Free Food Pantry

Instructions are for building a Free Food Pantry. A Free Food Pantry is like a Free Little Library except that it is larger in size and for sharing non-perishable food instead of books. The idea is that you place the Free Food Pantry outdoors, and those who can place non-perishable food items in the pantry, and those who need or want to take some items from the pantry to eat later on. Doing so is great way to help encourage sharing in a community so that neighbors are looking out for each other and that the needs of a community's members are better taken care of. If you have any question or comments about the project, you can reach out to sevaskeptics@gmail.com

• 2 x 4, 36ft+
• 1 x 6, tongue & groove, 16ft+
• 1 x 4, 4ft+
• plywood, 1 4ft x 8ft sheet
• plexiglass, 2ft x 1ft
• Red paint, exterior with primer, 1gal+
• Paint brushes and tray or paint sprayer
• Stickers or supplies for lettering or decoration
• 2in screws
• 1 1/2in screws
• Corner braces kit (for the shelf)
• Flat corner braces kit (for the door frame)
• Mirror clips (for attaching the plexiglass to the door frame)
• Gate door hinges (for door)
• Gate door latch (for door)
• Roofing shingles
• Roofing nails
• Roofing sealant
• All purpose silicone sealant
• Saw horses
• Circular saw
• Measuring Tape
• Carpenter's pencil
• Miter saw (strongly recommended)
• Drill with driver bits
• Hammer
• Level
• Speed square
• Utility Knife

From the 2x4, cut four 47 1/2in pieces. These are the Leg pieces.

From the 2x4, cut two 24in pieces. These are the Feet pieces.

From the 2x4, cut five 22in pieces with the ends cut at 45 deg angles. The angle cuts should be in intersecting directions so as to form a trapazoid prisim measuring 22in on one side and ~18in on the other. When you're done, you should be able to combine four of these pieces along the 45 deg angle cuts to form a box. (Tip: because 2x4s are the same on each side, the angle cut for one piece can use also be used as the angle cut for the next piece.) These are the four Box Frame Bottom pieces and the Box Top Rear piece and their shorter sides are their Inner Sides.

From the 2x4, cut two 20 1/2in pieces each with one end cut at a 45 deg angle, the other cut straight with a typical 90 deg angle. When you're done, you should have two pieces that measure 20 1/2in one one side and ~19in on the other. These are the Box Frame Top pieces.

From the 2x4, cut four 12 3/4in pieces with a 30 deg cut from one edge to the opposite edge and a 60 deg cut from that end to the same opposite edge. When you're done, each piece should be a 2x4 cut in the shape of a trapazoid measuring 12 3/4in on one edge and ~4 15/32in on the other edge and you should be able to press two of the pieces together to form an arch. (Tip: because the Miter Saw we used for the angle cuts did not support 60 degree cuts, we lined the piece up against the miter saw along the width of the piece instead of along the length of piece, used two spare pieces of wood to support it, and set the miter saw to a 30 deg angle to make the equivalent cut. See the pictures for reference.) (Tip: you may find it helpful to use the first piece you cut out to trace the shape in the 2x4 for the next piece. If you plan on doing this project again, you can cut a fifth piece and use it as a template for next time as well.) These are the Roof Frame pieces.

From the 1x6, cut three 20 1/2in pieces with the ends cut at 45 deg angles (similar to how you did with the Box Frame pieces). The angle cuts should be cutting into the inside side of the 1x6 so that the pieces measure 20 1/2in on the outside side and ~19in on the inside side. (Tip: these 1x6s are not the same on each side, so will have to make new angle cuts for each piece.) These are the Rear Panel pieces.

From the 1x6, cut three 19 3/4in pieces each with one end cut at a 45 deg angle, the other cut straight with a typical 90 deg angle (similar to how you did with the Box Frame pieces). The angle cuts should be cutting into the inside side of the 1x6 on left end of the 1x6 piece so that the pieces measure 19 3/4in on the outside side and ~19 on the inside side. These are the Side Right Panel pieces.

From the 1x6, cut three 19 3/4in pieces each with one end cut at a 45 deg angle, the other cut straight with a typical 90 deg angle (similar to how you did with the Box Frame pieces). The angle cuts should be cutting into the inside side of the 1x6 on right end of the 1x6 piece so that the pieces measure 19 3/4in on the outside side and ~19 on the inside side. These are the Side Left Panel pieces.

