Entryway Storage Bench

by lanleo in Workshop > Woodworking

2831 Views, 89 Favorites, 0 Comments

Entryway Storage Bench

IMG_3517.jpg
IMG_3516.jpg
IMG_3515.jpg
IMG_3518.jpg
IMG_3521.jpg
IMG_3520.jpg
IMG_3519.jpg
Entry Bench (3).jpg

I built this storage bench to organize the entryway of our home. There are many similar benches that can be purchased, but they were all the wrong size or style for the space I had in mind - so I designed this one to fit perfectly. I paired it with storage boxes from the Container Store, and a custom cushion from Cushion Source.

I used this project to play with a couple different joinery methods (stopped dado, and mortise and loose tenon) either method is perfectly adequate for this build, and could be used as the only joinery method.

This project can be scaled up or down to meet your own needs, or built as designed.

Downloads

Supplies

Entry Bench.jpg
Entry Bench (1).jpg
Entry Bench (2).jpg

Wood

I milled and glued up all the panels for this project out of 4/4 white oak. If you do not have the capacity to do that in your shop, all pieces can be made from 3/4 inch S4S (surfaced on 4 sides) material that you can get from your local lumber yard, from online wood distributors, or even you big box store home center.

Alternatively, this project can be made from a single sheet of 4 foot by 8 foot 3/4 in plywood.

Top and Bottom:

42 in x 16 in (2)

Sides:

19.5 in x 16 in (2)

Dividers:

14 in x 15 5/8 in (2)

Bottom Stretchers

3 in x 42 in (2)

Top Stretcher

1 1/2 in x 42 in


Accessories


Cushion

Cushion Source

Boxes

Large Montauk Cube (Smoke)


Tools

Access to a fairly comprehensive set of tools (and knowledge of how to use them safely) is required for this project. At a minimum you will need:

Table Saw

Cross cut sled for table saw.

  • alternatively, a track saw could be used to cross cut panels.

Router and mortising jig.

  • alternatively a Festool Domino, or biscuit joiner could be used for these operations.

Sander

Reliable Square

Clamps


Techniques

Ripping and cross cutting panels accurately.

Reinforcing miters with loose tenons or other means (domino, biscuit).

Stopped Dados with a router.

Sanding and finishing.

Prepare Panels

Entry Bench (5).jpg
Entry Bench (4).jpg
Entry Bench (7).jpg
Entry Bench (8).jpg
Entry Bench (9).jpg
Glueing Up and Sizing Panels

Each panel is made of three boards.

Mill and Glue

Joint the edges for glue up. I do not have a jointer so I used the table saw with two six foot levels to extend my fence and create a long straight reference surface.

Plane each board to surface both sides and bring the final thickness to 3/4 in.

To help help the boards align and get flush seams I used my router to create 1/4 inch wide, 1/2 inch deep and 1 1/4 inch long mortises along the edge of each panel. These mortises are paired with tenons of the same dimension to aid with alignment during glue up*.

Glue up each panel.

Dimension

Finally, rip and cross cut to final dimension. I used the table saw and a cross cut sled.


*If my planer had a capacity of 16" or greater, I would have glued up the panels first and would not have used mortise and tenons for alignment. I could then surface the whole panel at once and any inconsistencies between boards would be flattened.

Stopped Dado for Dividers

Stopped dado with a trim router. #woodworking #wood #jig
IMG_3743.jpg
IMG_3742.jpg
IMG_3746.jpg
IMG_3731.jpg
IMG_3732.jpg
IMG_3734.jpg
IMG_3740.jpg
IMG_3735.jpg
IMG_3738.jpg
IMG_3744.jpg
IMG_3754.jpg
IMG_3751.jpg
IMG_3749.jpg
IMG_3763.jpg
IMG_3762.jpg
IMG_3766.jpg

Layout

Mark out where the 3/4 in Dados will be cut: 13.5" from each side, and terminating 7/8 in away from the front edge.

