Folding Legs Picnic Table

I wanted a large picnic table capable of seating at least 6-8 people but wanted to be able to store it easily in my garage for the winter. I love having folding tables but hated the plastic tops. After watching a Bourbon Moth video on YT and seeing his folding leg design, it all came together for me and I decided to build my own folding leg picnic table.

• 8 8' 2X6's
• 2 8' 4x4's
• 4 8' 2x4s
• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig (or another way to drill pocket holes)
• Kreg Outdoor screws
• 4 9" 5/8 Carriage Bolts (other sizes can be used but I wouldn't go any smaller than 1/2")
• 16 Matching Washers
• 4 Matching Nylon Locknuts
• Miter Saw
• Band Saw
• Table Saw
• Sand Paper (a powered sander is really helpful)
• Drill
• Long Drill Bit (the same size as your carriage bolts)
• Tape Measure
• Finish
• Paint Brush
• Clamps (optional but really helpful)

We are going to kick things off by cutting all of our lumber to the right lengths using our miter saw.

Start with the frame of the table, which is made using our 2x6's, by cutting the two end sections to 39.25 inches (I know the 1/4" seems silly but it's needed to make the spacing work out later), and the two side lengths to 84". Both of these sections need 45° miters to make the frame. Use some scrap ahead of time to make sure your saw can really create a 45° miter or you will run into issues later.

Using the remaining 2x6s, cut the 5 internal boards for the top to 73". These are just normal square cuts so no worries about setting up the miter.

For the legs we will cut the 4x4s to 29.25" putting a 15° miter on one end of each one, don't worry about the other end, we will be rounding that one off later.

The skirting and other supports will be cut from the 2x4s. We need 2 at 28.25" and 2 at 21.25, all of which are square cuts. The sides of the skirt are 82" long and need a 40° miter on each end. There are 4 support blocks that are 5" long with a 15° miter on one side. Finally, there is a center support that is cut to 37.25" with another 40° miter.

You didn't think we were going to get away from the saws with just those cuts did you, nope now the tricky bits.

The two ends of the skirt need to be cut on a table saw to create a 15° angle along their length to help support the legs when they are extended.

Using the bandsaw, round off the non-mitered ends of your 4x4s so they can rotate freely when assembled. It will likely help to rough them on the bandsaw and then refine the shape with sanding.

The skirt and the center support have half-lap joints made on the table saw to keep them together. If you don't want to bother with this, simply cut the center support to 28.25". Otherwise cut a half lap in the side skirts in the center of the board along the side that is longest after the miters (the side that will be up against the bottom of the table.

The center support will need two half laps cut in them on the short side starting right at the end of the miter.

I suggest at this point to sand and apply finish to all of your parts. After they are assembled, it will be very hard to reach some of the areas on this table with finish and you don't want anything left exposed to the elements.

On the two end boards of the top frame, add pocket holes on the bottom side along the mitered ends.

Layout the ends and the sides of the frame. Using pocket screws, screw the frame together.

Place the 5 center boards inside the frame, using spacers (I like handi-shims) add a 1/8 space between all the boards and the frame so water can easily flow through.

Assemble the center support and the two side skirts with the half-laps. Place this assembly over the tabletop and center it.

Add pocket holes on the inside of the skirt and along the center support so there are at least two screws going into each board along the tabletop. Put screws in all your pocket holes which should lock everything together.

Finally, add the two end skirt sections with the mitered lengths against the tabletop so they angle out towards the ends. Add pocket holes both horizontally and vertically here so it can be screwed into the boards and the side skirt. Add all your screws and the top is done.

Place a leg in a corner and make sure that the miter will be parallel with the ground when splayed out matching the skirt. I like to add a 1/8 spacer under the leg to make sure it won't rub after assembly. Now add a support block and clamp the sandwich of the side skirt, leg, and support together.

Using our drill and long drill bit, drill a hole through this sandwich making sure the hole is centered on the leg. Remove the clamp then place the bolt through the skirt, add a washer, then the leg, then a washer, then the support block, and finally the nut.

We can then use pocket screws to attach the support block to the tabletop and the end skirt supporting everything.

Repeat these steps for all 4 legs.

Extend the legs and then add the supports between the legs using pocket holes. This measurement isn't very crucial just make sure they match up on both sides.

Your table is now assembled. Get some help moving it outside and make sure your legs are fully extended before sitting down and enjoying your new outdoor dining space.