Embroidered Love Letter + Free Pattern

When was the last time you sent a letter?

How about an embroidered Love Letter?

In this instructable, I’ll show you how to stitch an Embroidered Love Letter and invite you to create together something really special for your loved ones!

I can't tell you how excited I am about this project! It’s fun, really easy to stitch, and the gorgeous finish card will melt your loved one's heart.

Let’s go through what you can expect from this instructable.

Some of the things we’ll explore during the Embroidered Love Letter project include going through the materials needed, stitching the project with simple stitches, methods of constructing and finishing the card.

• Heart embroidery pattern​
• Linen or linen blend fabric
• Embroidery hoop 6 inch/15 cm - I'm using the Elbesee brand
• Tracing pen – HB Pencil, Frixion Erasable Pen, or Water-Soluble Pen
• Embroidery needle - size 5 or 7
• Card making blanks - size 12.5 x 12.5cm
• Embroidery threads - I used the DMC brand
• Sharp embroidery scissors - for cutting the thread
• Zig-Zag scissors - for preventing the fabric from fraying
• Double-sided tape or Craft glue - for construction
• Iron - to remove any fabric creases
• Led light pad - Lightbox for tracing the pattern onto the fabric

The design we'll be stitching together today uses basic embroidery stitches and a simple color palette.

Download the Love Letter Tracing Pattern.pdf attached.

Since the finished product is pretty small, we'll be cutting out the fabric only after we finish stitching the pattern.

The central part - the heart design will be stitched, while the dashed lines will be used as a guideline to cut out the fabric when the stitching is done.

The pattern is full size, created to fit a card size 12.5 x 12.5cm.

Since most cards are more or less in the same size range, the pattern will fit perfectly even if you decide to use a different card format than I used for this lesson.

When printing the JPG pattern on A4 paper, make sure to have the Fill Entire Paper option selected. That's all, you don't have to change anything else!

Use the image above as a reference. This is how my printer settings look.

Fabrics

For this project, I used a linen-blend fabric, because the color and texture of the fabric are matching the card's texture. I really liked how they blended together. Linen, Cotton Muslin or Calico would also work just fine for this project.

Embroidery Hoop

Hoop wise, any type or size would work, of course! For this project ideally, you'd want to use a hoop slightly larger than the final fabric size.

The reason for that is those nasty marks the hoop can sometimes leave on the fabric (even if you're binding your hoop). You can remove them by ironing the fabric when done, but why add extra work when we can completely avoid it.

Double-sided tape vs Craft Glue

I know some of you lovelies are masters in card making! I'd love to hear your tips on constructing a card.

For this project, I chose the double-sided tape purely because I thought it works better. Works a bit like fusing together the fabric with the card (even behind the embroidered parts), leaving no empty spaces between the fabric and the card.

I used a brand called YYXLIFE Double-Sided Carpet Tape, and please don't laugh! I know how it sounds, but trust me, this tape is amazing!

It's like an almost invisible double-sided film, with the strongest adhesive on the market. I am using it for all my mounting, embroideries or canvases or anything that needs mounting really. It's really thin, undetectable, and it doesn't damage the fabric.

If you decide to use craft glue instead, just make sure to use it on the margins only, to avoid messing up the fabric and the embroidery.

Color Palette

For this project, I used the DMC brand, but feel free to use your favorite brand.

• DMC 817 (Coral Red Very Dark)
• DMC 986 (Forest Green Very Dark)
• DMC 310 (Black)

Preparing the Fabric

Before tracing the pattern, I'd normally wash and iron it to remove any creases, without using the steam function.

Also, we're not cutting the fabric at the final size at this point, we'll get to that only after the stitching is done.

Another thing I usually do, even though the fabric is not at the final size just yet, is give it another trim on the margins with the pinking shear. At this point is not really necessary, it's just a personal choice. I always feel like the fraying is getting in my stitching way.

By the way, the pinking shears (zig-zag scissors) are great not just for preventing your fabric from fraying, but they're really useful for cutting curves as they have a similar effect to clipping your seam allowance to make it lie flat.

Not the case for our project, just something to remember for future projects.

My favorite method for tracing patterns onto fabric is using a Lightbox when the material allows it. I find this as the fastest manual tracing method. I am using the Stone TH Led Light Pad for tracing all my patterns onto light fabrics, does the job and it's super cheap!

