Furry Foot Warmer for Your Desk

by velacreations in Craft > Sewing

11291 Views, 101 Favorites, 0 Comments

Furry Foot Warmer for Your Desk

11696804496_44eb9cff74.jpg
11696268043_56a9870eb0.jpg
Unfortunately, most of us have to spend at least some time sitting at a desk or table. Whether we work full-time in an office, or have to catch up on odd jobs like accounts, writing, sewing, artwork, even eating. And when sedentary, our circulation tends to be less effective, which at this time of year means that our feet can get cold. Ever had that?
 
Well, that was the reasoning behind making one of these furry foot warmers – for those chilly days when you just have to be sat at a desk. And I have to admit that it feels awesome. Very comfortable, extremely warm, and sensual to boot.
 
Of course, you don’t have to use real fur. We keep rabbits as a way of providing our family with the meat that we eat. The fur is a by-product, albeit a luxurious one. Rather than waste this commodity, we tan the pelts and make all kinds of warm and beautiful items. For more info about raising rabbits for meat, or tanning the hides, click here.
 
I’ve made two of these warmers so far. I started out doing a 14” square, but it was a little big. For this kind of thing, cozy is definitely a better option, so I did another at 10” square. It’s perfect for both my husband (size 10 ½) and I (size 7). This is the size that this article will describe. 

How to Raise Rabbits

Tan Rabbit Hides and Fur

Tools and Materials

11668086403_d088395ea0.jpg
11668178274_2a7f3306a3.jpg
MATERIALS:
  • Denim, or other heavy weave fabric – 20” x 20”
  • Shower Curtain – 26” x 15”
  • Rabbit pelts – 5 to 10, depending on size
  • Stuffing – fur removed from hides, or synthetic – enough for a 10” x 10” x 2” bag

TOOLS:
  • Sewing machine
  • Scissors
  • Tape measure
  • Fabric markers
  • Needle, thread, pins, etc.

Outer Casing

11668064633_50e65e9978.jpg
11668029863_0af4c36d32.jpg
11668165914_02010fdd3f.jpg
I used denim for this part, as you want a hardy fabric with a thick weave; it will be living on the floor after all.
  1. Cut a piece of fabric, 20” x 20”.
  2. At each corner, make marks 4 ½” and 5” from the corner along the edges of the fabric.
  3. Draw lines from the 4 ½” marks to form a square, and likewise for the 5” marks.
  4. Draw a line diagonally in between the corners of the two squares – we’ll call this Line A. Although this is fairly hard to explain in words, it’s really easy to grasp if you look at the photo below.
  5. Cut out the 4 ½” square and then cut along Line A.
  6. Repeat for each corner.
  7. Fold up each side and sew the two 5” lines you marked for each corner together. Once each corner is done, you will have a box, 10” square with 5” tall sides.

Fur Stuffing Bag

11668181074_d96c540458.jpg
11667771265_da8e90889d.jpg
11668026333_3d82d4ec4b.jpg
11668601166_06692e60d2.jpg
11668173534_0b1f72aee4.jpg
11668069283_6b6284213c.jpg
11667824045_b6392688eb.jpg
Each time I cut a piece of fur, I have pieces left over that can’t be used for any project. I cut or shave the fur off these pieces and then throw them away. It is this loose fur that I use to stuff pillows or this foot warmer. To make sure that this fur doesn’t gradually seep through the fabric, I put it in a bag made out of shower curtain plastic.
Although it makes a wonderful stuffing similar to down, I realize that it’s not something that’s readily available. Consequently you may have to use synthetic stuffing, and so can skip this step.
  1. From a piece of shower curtain or similarly thin plastic, cut out the shape shown below in the photos (the photo that shows it already cut out also has measurements. It’s basically a 10” x 10” bag that’s 2” deep, allowing for a ½” overlap to sew. The thinner rectangle of the left is the top as well as a side.
  2. Sew all the sides together. Then sew the lid to two of the sides (one side is connected without having to sew it).
  3. Turn the bag inside out.
  4. Stuff the bag full. It will compress with time, as the air is pushed out, so make sure it’s fuller than you want it to end up.
  5. Sew the final side to the lid to close the bag.
  6. Set this bag inside the denim box.

