Handheld Projector X 4

by smogdog in Workshop > 3D Printing

1948 Views, 23 Favorites, 0 Comments

Handheld Projector X 4

Untitled 7.001.jpeg
IMG_1528.jpeg
Family_photo02.jpg
Family_photo01.jpg
IMG_1529.jpeg

This is my favorite project the past year, learning Fusion 360 has been incredible!

From a very basic start, I made 4 iterations of a handheld projector! It's time to share the process, result, and future goals.

With 4 different designs there is a lot going on, I've split it up in 4 parts, but as you'll see some ideas are overlapping and feeding on each other.

This project is still ongoing so if you have input please let me know!

Supplies

Micro:bit (https://microbit.org)

Step motor 28BYJ-48-Module (Amazon.co.uk)

USB cable

5V battery pack

Silicone grease (lubricating 3D printed threads)

Convex Lens Glass (Aliexpress.com)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Tools:

For any 3D project there is one tool that rules them all… CALIPERS!!!

I've fallen in love with Fusion 360, it's only been a year and 3 months getting to know this software, can't wait to see what I'll be making in another year:-)

After a month of using an Ultimaker2, I settled on a Prusa MK3 printer, 100% happy

Revenge of the Analogue!

IMG_4974.jpeg
IMG_6411.jpeg
IMG_1508.jpg
IMG_6419.jpeg
IMG_6415.jpeg
IMG_4982.jpeg

One of my collections here on Instructables is labeled "Projection". I've been fascinated by this technology for a long time, slide projectors, film projectors, and now digital projectors. In my research I've come across projects where fellow makers have embarked on their own projection adventures. Some completed, while others are put on hold for various reasons. I've taken inspiration from these and some of their ideas can be seen in my own process. This is how it works we build on others before us.

I've included some of the research/inspiration here:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/weareprojecto...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BcFtZXoF6Cn/

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/open-source-gue...

3D Printing, Yesssss!

Screenshot 2020-05-26 at 08.47.56.png
3Dprinting Bonanza
IMG_6090.jpeg

For anyone still wondering if 3D printing is something they should dip their toe into, I can only say this… Hell yes!

I had my 3D printing awakening about a year ago. For a month I borrowed a printer from work and could not stop. After delivering this marvel back I bought my own, a Prusa MK3, which I built myself (ok, with some much needed help:-) I'm not going to talk you into getting started with 3D printing, by sharing this Instructable I hope you'll see how great fun it can be!

First, to have full advantage of the opportunities with 3D printing you need to learn a cad software, I had tried 123Design a while back and liked it for its simplicity, but due to it being discontinued I decided to put my fear away and dive into Fusion 360.

The best start you can have is following Lars Christensen and his:

This 3 episode introduction will give you a jumpstart in use and understanding of F360 basic principles. 1 hour invested will payback in 1000 happy hours of modeling:-D

As a final note on the splendidness of F360, one word… threads! (more on that later)

But Where to Begin…

Screenshot 2020-05-27 at 10.54.28.png
Screenshot 2020-05-27 at 11.04.39.png

It's obvious… start simple! My first test was to make a ring that would fit the drill opening. Which is basically a cylinder with different widths. Next, I started designing the slide housing, this again is a… box, with a square space for the slide and a hole for the light to pass through. I then made a new part/component for the lens I had, again, a cylinder with a rectangle shape to attach to the slide housing.

You got to think "add and subtract"

At this point in the process, I hadn't seen the possibilities with threads so when these 3 parts were printed I epoxy glued them together.

I made this design in 3 parts, why? Well for starters it is so much easier when you break down your design to smaller components. Second, when printing you want as little support material as possible to make your print smother and less clean up.

Look at how I placed them on the print plate, placing the slide house at 45 degrees generates very little support!

Pen to Paper!

IMG_6181.jpeg

These are the first sketches based on the drill design. I always sketch before I make something (eh… ok sometimes I'm too eager, but that usually backfires:-)

With 3D design I know now that it is pointless to even open up the software if I don't have a first sketch and some measurements.

Calipers to the rescue!

