Glowing Ood Alien Art (Doctor Who) Glass, Vinyl & LEDs
by AwesomeWood in Craft > Art
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Glowing Ood Alien Art (Doctor Who) Glass, Vinyl & LEDs
This glowing artwork can be a challenge to make... but if you follow the steps, you should have your very own Odd in no time!
Dimensions:
- Artwork: 11.5 x 20.5 inches (visible 11 x 20 inches)
- Frame: 12.5 x 21.5 x 1.5
SVG file:
- Download the artwork as SVG: http://awesomewoodthings.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/ood.zip
- Enlarge image so the yellow shapes are as large as a standard 12x12 vinyl sheet.
Materials needed:
- Glass (1/8 inch thick)
- Vinyl (to be cut using a vinyl cutter)
- 1/8 Acrylic (just a small amount 2 x 2 inches)
- Transfer tape (for the vinyl)
- Solid wood for the frame (3/4 inch thick. Example: poplar)
- Thin plywood (1/8 inch thick)
- Hardboard (1/8 inch thick)
- MDF (1/4 inch think)
- MDF (1/2 inch think)
- Wood Glue http://a.co/3izcZYX
- General purpose 2-part epoxy
- Plastic 2-part epoxy http://a.co/fyfdXWm
- Artwork hanging hardware http://a.co/0NOoY83
- Drak blue spray paint
- White spray paint
- Frosted spray paint
- Battery powered LED strips (x2) http://a.co/e1X3A4f
- 6 small magnets
- Painter's tape
Tools needed:
- Vinyl cutter (Cricut or Silhouette brand)
- Glass cutter
- Hot glue gun
- Permanent marker
- Scissors
- Exacto knife
- Table saw
- Router table (optional)
- Band saw (or scroll saw)
- Drill press (or hand drill)
- Drill bit (approx 1/8)
- Countersink drill bit http://a.co/cme0itT
Prepare Glass
Final size should be 11.5 x 20.5 inches
- Mark glass with a permanent marker
- Score glass with glass scorer
- Break glass
Apply Frosted Spray Paint to Back of Glass
Frosted spray paint will ensure the LEDs provide an even glow.
- Simply spray it on the back.
- Caution: Don't apply too much... a light coat is all you need!
Add Elements to the Front of the Glass
- Apply the vinyl for the eyes and the translation sphere elements to front (acts as a mask for the spray paint)
- Tip: Use low adhesive vinyl.
- Tip: Any color can be used... you'll remove this during the last step on this page.
- Paint front dark blue (spray-paint)
- Peel up vinyl to reveal clear areas (negative shapes)
- Add yellow vinyl for the Ood's head
Add Elements to the Back of the Glass
Paint the back black to prevent the light from the LEDs from shining through the blue paint. Mask of the clear areas first!
- Apply vinyl to clear areas on the back
- Tip: Use the reverse image
- Tip: Use low adhesive vinyl for the eyes and translation sphere artwork.
- Tip: Any color can be used... you'll remove this during the last step on this page.
- Spray-paint the back (black color)
- Peel up vinyl from the back
Create the Frame
Mill the lumber if needed. The width should be 1.5 inches and its thickness should be 3/4 inch.
- Cut wood to 1.5 inches wide
- Chamfer the top x2
- Cut 45-degree miters at proper length (22.5 inches x2 and 12.5 inches x2)
- Cut a large rabbet with multiple passes on the table saw
- BE SAFE! Use multiple passes for the deep cut.
- Assemble frame with wood glue. Use painter's tape while the glue dries.
The final outside dimensions of the frame should be 12.5 x 22.5.
The final inside dimensions of the frame (to hold artwork) is just a bit larger than the glass: 11.375 x 21.375.
Create On/off Switch Mechanism
Cut two pieces of acrylic to "trap" the on/off switch so it can be controlled outside of the frame.
- Cut acrylic to grab on/off switch
- Cut acrylic paddles
- Join the two acrylic pieces with plastic epoxy
Prepare Frame for On/off Switch Mechanism
- Drill holes through frame (to accept the paddles)
- Countersink frame (to allow your fingers to grab the small pieces of the paddles that are accessible outside the frame)
Final Assembly (part 1)
Lock the artwork in place and add the LED strips.
- Add the glass to the frame and trap it with 1/8 plywood cut to 3/4 inch wide. Use wood glue to bond these plywood strips to the inside frame.
- Apply plywood directly to the glass with hot glue (this plywood will hold the LED strips)
- Tip: Use the image as a guide for placement... which is approximately 1.5 inches away from the open areas
- Apply LED strips with hot glue (don't simply rely on the adhesive that's on the back of the LEDs... it's not sticky enough)
- Test the LEDs to ensure they light up
Create Frame Backing Elements
The back is made out of two different materials: thin material that leaves about two inches at the bottom exposed. That lower part is covered with thicker material that is held in place with magnets (so you can change the batteries)
- Cut 1/8 hardboard for the back of the frame
- Add the notch as shown
- Spray-paint the back hardboard white (don't apply paint to the edges... you'll apply glue to these areas later)
- Cut 1/4 MDF for the lower back
- It's size and shape should fit the opening below the 1/8 hardboard you just cut/painted.
- Cut blocks using 1/2 MDF. These are "pillars" of sorts.
- Their height should be absolutely flush with the top of the paddle which will be resting on the on/off control box!
- This will keep the paddle tight against the on/off control box.
- Drill holes in this pillars to accept the lower magnets (use general purpose 2-part epoxy so the magnets won't escape
- Drill holes using a larger Forstner bit in the 1/4 MDF lower back.
- Don't drill all the way through. Leave the smallest amount of material.
- The position of these holes must align with the pillars
Final Assembly (part 2)
Just a few more steps!
- Permanently attached back with wood glue (Don't add nails with a hammer or use one of those framing clip staple guns... remember, there is fragile glass artwork directly underneath where you're working)
- Apply paddles (test on/off feature)
- Put the lower door in its place. Add magnets and let them snap into place based on the magnet beneath them (on the pillars)
- Add epoxy over the magnets (inside the larger holes on the outside of the lower door)
- Add hanging hardware (Don't use a hammer! Remember, this contains glass artwork)
Hang your Odd on the wall and enjoy his company and wisdom!
Allons-y!