Furry Base

11668189494_9ee2142872.jpg
11668619556_a9f856d282.jpg
11668086403_d088395ea0.jpg
11696659546_3ea69559b3.jpg
11696283714_b05ec5f98c.jpg
You’ll need a fur box/tray that is 10” x 10” and 2” tall; it is what your feet rest on. How you make it will depend on the size of the furs available to you.
  1. If you have it, use a piece that’s 11” x 11” for the base and then cut four strips of 11” x 2 ½”. You can then sew a strip to each strip (the above dimensions allows for a ½” overlap or hem), and sew the strips together at the corners.
  2. Alternatively, you can piece smaller furs together to form a whole that is 12” x 12” outside dimensions. You can then cut out the corners, fold up the sides and sew them together.
  3. Place this tray on top of the fur pouch inside the denim box.
  4. Fold the top ½” or so of denim over the fur and tuck it under itself (so that the frayed bit of fabric is hidden). Sew the two together.
[If you’re not using a stuffing bag, you’ll want to sew along three edges, then stuff it, then sew the fourth.]

Furry Lid

11695935485_bb39a24c66.jpg
11696663346_78be7808e2.jpg
11696160103_87b5b9efa8.jpg
11696165513_c43d594221.jpg
11696690146_1f54c61f85.jpg
11696708856_d315e71f8e.jpg
You want the lid to have fur on the inside (for warmth and comfort) and on the outside (for aesthetic reasons). If you’re not using fur, but something that feels the same on both sides, you’ll only need one piece.
  1. Cut two pieces of fur, each 11” x 11”. If you don’t have any large enough, sew smaller furs together.
  2. Cut an arch out of the bottom of both pieces. It should start 1” in from either side and be 3” tall (see photo below).
  3. Place one fur on top of the other, with the fur sides touching and leather facing out. Sew the two together along all the straight sides (not the arch).
  4. Turn it inside out.
[This design calls for a fur ring that goes vertically up from the lid to keep your ankles warm. However, the ankle part is fiddly and by far the hardest part. If you don’t want to do it, you can sew the arch part of the lid together once you’ve turned it inside out, and then sew it to the denim base.]

Ankle Warmer

11696382864_2969e77327.jpg
11695955215_af65fb196c.jpg
11696205523_358b9e5984.jpg
11696340904_433ab3258b.jpg
11696218173_39cb04820d.jpg
11695980205_e4e267358d.jpg
11696751816_bbbc4d68bf.jpg
11696372444_d3f3e70c55.jpg
Make sure you use only super supple fur for this part. If your fur is even a little stiff, it will make it pretty difficult.
  1. Cut one piece of fur that’s 13” x 7” and another that’s 10” x 7”.
  2. Sew one side of the 13” piece to the arch of the lid’s top fur (the strip's fur should be on the lid side, not on the open arch side). You should have a little of the strip sticking out beyond both ends of the arch, which you’ll use to sew to the 10” strip.
  3. Fold the 13” strip in half, back on itself leather to leather, and sew the other 13” length to the arch of the lid’s underside fur.
  4. Fold the 10” strip in half lengthways, with the leather on the outside. Sew the two loose 10” lengths together. Turn it inside out, so that the fur is on the outside.
  5. Sew one end to the 13” strip’s left side, and the other end to the 13” strip’s right side. Make sure the grain of the fur flows in the same direction for both pieces. The strip should now form a circle of fur that will encase your ankles

Finishing Off

11696391964_af5db282e9.jpg
11696028375_a0b85b4012.jpg
11696033715_ff0aeccfe9.jpg
  1. Take the lid and place it on top of the rest of the unit. Sew them together on four sides (the lid will comprise three sides, and the 10” strip of ankle warmer will be the fourth).
  2. Take off any socks and shoes or slippers that you’re wearing. Slip your bare feet inside the warmer, and relax.