When you're done, you should be able to take a Rear Panel piece, a Side Right Panel piece, and a Side Left Panel pieces and combine them to for a U shape with the outside sides of the pieces on the outside of the U shape.

From the 1x4, cut two 18 3/4in pieces. These are the Door Facade pieces.

From the 1x4, cut two 18 1/2in pieces with a 45 deg cut from one edge to the opposite edge and a 45 deg cut from that end to the same opposite edge. When you're done, these pieces should be in a trapezoid shape that is 18 1/2in on one edge and ~11 1/2in on the other end. (Tip: the angle cut for one piece can use also be used as the angle cut for the next piece.) These are the Door Side pieces.

From the 1x4, cut two 14 3/4in pieces with a 45 deg cut from one edge to the opposite edge and a 45 deg cut from that end to the same opposite edge. When you're done, these pieces should be in a trapezoid shape that is 14 3/4in on one edge and ~7 3/4in on the other end. These are the Door Top/Bottom pieces.

When you're done, you should be able to lay the Door Side pieces and Door Top/Bottom pieces flat and combine them to form a box shape.

From the plywood, cut two 24in x 14in pieces each with one end cut at a 60 deg angle, the other cut straight with a typical 90 deg angle. When you're done, you should be able to place the two pieces together along the 60 deg angle cuts to make a roof shape with a 30 deg incline. These are the Rooftop pieces.

On the plywood, mark two marks along the edge measuring 21 31/32in. Then make a mark on that edge at the midpoint between the two marks, 10 63/64in away from each mark. From the midpoint mark draw a line perpendicular from the edge 6 11/32in from the edge. Draw two straight lines from this 6 11/32in point back to the original two marks, making the shape of an isosceles triangle measuring 21 31/32in wide and 6 11/32in tall. Cut out this triangle from the plywood. Then repeat this process so that you have two triangular plywood pieces (Tip: once you cut out the first piece you can use trace the first piece to get the shape for the second). These are the Roof Facade pieces.

From the plywood, cut one 19 1/2in x 19 1/2in piece. This is the Floor piece.
From the plywood, cut one 19in x 19in piece. This is the Shelf piece.

On the Floor piece, in one corner of the piece, make a mark that is 3 3/4in from one edge and 1 3/4in from the other edge. Draw lines from the mark perpendicular to the edges of the corner, making rectangle that 3 3/4in by 1 3/4in. Cut along the lines, cutting the rectangle out from the corner. (Tip: it may help reduce splintering to drill a hole in the corner of the rectangle, so your saw cut will stop at the drill hole you made.) On an adjacent corner of the piece, repeat the process, marking out a corner that is a mirrored version of the cut out version (that is, they are the same length from the same edge of the piece). (Tip: To aid you in measuring the rectangle, you may use the cut out rectangle for reference.) Cut this second corner out. Then repeat this process with the remaining two corners, making a plus shape in the plywood which is has two 12in edges and two 16in edges.

On the Shelf piece, repeat this process using a 3 1/2in x 1 1/2in rectangle instead.

On each Box Bottom Frame piece, cut a through groove dado lengthwide down the piece, 5/8in wide (or 1/8in wider than the width of your plywood), 1/4in deep, 2in from the edge, on the inner side of the piece. When the grooves are done, you can test them by arranging the Box Bottom Frame pieces to make a square with the Floor piece in the middle and enough room for a leg piece in each corner.

From the plexiglass, cut a 14in x 10in rectangle. It may help to clamp the plexiglass to a spare piece of plywood to help make the cut. This is your Window Pane piece.

For each wood piece, paint or spray each side with outdoor primer + paint. Let dry. As needed, add a second or third coat. Some pieces or sides of pieces don't need to be painted they won't be externally visible such as the Floor piece, the Shelf piece, the Roof Frame pieces, the insides of the Roof Facade pieces, and the insides of the Side Panel pieces. Edges where two pieces meet are better left unpainted such as the diagonals where the Box Frame pieces meet, the diagonals where the Side Panel pieces meet, the diagonals where the Door Frame pieces meeting, and the edges of the Roof Facade pieces.

Place the back Top Box Frame piece and a side Top Box Frame square with a Leg piece and flush with the floor (as pictured). Screw the pieces together using 2in screws, staggering where the screws are placed so they don't collide (as pictured). Repeat with the other side Top Box Frame piece and another Leg piece so as form a U shape with two parallel legs this will be the top of your food pantry (building it upside down).

