Heat, Melt, Connect: Soldering Made Simple, Your Step-by-Step Beginner Course

Master the art of soldering with confidence! This Soldering Starter Tutorial includes step-by-step guides, videos, tips, & beginner-friendly exercises to help you build your wearable technology and maker projects.

This is a comprehensive post - so that means it might be longer than a typical Instructable. But if you want to learn about soldering for wearable tech, then this is the post for you.

For this tutorial, it's great if you join in! You'll need:

1. a soldering iron
2. solder - I prefer lead free solder
3. a protoboard, prefboard, etc...
4. random resistors for soldering
5. a stand for your soldering iron
6. brass for cleaning your solder iron tip

Additional items you may want:

1. tip tinner
2. flux

Types of Soldering:

Let’s explore two common types of soldering:

1. Through-Hole Soldering: Perfect for beginners, as it involves inserting component leads into holes on a circuit board and soldering them in place.
2. Surface Mount Soldering (SMD): A more advanced technique where components are placed directly onto the board's surface. This allows you to make your creations smaller and smaller - but we don't need that just yet.

This instructable focuses on through-hole soldering—an ideal starting point for anyone new to soldering. By the end, you’ll have the skills and confidence to tackle your own projects!

Soldering Basics

Soldering is a technique used to join metal pieces, such as wires, by adding a fusible alloy (solder) that melts at a lower temperature than the metals being joined. The solder acts as the glue holding the connection together, forming a permanent and conductive bond between the two components.

To ensure the connection is strong, it needs to pass a pull test—a method to check if the soldered joint can withstand pulling force without breaking. Once we finish soldering our items, we'll perform this test to confirm the durability of the connections.

Solder typically consists of a mix of tin, lead, and flux. However, I recommend using lead-free solder, as lead-based solder poses health risks, is harmful to the environment, and is simply not worth the danger.

Soldering requires skill and dexterity—a challenge I enjoy! To practice and build your technique, start with old components or inexpensive resistors, which are perfect for honing your skills.

Let’s take a closer look at the tools and materials you’ll need to get started with soldering.

On the left side of the image, you’ll find all the essentials for soldering: a roll (spool) of solder, a brass cleaning sponge paired with a tip cleaner/tinner, an additional tip cleaner, small 24 AWG silicone wires, my trusty Miniware portable soldering iron, and spare tips in various styles to suit different tasks. On the right of the photo, everything is neatly packed into a portable box for convenience. I love being able to take my solder iron to wherever I am so I have things packed in a little box. You might not be bringing your tools everywhere, but it is good idea to store things together.

Also included is a USB-powered mini solder fan that efficiently pulls fumes away as you work, ensuring a safer and more pleasant soldering experience.

These tools provide a solid starting point for understanding the basics of soldering. From here, you can explore and customize your toolkit to suit your specific needs and projects.

Now, let’s dive in and set up your solder station for success!

Tools and Components

To get started, you’ll need:

1. A soldering iron a basic model is great, or you might have one with temperature control.
2. Solder (lead-free is a great option).
3. A pref board (practice board) and some basic components like resistors.
4. Optional but helpful tools: helping hands, a stand, and a damp sponge for cleaning the iron.
5. I usually have a few other tools and items when I solder, so I will talk you through those, but they aren't needed when you are learning the basics.

Important: Safety First:

⚠️Soldering is fun and rewarding, but safety is key. Here's what to keep in mind:

1. Work in a Well-Ventilated Area: Good airflow or fume extraction is essential to avoid inhaling solder fumes.
2. Wear Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from any potential splatter.
3. Handle the Soldering Iron with Care: Always hold it by the handle and avoid touching the hot tip.
4. Dispose of Solder Scraps Safely: Collect scraps in a designated container and follow local disposal guidelines.

Before we start soldering, let’s get familiar with the essential tools. Having the right equipment not only makes soldering easier but also improves the quality of your connections.

1. The Soldering Iron – Your Best Friend in Soldering

Your soldering iron is the key tool that heats up solder and fuses components together. Here’s what to look for:

1. Temperature Control: If possible, get an iron with adjustable temperature—this will help with precision and avoid overheating components. But a first solder iron doesn't need this, and it will work just fine without. In fact one of my all-time favourite soldering irons (shown in the photo, Antex with the yellow handle) didn't have temperature control and I still use it from time to time.
2. You can also buy soldering kits which can be good value, they typically include the solder iron, solder, a holder for your iron, and other various items.
3. Handling: Always hold the soldering iron like a pen for control, and never touch the tip—it gets extremely hot.

