Folding (Murphy) Wall Desk

Having my kids home schooling due to COVID initiated this project. I wanted something off of the floor to help keep my son's room looking "cleaner" when not in use. The murphy desk allows you to close up and hide all the clutter that ends up accumulating with a desk.

Project Cost

~ $115

This is material cost only, not including the thing I had on hand. Details in the materials section as an baseline - you can use cheaper wood.

Dimensions

On wall size is 4' W x 20.75" T x 8" D

* I chose to use 1x8" boards, but you could use 1x6" or 1x10" to change the depth

Materials

I wanted a hardwood for the desktop surface, so opted to go with Aspen for all of the visible wood on the desk. I used scrap pine for the french cleat and back support.

• Wood ($75)
  • 1 - 1"x8"x8' $20 (Top and Bottom frame panels)
  • 1 - 1"x8"x6' $15 (Side frame panels & both shelves)
  • 1 - 1"x6"x4' $5 (Shelf supports)
  • 1 - 1"x20"x4' $25 (Desktop surface)
  • 1 - 1/4"x4'x4' $10 Birch plywood (for back panel)
  • 1 - 1'x6'x4' Pine scrap (French cleat)
  • 1 - 1'x6'x4' Pine scrap (Back support)
• Hardware ($34)
  • 1 - 72" Piano Hinge $17 (used 40", so try to find a 48")
  • 4 - 8x3-1/8" Cabinet Screws (for mounting french cleat to wall)
  • 8 - 8x2-1/2" Cabinet Screws (for frame assembly)
  • 14 - pocket hold screws (for french cleat & support)
  • 2 - Lid Supports $13
  • 2 - 20lb Magnetic Catches $4
• Miscellaneous ($7)
  • Stain (Early American Varathane)
  • Polyurethane $7
  • Wood glue
  • Wood putty
  • Wood Dowels (not necessary)
• Tools
  • Circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Palm router
  • Kreg pocket hole jig
  • Orbital sander
  • Nail Gun
  • Clamps
  • Rubber Mallet

1. Frame Top & Bottom Panels
   2 - 1x8x46.5" (desktop is 48", so take 3/4" off to account for side panels)
   
2. Frame Sides Panels
   2 - 1x8x20-3/4" (desktop is 20", so add 3/4" for bottom panel since it will sit flush with top)
   
3. Shelf Supports
   2 - 1x5-1/2"x19.25" (shelf depth accounts for back panel & hinge. Using 1x6" board is perfect fit)
   
4. Shelves
   2 - 1x5-1/2"x14.5" (width is variable on these based on preference)
   
5. French Cleat
   1 - 1x6x46.5" (rip this in half at a 45 degree angle to make top/bottom of cleat)
   
6. Back Support
   1 - 1x3x46.5" (this just adds more support and surface area for wall contact)
   
7. Back Panel
   1 - 1/4"x47"x20-1/4" (this is sized for 1/4" inset on each inner wall of the cabinet frame)
   
8. Desktop
   1 - 1x48x20" - I pre-purchased this size, so no cuts were needed

I wanted to use a French Cleat to simplify hanging the desk and initially thought I would just leave it exposed to maximize space inside the cabinet. But I changed my mind at the last minute and decided to conceal it behind the 1/4' plywood panel for a nicer look.

Since I am using a 1" board for the cleat, I measured .3/4" from the back edge of all the frame pieces and used a 1/4" straight router bit for the inset groove. I used a straight edge as my guide for making this long cut.

Because the ends of my top/bottom frame panels are concealed by the side panels, these could be cut all the way through. For the side panels, I stopped the groove just short of the ends so they were not exposed.

As I mentioned in the previous step, I opted for the side panels to enclose the top/bottom frame - I did this because the side is the first thing you see when you walk in the room (you could reverse this in your cuts depending on preference).

Insert the back panel into the grooves, use wood glue on all joints, ensure all corners are square and secure with two 2-1/2" cabinet screws on each joint.

* Note that I did use wood dowels for fun, but this is overkill with the cabinet screws.

I attached the top of the French Cleat and the Back Support using pocket holes.The clamped image is just showing what it will look like when joined with the other half that will attach to the wall.

