Heated Gloves Version 3 (caution: See Note)

NOTE: I've experienced problems with the carbon attachment method in this Instructable the temperature at solder joints can rise to 240F. You should use the copper ferrule crimping method illustrated in the link below. That technique is easier and can't act as a heat coil if the solder isn't perfect.

A further refinement of my previous design which is simpler to build with smaller and stronger electrical connections. To reduce clutter in this tutorial I left some of the techniques for working with carbon heat rope in a separate Instructable. https://www.instructables.com/Working-With-Carbon-Heat-Rope/

I've made another version that uses a USB-C power bank to power both gloves. That project also shows how to build a small controller with variable output Heated Gloves Ver 3.5. I also have a separate Instructable for just the controller Heated Clothing Controller.

For many people like myself keeping our fingers warm while outside during the winter poses a constant challenge. More acutely for those of us who suffer from Raynaud's where our body cuts off circulation to the extremities in response to cold exposure. A further complication arises when engaging in an activity such as cycling that requires grasping objects, compressing glove palm insulation reducing its effectiveness. Chemical warmers are bulky, often don't fit inside regular gloves and may not get heat to the fingers where it is needed.

The solution, a pair of thin liners with battery powered heat delivered to all 5 digits that you can slide into your favorite glove! The heat is generated from carbon fiber rope attached a glove of your choice.

Items you may need to order along with links to sample items:

• Carbon Heat Rope: Approximately 1 meter (might as well get extra incase you run into a problem)
• Liner Glove of your choice
• Construction steps will make the gloves slightly smaller inside, so it is best to choose a liner that isn't super tight
• For this version of the project I used a heavier windproof glove
• 24 or 22 AWG Highly Flexible Silicone Covered Hookup Wire: 24 is better for this ver of glove
• Double Sided Fabric Tape
• This comes in sheets and rolls. I find the sheets easier to use since they have backing on both sides making them easier to cut. When cutting the rolled tape it sticks to scissors. The roll tape pieces also curl before sticking them down.
• Liquid Electrical Tape
• Thin polyester fabric
• A thin poly spandex blend with some stretch, prices vary wildly but a local fabric store should have something on sale, remnants, etc
• I've just been cutting up an old pair of stretch thermal underwear or bike shorts
• 2 x 7.4V battery packs (see battery section)

Optional items depending on design choices. Many of the electronic components can be found inexpensively on Banggood or AliExpress.

• Thermostat Switches x 2
• Power Connectors (varies with battery selection)
• Flashlight Push Switches x 2
• Multi-Setting Power Controller x 2
• Mini PWM Motor Controller / LED Dimmer x 2
• USB Type C PD Trigger 9V x 2
• USB Type C male to male dongle x 2
• 22 AWG silicone parallel conductor wire (for extension cables)

Tools:

• Soldering iron and solder
• Solder flux
• Pliers
• Small wire snips

Optional Tools:

• Grabber test leads
• Infrared Thermometer
• 3rd hand soldering clamp
• Multimeter that can measure current (amps)
• Multimeter temperature probe

This project involves attaching carbon fiber heating loops to a pair of gloves and wiring each to a 7.4 volt battery. The temperature generated drops as the length increases which is why separate loops are connected in parallel. Since we are creating an electronic circuit the carbon fiber cannot cross itself.

• Gloves are turned inside out
• Heating loops are prepared by attaching wires to carbon fiber rope
• Heating loops are attached to glove using double-sided fabric tape and a cover fabric
• Wires and optional thermostat are connected

A switch, power plug and thermostat may also be added depending on how you plan on using the gloves.

Heat

The heat produced by the carbon fiber rope rapidly increases as the length decreases so you need to be careful to avoid making a heating loop that is too short otherwise dangerously hot temperatures can be achieved.

The carbon heat rope linked to in the shopping is a loose weave of 12 smaller bundles of fibers. By separating the smaller ropes and using several as a group a shorter loop can be created without generating too much heat. This is done for the thumb loop.

Voltage also affects how hot the heating loops will get. The instructions provided here assume a 7.4V battery is used. Heating loop lengths would need to be shortened if using a 5V USB power bank and lengthened if using higher voltages. I have not used these voltages, the charts on this page can be used as reference: https://www.carbonheater.us/temperature.htm

It is generally good practice to use a thermostat switch or multi-setting power controller to limit the peak temperature rather than connecting a glove directly to a battery.

