'Enclo-table': a Multipurpose Table + Protecting 3D-printer From Dust and Fire.

Introduction

I just did not like the available enclosure designs in the market. Some had chains or leaky enclosures, Some could catch fire easily in a heated environment , some were heavy, Some had a price that can put a hole through the D.I.Y pockets. So I had to make something that will be fireproof, leakproof and cheap for my hobby funds.

I made the concept without any online structural references. Only applied few things I knew from the physics chapter of strength of materials. so forgive my mistakes/downsides and feel free to advise me or build upon the concept to show how it can be improved.

My desires were:

1. Protecting the printer from fire or accidental knocks. 2.Stop dust entering through micro gaps over the year and clog the fine grooves 3. Make from lightweight materials so i can relocate without much issue. (only 4.2kgs/9.26lbs, fits through the door) 4. Use the space above.

Little bit about 3D printing from my assistant chat-gpt:

3D printing has revolutionized DIY projects, prototyping, and small-scale manufacturing. However, to ensure optimal performance and longevity, a 3D printer requires a dust-free, stable environment. Dust and debris can clog extruders, affect print quality, and reduce the lifespan of the machine. Additionally, temperature fluctuations and external vibrations can impact the consistency of prints.

One of the best solutions is using an enclosure. An enclosure helps maintain a controlled environment by reducing dust accumulation, containing fumes (especially for materials like ABS), and minimizing noise. However, traditional enclosures can take up valuable space in a workshop, making them impractical for smaller work areas.

The enclosure takes some space, which cannot be utilized in a confined workshop or home. This is a problem when using store bought enclosure. In this project we use the top part as a table and an expandable shelf, which also makes it a secondary workstation.

Making a Multipurpose 3D Printer Enclosure

To solve this issue, I needed a space-efficient, multipurpose 3D printer enclosure that functions as more than just a protective case. This innovative build became:

1. A fireproof enclosure for safe 3D printing.
2. Door is sealed by soft EPDM tape when closed. hence it adds to the dustproof construction.
3. 'Cost-effective'. The enclosure is made with least amount of materials. It is resource friendly, very lightweight- can be picked up by a single person.(weight of aluminum enclosure = 4.2kg/9.26lbs.)
4. Strong structure to support more weight above.
5. A book reading nook for added utility.
6. A workstation table to maximize space usage.
7. A storage rack to keep tools and accessories organized.
8. The shelf is made from repurposed uPVC plates lying around in the house.

Materials and Design

This table top is constructed using repurposed hollow uPVC plates from a previous project. uPVC (unplasticized polyvinyl chloride) is an excellent choice due to its durability, resistance to moisture, and fire-retardant properties. Unlike wood, it does not warp over time, is lightweight, easy to make with and is easy to clean. Additionally, aluminum framing is used to make the enclosure, making it lightweight yet strong.

Previously, I built a larger version of this enclosure, but it took up too much space in my workshop. It would not go through any door if I needed to relocate! Silly me. This time, I have refined the design to be more compact while maintaining its multifunctional features. Added the table top also .The result is a practical, space-saving solution that seamlessly integrates into any workspace.

Stay tuned as we walk through the step-by-step process of building this versatile 3D printer enclosure that not only protects the printer but also enhances your workspace!

Tools:

Cutter/grinder with metal cutter blade (Works for uPVC too).

Saw .

Measuring Tape.

Screw driver.

Screws(3.6mm dia, length: 10mm,20mm,35mm).

Permanent markers.

Superglue: Quick setting strong quick adhesive.

Aluminum plate cutter.

Plier.

Drill Machine with 4mm dia. drill bit.

3d print Pen (https://www.amazon.com/MYNT3D-Super-3D-Pen-Compatible/dp/B081C946ZJ)

Materials:

Aluminum sheet (0.3mm thick).

Aluminum section: Channel (20mm channel height, 12 mm width). A square section or angle section will work too.

uPVC hollow plates (20mm thickness).

Aluminum paint (To paint the outside of the box).

Transparent plastic sheet for a window in the door.

Door hinges and locks: as available in your location.

Aluminum tape (https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Grade-Aluminum-Foil-Tape/dp/B09KNN5KLN)

EPDM tape (https://www.amazon.com/Aroilder-Rubber-Self-Adhesive-Weather-Stripping/dp/B0D41NPQBR)

The first step is to determine the right enclosure size to fit the 3D printer. My printer's maximum dimensions are 730mm (height) × 480mm (width) × 560mm (length).

To ensure a comfortable fit, I selected an enclosure size of 770mm × 520mm × 600mm. This provided adequate clearance for movement, ventilation, and any additional components. If your printer has different dimensions, adjust the enclosure size accordingly.

For materials:

1. Plastic panels can be used if you're only printing with PLA, as PLA printing does not require high heat. Ensure the temperature inside the enclosure stays below 50°C.
2. For PETG, ABS, and high-temperature filaments, it's best to use aluminum, or other heat-resistant materials to prevent warping and heat damage.