In this case, the colour and thickness of the fabric I'm using are allowing me to use this tracing method.

That wouldn't be the case if I'd be using a heavier fabric or a much darker colour (like black). The Lightbox tracing method would be trickier in that case. So a few things to consider before tracing a pattern are the thickness and colour of the fabric you'll be using.

To transfer the Heart pattern manually using a Lightbox, you can use this simple method:

• Print your pattern
• Place the printed pattern on the Lightbox and secure it with masking tape (the office clear tape should work just fine)
• With the right side of the fabric facing you, centre the fabric over the printed pattern and tape in place again
• Tun on the Lightbox
• Using the erasable or water-soluble fabric pen, trace over the pattern's lines.

From the image above you might ask why haven't I taped anything? I guess it's just a bad habit.

Due to the pattern's small size, I felt confident enough not to. But you go ahead and tape everything in place. Better be safe, than sorry! Just remember for more complex patterns, taping is a must!

What if I don't have access to a Printer, nor to a Lightbox?

Nothing to worry about! There's a solution for everything!

Trace the embroidery design onto tracing paper or baking paper with a black pen. Tape the tracing to a window.

With the right side of the fabric facing you, centre the fabric over the tracing paper and tape in place again. Using the erasable or water-soluble fabric pen, trace over the pattern's lines. Remove the fabric and tracing.

You're done!

As I mentioned in the beginning, this pattern is really easy to stitch, using just a few basic stitches.

Before we start, I want to mention a few important things to remember.

This is the pattern where you'll want to be careful with the back of your stitching. Why? Because everything will show on the front once we construct the card.

Every little bump, knot, or thread carried away from one side to another, they will all show on the front of our beautiful card!

Another thing to consider is the number of strands we'll be using.

The stranded cotton embroidery thread is made up of six strands. We will be stitching this project using just two and four strands.

As a general rule when stitching the pattern:

• All Red elements were stitched using 4 strands of thread.
• All French Knots (Red and Green) were stitched using 4 strands of thread.
• All Black and Green elements were stitched using 2 strands of thread.

Separating the Thread

In order to easily separate your thread, pull out and cut about 30-40cm length of thread from the skein, more or less the distance between your fingers and your elbow.

Separate two strands.

Pull the separated strands while holding firmly the rest.

Thread your needle (size 5 or 7).

Stems - Outline Stitch

I chose to start with the stems because they create a nice frame for the entire work. We'll be using only two strands of DMC 310 (Black).

For stitching the Stems you can use the Outline Stitch or the Stem Stitch.

They're really the same stitch, the only difference between them is the position of the working thread in relationship with the line you're trying to stitch.

The Outline Stitch is a bit more twisted and you can't really tell the individual stitches, while the Stem Stitch creates a more ropey effect.

The Outline Stitch - the working thread (the loop) will always be above the line.

The Stem Stitch - the working thread (the loop) will always be under the line.

Feel free to use which one suits you better, they both create a nice effect.

As you notice in the image above, I used the Outline Stitch, my loop was always on top of the line.

Start by going forward a stitch length, don't pull through the entire thread.

While holding the loop on the surface with one hand, return up again about halfway down the line. Pull through, with the thread above the needle, then go forward another stitch length again and repeat the same steps.

A thing to consider, regardless of the stitch you'll be using (Outline or Stem), is to keep the length of your stitches consistent, for a nice and tidy outcome.

Leaves - Straight Stitch

For the leaves, I only used simple straight stitches with two strands of DMC 986 (Forest Green Very Dark).

This method of stitching leaves looks a bit like the Satin Stitch, but it's not really Satin Stitch. I'm not even sure if it has a name, I just called them Straight Stitches, because this is what they really are.

Just remember to always start (bring your thread up) from the outside of the shape you're trying to fill. Then come back down again and again in the almost same spot at the base of the leave.

TIP: This method works really well for small shapes, like leaves, buds, or flowers.

Flowers - Straight Stitch

We'll be stitching the big flowers using four strands of DMC 817 (Coral Red Very Dark), applying the same technique as the leaves.

Start from the outside, coming towards the center, using Straight Stitch.

I stitched each individual petal at a time.

Continue filling the rest of the big flowers, using the same technique.

Don't forget for all Red shapes we are using four strands of thread!