Battery Life

Measuring the amperage of the heat circuits can help determine the battery life. The glove made draws 1.3 amps, so would run continuously up to 2 hours with a 2600 mah battery. Though with a controller they wouldn't be drawing power continuously.

Heating loops are sized and wires added before they are attached to the gloves. Each glove uses 2 heating loops wired in parallel as a single loop would be too long to get warm enough. The loop for the fingers is broken into two wired sections using full thickness carbon rope. The thumb loop uses 3 of the 12 bundles of fibers to dial back the temperature which would be otherwise be too hot because of its shorter length.

See this Instructable for connecting wire to carbon rope:

https://www.instructables.com/Working-With-Carbon-Heat-Rope/

Gloves

While preparing the heating loops it will be helpful to have the gloves present to checking necessary wire length

• Turn gloves inside out

Finger Loops

The finger loop for each glove should have 34 cm of carbon fiber, two 17 cm pieces bridged by a wire. An additional wire is connected on each end to provide power. Refer to the diagram to see where connections are required.

• Cut 2 x 18 cm lengths of carbon fiber heat rope (extra length to accommodate trimming)

Since all carbon fiber ends will be at the tip of a finger the wires will run parallel to the rope, have the wire in that orientation when making the connection

• Using the glove as a guide measure a length of wire long enough to go from the tip of the middle finger to the tip of the ring finger with about 1 cm of extra on each end for wire stripping
• Cut two more pieces of wire for power supply. Its best to make these around 20 cm to give you options when it comes time to route them later. Choosing 2 separate colors is helpful for grouping the positive and negative connections
• Attach the wires to the carbon rope using the technique shown at the linked page at the top of this section
• Trim excess, test heat loop, then apply liquid electrical tape over solder connection
• Repeat to create a finger loop for the second glove

Thumb Loops

The thumb loop for each glove uses a 22 cm length containing 3 of the carbon bundles that make up the rope.

• Cut a 23 cm length of carbon fiber heat rope (again extra length accommodates trimming)
• Squeeze about an inch from one end of the rope to separate the bundles
• Slowly pull one bundle until the rope begins to bunch up
• Use one hand to gently propagate the bunch downward until the rope is straight again
• Slowly pull the individual bundle again until it comes out
• Repeat until all bundles are separated, it will be much easier once the first 2 bundles are removed

The wires for the thumb loops are attached in a more traditional orientation since they don't need to run parallel to the heat loops

• Cut 2 pieces of wire for the thumb loop power supply. Again be sure to provide enough slack for routing. And it helps to have different colors for positive and negative
• Take 3 of the separated carbon bundles as a group and attach a wire to each end
• Trim excess wire at solder joint, test loop and apply liquid electric tape to connection

Testing

Before attaching the heat loops to the gloves this is a good time to test them for functionality, heat output and current draw. The fabric adhesive is very strong and it would be very difficult to get access to the heat loops once installed.

Take care to not have the loops overlapping themselves or each other causing a short while testing. Again refer to the following Instructable for testing advice: https://www.instructables.com/Working-With-Carbon-Heat-Rope/

Using double-sided fabric tape and fabric we will create sealed pockets to contain the heat loops and wiring.

Preparing to Attach

• Cut strips of fabric tape (peel the backing from one side to apply, leaving the other backing in place)
• Apply tape to the outside edge and tip of each of the 4 fingers leaving a gap down the middle wide enough for the heat rope
• Apply a piece of tape down the center of the thumb, stopping short of the tip
• Cut a strip of fabric for each digit large enough to provide some overlap

Attaching Finger Loops

• Starting with the pinkie, peel the tape backing from the finger tip and one side
• Carefully place the heat loop flat with the wire to the outside, and solder connection resting on the tape at the tip of finger
• Lay strip of fabric over the finger
• Double check loop alignment, peel other side of tape and finish laying down the fabric strip
• Proceed with the remaining fingers keeping the rope flat, and wire on correct side

Attaching Thumb Loop

Since the thumb loop goes both up and down the thumb it is attached a little differently to keep from shorting itself.

