Furkan`s Cheap MicroAlgae Filter

by furkanguzel161 in Workshop > 3D Printing

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Furkan`s Cheap MicroAlgae Filter

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"Furkan`s Cheap MicroAlgae Filter" is a cheap way to filter out microalgae and transfer it to clean water.

It filters the microalgae in a really slow way and gets slower as cotton gets clogged up so changing the cotton every few hours is a must.

After filtering, take out the cotton and wash it with 200ml of clean water and microalgae will be transferred to clean water.

The MicroAlgae I am filtering in the video is Chlorella Vulgaris

The video with the small motor and the single blue FCMAF is the prototype, I changed the design multiple times and used 2kg PETG to create the latest version.

If you liked this project you can donate with cryptocurrency to support me! Check out the donation step!

I know a lot of you like to donate with Paypal but Paypal is not operating in my country.

My Email Address: furkanguzel161@gmail.com


Created With Tinkercad: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2IFlZdux6DT-furkans-cheap-microalgae-filter


Used designs to save time(Attribution to bofl, funbart, TheTNR)

 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3893550 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:641854

 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2838485

All designs shared by me are licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license

Supplies

Before Purchasing/Printing The Tools And Parts Make Sure To Read All Steps!!!

Parts For One FCMAF

  • Stainless Steel M4 Phillips Screws 60mm X4(8$ 20pcs)
  • Stainless Steel M4 Nuts X4 (6$ 100pcs)
  • Stainless Steel M5 Hex socket Screw 30mm X1 (10$ 50pcs)
  • Stainless Steel M5 Nuts X2 (6$ 50pcs)
  • Diaphragm Pump 12v 80 Psi x1 21$
  • Pneumatic Air Tubing, 12mm(0.47") OD x 8mm(0.31") ID (2 Meter) 12$
  • 12mm x 12mm OD, Straight Pneumatic Connector x1 (10$ 10pcs)
  • 1KG PETG Filament(Colorless Natural Recommended) 23$ (200gr is approx 1 set of FCMAF)
  • 3D Printer(Obviously) X1
  • 12v power supply(Watt Depends on the pump you choose to use.) X1 9$
  • Liquid Silicone Gasket Maker X1 7$
  • Cyanoacrylate (CA) Super Glue x1 5$
  • 38mm OD Gasket(it's near impossible to find exact dimensions so buy something that will cover the area and cut it to fit) (6$ 2pcs)
  • %100 Cotton roll(i did not include it in the price )
  • Phillips screwdriver(i did not include it in the price)
  • Esd 15 tweezer (i did not include it in the price)
  • Hex key set(i did not include it in the price)
  • Pliers (i did not include it in the price)

Approx Cost Of All The Parts In USA(Amazon.com, Without The 3D Printer Cost, Without Shipping, Calculated Based On Required Number Of Parts To Build Single FCMAF): 64$

Some Parts Can be used for Multiple "FCMAF" like in the video, so multiplying 64$ with the amount of "FCMAF" you are planning to print will not give you the correct cost...


These Parts Are A Lot Cheaper In Turkey Total Amount I spend for one FCMAF is: 370 TL(20 Dollars)

To be fair I only looked at amazon for US prices, but in Turkey, I looked at the whole internet + local hardware store since I am familiar with it.

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First Download All of the files then Open Cura and load the "FCMAF Top Part.stl" and "FCMAF Top Support Stopper.stl" files then right click and center "FCMAF Top Part.stl"

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Set "FCMAF Top Support Stopper.stl" Mesh Type as Don`t support overlaps.

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Right click and center "FCMAF Top Support Stopper.stl"

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Before you click to slice enable supports, set infill to %100 and layer height to 0.06mm then slice and print it!

Repeat this progress for other parts!

Note: I had small leaks with 0.2mm layer height I had none with 0.06mm also I set infill flow to %105 but my printer is horrible so you might get better results with different settings.

also, PETG temperature depends on the manufacturer of the filament I had success with printing 10 degrees celsius lower than the max recommended temp.


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This is how it looks after the print use Esd 15 Tweezer to remove supports.

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This is how it should look after removing the supports.

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Put all the parts on the image on the desk.

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Screw the m4 nut to the m4 screw

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Use the screw as a gripping tool to insert m4 nuts while inserting, moving it left, right, up, and down while pushing it down will help.

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This is how it should look after you are finished.

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Insert M5 nut the same way we inserted m4 nuts.

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Insert the m5 screw then screw it in.

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Now we are going to put the m5 nut to the end of the screw and make sure it's even and flat as possible you might ask why we put the nut well without it the screw punches a hole in the pusher, there is been a lot of changes to the pusher design on the left is the final one.

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Put some super glue on the screw to lock it in place.

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Insert the hex key and make sure it reaches all the way down and locks on the screw now measure as you see in the picture get the measurement and add 1cm more, now use that measurement to cut the same length of Pneumatic Air Tubing

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Gather up all the tools/parts necessary

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Apply super glue and make sure it gets evenly spread. also tilting it like in the picture will ensure the glue does not reach the screw!

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Grab the hose as you see in the picture.

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Insert it in, twisting it while pushing will help a lot also it will probably stick to the part in 5 to 10 seconds so do it quickly, it will go in like 1 cm

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Applying extra glue will also ensure there are no leaks. repeat this for the bottom part(you don't need to repeat the measurement step.

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Cut the gasket to the appropriate size, you can do this by creating a paper template get a paper and press it down with your palm on the Bottom FCMAF that will create lines follow them to cut the template and make sure the paper fits on the Bottom FCMAF then use that paper as a template.

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Gather up all the parts/tools(note: you don't need 2 gaskets one in enough I made a mistake and put 2 gaskets on the picture)

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Cut the cotton the same length as the bottom part as you can see in the image.

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You are going to roll it up and push it to the bottom part how much you are going to roll up depends on the brand of the cotton it should fit tight but not too tight on the sides.

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Push it in much as you can

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Adding water will soften up the cotton so it will be much easier to push.

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Insert the pusher and make sure the grill faces the cotton also apply some pressure to squeeze much as possible.

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Insert screws to the top piece.

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Place the gasket like you see in the picture and make sure it's centered.

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Insert the top piece and the screws to the bottom piece while making sure the gasket is centered, then screw it in!

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This is how it should look after it's screwed in, now insert the hex key then start twisting it! as you twist it will get harder to twist so you can use Pliers to apply more force but be careful applying too much force will brake the parts so soon as it gets harder to twist STOP! also if microalgae passes the cotton you can apply more twisting it really depends on your strength so my recommendation is trying different amounts of twist to deterrent what is best for you.


Before you put everything together make sure the hose and FCMAF are full of water you can add water from the top and tap it hard to remove the bubble add more water and repeat this until there is no air in the system and connect everything! Then start the microalgae filtering progress.

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After you are finished take off the screws but be aware there will be some mess.

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Take out the cotton with the help of an ESD-15 tweezer

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Put the cotton in a small amount of water and wash it with your hand.