Part 1: the Drill Viewer

IMG_5821.jpeg
IMG_5823.jpeg
IMG_6012.jpeg
IMG_6017.jpeg
IMG_6023.jpeg
IMG_6020.jpeg
IMG_6019.jpeg
IMG_6022.jpeg

Like so many other projects this started off with stuff I had laying around my workshop, a broken drill. While pulling it apart for harvesting motors and other gems I realized how much space was inside when pulling everything out. Also, I noticed a lip on the inside where the motor had been attached, what if I could attach a new part to this handheld device? Could I make it into a handheld projector?

Oh yesss I could, but could I really. I would need to cad something I'd never made before.

I pulled out the calipers and measured the inner dimensions and made a quick object in F360, had it printed to see if it fit. It did, with some adjustments needed. Now it was pretty simple to imagine the rest. I knew I wanted to make a housing for a single slide.

A 10 watt LED was attached to a heatsink, and a 12 volts battery connected externally.

To adjust the lens for perfect focus I made a threaded hole for an adjustment bolt.

Part 2: a Fully 3D Printed Viewer

IMG_6031.jpeg
IMG_6467.jpeg
IMG_6089.jpeg
IMG_6032.jpeg
IMG_6033.jpeg
IMG_6028.jpeg
IMG_6029.jpeg
IMG_6034.jpeg
IMG_6099.jpeg
IMG_6469.jpeg

This was the obvious next step, I wanted to have full control of the design of the body. The LED (10 watts) was not as strong as I wished for and I had flashlights that produced less heat and were much stronger. So the first version was made based on the drill design. The slide house got some adjustments and the flashlight holder was cone-shaped to fit the super-strong flashlight.

Printing all the components took a full 24 hours. As you can see the print delivered, but now I tend to break things down and not print everything at once.

This was also the starting point for coming up with refinements so others could download and build their own.

The camera pistol grip was made by blu006
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1966894

Lenses…

IMG_1542.JPG
IMG_1544.JPG
IMG_1543.JPG

At this stage I used old slide projector lenses I've been collecting for a while. I have different brands and sizes. The quality was great, but they are quite heavy and hard to come by for others. So I started designing a version I could 3D print and add a lens bought separately online.

I've ended up with a Convex Lens Glass from Aliexpress.com.

In the green photo, you can see the 3D printed lens, with the lens glass on the left.

Testing in London… Next Makers Central

IMG_6207.jpeg
IMG_6283.jpeg
IMG_6208.jpeg
IMG_6210.jpeg
IMG_6211.jpeg

Not sure what I was thinking when I brought this to London, but I was on my way to the second Makers Central 2019 in Birmingham and thought I'd do some promo for this fantastic event! Luckily no passerby reported me to the police!

To make the most out of it, I made slides with logos of my favorite makers I knew would come to MC2019. That way I got their attention:-)

Slides, Film and Wheel

Slide_film_template.jpg
35mm-Instructables.jpg
IMG_1519.jpeg
IMG_1521.jpeg
IMG_1522.jpeg

I've been printing slides for a long time now on my inkjet printer, an Epson XP 950. Transparency film comes in many qualities, so far both cheap and expensive have delivered. The biggest challenge is to have your printer do the print in full rich black, if not the black won't be opaque and light will leak.

Cutting for the traditional 35mm is straight forward, both single slides and film strips you only need a metal ruler. For the circular reel, you can either, like me, use a circle cutter or go freestyle with a pointy utility knife.

I've included a pdf template…

How Many Parts?

IMG_6431.jpeg

With the threads option built into F360 it is very easy to make parts connect to one another. What I've learned first hand so far with 3D printing is that you'll have fewer issues if you break your designs into smaller parts and then attach them when for the final assembly.

So it became evident that I needed to make full use of threads locking the different parts together. This also made it easy to add options for flashlights having various diameters to their fronts.

As this project progresses you'll see what I mean:-)

Part 3: Motorized Viewer

Everything will be ok!
IMG_0615.jpeg
IMG_0635.jpeg
IMG_1545.JPG
IMG_0622.jpeg
IMG_1546.JPG
IMG_1512.jpeg
IMG_9973.jpeg
IMG_0626.jpeg
IMG_0624.jpeg
IMG_0625.jpeg
IMG_0631.jpeg
IMG_9768.jpeg
IMG_0633.jpeg
IMG_0636.jpeg
IMG_6362.jpeg

The Motorized Viewer came about when looking into projecting more imagery without the delay of switching the slide. I only just recently dived into programming but only enough to realize I could maybe use a Micro:Bit controller and a stepper motor.

