Glowing Color-Changing Guitar

by randofo in Circuits > Arduino

66967 Views, 434 Favorites, 0 Comments

Glowing Color-Changing Guitar

modded.jpg
Randy Guitar_0051.jpg
Randy Guitar_0067.jpg
Randy Guitar_0015.jpg
Randy Guitar_0092.jpg
Randy Guitar_0102.jpg
Randy Guitar_0111.jpg

In the kingdom of rock and roll it is important to set oneself apart. With millions of people in this world who can play the guitar, simply playing well is just not going to cut it. You need something extra to rise up as a rock god. Consider this guitar the mystical glowing ax bestowed upon you by the Rock Goddess of Bangs; The fabled ax that will lay waste to nonbelievers and shred through the aether with the transcendent glory of rock. With this weapon of unfathomable power, you will be an explosion of light and sound rising up above the writhing masses.

While there are a couple of other glowing guitars out there, this one by and large sets itself apart. For starters, it is frosted to diffuse the glow of the LEDs. This means that the whole body glows instead of being just edge-lit, and you can also see it during the daytime. The other unique feature of this guitar is that it responds to the music being played. The brightness is adjusted by the volume, and the color is controlled by the duration that it is being played. So, the harder you rock, the more colors you will see.

Go Get Stuff

1A.jpg
1B.jpg
1C.jpg

You will need:

(x1) Clear acrylic guitar *
(x1) Arduino Micro
(x1) Addressable 3-color LED strip
(x1) LM741 op-amp
(x2) 2N5457 transistors -- alternate: NTE457
(x1) 10M resistor **
(x2) 2.2M resistor **
(x1) 470K resistor **
(x4) 100K resistor **
(x2) 47K resistor **
(x2) 10K resistor **
(x1) 1K resistor **
(x1) 10uF capacitor ***
(x2) 1uF capacitor ***
(x3) 0.1uF capacitor
(x1) 1N4733A zener diode
(x1) Proto Board
(x1) 3' mono audio cable
(x2) 4 x AA battery holder
(x1) Power jack
(x20) 4-40 x 1/2" bolts
(x1) 6" x 6" x 0.025" glossy stainless steel
(x1) 2-part epoxy
(x1) 12" x 24" x 1/6" sheet of acrylic
(x1) electric guitar string set

* Finding a clear guitar is the tricky bit. Best course of action is to search Amazon or Google.
** Carbon film resistor kit. Only kit necessary for all labeled parts.
*** Electrolytic capacitor kit. Only kit necessary for all labeled parts.

Please note that some of the links on this page contain Amazon affiliate links. This does not change the price of any of the items for sale. However, I earn a small commission if you click on any of those links and buy anything. I reinvest this money into materials and tools for future projects. If you would like an alternate suggestion for a supplier of any of the parts, please let me know.

Unstring the Guitar

2G.jpg
2B.jpg
2C.jpg
2D.jpg
2E.jpg
2F.jpg
2A.jpg

Wind down each of the tuning machine heads and remove all of the strings.

Take of the Neck

3A.jpg
3B.jpg
3C.jpg
3D.jpg
3E.jpg
Detach the neck from the body of the guitar by removing the four screws at the base of the neck.

Remove the Control Plate

4A.jpg
4B.jpg
4C.jpg
4D.jpg
4E.jpg
4F.jpg
4G.jpg
4H.jpg
Unscrew the control plate from the body of the guitar.

Make note of where the wires from the pickups and output jack are connecting to the controls.

Once you are sure you have a record of the wiring connections, cut the wires to free the control plate entirely from the guitar.

Remove the Bridge

5A.jpg
5B.jpg
5C.jpg
5D.jpg
Remove the screws holding the bridge to the guitar body, and free it from the guitar.

In my case, one of the pickups came along with it. If you have a guitar in which the pickups are not attached to the bridge, remove the pickups seperately.

Remove the Jack

6A.jpg
6B.jpg
Remove the output jack from the guitar body.

Remove the Pickguard

7A.jpg
7B.jpg
7C.jpg
Remove the screws holding the pickguard to the guitar body and any of the remaining pickups.

Detach the Strap Buttons

8A.jpg
8B.jpg
8C.jpg
8D.jpg
Unscrew both of the strap buttons from the body of the guitar.

