Hexagonal Frame

I like hexagonal frames for some projects. The first photo above shows a hexagonal frame constructed using these instructions.

SAFETY

These instructions require power equipment. Using power equipment is a high risk activity. Safety must always be your primary goal. No final product is worth an injury. Remember, SAFETY FIRST.

Dimensions:

*** How long is each side of a hexagonal frame when compared to width? Each side of a regular hexagonal frame equals the radius, that is, the distance from exact center of the frame to a corner. A regular hexagon is six equilateral triangles put together. The second photo above shows this relationship of hexagon and equilateral triangle.

Wood

For this frame I used pine which I prepared on my router. I have not included any photos showing that part.

TOOLS

Mitre saw

Table saw

Tenoning jig for table saw (optional)

Band saw (optional)

Belt sander (optional)

Strap clamp - modified for 6 corners

Sandpaper

Each cut with the mitre saw must be 60 degrees. I set my mitre saw so that I could cut both ends of each frame piece without readjusting the blade. I like to use a stop when cutting several pieces the same length, but was unable to do so because the pieces were too long. I made a mark on my mitre saw to indicate the length.

I cut one end, rotated the frame piece 180 degrees, set it up to the mark and cut the other end. Practice this on scrap so you can get good results.

Here again, I strongly emphasize the need for SAFETY. Wear goggles and a dust mask. Keep your hands away from the blade.

The first photo shows the frame before gluing with an extra piece nearby. While glue dries, I hold the frame together with a modified strap clamp. The strap clamp was set up for four corners, but I modified it so it can hold six sides.

In order to strengthen the corners, I install a spline in each. There are two good ways to cut slots for the splines. Both ways work well.

1. Attach a fence on a table saw sled and clamp your frame to that fence. Adjust, cut, move frame, then adjust and cut again.

2. I use a tenoning jig to hold the frame in place for cutting. This also works well.

Cut thin wood on your table saw to be splines. Install splines with glue.

Trim the splines on a table saw or band saw. Do not try to cut exactly next to the frame. You don't want to score the frame. I used a belt sander for sanding, but it could be done on a hand-held sander or even by hand.

The first photo above shows the frame after sanding but before applying top coat. The second photo shows frame with a coat of Danish Oil.