Homemade Two-phase Brushless 24 Volt

In this instruction, I did not insert photos, I think in the video I showed everything in detail.

Hi all! This project was inspired by a visit to a metal collection point. This time I came across a disassembled radiator cooling fan of the first, or maybe the seventh VAZ model. This find included:

1 - a rotor covered with plastic for twenty teeth with good, deep grooves, however, without a wire. Someone coiled a copper wire for the purpose of profit.

2 - the shaft on which the bearing was pressed in very good condition, just like from the store, with absolutely no play.

3 - there was a cover on the bearing and the most necessary thing for future homemade work is a stator with four magnets.

A wild idea came up, not to restore the motor, but to try to assemble the engine practically from industrial parts, though topsy-turvy. Well, let's say that the rotor becomes a stator and vice versa, the stator turns into a rotor and, as a result, all this works. The magnets are in the cylinder, well fixed. The cylinder is inserted and fixed into the cover on the ledges. When I spun the cylinder, the magnets did not touch the metal during rotation. If it were not for the extra weight of the future rotor, one could try to risk putting everything together on one bearing.

So I had to look for another support. Pay attention to the collector. If you choose the right bearing, you can, as they say, kill two birds with one stone. The design of the collector itself is such a strong mixture of plastic and copper lamellas. And if you drill a through hole in the plastic, then without much hassle, the wires from the coils can be brought out, bypassing the rotating parts.

I climbed into the pantry and found a suitable bearing that was not killed, the outer diameter was fifty-five, the inner diameter was thirty. Tried on, a little does not fit. The collector has thirty mm and three tens. So it seems like a landing tolerance and nothing, but I didn’t want to press in with a hammer or by heating. You never know you have to take it off, put it on in the process of fitting parts when assembling in a project.

So, it is necessary to adjust the collector to thirty millimeters. I didn’t go to the turners with this problem, they would laugh. I clamped the shaft into the Shurik chuck and, using the cover on the bearing as a support, with a file, with intermediate measurements, machined it so that the bearing could be put on with little effort.To my surprise, the bearing sits on the shaft without distortion. The stator is ready, it's time to work on the rotor.

One side of the cylinder with magnets has a secure fit with the motor cover, the other must somehow be tied to the embedded bearing. At first, there was an idea to make a similar cover like the original, either from wood or plastic. I even almost went to the turners to turn it from metal. But the toad honestly choked. The idea came after watching car racing. I decided to use bolts as spokes, well, just like a Ferrari has three pieces. I glued the paper, marked out three identical sizes. At the risks, I drilled holes with a five-millimeter drill. I tightened the tap into the screwdriver chuck by six and slowly, dipping it in oil, cut a thread in three millimeter metal. Then I tightened three 6x40 bolts, put all the parts together and adjusted the position of the rotor so that there was the same distance between the stator and the magnets, and it was 0.5 millimeters. The first stage of creating the project has been overcome. I did not particularly strain, without investing, blinded the mechanics of the future electric motor. Sticking is practically non-existent.

I borrowed the microcircuit responsible for the distribution of the magnetic field in the coils from a computer fan, the Chinese slightly smeared the inscription on the case, but I think that all the mikruhi in them are the same. The first leg is a plus, the second and third are phase terminals, the fourth is a minus.

For fun, I tested how the magnetic field switches the minus on the outputs using LEDs. Everything is fine. Then I tried to change the magnetic field from the sides of the magnets, at the same time I also placed the microcircuit with an edge. The LEDs worked great. You can wind the coils of electromagnets. There are twenty teeth on the stator, four teeth completely fill the magnet, without further ado, I laid two meters on two teeth and two and a half meters on the sides of the first two. It would be possible to cram more, but there was not enough copper. The coils were laid with a double wire 0.45 mm thick, four magnets were obtained. If the first magnet was wound clockwise, then the second one was against, then clockwise and again against. At the end, the windings rang, the insulation is not broken, the case does not ring. I connected the beginning of the first wire to the end of the second wire, I connect this connection to the positive contact of the battery, and the remaining two to pins two and three of the microcircuit. Moreover, by changing their places, we change the direction of rotation of the stator. The coils are connected in antiphase.

I placed the microcircuit between the coils directly on the native board. To bring the wires out, I drilled a through hole in the plastic body of the collector measuring seven millimeters and carefully removed them. The assembly is completed, I tried to spin it, voltage was generated, which means that the design can also be used as a generator. I checked the microcircuit when the rotor rotated, the LEDs blinked like a Christmas tree.

I start the engine with the help of mosfets, suddenly the transistors burn into the microcircuit. The assembly is simple, I took it from a previous project.When twelve volts were applied, the rotor spun silently. It turned out to be a copy of a computer fan, only bigger and cooler. I tried to stop the rotor with my finger, Well, if you strain, then, although with difficulty, this can be achieved. Although the motor tried very hard to show its strength. And yet, no matter how much I strained it, the wires always remained cold. At idle, the ammeter showed 3 A.

To improve performance, I think you can increase the voltage, or increase the copper cross section in the coils. This time I will use the first option.

He took out another battery, connected it in series and got twenty-four volts. Put voltage on the motor. The rotation increased about twice, I tried to slow down the rotor with my finger, it didn’t work, the motor, together with the improvised bed, tried to jump out of my hand, even if I fixed it.