The body should now have nothing attached to it.

Cut

14A.jpg
14B.jpg
14C.jpg
14D.jpg
14E.jpg
14F.jpg
Cut the LED strip into a 16" and a 20" section (or however long you deem appropriate for your guitar).

Solder 18" wires to both ends of the 16" LED strip.

Route

9A.jpg
9B.jpg
9C.jpg
Using a router table, make one channel that runs between the strap button mounting holes that is 20" long, by 0.25" deep, by 0.6" wide.

Next, make another channel that is 16" long by 0.25" deep by 0.6" wide that starts at the edge of the audio jack mounting holes and runs the legnth of the bottom of the guitar.

These channels will hold the two LED strips. Thus, if your LED strip is longer, you will need longer channels.

Drill

10A.jpg
10B.jpg
10C.jpg
10D.jpg
10E.jpg
Drill a 1/4" diameter hole from the edge of the routed LED channel that is closest to the control comparment down on through the side of the guitar into the compartment itself.

Drill another 1/4" hole from the back side of the guitar straight down until it intersects with the opposite edge of the same routed channel.

Drill a similar 1/4" hole to meet the closest edge of the other routed channel.

Trace

11A.jpg
11B.jpg
11C.jpg
11D.jpg
Place the battery holders and circuit board on the back side of the guitar in a spot where there is room to route a channel large enough to fit both battery holders and the circuit board.

In my case I found they fit upon the back side perfectly between the two pickup channels.

Route

12A.jpg
12B.jpg
12C.jpg
12D.jpg
12E.jpg
12F.jpg
Using a straight edge clamped to the body of the guitar as a guide, follow along the perimeter of the tracing with a plunge router. This will require readjusting the guide for each face of the perimeter.

Once the perimeter is cut, route out all of the material that is remaining on its inside.

This should approximately leave a 6.25" x 2.85" x 0.65" rectangular electronics compartment.

Wire Channels

13A.jpg
13B.jpg
Route two straight channels that are approximately 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep from from each of the 1/4" holes drilled in the back of the guitar to the electronics compartment. These channels will be used to route the wires connecting the two LED strips.

Insert the Strip

15A.jpg
15B.jpg
15C.jpg
15D.jpg
Take the wires connected to the one LED strip and pass them through the long 1/4" hole that goes into the control compartment. Pass the other set of wires through the 1/4" hole that goes out the back of the guitar body.

Pass the wires that have come out the back through the other 1/4" hole into the other LED compartment.

Solder them to appropriate terminals on the other LED strip such that the two strips are wired in parallel.

Cut, Bend, Glue and Clamp

16A.jpg
16B.jpg
16C.jpg
16D.jpg
16E.jpg
16F.jpg
16G.jpg
16H.jpg
16I.jpg
16J.jpg
16K.jpg
Cut a 20" x 0.6" strips of 1/16" acrylic, and also a 16" x 0.6" strip of 16" acrylic.

Once you have the two strips, now comes the tricky part.

Lay the LED strip flat in each of the channels and clamp the edge of the acrylic strip to the inside edge of the channel of equal legnth, and then epoxy the corner of the strip in place. Place a clamp on this corner.

Using a heat gun, soften the strip and form it around the counter of the guitar. Epoxy and clamp the strip in place as you go, until it is clamped in the channel and neatly epoxied in place.

Wait for the epoxy to fully set and repeat this process with the opposite channel.

Of course, this is easier said than done and make take a few attempts go get right. One thing I encountered while doing this is that the clamps tend to slip, especially when there is wet epoxy around. I solved this by placing a few thing pieces of scrap wood over the acrylic and then clamping it. This provided just enough traction to keep it from slipping. However, be careful not to get too much epoxy on the wood or you will have an annoying time sanding this away later.

More Routing

21A.jpg
21B.jpg
21C.jpg
21D.jpg
21E.jpg
21F.jpg
Using a 3/4" diameter plunge router bit, cut a 1" wide by 1" deep channel for the power switch.

Flip the guitar over. Using the same bit, and at the same depth as the electronic compartment, make a notch off one edge large enough for a power charging jack to fit.

Drill Connections

22A.jpg
22B.jpg
22C.jpg
22D.jpg
With a hand drill, make a 5/16" hole between the power switch channel and the control compartment.