2. Solder – The Material That Holds Everything Together

Solder is a metal alloy that melts to create strong, conductive joints. Beginners should focus on:

1. Lead-Free vs. Leaded Solder: Lead-free is safer, but always check your heat, typically lead free has a higher temperature.

Leaded solder melts more easily but must be handled with care. I have now pretty much entirely swapped over to lead-free.

⚠️ Breathing in fumes with lead is a hazard not worth taking.

This solder is in a tube, which I love, you touch it less and can control the amount. You can buy it in this form or the spool, which tends to have more so it can be better value for money. Don't go too thin when you start - I would suggest trying a few different thicknesses, which can all come in handy depending on your projects.

1. Solder is often sold as 60/40, meaning it contains a mix of 60% tin and 40% lead. This type, called soft solder, has a melting point of approximately 180–190 degrees Celsius, making it ideal for general electronics work.
2. Lead-free solder is an environmentally responsible alternative that became more common after regulations limiting lead in products were introduced. While lead-free solder has a higher melting point compared to its lead-based counterpart, it’s a safer choice for both your health and the environment.
3. Another variety you’ll encounter is flux core solder, which contains a reducing agent at its center. As you solder, the flux is released to improve the flow of the solder, resulting in a cleaner, more reliable connection. Flux is commonly made from rosin and plays a key role in ensuring strong joins.

Size & Type:

1. You can purchase solder in large spools and various widths to suit your needs. For wearables and small components, a solder with a diameter of 0.75 mm to 1.0 mm is ideal. This size offers precision and control, reducing the risk of using too much solder.
2. Using solder that’s too thick may result in excessive application, creating a bridge between connections unintentionally. Bridging happens when solder forms an electrical connection between adjacent components that shouldn’t be connected, which can lead to circuit failures or short circuits. You can use your multimeter to test whether you have bridged your solder joins.

By choosing the right width for your solder, you'll ensure clean, accurate joins that work perfectly for wearable electronics projects. Use thin solder (around 0.8mm or 1mm) for small electronics—it’s easier to control.

1. I recommend getting 0.75 mm thickness, lead-free solder, in the handy solder tube format. Look out for Antex, Duratool, Draper, and other brand names that are good quality.

Understanding Flux for Soldering

1. Flux is a chemical that plays a crucial role in the soldering process. It is used to prepare the surface of the item being soldered by removing oxides that may hinder the formation of a strong solder joint. By cleaning and conditioning the surface, flux ensures a smoother soldering experience and promotes better flow and adhesion of the solder to the components being joined.
2. Flux comes in a variety of forms, including solid, paste, and liquid. It’s available in convenient formats like tins or pens, making it easy to apply directly to the specific areas you want to solder. For lead-free solder, which can sometimes be challenging to work with, flux is especially beneficial as it helps improve the flow and ensures cleaner, more reliable connections.

1. The flux tin or jars can be good for dipping a wire in to coat it.
2. Some flux varieties will need cleaning off the surfaces, so look for no-clean as a preferred type – though it is still recommended that you wipe your board off after using flux.
3. You can use isopropyl alcohol to clean a circuit board. There is a flux pen made by Chip Quik that is lead-free and it’s a reliable brand. This pen-style flux should last you a long time, depending on how often you solder.
4. With flux, you’ll find soldering easier and more effective, making it a must-have in your toolkit!

Solid core on the right, and multi stranded, multicore on the left.

Understanding Wires in Electronics

Wires are essential for carrying current to the components in a circuit. Depending on the purpose of your project, you’ll find various types of wires, each with unique characteristics.

Solid Core Wire

1. Solid core wire consists of a single strand of metal, making it ideal for breadboards. Its rigidity allows it to be easily bent and inserted into breadboard holes, where it stays securely in place. This type of wire is great for static or fixed circuits.

Multicore (Stranded) Wire

1. Stranded wire, made up of multiple thin strands of metal, is more flexible than solid core wire, making it perfect for circuits with moving parts. However, when inserting stranded wire into a breadboard, you’ll need to twist the strands together to keep them aligned.
2. Even so, it can sometimes be tricky to push all the strands through the breadboard holes, and a few may remain on top. To improve usability, you can tin the twisted strands by covering them with a thin layer of solder, which helps hold them together and makes insertion easier.
3. One downside of stranded wire is that its flexibility increases the risk of accidental connections, where stray strands may bridge areas they shouldn’t. Despite this, its adaptability makes it invaluable for wearable projects and circuits with dynamic elements.