Star Shaped Flowers - Lazy Daisy

Since you already threaded your needle with four strands of DMC 817 (Coral Red Very Dark), let's start stitching the star-shaped flowers.

For these small shapes, we'll be using the Lazy Daisy stitch. This is a great stitch for small flowers and leaves.

Using the diagram below and the pattern you downloaded, bring your needle up where you want your first petal to sit. Then insert the needle down in the same place you came up from (without pulling down your thread).

Hold the loop on the surface with one hand and come up again where you want to anchor the loop (C). Make a tiny holding stitch over the loop you created.

Red and Green Buds - French Knot

It's time for some French Knots!

Love them or hate them, but they sure look good!

Many stitchers struggle with the French Knot stitch, but let me tell you something. Once you get the hang of it, you'll end up loving this little stitch. You might even create entire works based on the French Knot stitch.

Let's see how to stitch the perfect French Knot!

Start by bringing your needle up, where you want to place your knot.

Wrap the thread around the needle twice (clockwise).

Hold the thread to maintain the tension, and insert the needle back in the same place you just came up. Now here comes the problem most people complain about.

When you go back in the same hole, sometimes the knot might pull through the fabric and that's your French Knot gone. Frustrating, I know!

TIP: The little trick I found helpful is when you go back down, don't insert the needle in the exact same spot you came up, instead insert the needle slightly in front of the thread (just slightly!).

This way your French Knot will hold, there's no way it'll pull through the fabric.

Find more tips on best practices in my articles about Hand Embroidery Stitches.

If you have visible tracing marks that remained uncovered by the embroidery, rinse the embroidered fabric under cold running water. This should remove all traces of the fabric marker.

Please note that this will work only if you used a washable pen when tracing the pattern onto your fabric.

Leave it to dry and give it an iron to remove all creases.

TIP: When ironing, avoid the embroidered parts, otherwise those beautiful French Knots might be destroyed.

If you remember in the beginning, we said we'll be cutting out the fabric only after the embroidery is done.

Use the pattern you have downloaded as a size guide for cutting out your fabric.

You can trace the cutting guidelines from the downloaded pattern using a pencil, then use sharp tailor scissors to cut it out.

• Your cut out embroidered fabric size should be 11.5 x 11.5cm (slightly smaller than the card size you are using)
• The card I used is 12 x 12cm

I happened to have a quilting ruler the exact same size, yayyy!

For cutting out the embroidered fabric I used a rotary cutter for fabric. You can find these in any craft store, but scissors and tracing the cutting lines with a pen/pencil will do just fine.​

Quick summary:

• Use the pattern you have downloaded to trace the cutting guidelines
• Cut out the embroidered fabric using good tailor scissors or rotary cutter
• Trim the margins using pinking scissors to prevent fraying (*optional)

The cards I'm using came in a pack of 10. If you're using the same cards as I did, we'll have to sacrifice one.

Open out a new card. Use a knife cutter to slice it in half.

On the full half-side of the cut card, run two strips of double-sided tape. If you're using the same double-sided tape as I did, it should cover more or less the entire surface.

Place the embroidered fabric over the taped half-card, making sure it's centered.

TIP: If you're using craft glue, run a fine line of craft glue just around the margins. Make sure the embroidery will not sit on top of the glue.

I haven't tested what might happen, but embroidery and glue together just don't sit right with me.

At this point, we'll be attaching this cut-out panel to the final card.

Take out a brand new card, and apply double-sided tape (or glue) along each inner side of the cutout panel. I only used it on the left and right sides and it was fine, but just to be extra secure you can tape along each side (top and bottom too).

If you're using craft glue, run a fine line of glue along each side of the inner cutout panel.

Bring the embroidered panel and place it on top of the taped side of the front panel, making sure the embroidery is oriented correctly. Press firmly.

If you're using craft glue, you can add a book on top of them and leave it until dry.

​Note: Another option for creating this project would be to use a blank three-fold card. I actually think that would be even easier, as you'd be skipping the cutting in half a new card.

Regardless of the type of card, you'll be using, the process is more or less the same.

This is what my final card looks like. Pair it with a nice envelope and that's your Embroidered Love Letter ready to bring some smiles (or tears)!

My mum happy cried when she received hers, bless her!

This was all, lovely. I really hope you enjoyed stitching this project.

Feel free to use your own methods or other materials than I did. Get creative and enjoy the process.

I'm sure whoever will receive your card will absolutely love it!