Ford Ikon Power Window Cable Replacement
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Ford Ikon Power Window Cable Replacement
I bought a used Ford Ikon Flair for a sweet price, but one of the power windows didn't work. After a bit of electrical snafu fixing, I got the motor to run, but no cookie- the cable on the regulator was broken.
A replacement cable was, of course, not available. A replacement from Ford would have me replace the entire regulator- motor et al, and set me back by roughly $120. A non-OEM part of questionable quality was $15, which I was not happy about. So I figured out my own way to fix a new cable, which only took me around an hour to fix, and cost me a dollar. This will only work for a broken cable, NOT a broken motor. The basic operation is simple, and can be found on Wikipedia.
Supplies you'll need:
Broken power window regulator (duh.).
Two bicycle brake cables. (The inner cable was the same grade- cost me around a dollar for two)
A cable clip + Rivet (You can come up with alternatives such as brazing)
Grease
Duct tape
Tools:
Pliers
A Phillips head screwdriver
A standard head screwdriver
Wire cutters
Hammer
Metal File
(Optional) A D-clamp\Friend to help you out
Lots of patience would also help.
A replacement cable was, of course, not available. A replacement from Ford would have me replace the entire regulator- motor et al, and set me back by roughly $120. A non-OEM part of questionable quality was $15, which I was not happy about. So I figured out my own way to fix a new cable, which only took me around an hour to fix, and cost me a dollar. This will only work for a broken cable, NOT a broken motor. The basic operation is simple, and can be found on Wikipedia.
Supplies you'll need:
Broken power window regulator (duh.).
Two bicycle brake cables. (The inner cable was the same grade- cost me around a dollar for two)
A cable clip + Rivet (You can come up with alternatives such as brazing)
Grease
Duct tape
Tools:
Pliers
A Phillips head screwdriver
A standard head screwdriver
Wire cutters
Hammer
Metal File
(Optional) A D-clamp\Friend to help you out
Lots of patience would also help.
Removing the Door Trim
First, take out the fuse for the power window. I simply removed the key from the ignition lock as this disables the power windows, but this is arguably risky.
Tape the window to the door frame using duct tape. I did not include the pictures 'cause I used clear tape that didn't show up in the pictures. Taping it ensures the glass doesn't fall into the door once the regulator is removed.
Unscrew the arm-rest and the door lock trim. Two screws are behind a panel on the arm-rest that can simply be pulled off.
I chose to remove the switch since I had to replace it as well. You can simply disconnect it once you remove the arm-rest.
Once this is done, the door trim can simply be lifted out after pulling out the snap tabs.
Tape the window to the door frame using duct tape. I did not include the pictures 'cause I used clear tape that didn't show up in the pictures. Taping it ensures the glass doesn't fall into the door once the regulator is removed.
Unscrew the arm-rest and the door lock trim. Two screws are behind a panel on the arm-rest that can simply be pulled off.
I chose to remove the switch since I had to replace it as well. You can simply disconnect it once you remove the arm-rest.
Once this is done, the door trim can simply be lifted out after pulling out the snap tabs.
Removing the Regulator
Disconnect the motor. It is simply another press-tab-and pull type connector.
The bolts and the order in which they are to be removed are marked in the image.
The first two separate the regulator from the glass. The second two separate the regulator from the door frame. The last three will separate the motor and allow you to remove the regulator.
The regulator once removed should look like the one in the second picture. Remove the six marked screws.
The bolts and the order in which they are to be removed are marked in the image.
The first two separate the regulator from the glass. The second two separate the regulator from the door frame. The last three will separate the motor and allow you to remove the regulator.
The regulator once removed should look like the one in the second picture. Remove the six marked screws.
Cable Replacement 1
Remove the wheel by gently prying under it with a screwdriver.
The replacement cables have a ball end- hammer it and file it into shape so that it fits into the groove on the wheel (picture 3).
The replacement cables have a ball end- hammer it and file it into shape so that it fits into the groove on the wheel (picture 3).
Cable Replacement 2
The outer cable length is not VERY important. It should go from the motor to the top\bottom of the regulator channel when fixed to the door, allowing a little leeway.
First we attach the inner cable to the wheel, and fix the wheel on the motor. Loop it around the wheel twice (Else the cable will be too short.) The order is simple- cable on wheel, through the tensioner spring(and cover), outer cable, pulley and channel runner.
I used a clamp to keep the channel runner at one place when I measured the inner cable length. You need to mark the length of the inner cable when the tensioner springs are free, and when they're compressed. Mark both points. Do it for both the cables (upper and lower).
First we attach the inner cable to the wheel, and fix the wheel on the motor. Loop it around the wheel twice (Else the cable will be too short.) The order is simple- cable on wheel, through the tensioner spring(and cover), outer cable, pulley and channel runner.
I used a clamp to keep the channel runner at one place when I measured the inner cable length. You need to mark the length of the inner cable when the tensioner springs are free, and when they're compressed. Mark both points. Do it for both the cables (upper and lower).
Cable Replacement 3
Now you can detach the cables from the wheel to let you connect the free ends together. The point to attach them together is between the two marked points on each cable (free and tensioned).
Bend the cables and use the clip. Then hammer in the rivet and snip off the excess. The clip should fit into the runner.
Now all you have to do is attach the cable ends to the wheel again, loop it twice, and attach the cover. If you have connected the cables at the right place, there should be just enough tension to fix everything together perfectly. DONE!
Bend the cables and use the clip. Then hammer in the rivet and snip off the excess. The clip should fit into the runner.
Now all you have to do is attach the cable ends to the wheel again, loop it twice, and attach the cover. If you have connected the cables at the right place, there should be just enough tension to fix everything together perfectly. DONE!
Putting It All Together
The regulator should look like the one in the picture. I used some grease on the regulator channel.
You can test it out by connecting the power connector to the motor, and the switch. If everything is okay, proceed with final assembly.
All you have to do is reverse steps two and one to fix it in the door, and you should be done!
You can test it out by connecting the power connector to the motor, and the switch. If everything is okay, proceed with final assembly.
All you have to do is reverse steps two and one to fix it in the door, and you should be done!