Jig and Pattern Bit

I constructed a jig out of 1/2 in mdf for a 1/2 in pattern bit to follow. The mdf guide extends from front to back of the panel, and has a cross member glued 90 degree to the guide. The other side of the guide is adjustable to set the width of the desired dado.

The jig is sandwiched on either side of the divider to set its spacing. The free guide is either clamped down or can be screwed down.

Place the jig on the panel and align to your layout lines. A strip of mdf is clamped between the two guides so that you stop at your mark 7/8 inches from the front edge. This isn't necessary, but I have accidentally routed past my line too many times!

Set the depth of the router bit to extend 1/4 inch past the 1/2 inch mdf guide.

Route the dado.

Shoulder on the Divider

A shoulder has to be cut into the divider that is the same depth as the dado. There are several ways to this, but I use the same router setup. If you do not change the depth of the bit, the router will cut a shoulder that is the exact depth of the dado.

Create a T-shaped jig that can be clapped to the divider, with 1/2 mdf on top for the router to sit on. Use a scrap piece of wood to keep the router from tearing out the back of the shoulder as it finishes the cut.

Test fit your pieces.

Mortise and Loose Tenon for Sides and Stretches

IMG_3814.jpg
IMG_3813.jpg
IMG_3796.jpg
IMG_3795.jpg
IMG_3812.jpg
IMG_3811.jpg
IMG_3817.jpg

Mortises

Layout where components will meet, and mark out where each mortise will go. Mark corresponding mortises on the edge of the mating pieces.

I used a router with 1/4 inch up cut bit and a homemade jig to route mortises that are 1/2 in deep and 1 1/4 in long. I can center my jig over each mortise and clamp in place.

Alternatively, you can use a plunge router along a straight edge. The straight edge is clamped so that the bit aligns where each mortise will go.

Tenons

Tenons are prepared on the table saw (1/4 in x 1 1/8 in x 1 in).

Assembly and Finishing

Final Assembly

Sanding

Before assembly, sand all interior surfaces. I sanded 120 grit, 150 grit and 180 grit. Exterior surfaces are sanded to 120, and then sanded to 150 and 180 after assembly as the assembly process and clamps can mar the surfaces.

The front stretcher is sanded both sides up to 180, as it cannot be sanded after assembly.


Dividers

Glue and clamp the center dividers into their dados on the top and bottom panels. Clamp and let dry.


Stretches

All stretchers are assembles with their loose tenons and clamped in place. Clamp and let dry.


Sides

Install one side with loose tenons, clamp across the length of the bench and let dry. Do the same to the other side. By doing one side at a time, you will have more time to work before the glue starts setting up.


Final Sanding and Finishing

After the glue has dried I inspected all surfaces and did any necessary touch up sanding where I may have marred the piece during glue up. This includes checking the insides of the cases.

I finished sanding all exterior surfaces, and gave all edges a slight round over with 180 grit sandpaper.

I vacuumed off all surfaces and wiped clean with mineral spirits. The mineral spirit wipe cleans the surface, will highlight any imperfections that need to be addressed.

I used Rubio Monocoat Natural for my finish. I like this finish on white oak because the finish is tinted, keeping the oak "natural" in color rather than imparting the amber or orange tones that other oil based finishes will.

Cushion

IMG_3816.jpg
IMG_3815.jpg

I order my cushion from Cushion Source after first ordering several sample swatches. I strongly recommend ordering swatches, as the color, texture, and sheen of fabrics is not always accurately captured in online pictures.

Standard Bench Cushion

Style: boxed edges

Shape: Rectangle

Front Corners: Squared

Back Corners: Squared

Width: 41.75"

Depth: 14.75"

Thickness 2"

Fabric: Sunbrella Fusion Piazza Lagoon

Fill: Standard Indoor (Medium Foam)

No Tufting

Hidden Zipper