Handcrafted Fishing Lure

Hey there! In this project, I’m going to show you how I made a custom wooden crankbait fishing lure. It’s more than just a regular lure—this one has some artistic flair. I used wood for the body and added dowel inserts to mimic fish scales, giving it a unique, handcrafted look. While it’s definitely designed to catch fish, it’s also a piece of art that any angler or DIY enthusiast can appreciate. If you're into fishing or just love creating something by hand, follow along and make your own personalized crankbait!

Tools:

Bandsaw

Hand saws (flush cut, hack and crosscut)

Electric drill

Punch

Drill press

Pencil

Sandpaper 180, 220, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500

Belt sander

Torch

Metal snips

Meguiars Polish

Paint Brush

PPE

Materials:

Poplar dowels (3/8" & 7/8" diameter)

Sacrificial hard wood of your choice. I used scrap oak

Acrylic sheet (1/8" thick)

Stainless steel wire

Fish hooks

Epoxy

Quick set wood glue

1/4" Brass rod

1. First thing was to create a template. I looked online (google images) for a shape that I liked and lasered it onto some thin metal. This template also includes hole locations (3/8" diameter) that will help with drilling. The reason I lasered it onto thin metal is because I wanted a template that would last longer than a paper one (reusability). Paper is a great option as well.
2. Trace this template onto a sacrificial piece of wood. I chose some scrap oak - 3/4" thick. Oak is a hardwood that will take the dowels nicely.
3. Punch the hole locations onto the wood.

1. Torch the outside of the 3/8" dowel with a torch. This will create some nice contrast between dowels and highlight the scales on the lure.
2. Cut dowel into shorter pieces, roughly 1 inch in length
3. Drill the first hole on the tail of the fish and insert dowel with a coating of wood glue. Let dry for a couple minutes.
4. Cut excess off with a flush cut saw.
5. Drill the next hole and repeat the process.

Note: I used a 3/4" dowel with a 3/8" dowel inside of it to act as the eye ball of the fish. Notice the dowel right at the nose is my way of representing a false eye, which you do see on some species of fish.

1. Rip the wood in half with a bandsaw. This is so I can laminate another piece of hardwood between the two scales.
2. Sand the two pieces flat on the belt sander.

1. I selected another piece of hardwood (unsure of species) that contrasts nicely with the scales.
2. Glue wood together and clamp.

Note: I drilled two holes before glue-up on opposing sides and inserted two drill bits into position to ensure perfect alignment.

1. Cut out the lure shape with a band saw.
2. Rough shape with belt sander. Top view shape was done by feel. You can always reference another lure or a picture online for this step.
3. Final hand sanding with 180/ 220 grit sandpaper.

1. Now we cut the mouth slot to fit in a diving lip.
2. I first used and flush cut saw as a first pass, then a hand saw that was roughly the width of the diving lip.

1. I hand drew a template for the diving lip (reference pictures of another lure for size)
2. Trace shape onto acrylic sheet.
3. Cut out the shape with a bandsaw.
4. Clean up the rough cut with a small belt sander.
5. Clean up any scratches by wet sanding with 1500 grit sand paper and polishing with Meguiars polish.

1. Using SS wire, snip off a section of wire ~ 4 inches
2. Fold wire and insert into drill chuck.
3. Wrap wire around a small round metal rod. In this case I am using a 1/8" Brass rod.
4. Engage drill to twist wire tight.
5. Snip excess wire off.

1. Using a drill bit the same diameter as the eye hooks, drill (3 holes) into the body of the lure. Ensure drill is perpendicular.

Note: Length of eye hooks will vary based on the size of your lure.

1. Using epoxy I adhered all items to the body. Its pretty self explanatory, but just ensure a thorough coating of epoxy is applied over the entire area of the holes and surfaces.

1. After a float test in the sink, I noticed it was tipping over to one side. Without adding weight to the bottom of this lure it will not swim properly.
2. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the bottom and inserted the brass rod (~1/2" length).

After another float test, it was deemed suitable. The lure floated in an upright position.

1. Mix up 2-part epoxy. We really don't need too much, roughly Toonie size.
2. Apply epoxy in a thin coat. This will ensure no runs or build ups in the epoxy. I waited 24 hours and sanded with 800 grit between coats. Three coats total.

Here it is in all its glory!

Please view the attached video for more clarity and to see it in action!

Thanks for following along.

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