Make another hole between the electronics compartment through to the control compartment.

These will be used for routing wires between the components.

Fill Gaps

23A.jpg

Fill in any gaps around the acrylic strip with epoxy. This will prevent sand from getting into the channel during sandblasting.

Tape

24A.jpg
24B.jpg
24C.jpg
24D.jpg
24E.jpg
24F.jpg
Fill in any channels or holes with masking tape in order to protect these from getting frosted or widened while sandblasting.

Sandblast

25A.jpg
25B.jpg
25C.jpg
25D.jpg
Place the guitar into the sandblaster and evenly frost all sides.

In the very likely eventuality that you do not have a sandblaster at your disposal, you can pay someone else to do this for you. Typically any place that does powder coating will also do sandblasting for relatively cheap.

Should you not want to go through the bother, you can use an appropriate spray paint to get a nice frosted effect.

Clean Up

26B.jpg
26A.jpg
Remove all of the masking tape (or what is left of it) from the guitar.

Mark Drill Holes

27A.jpg
Cut the back cover out of 1/16" acrylic if you have not done so already using the attached template.

Place the template over the electronics compartment on the back of the guitar such that it covers all of the routed channels.

Use a pencil and make marks in each of the small mounting holes around the perimeter of the back cover.

Sandblast Again

28A.jpg
28B.jpg
Sandblast one face of the back cover.

Peel the acrylic's protective coating off the opposite side when you are done.

Drill and Tap

29A.jpg
29B.jpg
29C.jpg
Drill 0.08622" holes 1/2" down into the guitar with a drill press using the pencil marks as guides.

Use a 4-40 tap to thread the holes.

When you are done, check to make sure they are correct by threading 4-40 bolts into each of the holes. They should twist in without resistance or being loose.

Switch Plate

30A.jpg
Cut a power switch plate out of 0.025" (or thicker) high-gloss stainless steel using the attached template.

Mark

31A.jpg
31B.jpg
Position the switch plate over the power switch channel and use the plate as a guide to make drill marks in each of its mounting holes.

Drill and Tap

32A.jpg
32B.jpg
Drill 0.08622" x 1/2" deep holes using the marks made in the power switch plate mounting holes.

Thread these with a 4-40 tap.

Trim the Arduino

17B.jpg
17A.jpg
Cut the ICSP pins off of the Arduino Micro board in order to lower its height profile and to make it easier to fit inside of the guitar.

Program

18A.jpg
Download and install the Adafruit_NeoPixel library into your Arduino libraries folder.

Program the Arduino with the following code:

Trim (optional)

19A.jpg
19B.jpg
19C.jpg
If necessary, trim the PCB slightly shorter to fit snugly inside the back electronics compartment with the two battery holders.

Build the Circuit

20A.jpg
20B.jpg
20C.jpg
20D.jpg
20E.jpg
20F.jpg
guitarSchematic.png
The circuit basically consists of a few distinct stages. In the first stage the audio from the pickups is split into two distinct channels via Jfet transistors using a design I "borrowed" from Jack Orman. One channel routes the audio to the output jack of the guitar. The other channel goes towards the preamp stage.

The preamp stage is needed to boost the signal from the pickups to a useable level, and consists of an LM741 using a virtual ground created by the voltage divider on pin 3. It was important to me to keep the circuit simple and not to have to mess around with an opamp that required a true split rail supply.

From the preamp, the output then goes to another stage which both clips the wave and constrains it to a voltage between 0 and 5.1 (in theory). However, because I am using a zener diode to clip the waveform and due to the diode's voltage drop, the wave can actually drop a little below 0. This is less than ideal, but I can live with it and it does not seem to bother the Arduino much. That said, it is good to keep in mind that over time this could potentially damage the Arduino pin that is receiving the signal.

Speaking of which, the only place left for the audio to go in this circuit is into analog pin 0 on the Arduino.

Trim

33A.jpg
33B.jpg
Take the stereo audio cable and clip off the connectors on each end.

