G&P WOK MOE "Desert Storm" GBB Challenge Kit- Assembly and Operation

     This instructable will show you how to assemble and operate a G&P WOK Magpul "Desert Storm" Gas Blowback Challenge Kit.  You may be able to assemble a different G&P Challenge Kit with these instructions, but some sections may be slightly different. I'm sorry about any pictures of bad quality, my phone's camera wouldn't focus correctly sometimes.  Thanks to xplodingplastix on airsoftforum.com for his assembly instructions that helped me in addition to the provided instruction manual (his tutorial was for a slightly different model than the one for which I am making this instructable).  Special thanks and shoutout to Evike.com for being such a great company.

      Disclaimer: I am not liable for any injury to you or others, or damage to your airsoft gun or property, as a result of your assembly or use of the gun according to my instructions.  Always be safe and be sure to wear eye protection at all times!

To assemble the kit, you will need:
    -the G&P challenge kit (Note that not all parts will be used)
    -small mallet/hammer (I used a broken mini Maglite- this will get scratched up if you use one)
    -punch tool, or a small metal rod around 3" long
    -small steel screw with flat bottom, or metal rod described above
    -long nose pliers (you might want two, one that's relatively short, and one that's fairly long and is narrow at the tip)
    -screwdriver with a good variety of bits, including philips, flathead, and hex in various sizes.
    -metal files (small to medium size, nothing more than 1/2" wide should be necessary)
    -sprue cutters/wire cutters
    -ink barrel from a ballpoint pen
    -paper clip
    -scrap of paper (not critical, but helps avoid scratching up the receiver/other parts)
    -silicone oil lubricant
    -Liquid Wrench lubricant (this is what I used for most of the pins, but the silicone oil works fine too).  (I would not use WD-40 for           any application in this airsoft gun.)
    -clean work area (you don't want to be losing any of the smaller parts)

Before anything else, tap out the body pins and separate the upper receiver from the lower receiver.  

Place the receiver so that the body pin overhangs the table.  Place your punch tool onto the flat side of the body pin (on the side of the receiver with the Magpul symbol), and tap it with your mallet/hammer until the body pin has slid almost out of the receiver.  Repeat for the other pin.  

Note that spring-loaded pins in the receiver prevent the body pins from coming completely out.  Once you've done this, the upper receiver should lift vertically out of the lower receiver.

Place the larger spring onto the trigger as shown in the pictures.  

Next, put the screw into the front end of the trigger as shown.  Then, place the small spring into the notch in the trigger (if you look at it from the top, there is a circular cut out that the spring sits in).  Put the other metal piece into the notch, making sure the holes line up and the cut out fits over the spring as shown.  

Before inserting the trigger set into the receiver, test how hard it is to fit the pin into the trigger set.  If necessary, use a round file on the inside of the trigger.  File ONE of the holes of the receiver as shown, this will be the one you insert the pin through.  The other hole in the receiver should remain not filed so that the pin stays in place when fully assembled.  

Put the trigger set into the lower receiver, making sure the large spring stays against the forward part of the trigger as shown.  It may be easier to leave out the flat metal piece at first.  Put the pin into the side you filed, but only enough to slide through half of the trigger.  Press the metal piece into the rest of the trigger set, then slide the pin further in.  You should have to tap in the pin to make it fully inserted.

Place the large spring on the hammer as shown.  Insert the lip of each of the larger spacers into the hammer.  

The two 'prongs' of the spring on the hammer set will rest on the pin used to hold the trigger set in place.

Again, file the hole in only one side of the receiver.  Lower the hammer set into the receiver and tap the pin into place.  

Place the larger spring in the groove of the part shown.  Then, hold this against the larger metal part as shown.  

Place this assembly into the back of the lower receiver.  While holding it in place, screw it in from the bottom of the receiver with the screw provided.  

Using your long nose pliers (the narrower one, if available), insert the small spring into the hole in the buffer retainer set as shown.  After that, insert the small pin with the round side remaining outside of the part.  

Insert the fire selector into its hole in the receiver, making sure that it is pointed towards semi-auto as you insert it.  It will not go fully through, as it is stopped by the spring loaded pin.  Use your long nose pliers (again, the narrower one) to hold the pin down as you slide the selector pin fully into the receiver.

Inserting this piece into the receiver is very difficult.  First, put the pin into one side of the receiver so it protrudes into the inside by only a few millimeters.  Again, only file the hole on one side of the receiver if necessary.  

Place one of the spacers and the metal piece onto the pin, as shown.  Place the spring against the metal piece, with the longer 'prong' on the side of the piece with  the long part projecting from it, and stick the pin halfway through the spring, as shown.  

