G.I.D. Test Tube Halloween Prop
by JennyT131313 in Workshop > Lighting
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G.I.D. Test Tube Halloween Prop
I made this from designs in my head for Halloween in October 2018!
Build the Test Tube Holder
Tools required:
Pencil
tape
set square
hole saw drill bit/flat blade 22mm (25mm/1" is a little too large) Just ensure slightly larger than test tube diameter
drill
Hacksaw
Clamp
Vice
File
Rag
Materials required:
10mm dowel rod (hardware store)
40mm x 12mm x length dressed pine (base)
25mm x 8mm x same length (top)
6 glass, corked, test tubes (dollar store)
PVA white wood glue
Steps:
Cut 2 lengths of dowel about same height as test tubes.
Cut one piece each of 25/40mm dressed pine about 8"/20cm in length. Ensuring there's enough space between test tubes and a little over on each end - see pictures.
Measure hole placement to ensure even distribution of test tubes. Mark centres to show where to drill on bottom piece with pencil and set square. Also mark holes for end dowel rods.
Place top under bottom and clamp together
Using flat blade hole saw drill bit in drill, secure in vice and drill through bottom piece until centre spike marks underneath board to ensure holes are in the same place. Base only needs cavities to sit dowel and test tubes into, top requires full holes as both dowel and test tubes stick through.
Remove wood from vice and clamp. Place top back in vice and drill hole out entirely, slowly so as to minimise wood fracture.
Your top and bottom should now look liked those pictured.
Check to ensure test tubes fit in holes, if not use file to enlarge slightly. Once all test tubes can fit in all holes you can start gluing. Place a small amount of glue in dowell cavities, one at a time, use set square to ensure they are straight, make sure top fits width wise, allow to dry.
Place top on and ensure all year tubes fit and everything is straight and square.
Mark height of top placement.
Place base vertically in vice, so top will dry in place. Now add glue to inside of dowel holes and slip over dowel to mark. Use rag to wipe away excess glue. Allow to dry.
Remove from vice.
Pencil
tape
set square
hole saw drill bit/flat blade 22mm (25mm/1" is a little too large) Just ensure slightly larger than test tube diameter
drill
Hacksaw
Clamp
Vice
File
Rag
Materials required:
10mm dowel rod (hardware store)
40mm x 12mm x length dressed pine (base)
25mm x 8mm x same length (top)
6 glass, corked, test tubes (dollar store)
PVA white wood glue
Steps:
Cut 2 lengths of dowel about same height as test tubes.
Cut one piece each of 25/40mm dressed pine about 8"/20cm in length. Ensuring there's enough space between test tubes and a little over on each end - see pictures.
Measure hole placement to ensure even distribution of test tubes. Mark centres to show where to drill on bottom piece with pencil and set square. Also mark holes for end dowel rods.
Place top under bottom and clamp together
Using flat blade hole saw drill bit in drill, secure in vice and drill through bottom piece until centre spike marks underneath board to ensure holes are in the same place. Base only needs cavities to sit dowel and test tubes into, top requires full holes as both dowel and test tubes stick through.
Remove wood from vice and clamp. Place top back in vice and drill hole out entirely, slowly so as to minimise wood fracture.
Your top and bottom should now look liked those pictured.
Check to ensure test tubes fit in holes, if not use file to enlarge slightly. Once all test tubes can fit in all holes you can start gluing. Place a small amount of glue in dowell cavities, one at a time, use set square to ensure they are straight, make sure top fits width wise, allow to dry.
Place top on and ensure all year tubes fit and everything is straight and square.
Mark height of top placement.
Place base vertically in vice, so top will dry in place. Now add glue to inside of dowel holes and slip over dowel to mark. Use rag to wipe away excess glue. Allow to dry.
Remove from vice.
Sand, Paint, Waterproof, Etc
Tools required:
Drop sheet for painting on
Sandpaper
Paint brush - optional
Materials required:
Assembled test tube stand
Spray Paint/varnish - color of your choice.
Give entire wooden surface a light sanding to ensure clean, dry, smooth surface.
Place drop sheet on work surface/ground.
Spray paint evenly or brush varnish on. I recommend at least 2 coats. Allow to dry between coats add per instructions on packaging.
Once you are happy with finish slow to dry overnight to ensure super dry.
I recommend don't paint inside cavities and holes as this will reduce the diameter and potentially make test tubes too right.
Drop sheet for painting on
Sandpaper
Paint brush - optional
Materials required:
Assembled test tube stand
Spray Paint/varnish - color of your choice.
Give entire wooden surface a light sanding to ensure clean, dry, smooth surface.
Place drop sheet on work surface/ground.
Spray paint evenly or brush varnish on. I recommend at least 2 coats. Allow to dry between coats add per instructions on packaging.
Once you are happy with finish slow to dry overnight to ensure super dry.
I recommend don't paint inside cavities and holes as this will reduce the diameter and potentially make test tubes too right.
Fill Test Tubes
Materials needed:
Test tubes with corks, the ones I found at the local dollar store have flat bottoms so they stand up!!
Neon slime, I found small vials of it but only in 5 colours, also from a dollar store. I needed 4 packets but had some leftover.
Removing slime from vitals and feeding into test tubes is messy and tricky, good luck!!
As I only had 5 colours my 6th tube got layers of all the colours. It's in the middle.
I only filled them to no less than 5mm below cork level doll as to allow led lights to glow.
Test tubes with corks, the ones I found at the local dollar store have flat bottoms so they stand up!!
Neon slime, I found small vials of it but only in 5 colours, also from a dollar store. I needed 4 packets but had some leftover.
Removing slime from vitals and feeding into test tubes is messy and tricky, good luck!!