🤍 Silicone Wire for Wearables

1. Silicone wires are highly recommended for wearable electronics. Their soft, super-flexible coating provides comfort and ease of use, and they’re available in vibrant colors, often sold in convenient packs with multiple spools.
2. These wires are perfect for soldering wearable designs.
3. I use this almost exclusively!

Wire Gauge

1. Wires are measured by their American Wire Gauge (AWG), which indicates their diameter and current-carrying capacity. For most wearable and breadboarding applications, 22 AWG (0.644 mm) and 24 AWG (0.511 mm) wires work well. Solid core wires are perfect for breadboarding, while silicone wires are ideal for soldering and integrating into wearable projects.

Heat Shrink Tubing: An Essential for Advancing Your Soldering

1. Heat shrink tubing is a versatile plastic tube used to insulate soldered connections and wires. It provides protection and stability, making the connections less fragile. The tubing is slightly larger than the wires or components it’s meant to cover, allowing it to slide over the connection easily before heat is applied.

To shrink the tubing, use a hot air gun for even heating and a professional finish. While some people use a lighter, this method can result in uneven heating or even burn the tubing, so it’s best to avoid it. (you can even use a hair dryer if you are stuck)

The image illustrates the process, showing a NeoPixel (WS2812b LEDs) with wires soldered to it, covered with heat shrink tubing before and after heating.

1. There are two types of heat shrink tubing available:
2. Single-wall tubing: Ideal for standard insulation.
3. Dual-wall tubing: Includes adhesive inside, providing waterproofing and added durability when shrunk into place.
4. Heat shrink tubing contracts tightly around the wires but doesn’t typically shrink in length. For convenience and versatility, I recommend starting with a variety pack that includes different sizes and colors. Black and red are commonly used, but clear tubing is especially useful as it allows you to inspect the soldered connection in case it comes apart.
5. Whether for wearables or general electronics, heat shrink tubing is a must-have for your soldering toolkit!

There are a few tools that will make soldering and component work much easier. For example, to cut wire, you’ll need cutters, and to manipulate components and wire, you’ll need pliers. I use flush side cutters for cutting wire and for cutting the ends of wire after I’ve soldered.

1. This gets right up close against the circuit board and allows for a clean cut.
2. Needle nose pliers are great for getting into small areas and doing small jobs. The pair from Engineer has a rounded tip so you can use these for winding your component legs into circles so you can sew them.
3. The flat nose pliers have flat edges so are great for creating square bends in components and I often use them to hold components. I’ve also included Engineer scissors because they are multipurpose and make a great addition to a maker’s toolkit. They have different blade areas and wire cutters between the handles. Also, a pair of wire strippers is a good idea to make stripping wires easier. You can use cutters, but it takes practice, and you won’t want to do that long-term.

Cleaning – Brass Sponge, Tip Tinner, and Sponges

1. Keeping your soldering iron tip clean is essential for maintaining its efficiency and prolonging its lifespan. You can clean the tip by pushing it into brass wool and giving it a few twists, followed by dipping it into tip tinner. I highly recommend using brass wool along with Chip Quik tip tinner, as these tools will last over a year (depending on your soldering frequency) and help preserve the health of your soldering iron tip.
2. While some people use a wet sponge for cleaning, I prefer to avoid it. Many experienced hobbyists have noted that the sudden temperature change can be harmful to the tip. Instead, regular cleaning and tinning with solder is a reliable way to protect and extend the life of your soldering iron.

Soldering Iron Stand (Cradle)

1. It’s important to have a designated place to rest your soldering iron while you work. For my portable kit, I use a minimal black tray with a sturdy metal stand for the iron. When choosing a stand, consider browsing supplier websites (mentioned earlier in this chapter) to find one that suits your needs. Some stands come with additional features like a solder roll holder or a sponge for cleaning.
2. Always keep your soldering iron in its stand when not in use. This not only keeps your workspace safe but also protects the tip from unnecessary wear. A good soldering stand is an essential part of any soldering setup, whether at home or on the go.

