Fix Your Snowboard Base

Tools Required:

Rag

Citrus based cleaner (note: I used Oneball Jay base cleaner)

Knife or chisel

Metal base scraper

Lighter

P-Tex candle

Edge sharpener

Iron Hot Wax (choose a wax appropriate for the local temperature conditions)

Plastic wax scraper

Scotch Brite pad



Time:

For major repairs: approximately 3 hours

For minor repairs: approximately 2 hours



Pre-note:

These instructions are only applicable to base gouges. When a gouge has gone through the base plastic into the core (known as a core-shot) it requires the use of epoxy due to the inability of P-Tex to bond with the board’s core. Do not ride on your board if this is that case, because water will get between the layers and freeze which will cause the layers to separate.

1. First, take your knife and cut away any base
plastic that is contaminated with rock fragments. Also, clean up any places where the plastic
seems to be dangling from the board using your knife. (See 1st picture with this step)

2. It is now necessary to remove all of the wax and dirt particles from the bottom of your board.  Apply the citrus cleaner liberally to the bottom of your board. (see pictures 2 and 3 from this step)

3. Vigorously scrub the bottom of the board to remove all of the old wax as well as the dirt and other impurities.  Warning: if you skip this step, the repair will not hold and you will have wasted your time.

4. Once you have thoroughly scrubbed the base of your board, allow the cleaner to dry before starting the next step.

1. Light the P-Tex candle in a space with good ventilation. The P-Tex will bind to the board better if the board is at least room temperature. It is helpful to put the scraper underneath the candle because the first P-Tex to melt off the candle will not be useful due to its high carbon content. You can tell when the P-Tex is ready because it will burn blue (see picture 2 from Step 2) and not yellow or orange (see picture 2 from Step 2).

Note: To get it to burn blue, get it close to the board’s surface

Warning: The bits of melted plastic that drip from the candle may still be burning. Be sure to keep the candle and the dripping plastic away from anything flammable.

2. Hold the candle as it burns directly over the gash or gouge that needs to be fixed. Move the Candle along the gash or gouge. (see picture 2 from Step 2)

3. Continue to fill in the gouges. It is not necessary to get every little scrape, the hot wax will fill in the gaps

Note: It may be necessary to light the candle multiple times

1. Once the P-Tex is cooled (10-15 minutes), scrape all of the excess P-Tex away from the board using the metal board scraper. The goal is to scrape to the point that the applied P-Tex is all gone, except for the portion that filled in the gash.

Warning: be careful not to scrape too much. The scraper is capable of removing base material

Note: The P-Tex shavings are easy to sweep of vacuum up, so do not worry about the mess too much

2. Use your finger to feel every repair. Once properly scraped there should be no raised bumps or surfaces on the base of the board. If there are some raised portions or bumps, scrape more thoroughly.

3. Use the rag to wipe the base clean of all P-Tex shavings and foreign particles.

1. Get the grinding tool flat on the side metal edge of the board. Only slide the tool in the direction indicated on the tool. Slide the whole length of the board multiple times until there are no more catches on the travel.

2. Now switch to the bottom metal edge. Again, make sure the grinding tool is flat onthe metal edge. Repeat step one for the bottom edge.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the other side of the board.

1. Set the Iron to a medium heat range.

Note: once used for waxing, the iron will no longer be useful for clothing.

2. Hold the iron above the base of the snowboard, and press the hot wax against the bottom of the iron. The wax will begin melting. Move the iron around so that the wax drips fairly evenly across the base of the board.

3. Once the block of wax is dripped all over the base, place the iron on the base of the board and smooth the drips into an even coating.

Warning: avoid prolonged heat exposure in one location, and high heat settings on the iron. This can damage the core of the board.

1. Once the wax has cooled (some suggest 8 hours of wait time, but I usually just wait until cold to the touch), start scraping the
wax with the plastic wax scraper. This can take a while, so be patient. Scrape in long motions to avoid creating an uneven surface. You actually want to scrape until you get to the plastic. The plastic (P-Tex) of the base is porous so when you hot wax it, you are just trying to get the wax into the pores. You then scrape all the wax off.  Once you have finished scraping the bottom should be smooth and shiny.

Warning: It is possible to scrape too much. Don’t scrape the bare plastic; it is better to leave a little residual wax, than mess up your newly repaired base.

2. Use the Scotch Brite to rough the wax by sliding it the entire length of the board. Do this as many times as necessary to cover the whole board. This creates groves that break the surface tension between the board and the snow.

This part should be easy. All of the scraped off wax and P-Tex should be dry and easy to sweep or vacuum up.