Place a Rear Panel piece and and Left Panel piece together square at the right attached Leg piece (to you're right if you are looking a the from the open end), aligned with Top Box Frame pieces, with the tongue edges of the tongue & groove Panel pieces facing to the ground. Screw together with 1 1/2in screws, staggering the screw placement so they don't collide. Repeat this process with a Right Panel piece and left attached Leg piece. This should form a U shape of Panel pieces with all the tongue edges facing to the ground.

Add another Rear Panel piece with the tongue edge firmly in the groove of the attached Rear Panel piece, then add another Left Panel piece and Right Panel piece on top of their respective attached Panel pieces the same way. Screw the newly added Panel pieced with 1 1/2in screws staggering the screw placement so they don't collide. Repeat this process with the remaining three Panel pieces so that you have a U shape of stacked together Panel pieces as pictured.

Square with the Top Box Frame, flush with the floor and the edges of the Top Box frame and the Panels, and parallel with the attached Leg pieces, screw the remaining Leg pieces to the Top Box frame with 2in screws, staggering their placement so they don't collide. Then screw the newly attached Leg pieces to the Panels using 1 1/2in screws. Flip the partially constructed pantry over so that it stands right-side up.

Place and hold the Floor piece between the Legs and below the Panels of the pantry. The Floor piece should be able to be flush with the bottom of the Panels, if it's too tight, trim away at the corner cuts of the Floor piece until it fits. Place a Bottom Box Frame piece flush behind the Legs, flush below the Panels, and with the Floor piece inside of the groove of the Rear Bottom Box Frame piece so that it partially holds the Floor piece. Screw the Bottom Box Frame piece to the Legs with 2in screws. staggering their placement so they don't collide. Place another Bottom Box Frame piece flush with the attached Bottom Box frame piece, flush with the Legs, flush below the Panels, and with the Floor piece inside of the groove of the Side Bottom Box Frame piece so that it partially holds the Floor piece. Screw the Side Bottom Box Frame piece to the Legs with 2in screws. staggering their placement so they don't collide. Repeat with the another Bottom Box Frame on the other side. Repeat with the last Bottom Box frame on the front. The result should be a box shape which is flush with the Panels and which holds the Floor piece flat and between the Legs of the pantry.

Place and hold the shelf piece between the Legs of the pantry and above the floor. It should be able to be straight roughly one half of the way in the box; if it it's too tight, trim away at the corner cuts as needed. Using a leveler, a pencil, a measuring tape, and the corner braces, place and hold the shelf piece level between the Legs of the pantry roughly half of the way in the box and then mark where the screws will need to go to attach the shelf piece. Additionally ensure that the edge of the shelf is flush with the edge of the Legs, trim if it goes out too far. Bring away the shelf piece and screw the corner braces to the inside of the Legs where marked, then place or attach the shelf piece on top. The result should be that the shelf is held by the corner braces level, roughly halfway in the middle of the box, and flush with the edges of the Legs.

Place the Door Frame pieces together at the diagonals, flush and square with each other and flush with the ground. Using the flat corner braces, screw the Door Frame pieces together. Make sure the flat corner braces are far enough towards the edges of the Door Frame that the Window Pane piece will be able to lay flat.

Place the pantry on its side. Place a Foot piece flat on the bottom edge of one side's Legs so that the Legs are in the middle of the Foot piece. Screw together using 2in screws. Repeat the process with the other Foot piece, then place the pantry right side up. The result should be that there are two Feet attached to the bottom of the pantry like a pair of skis.

Place the Door Facade pieces and the Door Frame flush against the front of the pantry, flush with the outer sides of the Legs, and so that there is just enough space to move between the Door Facade pieces and the Door Frame. If needed, trim the side of the Facade pieces so that it will fit. Using 1 1/2in screws, attached the Door Facade to the front Legs of the pantry, staggering the location of the screws so it does not collide with any other screws.

Place two Roof Frame pieces on top of the Top Box Frame, flush and square with the front edge of the Top Box Frame (not the Door Facade), and so that the edges of the two Roof Frame pieces come together (as pictured). As pictured, you may need to add a shim between the two Root Frame pieces so they touch. Using 2in or 1 1/2in screws, screw the Roof Frame pieces to the Top Box Frame, staggering the location of the screws so they don't collide, and taking care to make sure the screws do not protrude from the edge of the Legs.

