Floor Lamp From Copper Pipes

I got some old 22mm copper tubes from my neighbours cenral heating and thought that would be the ideal meterial to make a flour lamp for my wife. All Linkages and Brackets are 3D-Printed. I used Black PETG because the combination with the copper-color of the tubes and the lampshade looks amazing! The lampshade is from IKEA.

Tools

-3D-Printer

-PETG Filament

-Basic Handtools (File, Screwdriver etc.)

-Pipecutter or Metalsaw

-Sandpaper 220 Grid

-Battery Drill

-Drills for the Bolt and Cable Outlet (10mm, 12mm)

-22mm Forstnerbit for widening the holes for the pipes in the 3D-parts (depends on the tolerance of your 3D-printer)

Material

22 mm Copper Tube,

1 x 130cm Pipe 22mm 

1 x 55cm Pipe 22mm

2 x 45cm Pipe 22mm 

1 x M6 x 70mm Hex-Bolt

1 x M6 Nut

Lamp Socket with Cable and Switch - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0769XRYXL/

IKEA Brunsta Lampshade - https://www.ikea.com/at/de/p/brunsta-haengeleuchtenschirm-schwarz-10333065/

Pipecut or saw the 4 tubes to length, deburr the ends with a file/sandpaper and clean up the tubes with fine sandpaper. I used my lathe but handwork will also do:-)

Drill a 10 to 12mm hole through the 55 cm and 130 cm pipes. Holes are placed 120mm from the end of the pipes. They have to be big enough to have room for the M6 bolt and the cable in the lamp-hinge. A 12mm hole makes assembly easier (you can also use a file for that purpose). Round over the edges of the holes to make sure that the cable is save from sharp edges. If you are unsure how to do that in a proper way you can zip-tie the cable on the outside of the tubes in step 3 (In this case only 6,5mm through-holes in the 55 and 130cm tube are needed).

For centering the bore on the tube you can use the ruler trick (see photo).

For the Cable inlet drill a 10 mm hole in the 130cm Tube (only one side) from the other end. Place the hole approximately 40cm from the end and with about 90° offset to the throughhole on the other end (think on the placement of the lamp in relation to the wall outlet).

All parts are printed in black PETG with 0,3 mm layerheight. It will take some time:-) For better fitting of the tubes in the printed parts I used a 22mm Forstner-Bit in my battery Drill.

Files and gcode can also be downloaded on Prusa Printables

-Mount the Feet-Bracket and the Feet-Endcaps to the two 45cm Pipes

-Mount the Lamp-Hinge-Right and the Lamp-Hinge-Left to the 130cm and the 55cm Tube. Make shure that the 10-12 mm Bore is located correct

-Unmount the bulb socket

-Thread the cable through the cable-cap and thread it through the single hole (and the hole in Lamp-Hinge-Left) in the long pipe (130cm).

-Thread the cable through the hole in Lamp-Hinge-Right and the hole in the 55cm Pipe

-The end of the cable is now sticking out of the other end of the 55cm Pipe. Put the Lamp-Bracket-Tube on this end.

-Reassemble the bulb socket

-Assemble the bulb socket in the Lamp-Bracket-Ring

-Bring the cable in its position and be sure that there is enough cable in the 2 parts of the hinge. Mount the M6 Bolt and Nut through the 2 hinge parts. Before tightening be sure that the cable is free and there is no opportunity, that it can be squeezed or the insulation gets damaged!

If you are not feeling comfortable to mount the cable correct without causing danger (220V!) you can also mount it outside the tubes and fasten it with zip-ties or 3D printed cable clips (In this case only 6,5mm through-holes in the 55 and 130cm tube are needed)

-Position the 2 tubes to an angle you like, tighten the M6 Bolt and put on the Lamp-Knob

-Mount the Lamp-Bracket-Ring into the Lamp-Bracket-Tube (Cable has to be in the correct position)

-Assemble the whole upper part in the Feet-Bracket

Depending on the tolerances of the 3D-parts and holes it would be necessary to use glue for the Lamp-Bracket-Ring and the Cable-Cap.