The longer 'prong' will rest on the side of the selector switch that is closer to the front of the receiver.  The shorter 'prong' will stick out the top, and rest on the top of the metal piece.  Use your pliers to bend the shorter prong towards the front of the receiver, and behind the metal piece.  This will cause the spring to bend backwards slightly, which is okay at this point.  

Proceed to slide the pin further inwards as far as you can, and tap it completely in.  

Unscrew the two parts of the main metal block.  Place the longer spring and 'firing pin' against half of the block like shown.  

In my kit, it was necessary to file part of the 'firing pin' and oil it before it could slide freely in the metal block.  To test this, hold the metal block together with your hand and try to push the firing pin.  If it does not slide freely or spring back into place freely, you need to file as shown in the picture.  Once it slides freely, screw the block together with firing pin and spring inside.  

Next, place the spring inside the hole in the block as shown.  With your sprue/wire cutters, cut off a piece of the pen ink barrel about half a centimeter long.  Place this into the same hole as the spring (it should stick out a bit).  

Put the bolt catch lever into place as shown, and secure with the included pin.  The section of pen barrel should push against the lower part of the bolt catch lever.  

Lastly, push the hammer down until it locks into place, and put the bolt catch assembly into the lower receiver as shown.

In addition to holding the magazine in place, this set secures the bolt catch set.  Place the magazine catch into the receiver as shown.  
Next, place the spring onto it through the hole in the other side of the receiver.  

Then, push the magazine release button into the hole, compressing the spring.  Push it as far into the receiver as you can, and rotate the magazine catch in order to screw it into the magazine release button, as shown.  You may need to put something between your finger and the magazine release button so that you can push it in far enough to screw the magazine catch on completely.  

Screw the ring onto the threaded end of the buffer tube as shown.  Then place the other piece onto the buffer tube, with the little bump towards the threaded end of the buffer tube.  

Screw the buffer tube into the back of the lower receiver, until it doesn't screw in any further, then unscrew until it is aligned correctly, as shown.  Screw the ring into place, securing both pieces against the receiver.  

Place the buffer into the spring, and place both into the buffer tube.  These will be held back by the buffer retainer set as shown.

Place the small spring into its indentation in the forward assist.  Next, place the other metal piece into the forward assist as shown, with the holes aligning.  

Secure them together with the pin provided, making sure that the spring does not come out of place as you do so.  It may be helpful to hold the pin with pliers as you tap it in.  

Slide the large spring over the whole assembly.  Place it into the upper receiver as shown.  

Test which hole the pin fits easier into by hand (top or bottom).  While holding the forward assist in place, tap the pin into place.  It may be helpful to have someone else depress the forward assist while you tap in the pin.  

While this gun does not eject any shells, the ejection port cover still prevents dust from entering the receiver.

Put the pin through the hole in the receiver and halfway through the ejection port cover as shown.  Put the spring in place, with the longer 'prong' on the right side, and resting on the ejection port cover.  Push the pin completely through.

The pin has a short section that is narrower than the rest.  The small ring will fit over this, between the receiver and ejection port cover.  This is to ensure that the pin does not slide out.  This may be necessary on the left or right side of the ejection port cover.  

To test which side, close the ejection port cover.  Check which side has more space.  If necessary, pull out the pin and put it in the other way around so that the narrower section aligns with the space between the ejection port cover and receiver.

Place the ring on that narrower section of the pin, between the ejection port cover and receiver.  Put a small scrap of paper behind it, so that you don't scratch the receiver with whatever you use to tap the pin in place.  Use a small steel rod or screw with your hammer/mallet to tap it into place.  It should only require one, quick tap.

Place the two smallest O-rings onto the small metal piece as shown.  Secure the spring to the metal part with the pin provided.

Place the largest O-ring onto the second largest plastic part.  Push the pin into the plastic part halfway, so it protrudes partly into the inside as shown.

Straighten out a paperclip, and bend the end into a right angle.  Use this to hook the end of the spring through the plastic part, and place onto the section of the pin protruding into the inside.  Then, push or tap the pin the rest of the way in quickly, so that the spring does not fall off the pin.  

Place the other spring onto the small narrow plastic part as shown.  Place the two small plastic parts into the largest plastic part.

File the end of the largest part a little bit, so the other assembly fits better. Insert the second largest part (the one with the O-rings) and secure with the pin as shown.

Slide the plastic nozzle assembly from the last step into the bolt carrier, small metal part first as shown.

Lock it in place with the rectangular plastic part included.   Note the two nubs on the bolt carrier- you will need to file parts of the plastic part as shown so it is relatively flush with the rest of the bolt carrier.

Use the locking ring on the small metal part from the nozzle assembly.  Again, it's usually good to put a piece of paper behind it to avoid scratching the part.  Use your metal rod/punch tool/screw with mallet/hammer to tap it into place.

Place the charging handle on the top of the bolt carrier as shown.