• Remove the tape backing and lay down the fabric strip
• Fold the fabric toward the middle
• Add additional pieces of tape to the tip and outer edges of the thumb leaving a gap for the heat rope
• Place the heat rope and pull gently against the inner fabric island
• The thumb loop is fairly long. I tend to leave all the excess on one side. It can either be laid out onto the palm, or wrapped around a thermal switch (if used)
• Peel tape backing and lay the fabric down

Connecting Power Lead

• Prepare the wire that will go to your power source. I usually cut a small hole in the back of the glove to pass the wire through, though depending on the glove you may not want to do this. Keep in mind the glove is currently inside out so the connector end should exit from what appears like the inside.

The wires need to be transitioned from the palm side of the glove to the back with a little slack. While doing this it can be helpful to temporary tape down the wires along the desired path .

• Trim the wires from one end of each heat loop and connect to the appropriate wire to the battery connector, soldering the joint
• Repeat for the other battery polarity
• Seal the soldered connection with liquid electrical tape

Closing up the Glove

• Cut a piece of fabric large enough to cover the wires / carbon on the palm area, with enough excess on the side to wrap around where the wires transition to the back of the glove
• With the palm side up, place strips of fabric tape bordering the paths of wire / heat loops to seal them within their own pockets.
• Pay attention to areas like the thumb loop excess carbon so that carbon can't fold over itself or touch another carbon loop creating intermittent shorts
• Peel off the tape backing and lay the fabric over top
• Place additional tape on the side of the glove, peel the backing and seal the side wires
• Place tape around the wires on the back of the hand where they exit the glove and cover with fabric
• Trim the excess fabric leaving a small border so your hand doesn't come into contact with adhesive

Finishing Up

• Feel around the border of the fabric and add any additional pieces of tape if necessary
• Turn the gloves right way out

Each glove is powered by a 7.4V battery pack. I suspect the current draw would be too much to run 2 gloves from a single battery. They are available in lithium polymer or higher capacity lithium ion. Many suitable batteries can be found on AliExpress, some even include built-in multiple power level output. You can choose to either make the lead wires long enough to reach your battery, or install a DC barrel connector on the glove and make an extension cable that goes to the battery. Pick the option works best for you.

An extension cable might be the best option for many people. Run cables through the sleeves of a jacket to an internal pocket.

Another option is to run each glove off a USB battery pack. Standard USB is 5V so for a given heating loop length will be cooler than when using 7.4V. Many USB Type C power banks support Power Delivery (PD) which allows them to deliver 9V. To access 9V you will need a USB Type C PD Trigger module and wire. 9V will provide much more heat, so the heating loop lengths would need to be increased to avoid making the gloves dangerously hot.

Power Controller / Switch

There are several multi-setting heated clothing controllers available through AliExpress, some can be connected inline with a battery pack, while others can be incorporated into the glove itself or have connectors soldered to them.

A mini PWM motor controller / LED dimmer can also be used to adjust the heat output. This provides much more control but would need to be built into a housing of some sort.

Glove Connector

Attach a male DC barrel connector to the glove that matches the jack of the battery. Common sizes are 5.5 x 2.1 mm, and 3.5 x 1.35 mm.

Then you should be ready to go enjoy several hours of heated hands out doors.

Having started using the gloves I decided to share some thoughts on my experience with them.

Heat

At 7.4V they generate A LOT of heat, too much to run on maximum power. But the medium / low settings for the controllers I'm using they are quite nice. The design uses the full carbon rope to make the loops easier to assemble since you don't have to work with as many loose fiber bundles. However using half of the 12 bundles would probably bring the heat down to a more reasonable level. Loop length determines peak temperature, but number of bundles determines the wattage, sort of like a garden hose vs fire hose.

At 5V the heat is low enough to run straight from a battery without a controller. So with a USB to DC jack adapter you could run them from a USB power bank.

Battery Placement

I originally intended to have the battery / controller attached to the end of my jacket sleeves with velcro. However the weight of even my small 7.4V LiPo batteries flopped around too much. Instead I used fabric tape to add internal battery pockets in my jacket, and cable guides down the inside of the sleeves for extension cables. I left the glove controllers attached to the sleeves for easy access. With connectors on the controller I also have the option of placing them with the battery and plugging the gloves directly into the extension cable.