Pref Board & Resistors – Your First Components

1. Pref Prototyping Board: This is your practice surface, where you’ll solder components without needing a complex circuit board. You'll find many of them green and buy the least expensive ones because we are just using them for practice. You can get the fancy stuff later for your projects 😊

There are also many sizes, and it's usually a good idea to have some of these around for your projects.

1. When you want to make your circuit more durable and are looking to solder it, it’s a good idea to use a surface; this can be a perf board, stripboard, or flexible breadboard. Perfboard is a board that has holes in it, and it’s up to you to place your components through the holes. You then solder your components to each other and to the wires as needed. The board provides stability. The perf board holes are independent of each other
2. Stripboard has strips of conductive traces along it; these copper tracks are on one side of the board. If you aren’t using the whole strip (for example, for a ground trace), you would cut the trace so you can use it for other connections. This can be done with a blade, cutting knife, or similar. You can get all colors and shapes of perfboard and stripboard so look around for ones that suit your project.

Resistors: The best starter component for learning soldering—they’re simple, cheap, and essential in nearly all electronics. There are also certain resistor numbers I rarely use, so the resistors that are less popular - especially if you bought a kit of them - should be used first for practice. (I save 220, 330, 1K, 10K as these are always popular in wearable circuitry.)

Optional Tools for Better Precision

If you want to make soldering even easier, consider:

1. Helping Hands – Adjustable arms that hold components steady.
2. Sponge or Brass Coil Cleaner – Cleans the iron tip for better heat transfer.
3. A Stand – Keeps your iron safely in place when not in use.
4. Wire strippers / cutters / basic tools for wire handling.

Now that you know the tools, it’s time to start soldering! We’ll get hands-on and begin practising the technique.

Setting Up Your Workspace

Before you start:

1. Choose a stable work surface with good lighting. Good lighting is super important.
2. Work in a well-ventilated area to minimize fumes.
3. Keep tools organized and within easy reach for smooth workflow.

We’re diving into the heart of soldering: creating your very first solder joint. This is where all the preparation pays off, and you’ll experience the thrill of connecting components with precision and care.

Let’s roll up our sleeves and get started on this exciting step in your soldering journey!😊

Practice!

After prototyping your project, if you want to keep it, you might want to try soldering. Soldering components adds durability and reliability to connections. Using a breadboard is a temporary solution to test our circuit. Often, and you may have already discovered this, the wires fall out or bend, or components get disconnected. It can be very frustrating.

Also, often it can end up looking like a bird’s nest with a mess of connections and wires everywhere. We can use conductive thread to sew connections to fabric, which will also allow for a more permanent solution; however, if your circuit needs to travel down a leg or other large distance, there can be signal strength issues.

How to Solder – The Perfect Beginner’s Technique

Welcome to the most exciting part of your soldering journey—making your very first solder joint! In this lesson, we’ll guide you step by step to create secure, clean connections using wires, a protoboard, and resistors. You’ll learn essential techniques like tinning, making a connection, and inspecting your work. Let’s get started!

Your First Solder Joint: Wire through a protoboard

Start with a simple resistor (or whatever components you have to hand, of low value) in a board joint to get comfortable with the process.

For learning to solder, we’ll need the following:

1. Resistors, bulk of any value,
2. Protoboard or perfboard,
3. A solder iron,
4. solder,
5. wire strippers,
6. side cutters,
7. and helping hands are useful.

Practice first – grab some resistors and perfboard so we can practice. Practising is the best way to learn and build up confidence. After looking at the photos in the figure, let’s follow a few steps to practice. Remember, we all started with a similar activity, and it takes a little time to get a feel for it.

You should wear safety goggles and work somewhere with good ventilation when soldering.

Preparation:

1. Begin by "tinning" your soldering iron tip. Tinning involves applying a thin layer of solder to the tip of your iron to ensure efficient heat transfer.

2. Clean the iron tip with a damp sponge or brass cleaner after tinning.

Step-by-Step Guide to Soldering Components

Here are the steps to make our first solder connection:

1. Holding your perfboard, push each leg of the resistor through one hole. After the resistor is through, pull the legs apart slightly to anchor the resistor in place. Feed through several resistors.

2. Heat your solder iron. When it is at temperature (320°–420°, depending on the solder you are using; the solder packaging will tell you), tap the solder to the tip of your soldering iron. The solder should just coat your soldering iron tip slightly. This won’t be used to solder with, but it helps the conductivity of our soldering.

