brake fluid leaking, or that the boot is torn.  Ask for assistance if you don't know how to use this tool.  A small C-clamp works too, but isn't as accurate.

 

 

 

14) Check caliper, make sure no strain is on it, and install the Pad Holder (grease those bolts!) and pads.

15) Reinstall the rubber grommet, screw (if you haven't done so already), and push pads flush with the rotor.  Make sure the rotor spins freely and doesn't bind (some scraping noise is okay with new brakes)

16) Bolt on the caliper, 20-30 foot lbs (pretty tight) and you're done.

17) Put the top back on the brake master cylinder and BEFORE YOU TURN ON THE CAR, slowly push the brake pedal to the floor.  Release, repeat, release, repeat, release, repeat (until you get a firm pedal).  This is to let the caliper piston push again the pads completely.

18) Enjoy a nice beverage and toast your work and money saved.

 Original Pads after 70k Miles.  Nice.

 

*Remember - Front Pads and Rotors wear 2x as fast as the rears.  Don't be surprised to replace the fronts a lot more than the rears!