Fixing an RV Sliding Door

Our RV has two "pocket" doors that slide on a top mounted roller that separates the bathroom from the back bedroom and the kitchen. For reasons unknown, one of the screws that holds the one roller latch to hooks to the top of the door pulled out. So we will need to remove the door, and then move the latch over slightly so the screw will have good wood to hold onto. (Sorry, I didn't get a picture of the damaged latch :( )

The type of connection that this door has uses a pin to lock onto the door latch. There are a few types of roller/latch designs - some have a bolt that goes through the roller - this is NOT that type. We have the type that the pin slides into the door latch - which is good because you do not need any tools to remove the door!

I did need a screw driver however, to screw the door latch into it's new location on the door where the wood was not damaged.

Above is the door when attached to the two rollers in the ceiling channel.

A view of the of the roller pin, and the connecting door latch is below

Above is the pin which has a roller on it, and slides on the ceiling mounted track. The door has two latches which attach to these pins, and allows the door to slide side to side.

Above is view from the top of the door of the latch. It is screwed into the top of the door. The pin from the roller drops into the large open circle, then slides into the channel - where the flat portion of the pin slides under the sides of the latch which holds the door. There is a piece of plastic that swings and locks onto the pin keeping it from sliding out during normal use of the door.

The first step to removing the door is to unlock the door latch from the roller pin.

Above is the latch locked in place (sorry, the lighting is not better). The plastic lock has a small "handle" that you need to either push to the left or the right - depending on which side of the door your standing on. In my case, one roller needed to be pushed to the right, and the other to the left.

In this case, the lock needed to be pushed to the left. Now you can see the roller pin after the lock is removed.

Now unlock the other door roller as well - and we can now work on unhooking the door.

With our door, there is about a 2" gap at the bottom, enough to slip my foot under, and lift slightly (similar to installing dry wall - if you have ever done that). This will remove the tension of the latch on the pin. Next step is to slide the pin and roller out of the latch on the door.

Above is a view after the pin was slid out of the latch. Note the flange at the bottom of the pin - this is what holds the door latch to the pin. Once the pressure is taken off the pin by lifting the door slightly, the pin usually slides out very easily.

Next repeat this step for the other door latch - and your door should now be free!

This is the opposite of taking it off.

Again, put your foot under the door, position the roller just to the side of the where the opening on the latch is located. adjust the height of the door with your foot until the flange of the pin can slide under the latch - then slide it all the way into the latch. Finally Slide the locking mechanism to lock the latch onto the pin.

Repeat for the other rolling pin.

The last step (which I did not get a picture of) - there may be a small channel attached to the wall at the floor - which will hold the door in place - to prevent flapping when the door is slid from side to side. When you position the door to attach the roller pins, make sure the door is sitting inside this channel.