3. Hold the iron tip against the two areas you want to solder. Hold the solder iron tip so it touches both the leg of the resistor and the metal of the perfboard surface. Hold the tip against these two surfaces for a few moments so it heats up. There shouldn’t be any bubbling. If it bubbles, it’s too hot – remove the tip to let the surface cool.

Holding the solder iron in place and gently adding solder.

4. When both surfaces are heated, touch a solder strand to them. You want this to melt and flow; if it is flux core solder, there will now be some bubbling as it melts and heats. This is normal. Keep pushing in solder until there is a small mound forming.

5. When you can see a small mound of solder, remove both the solder and the iron tip.

6. Let the joint cool for a moment. This should harden into our solid solder connection between the resistor leg and the perfboard. It will take time to be able to correctly judge how to get a feel for the amount of solder and the time to heat the components.

7. When you have finished, clip the ends of the wires that are sticking out. Hold your cutters against the ends and clip – be sure to hold your hand over as you cut, as they tend to ping off!

I love soldering, so I hope you have a good experience too. Soldering will open a lot of possibilities for your wearables. There is no rush to move on, so take your time and enjoy this learning process!

A little extra information if needed:

1. Heating the Joint:
2. On your proto board, place a resistor lead through one of the holes. (see the images above)
3. Heat the joint (where the lead touches the board) with your soldering iron for 2–3 seconds.
4. Applying Solder:
5. While keeping the joint heated, touch the solder to the joint—not the iron tip.
6. Allow the solder to flow and cover the joint completely.
7. Trim the ends
8. Once your solder is solid, you can carefully trim the ends, be careful - I usually cover the ends with my hand and trim underneath. These ends can go flying - another reason why you should wear safety goggles!
9. Avoiding Common Mistakes:
10. Cold solder joints: These happen when the solder doesn’t fully melt and results in poor conductivity. To avoid this, make sure the joint is properly heated before applying solder.
11. Overheating: Too much heat can damage components or melt the board. Keep an eye on timing and use precision.

Mastering the ability to solder pin headers onto your components is an essential skill that will open the door to countless electronics projects. By incorporating this technique into your soldering knowledge, you’ll be able to connect and integrate various modules with ease.

Preparing the Pin Headers

Begin by cutting the header strip to the required length—though some components may already come with pre-sized headers, eliminating the need for trimming.

Setting Up for Soldering

In the image, the top left section illustrates a breadboard with header pins pressed into it. When working with long pins, ensure they are fully inserted and securely positioned before soldering to achieve a stable connection.

Now that the pins are in, place your component on top, as in the image (bottom left). I used a flux pen to go over the top of the header pins that are exposed, as in the image (middle). When soldering, be careful not to touch the breadboard with your soldering iron, because it will melt your breadboard immediately!

Then, as previously, hold the solder iron tip against the pin and circuit board; think of it as holding the side of the solder tip against it. Make sure they get hot and then hold the solder to it as well. You’ll want to do a tack solder:

Tacking Solder

Tack solder is a solder point to help hold the pins you are soldering, in place. Solder one of the pins on one side of the board – I chose the top right – and then solder a pin on the opposite side of the board, say bottom left, for example, tacking it in place.

Solder all the pins, then check them to see that they all have good coverage, but not too much, and that none have solder overlapping to the pin next to them. This is called a bridged joint. We can check for bridges with our multimeter.

A good solder joint should look:

1. Shiny and smooth: Reflective and free of cracks or dull patches.
2. Cone-shaped: Tapering smoothly from the lead to the board.

Watch out for:

1. Cold joints: Dull, rough, or cracked solder.
2. Blobby joints: Excess solder that spreads unevenly or bridges multiple connections.

Practice Makes Perfect

Repeat these steps with several resistors on your proto board to build confidence and consistency. The more you practice, the easier it will become to judge timing and technique.

Checking for bridged joins (video)

Using your multimeter’s continuity setting (the symbol that looks like a speaker, as it will make a noise), we will check whether the soldered pins are connected where they shouldn’t be. The image (left) shows holding the two ends of the multimeter touching so it is a connected circuit that it registers a value and makes a sound.

When there is no connection, the reading is open loop(OL). Let’s check whether we have bridged our connection:

1. Hold one probe to one pin on the circuit board that you’ve soldered.
2. Hold the other probe to the pin next to it.

Does your multimeter make a sound?

✖️ No? Great! There’s no bridge. ⭐

✔️ Yes? Oh-oh, you’ll need to remove the solder to fix that pin so it doesn’t touch the one next to it.

