GOKART BODY MOD

by CarlV25 in Workshop > Metalworking

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GOKART BODY MOD

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SELF TAPPING SCREWS
SHEET METAL, SHEET METAL SCISSORS , RUBBER GARDEN EDGING, FUEL LINE, HAMMERS, COUPLE 2X4, WOOD, FENCE POLL, OLD DRIER, ALLEN HEAD BOLTS, SPOILER FROM PICKUP,1/2 X 1/2 SQUARE TUBING,CARD BOARD ,DUCT TAPE ,POP RIVETS,POP RIVET GUN

Supplies

SELF TAPPING SCREWS

SHEET METAL, SHEET METAL SCISSORS , RUBBER GARDEN EDGING, FUEL LINE, HAMMERS, COUPLE 2X4, WOOD, FENCE POLL, OLD DRIER, ALLEN HEAD BOLTS, SPOILER FROM PICKUP,1/2 X 1/2 SQUARE TUBING,CARD BOARD ,DUCT TAPE ,POP RIVETS,POP RIVET GUN

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EVERY GO KART IS DIFFERENT ,SO I WONT BE GIVING MEASUREMENTS TO CUT YOUR MATERIAL.ILL SHOW WHAT I DID AND HOW I DID IT.ALL METAL FABRICATION WAS DONE BY HAND NO POWER TOOLS WERE USED.I USED A FENCE PIPE AND HAMMERS AND A COUPLE WOOD 2 X 4 TO GET A STRAIGHT EDGE

MOUNT YOUR MOTOR

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YOU NEED THE MOTOR MOUNTED SO YOU KNOW HOW HIGH TO HAVE YOUR FENDERS.YOU NEED TO BE ABLE TO GET TO THE PULL START ,AND IN MY CASE THE CARBURATOR

FENDER MOUNTS

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TAKE THE SQUARE TUBING AND ;LAY ACROSS THE BACK BEHIND THE SEAT. YOU WANT TO GO FROM THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF ONE TIRE TO THE OTHER TIRE. YOU DONT WANT THE TUBING STICKING OUT PAST THE TIRE BECAUSE YOU WILL HIT IT ON EVERYTHING WHEN DRIVING OR EVEN WALKING PAST IT. THATS THE BAR THE BACK FENDER WILL BOLT TO .FIGURE OUT HOW HIGH YOU WANT IT ABOVE THE MAIN FRAME.. THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE FENDER WILL BE FLUSH ACROSS IT. THEN CUT TWO SMALLER PIECES AND WELD TOGETHER MAKING A DOUBLE T. WELD IT TO THE FRAME WHERE IT IS MARKED BY THE RED DOTS

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MAKE ANOTHER DOUBLE T THE SAME AS BEFORE .MAKE SURE THE HEIGHT IS RIGHT .THE HIGHER YOU HAVE THE FENDER THE MORE OF THE MOTOR WILL BE COVERED . SINCE ITS AIR COOLED YOU DONT WANT IT COMPLETELY COVERED SO IT DOESNT RUN HOT. THEN WELD IT ON THE VERY BACK PART OF THE FRAME ON THE RED DOTS .YOU CAN ONLY SEE ONE BUT WELD IT IN TWO SPOTS

FRONT BODY MOUNT

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THERE IS NO RIGHT OR WRONG AS LONG AS IT WORKS FOR YOU .IN MY CASE I HAD TO COME UP OFF THE FRAME TO CLEAR THE STEERING LINKAGE AND THEN FORWARD. ITS YOUR CHOICE HOW FAR AND HOW LOW YOU WANT THE FRAME. .GOING IN AND OUT OF DRIVE WAYS I WOULD DRAG THE GROUND A LITTLE BIT . THE MORE YOU GO FORWARD THE LESS IT WILL CLEAR DIPS AND THINGS LIKE THAT.AGAIN WELD AT THE RED DOTS

BUILD THE BODY

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BEFORE YOU START CUTTING GET SOME CARD BOARD AND CUT OUT EVERYTHING IN CARDBOARD FIRST . USE DUCT TAPE TO SECURE IT . SECURE THE CARD BOARD ON ONE SIDE OF THE FRAMES YOU WELDED . IN THE FRONT AND REAR ON ONE SIDE ONLY. CUTTING AS NEEDED FIT AROUND HALF THE MOTOR .AS YOU BEND THE CARD BOARD TO THE OTHER MOUNT IF IT RUBS THE TIRE MAKE THE PIECE LONGER SO IT BOWS UP AND CLEARS.THE TIRE. WHEN EVERYTHING CLEARS AND ITS HOW YOU WANT TAPE IT IN PLACE AND DO THE OTHER SIDE.. WHEN BOTH SIDES ARE DONE CHECK AND MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS SQUARE AND EVEN. IN THE MIDDLE WHERE THE TWO SIDES COME TOGETHER BEHIND THE SEAT MAKE SURE THE RADIUS OF THE BEND MATCHES SO IT LOOKS RIGHT. MAKE SURE THE FENDER COVERS THE SAME AMOUNT OF THE TIRE ON BOTH SIDES IN THE PICTURES I SHOW WHERE I BENT MINE .ALSO WHERE I PUT SCREWS TO MAKE IT ONE PIECE ,AND WHERE IT BOLTS TO THE FRAME .HALF OF MY CLUTCH STICKS OUT ABOVE THE FENDER SO I MADE A PIECE TO COVER THE CHAIN . NOTE THE RED ARROW. .AFTER YOU HAVE A CARDBOARD COPY OF BOTH SIDES AND FITTED TO THE FRAME . GET THE SHEET METAL AND CUT IT OUT BEFORE YOU BEND IT. WHEN ITS CUT OUT AND BENT MOUNT IT TO THE FRAME. MAKE SURE THE TWO PIECES OVERLAP IN THE CENTER SO YOU CAN BOLT THEM TOGETHER SO IT IS ONE PIECE IM NOT SURE IF I SAID BUT,USE THE CARD BOARD AS A PATTERN