As I only had 5 colours my 6th tube got layers of all the colours. It's in the middle.
I only filled them to no less than 5mm below cork level doll as to allow led lights to glow.
Electronics
Tools required:
Soldering iron
Solder
Wire strippers
Cutters
Drill
Drill bit large enough to make hole for switch
Materials required:
6 x 5mm UV LEDs (Jaycar)
1 x 300 ohm resistor (Jaycar)
Red/black electrical wire
Heatshrink tubing black, 3-5mm (optional)
1 x Toggle switch with 2 on/1 off positions (Jaycar)
2 x 9V batteries
2 x Snap on terminal with leads
Box for batteries
Extra washers (optional)
Small clear cable(zip) ties
Decide where you want holes and drill a hole in the box for the switch to poke through and another for wires to exit. Set box aside.
Drill countersink style hole in centre of small end of corks with 6mm drill bit so LED pokes out a little, then still 2 tiny holes for LED legs to poke through large top side of cork.
I'm now assuming you have a basic understanding of how to solder.
I stripped sections in the middle of the wires as I went but this doesn't allow for heatshrink tubing to cover exposed solder points. Otherwise lots of small lengths will be needed of both red and black electrical wire and heatshrink tubing.
The LEDs need to be inserted through corks and corked placed in test tubes, makes calculating wired length easier, before you start to solder wires on.
The should be wired in series. Connect all red to positive legs and all black to negative legs and connect all same legs to gather in line. Leave a length at end long enough to reach battery box. Connect resistor to either wire, feed through appropriate hole in box and solder them to middle of switch. Connect battery terminal wires, one terminal to each side of switch. Ensure all red wires to same side of switch., black to other side.
You should now be able to plug in both batteries and throw the switch in either direction to illuminate leds. The 2 battery idea is to have a more continuous battery life.
Attach switch to box with included nut and washers, add washers if necessary. Seal box.
Use cable ties to attach weird to rod at top and bottom.
I also attached the box in a sitter of hinged fashion so I could still replace batteries when necessary.
Always disconnect batteries before storing away.
Soldering iron
Solder
Wire strippers
Cutters
Drill
Drill bit large enough to make hole for switch
Materials required:
6 x 5mm UV LEDs (Jaycar)
1 x 300 ohm resistor (Jaycar)
Red/black electrical wire
Heatshrink tubing black, 3-5mm (optional)
1 x Toggle switch with 2 on/1 off positions (Jaycar)
2 x 9V batteries
2 x Snap on terminal with leads
Box for batteries
Extra washers (optional)
Small clear cable(zip) ties
Decide where you want holes and drill a hole in the box for the switch to poke through and another for wires to exit. Set box aside.
Drill countersink style hole in centre of small end of corks with 6mm drill bit so LED pokes out a little, then still 2 tiny holes for LED legs to poke through large top side of cork.
I'm now assuming you have a basic understanding of how to solder.
I stripped sections in the middle of the wires as I went but this doesn't allow for heatshrink tubing to cover exposed solder points. Otherwise lots of small lengths will be needed of both red and black electrical wire and heatshrink tubing.
The LEDs need to be inserted through corks and corked placed in test tubes, makes calculating wired length easier, before you start to solder wires on.
The should be wired in series. Connect all red to positive legs and all black to negative legs and connect all same legs to gather in line. Leave a length at end long enough to reach battery box. Connect resistor to either wire, feed through appropriate hole in box and solder them to middle of switch. Connect battery terminal wires, one terminal to each side of switch. Ensure all red wires to same side of switch., black to other side.
You should now be able to plug in both batteries and throw the switch in either direction to illuminate leds. The 2 battery idea is to have a more continuous battery life.
Attach switch to box with included nut and washers, add washers if necessary. Seal box.
Use cable ties to attach weird to rod at top and bottom.
I also attached the box in a sitter of hinged fashion so I could still replace batteries when necessary.
Always disconnect batteries before storing away.
Finishing Touches
Tools required:
Hot glue gun and glue sticks
Materials required:
Test tube stand
Adornments
I chose to place a small skull on each of the dowel rods on either end.
I did this by choosing where and how I wanted the skulls aligned, then placing a small glob of hot glue on one rod and immediately placing skull and aligning it. Hot glue dries pretty quickly so do one at a time.
You can add any other adornments you like but once it's dark and the LEDs are activated you won't really see them so don't go overboard.
Hot glue gun and glue sticks
Materials required:
Test tube stand
Adornments
I chose to place a small skull on each of the dowel rods on either end.
I did this by choosing where and how I wanted the skulls aligned, then placing a small glob of hot glue on one rod and immediately placing skull and aligning it. Hot glue dries pretty quickly so do one at a time.
You can add any other adornments you like but once it's dark and the LEDs are activated you won't really see them so don't go overboard.
DIY Kits Available for Purchase.
Price determined when purchased due to inflation and postage available worldwide.
Includes:
Wood cut and drilled.
6 test tubes with drilled corks.
6 x 5mm UV LEDs
1 x 300ohm resistor
Battery box
Switch
You will need:
2 x 9V batteries
Electrical wire
Heatshrink tubing (optional)
Test tube filling slime or liquid (+gelatin)
Paint/varnish
Sandpaper
Tools required
Above instructions, although a printed copy can be included.
Includes:
Wood cut and drilled.
6 test tubes with drilled corks.
6 x 5mm UV LEDs
1 x 300ohm resistor
Battery box
Switch
You will need:
2 x 9V batteries
Electrical wire
Heatshrink tubing (optional)
Test tube filling slime or liquid (+gelatin)
Paint/varnish
Sandpaper
Tools required
Above instructions, although a printed copy can be included.