Do this for all pins that you think might be bridged. You’re done!

Making mistakes is part of the learning process—especially when it comes to soldering! In this lesson, we’ll explore common soldering issues, how to fix them, and tips to improve your technique. Whether it’s a blobby joint, a cold solder connection, or even a burnt component, these solutions will help you stay confident and keep progressing. Let’s turn those “oops” moments into learning opportunities!

Cleanliness is Key:

A clean workspace leads to better results. Here’s what to focus on:

1. Iron Tip: Always clean your soldering iron tip before and after each use using a damp sponge or brass cleaner. This ensures good heat transfer and prevents residue buildup.
2. Components: Ensure the parts you’re soldering are free of dirt, grease, or oxidation for a solid bond.

Common Soldering Mistakes and How to Fix Them:

These are some of the folks you might encounter on your soldering quests! We only want A as our adventure buddy.

1. Cold Joints:
2. What it is: A joint that looks dull or cracked and isn’t properly bonded, leading to weak connections.
3. Fix: Reheat the joint and apply a small amount of solder, ensuring both parts are adequately heated before applying the solder.
4. Solder Blobs:
5. What it is: Excess solder that pools into a messy blob or bridges connections unintentionally.
6. Fix: Remove the excess solder using a solder wick or pump, then reheat and carefully reapply a smaller amount.
7. Burnt Components:
8. What it is: Overheating components or the board, causing visible damage.
9. Fix: Always aim to heat the joint for just the right amount of time (2-3 seconds for most beginner projects). If a component is damaged, it may need replacing.

There can also be discolouration of your solder if you’ve used too much heat.

Sometimes, we hold our iron on the joint for too long because we just aren’t sure how much heat is needed. This can sometimes damage the pads we are soldering to. Also, sometimes, as we solder, small solder spatters happen.

These are little flecks of solder that flick and then stick to the board. If they come off while we are using our circuit, it could cause a short circuit. Always remove (with tweezers or a knife) any spatters that can occur.

‼️IMPORTANT: If the soldering isn’t going how you’re expecting it, take a break, let the joint/leg/header and solder iron cool, and try again.

Clean!

Don’t forget, many soldering issues can be avoided if we keep our solder tip clean and tinned. Always brush your tip in the brass wool and then use a little solder or tinner to tin the end of your soldering iron.

As a reminder, when soldering, follow these steps:

1. Heat the iron; when at temperature, clean the iron and tin the tip.
2. Steady the parts you want to solder using helping hands, or similar.
3. Heat the joint – both the parts that you want to be connected together.
4. Apply the solder and let it flow into the joint and circuit.
5. Allow time to cool, undisturbed.
6. Then, trim any wires or pins that need to be cut.

There are many reasons for varying results; it could be the temperature of your solder iron tip, the type of solder you are using, the wire thickness, or the surface of the circuit board. These variables will alter the time it takes for the solder joint to form, and it is only through practice that you will get a feel for it.

How to Desolder and Retry: Sometimes, the best way to fix a mistake is to start over.

Here’s how:

1. Solder Wick: A copper braid used to absorb molten solder from the joint. Place the wick on the joint, heat with your iron, and watch the solder soak into the braid.
2. Solder Pump: A spring-loaded tool that vacuums up molten solder. Heat the joint, activate the pump, and remove the solder.

Different braid/wicks (none of the are John) to help remove solder if you do make a mistake - which we all will do.

Both tools are beginner-friendly and excellent for cleaning up mistakes.

Tips for Staying Patient:

1. Mistakes are normal—keep practicing and learning from them.
2. Take breaks if you feel frustrated or tired. Soldering requires steady hands and focus.
3. Celebrate small victories! Every corrected mistake brings you closer to mastery.

This is just a last little bit of more information about soldering and what I do for some microcontrollers that I will be putting into a wearable technology project.

Learning about wearable technology? Join me in my journey!

➡️Please check out & subscribe to my videos on YouTube if you want to learn more tips and tricks for creating wearable technology: https://www.youtube.com/@ChristineFarion/featured

➡️Dive into more fun projects with Arduino and ESP32 by exploring my playlist.

➡️Additionally, for wearable technology items, such as conductive fabrics, visit my little maker shop Tinker Tailor. or my book on Amazon about making wearable technology.

➡️Or for other projects and information, see my site: https://christinefarion.com