Folding Table
I uploaded this video on YouTube on how to make this Cedar folding table. Here's some more detailed instructions if you would like to build it. It's a pretty easy project, and can be done in a weekend. I chose Cedar for this project, it's a great outdoor wood that holds up well.
Choosing Lumber, and Hardware
I had to resaw the boards I used in the video, but if you use 1/2" lumber it will speed up the build a lot.
You will need,
7' 3" x 3 1/2" x 1/2 lumber for the top, and bottom supports.
11' 10" x 1 5/8" x 1/2" lumber for the legs, and table pot supports.
12" of 3/8" dowel,
7 1/4" of 1" dowel
24 #6 1" screws
Cut List
The four top pieces are,
15 1/4" x 3 1/2" x 1/2"
Two bottom supports are,
13" x 3 1/3" x 1/2"
Four legs are,
20 1/2" x 1 5/8" x 1/2"
Supports under the top are,
14" x 1 5/8" x 1/2"
Eight pieces of 3/8" dowel
4 at 1 1/8"
2 at 3/4"
2 at 2"
One piece of 1" dowel
7 1/4"
Sanding
Sand all the pieces to the same thickness.
A surface sander makes this very easy, but not necessary
Drilling the Holes
Using a drill press will make this much easier, and more accurate.
All the 1 5/8" x 1/2" support pieces need a 3/8" drilled 7/8" from one end. The 20 1/2" pieces also need a 7/8" hole drilled 9 1/2" form the opposite end. Two of the 14" x 1 /58" supports also need a hole drilled on the edge, this is the 1/2" side. find center-7" and drill a 5/8" these will be the stops for the top of the table.
Rounding the Corners
I used a bottle cap to mark the corners, this can be done with a compass as well. Mark all the corners on the 1 /58" pieces, and the 13" x 3 1/2". Only two of the 15 1/4" x 3 1/2" pieces have the corners rounded, on one edge. I used a spindle sander, this works well for rounding the corners.
Installing the Dowels
Glue in the 3/4" dowels into the 14" piece you drilled a 5/8 hole on the edge. The 2" dowels, are glued into the 20 1/2" pieces. Glue the 1 1/8" into 14" supports. (Not the ones with the 3/4" dowels) Let the glue dry before assembly. The 20 1/2" legs go on the outside of the 14" supports with the 3/4" stop dowels. The 14" supports go on the outside of the other 20 1/12" leg. The last two 1 1/8" dowels, are glued in to the 20 1/2" piece for the cross brace, glue them on the outside leg.
7 1/4" X 1" Dowel
Find center on the dowel, I used a center finder to do this. Drill a 5/8" hole in each end, about 1" deep. Install the dowel/handle into the 2" 5/8" dowels, don't glue them in.
Finish
Put your finish on the legs before assembling the top.
Install the Top, and Lower Supports
I used #6 1" screws
Square the two top pieces up. I used a 1/8" spacer between the dowels, and two pieces. Use a tape measure to measure the overhang on each side. Pre drill for the screws, I used a square to lineup with the supports. Screw the 15 1/4" pieces to the inside support with the dowel stops. The lower support is screwed to the inside leg 1 1/5" down from the top piece.
Flip the table over, and repeat this process. The only deference is you screw the pieces to the outside supports, and outside legs.
Apply a Finish to the Top
Slow motion table opening,and closing
Apply a finish to all the remaining pieces, and let dry.