Since I had never used a piano hinge before, I wanted to make sure I mounted it right. So prepped the mount at this stage by hammering punch holes for all the screws using a rubber mallet and straight punch.

I started by cutting hinge to size - the piano hinge I found was 72" long and I cut this down to 40" using a hacksaw, which left 3" on each side (I marked this with the blue tape).

Note: To position the hinge correctly, wrap it around the edge in a 90 degree position with the hinge barrel on the corner edge of the wood. I repeated this process on both the wall frame and the desktop surface piece.

This shelving configuration is totally up to you. But I wanted a tall middle slot for laptop, small shelves for knick knacks and the two side compartments that would fit 11" folders standing up.

I used a 1/4" round over bit and routered the front of these pieces to give a softer look when the desk is open.

I pre-routed all of the edges except for the 2 corners on each shelf that join (you can see this in the close-up image). I finished routering these corners once fully assembled.

For all the joints, I used wood glue and a finishing nail gun to secure. I filled the tiny nail holes with wood putty and re-sanded everything.

I stained and finished the frame and desktop separately before attaching the hinges.

It took 3 coats of polyurethane before I was satisfied with the finish.

Lesson Learned: I did a poor job of removing the excess glue quickly and didn't get it all off sanding, so you can see those blotches in the corners. Luckily they aren't very visible after mounting on the wall.

Piano Hinge:
Since I had pre-punched for the screw holes, it simplified this task. I just set the cabinet upright, the desktop next to it and installed all of the screws.

Lid Hinges:
I just put a picture of the nicely translated instructions from metric to Imperial on this one. They were tedious to install and had to convert back to MM in order to make sense of how to measure 6.3".

Lesson Learned:
Don't buy these lid hinges. I was being cheap, found these on Amazon and the quality is terrible. I had to trim the plastic clamps just to get them to fit and after that they still don't rotate like they are suppose to, so the clamp part doesn't stay over the hinge - over time they would slip off.

Aside from the poor quality, I'm not sure these were the right thing to use in the first place. This desktop is pretty large and "offers" itself to be leaned on... although my son is conscious of that, it is bound to happen and these won't support a heavy load. I might supplement these with chains for extra security.

I decided to use magnetic catches to hold the desktop to the cabinet when folded up. I bought 20lb strength magnets for this purpose and they are more than strong enough to never let it drop.

I first mounted the magnet side in the upper corners of the cabinet. I left the catch on them so I could set them inside the cabinet to a depth that would made it flush to the front.

Next I mounted the catch to the desk surface:
1. Leave the catch attached to the magnet for this step. In order to align this exactly, I placed a piece of painter's tape with the sticky side facing up over the catch & poked 2 holes in the tape where it aligned with the catch screw holes.
2. Carefully close the desktop ensure not to move the tape. Once the desktop is closed, the take will stick to it in the exact position for the screw holes. Drill these and attach the catch with screws.

The desk is now fully assembled!

The French Cleat makes this step very easy and allows it to be done without help.

1. I first attached a long piece of painters tape (use a level) to the wall at the desired height and marked all the studs on the tape. I drilled the first hole on the tape into the stud.
2. I then moved the French Cleat piece to the position I wanted that would still hit all the studs just below the tape line. I made a pencil mark on the French Cleat that aligned with the first stud on the tape.
3. I then removed the tape from the wall and placed it onto the French Cleat making sure that the first stud mark on the tape was directly on top of the pencil mark I made in step 2.
4. I then drilled holes for each stud mark in the French Cleat.
5. I then used a forstner bit to provide a counter sink for the cabinet screw heads. These need to be inset on the French Cleat to allow the cabinet to rest flush.
6. Now attach the French Cleat with a cabinet screw into the first stud that was drilled into in step 1 (do not tighten all the way). Using the level again, make sure the Cleat is level and drill the remaining holes into the stud (though your pre-drilled holes in the Cleat). Attach the remaining screws into the studs and tighten all of them.

Now just hang the cabinet on the cleat and you're done!

* I had initially thought I would put another screw through the lower back support into a stud for stability, but it wasn't necessary.