A stable structure is essential to prevent unwanted vibrations or movements during printing. The basic frame must be designed to support its own weight and resist external forces. Also a rigid frame will ensure there is no gap between the door and the frame.

In the corners, the beams are the weakest if not connected or welded. So its best to provide bracings or connect them to plates as shown below. The plates act as stiffeners. Hence it is very stable. But for the door portion, it may bend without any stiffener. In the initial tests, the door frame lacked stability. However, adding corner bracings significantly improved rigidity. You can see the comparison in the attached images.

For additional verification, Finite Element Method (FEM) analysis can be used to assess your structural performance under load. If you are not planning to make a super heavy shelf atop your enclosure, you can omit this F.E.M step and design similar to what is shown below. It is very strong and can handle loads upto 20kg or above .

Once the enclosure geometry is finalized, the next step is selecting the right materials:

1. Enclosure skin: Use aluminum plates (recommended thickness: 0.3mm) for durability and fire resistance. Don't use any fire catching material like Plastic/ MDF/ or similar for the main body.
2. Frame members: Opt for profiles with flat sides to ensure better contact and easier assembly.
3. Strongest/ costliest: (Square/rectangular profile)
4. Mid-range strength: (Channel profile)
5. Most affordable option: (Angle profile)

Now, mark and cut all the required panels for the enclosure with a Plate cutter:

1. Top
2. Back
3. Left
4. Right
5. Bottom
6. Front door

To avoid mistakes, use a notepad/sketch to label each piece before cutting. Misaligned or incorrectly sized panels can cause assembly issues.

Cut the members with the grinder with steel cutting blade. Be very careful from accidents while using this tool. As you may loose a finger or worse.

Frame Assembly Considerations:

1. Columns should run continuously from top to bottom for maximum stability.
2. Beams should be cut to fit between columns to simplify assembly and improve load distribution.

To assemble the enclosure:

1. Drill holes in the aluminum plates and frame members at proper intervals.
2. Use screws and nuts to securely fasten all parts together.
3. Maintain a 150-200mm hole-to-hole distance for even load distribution.

This method ensures a rigid and long-lasting enclosure capable of supporting the 3D printer while functioning as a workstation.

Start by completing one corner to establish a stable base.

Then, assemble the full portal box (frame structure) with the door frame.

In the door frame, stick an epdm tape all around the front edges so that it acts as a tight seal when the door is closed.

Make the door. If you want a small window, cut a square panel on the door as shown. In my case i have made a 180mmx180mm cut-out.

Finally, attach the gate and top plate to complete the enclosure.

To keep the door tightly closed, add two hooks at top and bottom of the door edge as shown in the last picture. For a full view, see the image at "step-12 final" section.

(Remember that the gate bottom needs some clearance (0.5inch) from the ground to open and close freely.

If you need any clarification, ask me in the comments.

Cut the extruding part of any screw end with the griding machine. Shown in 'Screw cutting.mp4'.

Seal all edges with sealing aluminum tape to enhance durability and airflow control.

Then Paint the box with aluminum paint. Let the paint dry for at least 8 hours.

While the paint is getting dry, let us make a window frame.

I have attached the .Stl of a window frame i made. You can Use any material to do this frame. The .stl model is upside down. So rotate it before slicing to print.

Print the frame.

Fit a 150mm x 170mm transparent sheet and fit it inside the frame. Use a 3d printing pen to lay some hot filament and stick the sheet to the frame. Fix the frame on the window with aluminum tape. If you want to fit it by screws go ahead but seal it so it is dust proof,

For the rack, use lightweight yet durable materials. Plywood can be too heavy, making the structure bulky. Instead, uPVC sheets are ideal—they offer high strength, are lightweight, moisture-resistant, and easy to clean, making them perfect for this application.

Cut the uPVC sheet to size for the tabletop.

Prepare four small uPVC pieces and glue them at the corners—this will slightly raise the tabletop, ensuring the door moves freely without obstruction.

Position the four corner pieces directly on top of the vertical columns, not on the beams, for better stability.

Cut the vertical shelf sides and join them using strong adhesive.

Once the glue dries completely, carefully place the assembled rack over the enclosure to finalize the structure. See the image below for the final view.

Place the 3D printer inside the enclosure.

While printing in PLA, always keep the door open. Else the PLA can melt and deform the filament. The enclosure is to be closed when not in used.

Place whatever you want to store on the top.

I did this project with uPVC materials left from a past project. It has a small place for books, top shelf for instruments and the table top for small project workstation.

I thoroughly enjoyed working on this enclosure project. Not only does it protect my 3D printer from dust, but it also transforms the occupied space into a functional workstation. This dual-purpose design brings both efficiency and satisfaction, making it a truly worthwhile build.

I super liked this enclosure. Hope you liked it too. Give a 'Favorite' to support my cause.

Thank you for reading!