Flushometer Lamp / Flush Lite
Everyone has been in the public restroom and used a toilet that has a flushometer type water valve at one time or the other. Having been in the plumbing trade for many years, one of my jobs was repairing or replacing this type valve. Most of these brass valves ended up in the scrap bucket waiting to be recycled at the scrap yard. I thought this would be another way to re-purpose this item.
Tools Needed
Tools, like money, are better to have more of than less. This list would be the minimum tools I used, but OK to have more.
pencil
tape measure
ruler - straight edge
screwdrivers - straight & phillips
razor knife
large groove joint pliers
file
sandpaper
saber saw w/wood & metal blades
drill
1 3/4" hole saw
3/8" drill bit
21/64" drill bit
1/8" x 27 pipe tap with holder
wood chisel
wire strippers
electrical tape
Parts Needed
1"x8"x14"long board (I used an old shelf)
Plexiglas or Lexan 1/4"x 1 1/4"x5" long
3/4"x3/4"x2 1/2" block of wood (cut from end of board)
keyless lamp socket
1/8"x4" socket nipple
push button switch (SPST maintained contact switch)
lamp cord
3 small wire nuts
Flushometer Valve
1/4" x 2 1/2" winged toggle bolt
self stick button pads
Disassemble Valve
Valve needs to be taken apart to remove the plastic and rubber components that made it work with water.
Using large pliers, unscrew large cap on top of valve, might require some effort to unscrew. Afterwards, remove the parts that are not brass.
Remove the smaller cap followed by the nut inside, then remove plastic/rubber parts inside.
The bottom section, when removed, has a rubber gasket that needs to remain to provide cushion to that section.
Prepare Parts
Cut the 1x8 to approx. 13" long and cut a piece of the scrap to 3/4x3/4x2 1/2" long. Mark the 1x8 at 6"from the end and 3 3/4" from the side to drill a hole. Using hole saw, place tape 1/4" from teeth for depth to drill into wood. After drilling, use wood chisel or screw driver to remove section of wood.
Sand top of wood, remove dust and stain or paint.
Self stick pads were added to bottom of wood.
More Parts
The 1/4" Plexiglas needs to be cut to 1 1/4" x 4 3/4" by using fine metal blade in saber saw. Drill 3/8" dia. hole 1 3/8" from the end for the switch.
The edges of the Plexiglas will need to be filed to fit inside the flushometer since it is round. Unscrew the handle to remove the plunger to test the plastic (the plastic needs to be on the back side of the brass nipples inside of the housing as per the foto)
After it is close, mount the switch to the Plexiglas and place inside housing to test the fit for the switch plunger and the handle plunger alignment.
Switch Alignment
After the switch is aligned inside the housing and contacts the handle plunger assemble. install the 3/4" wood block behind the plastic to prevent movement. You may need to wrap tape to adjust thickness.
Drill
Drill 21/64" hole at base for rubber grommet to be installed that electric cord goes thru.
Drill 21/64" hole in small cap, then using 1/8" pipe tap, thread cap and brass nut that already has hole in it.
Using 1/4" x 2 1/2" bolt , install winged toggle inside of base and secure to wood platform.
Socket
Using suitable wire (or cut 12" from lamp cord) install wire after stripped off insulation to light socket with lamp nipple attached. Make sure to wrap electrical tape around screws. Install socket, wiring and nipple thru threaded cap and threaded nut into housing.
Route wiring thru housing to top of unit. Connect one lead from cord to either wire from lamp socket with wire nut. Connect other cord lead to one wire from switch with wire nut. Then connect remaining two wires together, make sure to tape all wire nuts when done.
Install top cap on unit, light bulb and small shade.
Finish
Water and electric together