Place the other two Roof Frame pieces on top of the Top Box Frame, square with the back edge of the Top Box Frame, not flush with the edge of the Top Box Frame but with another room for the Roof Facade piece, and so that the edges of the two Roof Frame pieces come together. Using 2in or 1 1/2in screws, screw the Roof Frame pieces to the Top Box Frame, staggering the location of the screws so they don't collide, and taking care to make sure the screws do not protrude from the edge of the Legs.

Place two Rooftop pieces ontop of the Roof Frame, with the two angled edges touching each other, centered over the Roof Frame, flat against the Roof Frame. Using 2in or 1 1/2in screws, screw the Rooftop pieces to the Roof Frame.

Place the Window Pane piece on top of the Door Frame, on the side of the flat corner braces, so that it completely covers the rectangular hole created by the Door Frame. Using a pencil, mark where the screws for the mirror clips will need to go. Remove the Window Pane piece and screw in the mirror clips where it was marked. Use the mirror clips so the Window Pane piece is attached. The result should be a rectangular Door Frame with a Plexiglas Window Pane.

Place and hold the Door between the Door Facades of the pantry, leaving enough space above and below the Door, and enough space on the sides to swing properly. Place the hinges along the left side of were the Door Facade meets the Door, straddling the Door Facade and Door, and with a pencil mark where the screws will need to be placed. Remove the Door Frame and screw the hinges to where it was marked with a pencil. Place the Door back between the Door Facades, line up the holes with the pencil marks on the Door Facade, then screw the hinges to the Door Facade. The Door should now be attached to the Door Facade at the hinges, and it should be able to easily swing open or late flat with the Door Facade against the Shelf with minimal gaps on each side.

With the Door closed, place the latch against the Door and the right Door Facade, so that the two pieces straddle the Door and Door Facade, then mark with a pencil where the screws will need to be placed. Screw the latch pieces in using where it was marked with pencil. The Door should be able to easily lock and unlock at the latch when it is closed.

Place a Roof Facade piece below the Roof and against the Roof Frame to close the gap in front of the pantry as much as possible. You may need to trim the Roof Facade or add shims to get a good fit. When the Roof Facade is properly placed, use 1 1/2in screws to attach the Roof Facade to the Roof Frame, taking care to avoid the screws from when the Roof was attached to the Roof Frame. Repeat this process with the other Roof Facade in the back.

Place down a Roof Shingle in the bottom corner of one of the sides of the Roof. Attach the Roof Shingle to Roof using Roofing Nails. Place and attached other Roof Shingles on the bottom in the same manner, against the attached Roof Shingle until you reach the other side of the roof, cutting excess single hanging over the Roof as needed. Place a Roof Single halfway on top of the shingles on the bottom row, straddling the shingles, creating a roof shingle or brick-wall-like pattern. Using a tube of Roofing Sealant and a Caulking Gun apply Roofing Sealant in a straight unbroken line along the seam of where the Roof Shingle will overlap, then attach the Roof Shingle to the Roof using Roofing Nails. Continue this way until the Roof is complete covered with Roof Shingles in this staggered pattern and on both sides of the Roof. For the point at the top of the roof, you can take a Roofing Shingle and fold is across, then attached Roof Shingles on top as need to remain aesthetically pleasing.

Apply more red paint as needed to cover screws, shims, trimmed edges of wood, anything that might need another coat of paint. Let dry as needed.

Using a tube of All-Purpose Silicone Sealant, apply sealant at any crack so as reduce the flow of air or moisture between the inside and the outside of the pantry.

Apply stickers, decorations, or text to the exterior of the food pantry. It should be clear to someone walking by what the food pantry is to be used for and if you'd like, who created it.

To put your Free Food Pantry to good use, you'll need to find a good location for it. It should be in an area that has a lot of people who could make good use of it and in community that wants it there. You will need private property that has an easily accessible space in that area and see if the person who owns that property would be willing to agree to have it on their property there. Community centers or small businesses might make for a good fit. To transport the Free Food Pantry, you will likely need a truck. Once it's placed, fill it up with non-perishable foods, and spread the word about it so others will contribute to it and use it. Be sure to check up on it regularly after you place it to make sure it stays full and to make sure it has not become vandalized or damaged. Congratulations! You just helped make the world a little brighter by facilitating sharing in your community.