This setup would allow me to advance a roll of "film" at a programmed rotation value. If I press button A, the stepper motor would turn one full round.

This meant I had to design a holder for the Micro:Bit and the stepper motor + board… and a way to contain the strip of film before it was fed into the slide house and onto a spool (rotated by the stepper motor)

I found a cheap and strong enough motor, but before I made everything ready to print I needed to find the right code. Not being a coder I googled my way to this page:

Here I found code specific for the Micro:Bit, I hooked up all the wiring and tested the code to see if it would turn the motor at my desired rotation value. Oh yessss, it worked and best of all, the Micro:Bit programming language is easy to understand, It's called block programming. You pull blocks of code in and stack it in the right order. To your convenience you see the code run on a virtual Micro:Bit in the software, so you can see if it works before loading it onto the board.

Threads, You Gotta Love'em!

Threads.001.jpeg
Screenshot 2020-05-29 at 11.44.35.png

As I said earlier, threads are fantastic! In Fusion 360 there is a built-in threads creator (Create menu, middle), this makes any hole or outer cylinder a thread in seconds.

I went totally thread crazy in this project. I won't say overboard because they are all very useful. As you can se in the overview image, parts are replaceable and make the setup really easy to modify. It also made my design way easier to print time-consuming wise (and avoid print spaghetti:-)

One important thing to tick off in the threads feature panel is the "Modeled" option, now your thread is modeled and ready to print.

Motorized Projector 2.0

IMG_1514.jpeg
IMG_1515.jpeg
IMG_1516.jpeg
IMG_1517.jpeg
IMG_1518.jpeg

Having done the first assembly and test of the motorized projector I discover a few issues. First off the film canister was too small, the increase in width was needed. Next I saw the spool connected to the motor was too far away from the slide house. This meant I needed to redesign the plate holding all the digital components.

I also upgraded the stem holding the spool in place. One nut to adjust height and the arm to fix the spool was held in place by a second nut. All threaded of course:-) Bonus design, I made a small tool to tighten the nuts.

I Love Micro:Bit

Screenshot 2020-05-26 at 11.32.40.png

For someone who wants to explore all possibilities and in this case, using a microcontroller to run a step motor, Micro:bit (https://microbit.org) comes to the rescue. A far simpler cousin to Audrino, the BBC project, has a super simple programming environment. I googled microbit and stepper motor and found this example:

https://learningdevelopments.co.nz/blogs/troystuto...

I didn't have to do much to make it work the way I wanted. There are of course several opportunities I want to explore, but for now all I want is for the motor to pull the film the desired length with the push of a button.

I changed the pins so I could more easily solder the wires (not having them side by side meant I didn't have to worry about hitting the wrong pin with my soldering iron)

I also made button A do one rotation and button B two rotations.

Part 4: the Master Viewer

Master Viewer parts.001.jpeg
60837988420__CCADDE5E-5648-4D06-AED3-EAE5206ADFD5.jpeg
60837996616__4069B4FC-2BE1-4833-9703-04D49BFF44A0.jpeg
IMG_1509.jpg
60838000041__A6B30092-7A0E-45F1-87D1-EE2B00A2DE48.jpeg

It's pretty obvious where I got the inspiration from here. But it wasn't until I had finished the motorized version I discovered this idea. I was so happy with the option of having more imagery loaded I thought maybe I could make an analog version inspired by the View-Master. This meant I could make "cassettes" or reels and load the Master-Viewer with 9 images.

This is a good place to end this instructable, I'm really super happy with what I've ended up with and it's so much fun bringing this handheld projector to parties and a run around town… Guerilla activism is up next! So please consider following along to see where the projection adventure goes next:

https://www.instagram.com/smogdog

​Neighborhood Activism!

IMG_0673.jpeg
IMG_0674.jpeg

Stay safe and share your toilet paper!