If adding cable guides the fabric tape needs to be spaced about 1.5x the width of the cable connector or it will be too tight to fish it through (discovered that the hard way). For battery pockets it is best to have the battery in place when you lay down the fabric to ensure the pocket is large enough.

Ergonomics & Usage

I quickly realized why most heated gloves have integrated batteries. Joining the connectors ends up being something you have to do one handed. The cable needs to be long enough to still reach the controller as you pull them off (I've taken to wrapping the excess around my wrist while plugging them in). If you need to remove the glove temporarily you have to hold onto it the entire time in order to avoid having to plug it back in.

I intended from the start to layer with this glove so I put the controller high enough up on the jacket sleeve that I could still access it with the outer glove on.

DIY Heat Controller Option

An option that provide a wide range of temperature control is a PWM motor controller / LED dimmer. These controllers pulse the power on / off at rates varying between 0% and 99% (clicks to off in far left position). I wired one of these along with an LED (with resistor) into a small project box (I also added a push button on/off switch). Even when using a 9V power source which makes the gloves too hot to use with my other controller I was able to dial the heat right back.

The PWM controllers provide a more even heat than the 3 setting push button controllers which have longer on / off cycles. The main draw back is that these controllers are inherently bulkier.

USB Power Banks

The push button 3 setting controllers have some issues with power banks. Most power banks go to sleep if power is not being drawn. The push controllers need power in order for the push button to work, however they don't draw enough power to keep the power bank from going to sleep. Even if the controller is turned on, the power bank will go to sleep if you haven't plugged the glove in yet. So if using a power bank with one of those controllers you need be able to easily push the power bank wake up button. I'm able to push it through my jacket if I have the button facing outward.

The PWM controller I built keeps the power bank awake and doesn't have that issue.

USB Type C Power Delivery (PD) 9V

USB Power Banks with a Type C connector that support the Power Delivery feature can output alternate voltages above the standard USB 5V. To access this higher voltage you will need a USB Type C PD trigger / decoy for the desired voltage. 9V is marginally hotter than a fully charged 7.4V battery which peak at 8.4V. Unlike bare batteries USB PD delivers a regulated 9V instead of starting higher and gradually falling back. This option could be a good alternative to sourcing single purpose battery packs, if heat loop lengths were increased to bring the max temperature back down. I'll probably make a version of this Instructable for 9V since I bought some of the modules. Doing a test with a PWM controller and my current glove I was able to dial back the heat to a very low level even at 9V. Since this version of the glove is already very hot I recommend against using 9V without a PWM controller.

Using the PD modules with the 3 setting button controllers may not be practical. When I did some tests with my power bank I observed that the voltage starts at standard 5V before switching to the higher voltage after 15 seconds. During the switch the power if briefly cut off which resets the controller turning it off. If the glove is not immediately turned back on the power bank goes to sleep. So every time you need to turn the heat on, you would have to turn it on twice with a 15 second wait.

Sourcing Components

Several of the electronic components only seem to be available through AliExpress, Banggood or ebay. I'll provide a few sample links below as there are often many similar variations so it can be tricky to find the exact item through search terms alone. Most components have multiple sellers. Keep an eye on shipping price when you use these sites, some sellers multiply the shipping for each individual component even if they are tiny.

• Female DC Power Jack Plug Socket Connector 3.5 x 1.35mm - For one end of extension cables. These were very hard to find, most are pre-molded onto a wire requiring splicing.
• Female DC Power Jack Socket Panel 3.5 x 1.35mm - Useful if building a controller in a small project box. Compact and nut secures it in place.
• Male DC Power Connector 3.5x1.35mm - These are a lot more common.
• USB 2.0 Male to DC 3.5 x 1.35mm Female Socket - Connecting to 5V USB power bank.
• DC Motor Speed Control PWM LED Dimming 5-16V - Many sellers for this one "5-16V pwm" is enough to bring them up. This appears to be the most compact one available. Has screw terminals, no soldering required. The 4.5-35V ones have large capacitors on the board.
• USB Type C PD Decoy - These listings usually sell various voltages. Sometimes the different voltages are listed as alternate "colors".
• USB Type C Male to Male Coupler - USB Type C power banks and PD decoys both have female sockets so a male coupler is needed.