Slide both into the upper receiver (it may be helpful to oil everything before you do so).

First, put the small spring into the hole in the hop-up bar as shown.  Place it into the half of the hop-up assembly as shown in the picture.

Place the smallest O-ring into the indent on the outside of the barrel.  Place the hop-up bucking next.  The rectangular indentation on the outside of the barrel should be directly above the gap on the end of the barrel (If you look in, you should see a small rubber bump protruding where the gap in the barrel is).

Place the barrel inside the hop-up assembly, making sure the rectangular protrusion on the hop-up bucking fits inside the indentation in the steel hop-up assembly.  

Put on the other half of the hop-up assembly and secure with the two largest O-rings.

Place the hop-up dial onto the barrel as shown, followed by the remaining O-ring (second smallest).

Push everything into the hop-up casing, making sure the protrusions from the hop-up assembly fit into their respective indentations in the hop-up casing.

This is one of the more difficult parts of the build.  

Place the piece with a gear-like shape through the top of the delta ring (the smaller end) so that one of the indents lines up with the hole.

On the other side, place the spring, so that the gap lines up with the holes.

Place the locking ring onto the groove in the piece that has a gear-like part.  Make sure the gap lines up with the holes.  This can be done by holding one half in place with your hand, and using a flathead screwdriver as a kind of lever to push it in place.  Repeat with the other half of the ring.

Insert the end of the gas tube with a hole into the front sight.  There is a bend in the gas tube, it should be farther from the outer barrel on the end that is not in the front sight.

Secure with the pin provided (oil may help here).

Insert the inner barrel with hop-up assembly into the outer barrel, so that the protrusions from the hop-up casing fit into the indentations in the outer barrel.

Place the outer barrel into the upper receiver as shown, with the round protrusion fitting in the indentation in the upper receiver.  It may be helpful to slide out the charging handle and bolt assembly before doing this so that they don't accidentally slide out.

Slide the delta ring onto the outer barrel, and tighten it by rotating the gear-shaped piece.  You may have the tool to do this, I didn't.

Align the gaps in the gear-shape, the spring, and the locking ring.  This can be done with several methods: with a paper clip (only works for spring), long-nose pliers for the locking ring, or your steel rod/punch tool.  

Put the gas tube through the small circular hole in the top of the handguard cap, making sure the 'open' side of the handguard cap faces away from the front sight.

Slide both of these onto the outer barrel, and thread the gas tube through the holes in the delta ring and upper receiver.

Rotate the front sight a little bit until both holes in the bottom are clear of obstructions.

Tap the pins through the holes in the front sight, attaching it to the outer barrel.  Make sure you tap them in smooth end first.  Some liquid wrench or silicone oil might be helpful here.

Place the O-ring onto the outer barrel as shown.

Place the thick steel ring over it, with the lip facing inward, so the O-ring is partially covered.

Screw on the flashhider.  If you use the orange plastic one, use the small screw to secure it in place.

You may find that the flashhider is not positioned as you like when it is fully tightened.  If you want, you can use the metal spacers between the steel ring and O-ring so that the flashhider is positioned correctly when fully tightened.

Before you join the upper and lower receiver, please do yourself a favor and give all the internals a good amount of silicon oil (especially the bolt assembly, charging handle, buffer system, and hammer).  You don't need to oil the inside of the inner barrel/hop-up (I'd actually recommend against it, but please correct me if I'm wrong).

Arrange the upper and lower receiver so that the body pins stick upwards (not like the first photo).  Push the upper receiver downwards into the lower receiver.

Tap the body pins into place while making sure the upper receiver does not move.  It may be helpful to oil the pins as shown so they slide easier.

Place the rifle, barrel up, onto a solid surface as shown for the first half.  You could also rest it against your thigh, as shown for the second half.

Place the semi-circle protrusion on the front of the upper half of the handguard into the handguard cap.  Pull down the delta ring with one hand, and press the rear side of this half of the handguard into the delta ring.

Repeat for the lower half of the handguard.

The pin inside the stock needs to fit over the part of the buffer tube that prevents the stock from slipping completely off.

In order to make this happen, I found it useful to put a sort of spacer between the lever you press and the pins it presses in turn.
I would recommend an allen wrench (if it's large enough), or a screwdriver bit (again, if large enough).

You can put either of these in place by pressing on the pin from the inside with your finger, than putting the spacer in place with your other hand.

Use your thumb to prevent the spacer from slipping out, press on the lever, and the stock should slide smoothly onto the buffer tube.

The screw to attach the pistol grip can be found inside the storage compartment in the grip.  Press the small lever, and pull the cover straight out, parallel to the length of the grip.  (I got confused at first because I thought it would swing out :P)

If your pistol grip fits on, then the best way to put it on is to put the screw on top of your screwdriver, then put the grip onto it and screw it into the receiver.  Don't forget to put the storage compartment cover back on.