Wire the Switch

34A.jpg
34B.jpg
34C.jpg
34D.jpg
34E.jpg
34F.jpg
guitarSchematic.png
This circuit uses a 3PDT switch. Basically, this switch can be used to turn off power to the circuit board and bypass the audio directly to the output jack. In other words, even if the circuit is not powered up, it can still function as just a regular electric guitar, but by pressing it you can power up the LED circuit and route the audio to the splitter on the circuit board.

Pick two pins that get toggled on and off when the switch is pressed. This can be tested with the continuity setting on a multimeter, and by pressing the switch on and off.

Once these pins are identified, connect the audio-in wire from the pickups to pin located in the center row, and the Arduino audio cable to the pin located towards the outside of the switch.

On the set of pins directly next to it connect the audio-out cable, and the Arduino return cable.

Also connect the ground wires from the audio cables to the metal frame of the switch.

Now, on the remaining set of pins next to both of these connect two 18" wires which will be used to toggle the circuit on and off by breaking the ground connection.

Additionally, wire the central ground connection to the metal frame of the switch.

Finally, connect together the two unused pins in line with both sets of audio toggle pins. This will serve to bypass the audio signal past the circuit board when the Arduino is turned off.

Install

35A.jpg
35B.jpg
35C.jpg
35D.jpg
35E.jpg
Pass the wires from the switch through the hole in the switch compartment to the control panel compartment.

Next position the switch in its compartment, and affix the switch panel using the switch's mounting hardware.

Fasten the switch panel to the guitar using 4-40 bolts.

Bridge

36A.jpg
36B.jpg
36C.jpg
36D.jpg
36E.jpg
36F.jpg
36G.jpg
Reinstall the bridge, pick guard, and pickups.

Make certain that the wires get routed properly back to the control panel.

Output Jack

37A.jpg
37B.jpg
37C.jpg
Reconnect the output jack to the guitar.

Ground Wire

38B.jpg
38A.jpg
Connect an extra 6" ground wire to the body of the middle potentiometer on the control panel.

Rewire

39A.jpg
39B.jpg
39C.jpg
Reattach all of the pickup wires to the control panel as they were previously connected.

Connect the audio output from the volume knob to the audio-in wire from the power switch.

Also wire the audio out wire from the power switch to the audio jack connection.

Finally, connect a ground wire from the power switch to the control panel.

Make certain that all of the cables that should be grounded are (like the pickups, and audio jack).

Control Panel

40A.jpg
Reattach the control panel to the front of the guitar.

Neck

41A.jpg
41B.jpg
41C.jpg
Tightly fasten the neck back onto the guitar using the four mounting screws that were removed earlier.

Restring

42A.jpg
42B.jpg
Install a new set of guitar strings and then retune the guitar.

Knobs

43A.jpg
43B.jpg
43C.jpg
Put all of the knobs back onto the control panel.

Connect

44A.jpg
Connect the circuit board to the wires from the control panel and power switch as outlined in the schematic.

These include the audio-in connection to the Arduino, the audio-out connection to the power switch, all relevant ground connections and one of the power connections from the power switch.

Power

45A.jpg
45B.jpg
guitarSchematic.png
Wire the two battery holdes in series.

Connect the ground wire from the battery holder to the terminal connected to the of the M-type power jack.

Connect the power wire from the battery holder to the terminal connected to the terminal of the M-type power jack that gets disconnected when a plug is inserted (typically the center terminal). In this way, when the charger is connected, the power gets disconnected from the circuit board and the batteries get charged.

Finally, connect the remaining ground wire from the power switch to the ground terminal on the power jack. Also, connect a red power wire from the remaining terminal on the power jack to the 12v power plane on the circuit board.

Batteries

46B.jpg
46A.jpg
Install rechargeable batteries into the battery holders.

Back Cover

47A.jpg
47B.jpg
47C.jpg
Fasten the back cover shut with 4-40 bolts.

Reattach the Strap Buttons

48A.jpg
48B.jpg

Fasten the strap buttons firmly back in place.

And It's Done...

49A.jpg

At this point, there is nothing left to do but to turn on the LED display by pressing the power switch and rocking out.

While this guitar is entirely rad - like anything else - it could always be better. Potential improvements include more LEDs, smaller rechargeable LiPo batteries, and adding Arduino frequency detection code to light up different colors for different notes.

Did you find this useful, fun, or entertaining?
Follow @madeineuphoria to see my latest projects.