MAKING THE NOSE

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GET MORE CARD BOARD AND MAKE THE NOSE BYFOLDING IT TO MAKE A CONEOR WHAT EVER SHAPE YOU WANT .MAKE SURE IT FITS ON THE NOSE AFTER ITS FOLDED BY SLIDING ON FROM THE FRONT.IF ITS GOOD CUT IT OUT FROM THE COPY YOU MADE AFTER YOU KNOW HOW MUCH SHEET METAL YOU NEED FOR THE FRONT. CUT OT THE SHEET METAL AND USE PIPE OR FENCE POST TO BEND IT. PUT A COUPLE SCREWS ON THE BOTTOM TO HOLD IT TOGETHER AND SLIDE IT ON THE NOSE AND BOLT IT DOWN. IT WILL ONLY GO SO FAR BEFORE YOU GET TO THE STEERING LINKAGE .TURN THE WHEEL BOTH WAYS AND MAKE SURE IT CLEARS. THEN TAKE ANOTHER PIECE OF CARD BOARD FOR THE TOP .YOU CAN SEE THE TWO DIFFERENT PIECES OF METAL BY THE COLOR CHANGE RIGHT ABOVE THE FRONT TIRES GET YOUR PATTERN THEN CUT IT OUT. BEND IT AND BOLT IT USING SELF TAPPERS THEN YOU CAN MAKE A PIECE FOR THE SIDE AROUND THE STEERING LINKAGE .AGAIN USE CARDBOARD AND TURN THE WHEEL TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING CLEARS.I MARKED WITH ARROWS AND A THIN RED LINE WHERE TO BEND WITH A PIPE OVERLAP THE OTHER BODY PARTS AND BOLT OR POP RIVET IN PLACE.MAKE SURE YOU CAN TURN WHEEL WITHOUT RUBBING

SIDE PANELS

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PUT SIDE PANELS TO SEAL UP THE SEAT AREA SO ROCKS CANT FLY UP . AGAIN USE CARD BOARD TO FIGURE OUT WHAT YOU NEED THEN CUT THE METAL I SHOW WITH RED LINES AND ARROWS WHERE I BENT MINE .THEN BOLT THEM WITH SELF TAPPERS.I LEFT MINE ABOUT 3 OR 4 INCHES ABOVE THE GROUND SO I COULD USE RUBBER FOR THE SKIRTS SO IF IT RUBS THE GROUND OR HIT A DIP IT DOESNT BEND THE SIDES

REAR WING

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TAKE THE 1/2 X 1/2 TUBING AND MAKE AN "A" FRAME TO FIT ON THE BACK PART OF THE FRAME THE RED DOTS SHOW WHERE I WELDED MINE..GET YOUR ALLEN HEAD BOLTS AND NUTS PUT THE NUTS INSIDE THE TUBBING AND WELD IN PLACE.I LEFT THE BOLTS IN WHILE WELDING SO I WOULDNT TEAR UP THE THREADS.I ALSO MOUNTED THE FUEL TANK THERE BECAUSE ITS CLOSE TO THE CARB AND GRAVITY FEEDS IT MY TANK IS PLASTIC AND IT FIT SO TIGHT AFTER DRILLING HOLES IN THE WING FOR THE ALLEN BOLTS AND FUEL CAP AND BOLTING DOWN THE WING THE TANK WAS VERY TIGHT .I ALSO HEATED THE PLASTIC TANK AND PRESSED IT DOWN .IT WILL NOT MOVE AT ALL.THE LITTLE CHROME SPOILER WAS BENT USING A FENCE POST AND MOUNTED WITH TWO SELF TAPPERS

FRONT WING

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I USED MORE SQUARE TUBING AND WELDED A FLAT PIECE OF PLATE .THEN USED SELF TAPPERS TO BOLT IT TO THE FRAME UNDER THE FRONT .THEN 3" PLASTIC PVC PIPE WAS HEATED AND PRESSED BETWEEN THE 2 X 4 WOOD TO GET THE EDGE ON ONE SIDE PUT THE PVC OVER THE TUBING AND ADJUST THE ANGLE YOU WANT THEN MORE SELF TAPPERS

STEERING COVER AND SKELETON

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THEW TOP COVER IS FROM A DRIER IN THE BACK OF THE DRIER IT IS USED TO TRANSFER THE HEAT FROM THE BURNER TO THE TUMBLER. ALMOST NO MOD WORK WAS REQUIRED IT PRETTY MUCH FIT RIGHT ON .USE SELF TAPPERS MARKED BY THE ARROWS .THE SKELETON IS CUT OUT FROM THE SIDE OF THE DRIER THE HEAD IS PLASTIC WITH A MAGNET EPOXIED ON THE BOTTOM I I GOT THE MAGNET FROM A HARD DRIVE I USE SELF TAPPERS FOR THE SKELETON BODY

THATS IT

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REMEMBER THERE IS NO RIGHT OR WRONG LET YOUR IMAGINATION LEAD YOU AND HAVE FUN .AS YOU CAN SEE MINE CHANGES AS OFTEN AS THE WEATHER. GET FUEL LINE AND SLICE LENGTH WISE FOR ANY SHARP CORNERS AND LANDSCAPING BOARDERS TO MAKE THE SKIRTS FOR BODY PANELS TO THE GROUND AND ABOVE TIRES.AND AGAIN MOST OF ALL HAVE FUN