However, mine did not fit, as some of the ridges on the inside of the grip were angled inwards, preventing it from sliding on.  This can be solved by lightly filing the upper part of those ridges (mine were tapered, and the lower halves were fine).  Note that you don't want to make the fit too loose, so that the pistol grip is securely held to the receiver.

Unscrew the flathead screw from the rear sight.

Slide the rear sight onto the receiver's rail, while holding the hex nut in place in the back.

Tighten the screw.


CONGRATULATIONS!!!  You have completed assembly of your challenge kit.

The front sight can be deployed pressing on the top of the button as shown.  Watch out, the upper part of the sight can smack your finger if you're not careful.

The rear sight allows for two different apertures.  The first is when two parts are closed, and gives a smaller aperture.  If you pull forwards on the little tab on the top, the two parts will separate and you get a larger aperture.  Which one you use is really personal preference.  The larger one may be better for low light situations, or if you need to sight in super super quickly, but may be a tiny bit less accurate depending on how good of a marksman you are.

Put on eye protection.  If anyone is watching, give them eye protection too.  Guys, it's your eyes, and you only have two of them.

Hold the magazine upside down, and place the nozzle of your green gas can into the brass hole in the magazine.  Press it down for about 5 seconds (the sound of the gas flowing should stop).  

Load 6mm airsoft bbs (I recommend .20's.  Seriously guys, it's a gas gun.) into the top of the magazine.  This can be done by hand, or with a speed loader.  If you use a speed loader, you'll need to put your finger against the front of the mag so the bbs don't just fall out the front.

Put the magazine into the magwell, and push upwards until the magazine catch clicks into place.  Pull back the charging handle as far as it will go (you'll need to pull back on the small lever on the side of the charging handle), and release it so the bolt slides forward.  If it doesn't slide forward, refer to the next step (Troubleshooting).

If the bolt slides forward, you're ready to fire.  Shoulder the rifle if you haven't done so already, select semi or full (I strongly recommend a few rounds on semi before going full), and pull the trigger.  If the gun fires, but the bolt stays back, refer to the next step (Troubleshooting).

When the mag is empty, the bolt should catch when it is back in the buffer tube (you can't see much of the bolt through the ejection port).  Hold the mag and press the mag release button to remove your magazine.  

If you have only one mag, wait for it to heat up a little bit to room temperature before you reload it with gas and bbs.  If you have another mag, you can now put it in the magwell, press the bolt release lever to let the bolt slide back into place, and continue firing.

The only real problem I've had is that the bolt does not slide forward after either pulling back the charging handle, or firing a shot.  This is because part of the bolt carrier is getting caught on the hammer.  

To prevent this, you can place spacers inside the buffer tube before putting in the spring and buffer so that the buffer/bolt do not slide as far back in the buffer tube.  People commonly use several quarters, but I used two rubber hose washers and one quarter (the one quarter is necessary so the buffer actually contacts something).  You may need to trim some extra rubber from the sides of the hose washers if you use those.  Don't use a nickel like in the picture, as it is a little too small.

Just unscrew the ring on the buffer tube, and unscrew the buffer tube from the receiver.  Be careful, as the buffer and buffer spring will want to come out of the buffer tube.  Remove the spring and buffer (preferably not by letting them shoot across the room :P).  Place the spacers you want to use inside the buffer tube, or on top of the spring, then place everything into the buffer tube.

Screw the buffer tube back into the receiver and screw the ring back into place.

If you hear the spring rattling in the buffer tube after firing a shot, that's normal.  If you don't want it to make as much noise, I will post shortly how I will 'fix' this.

EDIT (October 8, 2013)- I've found a way to get rid of the noise in the buffer tube caused by the buffer spring ratting around.  You only need a bit of teflon tape, that thin white tape about 1/2 cm wide used to seal the threads on pipe connections.  I wouldn't recommend anything thicker, as it may hinder the movement of the buffer spring or cause it to get stuck.

Tie the end of it to one end of the spring, and wrap around the rest of it as shown in the pictures.  I found that the best way to wrap it is to rotate the spring, and move the tape around the section of spring you are wrapping.  Don't worry if it gets twisted, but try not to wrap more than one layer on any given section of the spring.  If you can get it to stay untwisted, you can cover a bit more surface area with less tape.  

Before reinserting the spring, make sure that the ends of the spring are not in a position to scratch the inside of the buffer tube.  You can file them down if you wish just to be sure.  Be sure to check the tape fairly frequently, as the teflon tape will wear down over time.

Thanks for viewing my instructable!!  I'm not asking you to favorite or subscribe -okay, yes I am-,  but I hope you enjoyed building this rifle as much as I did!  Feel free to comment below with questions, concerns, constructive criticism or anything else you feel the need to express.